皮肤为何偏爱微酸环境?武大姚镜团队联合雅诗兰黛,揭秘刷酸背后的底层机制

很多人都知道,健康皮肤表面通常是“微酸性”的。为什么皮肤要偏酸一点?这种“酸”,到底只是表面现象,还是皮肤自己在工作的关键信号?刷酸、果酸、水杨酸、酸类精华,为什么有的人越刷越细腻,有的人却越刷越敏感?
武汉大学生命科学学院姚镜教授团队联合国际知名化妆品集团雅诗兰黛(Estée Lauder),在国际顶级期刊《美国国家科学院院刊》(PNAS)发表重要研究成果。该研究首次揭示,名为 PACC1 的质子激活氯离子通道是皮肤角质层中的关键“酸碱感受器”,能够将外界酸性刺激转化为皮肤细胞内部的“脱屑”信号。此项发现不仅深化了人们对皮肤屏障调控机制的认识,也为未来开发更精准、更温和的护肤策略提供了全新的理论依据和作用靶点。
皮肤表面的酸性环境,不只是“环境条件”,还可能是在给角质细胞发送“该脱落了”的信号。
一、皮肤表面的“酸”,可能是在指挥角质更新
在角质形成细胞里,PACC1像一个“酸度感应器”。当皮肤外部环境变酸时,它会被激活,随后启动一连串信号通路,促进KLK5、KLK7这类与角质脱落有关的蛋白增加,进一步帮助连接老废角质的结构被分解,最终推动角质有序脱落。也就是说,酸性环境不是简单把角质“泡松了”,而是可能通过细胞自身的生物学机制,主动调动皮肤完成更新
二、皮肤更新,原来离不开“酸膜”
我们的皮肤最外层叫角质层。它不是一层死板的壳,而是一个一直在更新的动态结构。新的角质细胞从下往上生长,老的角质细胞再一点点脱落。这个过程如果太慢,皮肤就会粗糙、暗沉、闭口增多;如果太快,屏障又可能受损,出现泛红、刺痛、起皮。
研究中提到,角质层本身存在精细的pH梯度,越靠近皮肤表面越酸,而这种酸性环境对于屏障稳态和正常脱屑都非常重要。研究者进一步指出,KLK蛋白参与角质脱落过程,而当皮肤pH变化异常时,这种平衡也会被打破,甚至和特应性皮炎、银屑病等问题有关。因此,皮肤表面的微酸环境,而是皮肤正常代谢秩序的一部分。
三、酸到底是怎么被皮肤识别的?
研究发现,在人角质形成细胞和HaCaT细胞中,PACC1表达丰富;当研究人员把PACC1敲低、敲除,或者用抑制剂去阻断它时,酸原本带来的KLK5/7升高效应明显减弱,同时与角质连接有关的桥粒蛋白DSG1、DSC1的变化也被逆转。换句话说,如果没有这个“酸感应器”,皮肤细胞就很难把“外面变酸了”这件事转化成后续的脱屑程序。
研究还进一步说明,这个过程和JNK/AP-1通路有关。也就是说,酸刺激不是停留在表面,而是通过PACC1一路把信息传进细胞内部,最后影响相关基因表达。
四、总结
1.皮肤不是越酸越好,而是“适度微酸”更重要
过度使用高浓度酸类、频繁叠加去角质产品,短期可能觉得皮肤更光滑,但长期很可能打乱皮肤原本的脱屑节律,造成屏障受损、刺痛泛红,甚至反复爆痘。
2.健康皮肤管理,重点是“维持秩序”
真正好的护肤,不只是把老废角质去掉,而是让皮肤维持有节奏的更新。
从这个角度看,护肤里很多看似基础的动作,其实都在帮皮肤维持这个秩序:
  • 选择温和清洁,避免过度脱脂;
  • 使用pH相对友好的洁面和护肤品;
  • 刷酸时控制频率,不要把“有效”变成“过量”;
  • 去角质后及时补水、修护、保湿,给屏障恢复时间;
  • 一旦出现连续刺痛、脱皮、泛红,就先停酸、修护,而不是加码。
3.皮肤表面的微酸环境,可能不仅仅是在“保护皮肤”,还在“指挥皮肤更新”。PACC1像一个负责听懂“酸信号”的开关,把外界酸度变化转成细胞内部的更新指令,最终帮助老废角质有序脱落。

研究发现,在人角质形成细胞和HaCaT细胞中,PACC1表达丰富;当研究人员把PACC1敲低、敲除,或者用抑制剂去阻断它时,酸原本带来的KLK5/7升高效应明显减弱,同时与角质连接有关的桥粒蛋白DSG1、DSC1的变化也被逆转。换句话说,如果没有这个“酸感应器”,皮肤细胞就很难把“外面变酸了”这件事转化成后续的脱屑程序。
研究还进一步说明,这个过程和JNK/AP-1通路有关。也就是说,酸刺激不是停留在表面,而是通过PACC1一路把信息传进细胞内部,最后影响相关基因表达。

Product Data Sheet PuriActives®7-DHC Elevate the Skin’s Natural Defense

Intended Use

PuriActives®7-DHC is a high-purity active ingredient designed for advanced cosmetic and personal care formulations. As the natural precursor to vitamin D3, this innovative ingredient harnesses the skin’s inherent photoprotective mechanisms to enhance barrier function and support overall skin health. The product is specifically developed for premium skincare applications where scientifically-backed efficacy and exceptional quality are paramount.

7-Dehydrocholesterol is naturally present in human skin and plays a crucial role in the photoproduction of vitamin D3 upon exposure to UVB radiation. By supplementing the skin’s natural reservoir of this essential sterol, PuriActives®7-DHC helps optimize the skin’s response to environmental stressors while supporting its natural regenerative processes.

Benefits at a Glance

  • Enhances skin barrier function and integrity through natural lipid replenishment
  • Supports the skin’s natural photoprotective mechanisms and UV defense response
  • Promotes skin hydration and moisture retention for improved skin comfort
  • Precursor to vitamin D3, supporting skin’s natural vitamin D synthesis pathway
  • High purity grade suitable for premium cosmetic formulations
  • Compatible with a wide range of cosmetic formulations and delivery systems

INCI (PCPC Name)

Properties

Physical and Chemical Properties

  • Crystalline solid at room temperature with characteristic sterol structure
  • Lipophilic nature enables excellent skin penetration and bioavailability
  • Stable under recommended storage conditions with proper protection from light
  • Compatible with oil-based and emulsion formulations

Applications

PuriActives®7-DHC is suitable for a wide range of cosmetic and personal care applications:

  • Premium anti-aging creams and serums targeting skin barrier enhancement
  • Photoprotection and after-sun care products supporting natural skin defense
  • Moisturizing formulations for dry and compromised skin conditions
  • Barrier repair creams and sensitive skin formulations
  • Premium body lotions and skin conditioning products
  • Lip care products and protective balms

Recommended Usage Concentration

The optimal concentration depends on the specific formulation type, desired efficacy, and target consumer needs. We recommend conducting compatibility and stability testing for each specific formulation. For new product development, starting with 0.5% is suggested for most applications.

Formulation Guidelines

PuriActives®7-DHC should be incorporated into the oil phase of emulsions during the manufacturing process. The ingredient dissolves readily in warm oils (60-80°C) and can be added to the oil phase before emulsification. For anhydrous formulations, dissolve the ingredient in the oil base with gentle heating. Avoid prolonged exposure to high temperatures and protect from light during processing.

Handling Precautions

  • Avoid formation of dust during handling; use appropriate dust control measures
  • Use in well-ventilated areas or under local exhaust ventilation
  • Wear appropriate personal protective equipment (gloves, safety glasses)
  • Avoid contact with eyes, skin, and clothing; wash thoroughly after handling
  • Do not eat, drink, or smoke while handling this product

Storage and Handling

Store in original containers in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area. Protect from light and moisture. Keep away from heat sources and open flames. Ensure containers are properly sealed after each use to maintain product quality and prevent contamination.

Scientific Findings

7-Dehydrocholesterol is a naturally occurring sterol that serves as the immediate precursor to vitamin D3 (cholecalciferol) in the human body. Scientific research has demonstrated several key findings regarding its role in skin health and function:

  • 7-Dehydrocholesterol is present in the epidermis and is converted to previtamin D3 upon exposure to UVB radiation (290-320 nm), which then thermally isomerizes to vitamin D3
  • As a component of the skin’s lipid matrix, it contributes to the structural integrity and barrier function of the stratum corneum
  • Studies suggest that topical application of 7-dehydrocholesterol may help support the skin’s natural photoprotective response mechanisms
  • The molecule’s lipophilic nature enables effective penetration through the stratum corneum, supporting its bioavailability in skin tissues
  • Research indicates potential benefits for skin barrier enhancement and moisture retention through lipid replenishment

Specifications

Safety Information

PuriActives®7-DHC is not classified as hazardous according to Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 (CLP). The substance has a favorable safety profile based on available toxicological dataand its natural occurrence in human skin. However, standard laboratory and manufacturing safety practices should be followed when handling this product.

For detailed safety information, please refer to the Safety Data Sheet (SDS) available upon request. The product is intended for cosmetic use only and should not be used in pharmaceutical or food applications without appropriate regulatory approval.

Regulatory Status

Packaging

Contact Information

DISCLAIMER

The information provided in this Product Data Sheet is based on our present knowledge and experience. It is intended to provide general guidance on the use of our product and does not constitute a warranty or guarantee of any specific results. Users should conduct their own tests to determine the suitability of the product for their intended applications. PuriPharm Co. Ltd. assumes no liability for any results obtained through the use of this product. The information contained herein is subject to change without notice. For the most current information, please contact our technical service department.

PuriPharm Co. Ltd. | PuriActives®7-DHC | February 2026

国产玻色因原料–璞瑞因

玻色因是一种具有抗衰老功效的木糖衍生物。
INCI:羟丙基四氢吡喃三醇,Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol。
浦瑞生物医药公司商品名:璞瑞因,Puri-Xylane。
璞瑞因可诱导浅表皮层中GAGs黏多糖和PG蛋白多糖的生物合成,GAGs和PG缺失会导致皮肤含水量下降,防御能力降低;有效促进表皮-真皮紧密连接,将真皮层更好的固定,肌肤更强韧,有弹性;长期使用,有效改善脸颈部皱纹、细纹,促进受损组织再生。

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