PuriActives® BioCalmin

PuriActives® BioCalmin

Precision Molecular Soothing for Sensitive Skin & Scalp

PURIPHARM CO. LTD. — COSMETIC ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

PuriActives® BioCalmin

Precision Molecular Soothing for Sensitive Skin & Scalp

INCI: Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic AcidScientific name: Dihydroavenanthramide D (DHAvD), nature-inspired synthetic avenanthramide

Nature-Inspired Chemistry · Fast Comfort · Multi-Pathway Defense

THE CHALLENGE — SKIN BIOLOGY

When Skin Overreacts, Multiple Signals Converge

COMMON MANIFESTATIONS:Itching、Redness、Burning、Stinging、Tightness、Dryness、Irritation、Scalp discomfort

POTENTIAL TRIGGERS:SurfactantsEnvironmental stress、Dry skin、Shaving、Hair coloring、Bleaching、Exfoliating acid、Retinoids、Frequent cleansing、Compromised skin barrier

THE SIGNALING CASCADE — SCHEMATIC

External Stress

↓

Sensory Nerve Activation · Substance P

↓

Mast Cell Activation

↓

Histamine + Inflammatory Mediators

↓

Itch · Redness · Discomfort

One trigger can set off the full neurogenic irritation chain — effective soothing starts upstream.

THE MOLECULE

Nature-Inspired Precision Chemistry

Dihydroavenanthramide D (DHAvD) | MW ≈ 285.3 Da | logP ≈ 3.34

Item Information
INCI NAME Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
SCIENTIFIC NAME Dihydroavenanthramide D (DHAvD)
INGREDIENT FAMILY Nature-inspired synthetic avenanthramide

A synthetic analogue nature-inspired by oat avenanthramides — the phenolic anthranilic acid amides behind the protective chemistry of oats — engineered as a highly defined molecular active with consistent, reproducible performance.

Key actions

Anti-itchAnti-rednessAnti-histamine pathway

Product attributes

AntioxidantEffective at low concentrationsSkin & scalp soothing

Molecular properties per published pharmaceutical-formulation research on DHAvD. Highly defined molecular identity — not an oat extract. Activity at low concentrations, across both skin and scalp applications.

DESIGN LOGIC

From Oat Defense Chemistry to Targeted Cosmetic Soothing

Avenanthramides are anthranilic acid amides known for biological activities relevant to skin comfort. PuriActives® BioCalmin translates that biology into one defined, reproducible molecule.

Oat Avenanthramide Biology

↓

Structure–Activity Understanding

↓

Dihydroavenanthramide D

↓

Consistent Molecular Soothing Performance

MOLECULAR ADVANTAGES

Controlled molecular identityReproducible quality, batch after batchStrong activity at ppm-level concentrations

MULTIFUNCTIONAL ADVANTAGES

Multifunctional soothing profileAntioxidant capacityBroad formulation potential

Nature-Inspired. Molecularly Defined.The premium positioning — beyond “naturalness”: defined, reproducible, potent.

MECHANISM

One Molecule. Four Levels of Skin Comfort.

NET RESULT: Less Itch · Less Redness · Less Irritation · More Comfort

01 Substance P / Mast Cell Pathway

Helps inhibit Substance P-induced histamine release from mast cells.

02 Histamine-Related Itch & Redness

Helps reduce downstream itch and erythema responses in challenged skin.

03 Inflammatory Signaling

Published mechanistic research supports modulation of NF-κB-related inflammatory signaling.

04 Oxidative Stress

Strong radical-scavenging activity helps limit the oxidative amplification of irritation.

MECHANISM IN FOCUS

Interrupting the Substance P–Mast Cell–Histamine Axis

Sensory Nerve

↓

Substance P

↓

Mast Cell

↓

Histamine

↓

Itch · Redness

PuriActives® BioCalmin inhibits Substance P-induced histamine release.

Substance P released from sensory nerves stimulates mast cells and promotes histamine release, driving itching, redness and neurogenic skin discomfort. Published studies show that synthetic avenanthramides including Dihydroavenanthramide D inhibit Substance P-induced histamine release from mast cells; the original patent literature describes anthranilic acid amides for precisely this purpose.

Target the Signal Before It Becomes Visible Discomfort.

Evidence type: in vitro mast-cell assay; patent literature.

EVIDENCE — IN VITRO

Strong Activity at ppm-Level Concentrations

−81%histamine net release at 500 ppm DHAvD vs. stimulated control

Published in-vitro mast-cell results show progressive, dose-dependent suppression of histamine net release as DHAvD concentration rises from 0.5 to 500 ppm — potent activity well below typical use levels.

Histamine net release relative to Substance P-stimulated control (= 100%). Chart redrawn from published data.Source: Schmaus G, Herrmann M, Joppe H, Lange S, Koch O, Pillai R, Röding J. Dihydroavenanthramide D for Anti-irritant and Anti-itch. Cosmetics & Toiletries. 2007;122(11):55–66.

EVIDENCE — HUMAN IN VIVO

From Mast Cells to Human Skin

HUMAN IN VIVO — HISTAMINE CHALLENGE STUDY DESIGN
Method Double-blind, placebo controlled
Challenge Histamine challenge (skin-prick model)
Subjects ≈ 10 subjects per study
Formulations O/W emulsions with 500 ppm synthetic avenanthramides
Controls Placebo & untreated controls
Assessment Itch and redness scoring up to 180 minutes

Itch Reduction

significantly lower vs placebo — p < 0.05

Redness Reduction

significantly lower vs placebo — p < 0.05

Schematic representation of the published outcome — synthetic avenanthramides including Dihydroavenanthramide D significantly reduced histamine-induced itch and redness versus placebo and untreated skin; bar heights are illustrative, not original quantitative values. Source: Schmaus G, et al. Cosmetics & Toiletries. 2007;122(11):55–66.

Visible Redness Down. Perceived Itch Down.

POTENCY

Powerful Soothing Does Not Require High Loading

500 ppm

= 0.05% active

The concentration that demonstrated meaningful anti-itch and anti-redness activity in the published human histamine-challenge model.

High biological potency

Meaningful activity at a low concentration.

Efficient formulation concept

Supports efficient formulation design.

Attractive in sophisticated sensitive-skin formulations

Suitable for advanced sensitive-skin products.

Compatible with multi-active cosmetic systems

Can be integrated into multi-active systems.

Published active concentration for Dihydroavenanthramide D (Schmaus G, et al. 2007). Final PuriActives® BioCalmin use level and assay: refer to the current PuriPharm TDS / SPEC.

EVIDENCE — ANTIOXIDANT

Soothing + Radical Defense

ABTS ANTIOXIDANT ASSAYIC50 = 26.54 μMIC50 = 7.57 μg/mL

Published ABTS data report radical-scavenging activity for DHAvD comparable with the reference antioxidants α-tocopherol and Trolox under the same assay conditions.

  • Helps neutralize reactive radicals
  • Helps reduce oxidative amplification of irritation
  • Supports environmental-stress protection concepts
  • Complements sensitive-skin and healthy-aging formulations

Calm Today. Defend Against Tomorrow’s Stress.

Source: Schmaus G, et al. Dihydroavenanthramide D for Anti-irritant and Anti-itch. Cosmetics & Toiletries. 2007;122(11):55–66.

MECHANISTIC CONTEXT

Beyond Histamine: Supporting Control of the Inflammatory Cascade

ROS / Cytokine Stress

↓

IκB degradation

↓

NF-κB Activation

↓

Inflammatory Mediator Expression

Published mechanistic studies on DHAvD demonstrate suppression of NF-κB-related signaling and downstream iNOS / NO responses in experimental biological models — a second, histamine-independent layer of the molecule’s soothing logic.

How to read this evidence: Supporting mechanistic evidence — not a direct clinical skin-efficacy claim. The experimental disease model in the source publication is not a product indication.

MECHANISTIC STUDY — NF-κB · iNOS · NOReference: Lv N, Song MY, Lee YR, et al. Biochem Biophys Res Commun. 2009;387(1):97–102.

MOLECULAR ROBUSTNESS

Stable Across a Remarkably Broad pH Window

Broad pH stability expands formulation possibilities.

pH 3 — pH 5 — pH 7 — pH 9 — pH 12

acidicalkaline

Published stability research evaluated DHAvD at pH 3 · 5 · 7 · 9 · 12 over 24 weeks and reported only slight degradation — even under very acidic and very alkaline conditions.

24 weeks of stability evaluation

WHERE BROAD pH STABILITY MATTERS

Facial skin careCleansing productsShaving products

MORE APPLICATIONS

Scalp productsHair coloring systemsBleaching-associated comfort concepts

Molecule-level stability data (published research; Schmaus G, et al. 2007). Final product pH range and handling: current PuriPharm TDS / SPEC.

FORMULATION SCIENCE

Unlocking Dermal Availability Through Smart Vehicle Design

Vehicle design determines how much DHAvD reaches viable skin.

EX VIVO HUMAN SKIN — FRANZ DIFFUSION

  • 2–4× higher DHAvD release within 30 minutes with a 2% butylene glycol / pentylene glycol blend
  • ≈ 2× penetration into viable skin layers within 30 minutes
  • Sustained delivery advantage maintained over 300 minutes

41% vs 12% of the applied dose, optimized vs reference formulation.

Published formulation science using Dihydroavenanthramide D. Source: Heuschkel S, Wohlrab J, Schmaus G, Neubert RHH. Eur J Pharm Biopharm. 2008;70(1):239–247. doi:10.1016/j.ejpb.2008.04.005

SCALP CARE

Sensitive Scalp Is Sensitive Skin

WHAT SENSITIVE SCALP FEELS LIKE

Itching · Burning · Redness · Dryness · Tightness · Dandruff-associated discomfort · Irritation after coloration or bleaching

WHERE BIOCALMIN FITS

Scalp soothing tonicsSensitive-scalp shampoosAnti-dandruff shampoosScalp serums

MORE APPLICATIONS

Dry-scalp treatmentsHair-color aftercareBleaching / perming comfortDaily scalp care

Comfort Starts at the Scalp.

EVIDENCE — CLINICAL SCALP STUDY

Noticeable Scalp Comfort in 30 Minutes

−57%

scalp itch vs. placebo

after 30 minutes · single application · p < 0.05

CLINICAL SCALP STUDY Information
Participants 18 volunteers with itchy scalp
Test formulation 1% tested same-active formulation
Design Single application, placebo controlled
Evaluation 30-minute evaluation

Relative scalp itch (placebo = 100%).

Source: Published same-active scalp clinical study; n = 18; 30-minute single-application evaluation. Chart redrawn in the PuriPharm visual system.

EVIDENCE — CLINICAL SCALP STUDY

Immediate Comfort. Sustained Performance.

CLINICAL SCALP STUDY — 5 DAYS−40% itching vs. baseline after five days−47% itching vs. placebo after five days

The same study reported a marked reduction in burning sensation.

−40% vs baseline

−47% vs placebo

From Fast Relief to Daily Scalp Comfort

18 volunteers with itchy scalp · once-daily use · 5-day treatment · placebo comparison · symptom scores for itching and burning. Published same-active scalp clinical study; charts redrawn from reported results.

SCALP CARE — COMBINATION CONCEPT

Go Beyond Flake Control

Anti-Dandruff Active + Dihydroavenanthramide D

↓

Flake Management + Itch Comfort

Published patent literature reports combinations of DHAvD with climbazole for itchy scalp and anti-dandruff applications. Human studies described in the patent showed improved itch reduction when the two actives were combined — the anti-dandruff active manages flakes while DHAvD addresses the itch signal.

0.05% DHAvD + 0.2% ClimbazoleSynergy index 0.77synergistically enhanced itch-relieving activity in the patent dataset

APPLICATIONS: Anti-dandruff shampoo · Anti-dandruff scalp serum · Scalp lotion · Itchy dry-scalp products

PATENT REFERENCES:WO2004047833A2 — Anthranilic acid amides and derivatives thereof as cosmetic and pharmaceutical agents (2004)WO2007062957A1 / EP1959915B1 / US8911795B2 — Anthranilic acid amide + anti-dandruff active combinations for itch relief (2007)

APPLICATIONS — SKIN CARE

High-Performance Soothing Across Skin-Care Categories

Add Comfort Without Compromising Performance.

SENSITIVE SKIN

Sensitive-skin serumSoothing essenceRedness-care creamDaily comfort moisturizerSensitive body lotion

HIGH-ACTIVITY SKIN CARE

Retinoid companion careAHA / BHA / PHA formulationsBrightening systemsPost-exfoliation careAdvanced anti-aging formulas

STRESS & RECOVERY

After-sunAfter-shavePost-cleansing comfortDry, itchy-feeling skin careMask formulationsEnvironmental-stress products

APPLICATIONS — HAIR & SCALP

A Dedicated Soothing Strategy for Modern Scalp Care

APPLICATION CONCEPTS

Sensitive scalp shampooScalp soothing tonicAnti-dandruff shampooAnti-dandruff serumDry scalp care

MORE FORMATS

Scalp essencePost-hair-color carePost-bleaching comfortRelaxing / straightening aftercareLeave-on scalp spray

CORE BENEFIT ARCHITECTURE

Anti-ItchAnti-RednessScalp ComfortAnti-Dandruff SupportPost-Chemical-Treatment Soothing

From sensitive-skin care to advanced scalp comfort — one molecule, two territories.

WHY PURIACTIVES® BIOCALMIN

Calm the Signal. Restore the Comfort.

PuriActives® BioCalmin — Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid. A precision molecule for next-generation soothing formulations, from sensitive-skin care to advanced scalp comfort.

FAST

Rapidly helps relieve itch and discomfort.

TARGETED

Acts on the Substance P–mast cell–histamine pathway.

PROVEN

Supported by human, cellular and formulation research.

MULTIFUNCTIONAL

Soothing + redness care + antioxidant defense.

VERSATILE

Designed for advanced skin and scalp concepts.

NanoActive™ SA

NanoActive™ SA Nano-encapsulated Salicylic Acid

Precision purification, from pores to scalp

NEXT-GENERATION SALICYLIC ACID DELIVERY

NanoActive™ SA | Nano-encapsulated Salicylic Acid

Precision purification, from pores to scalp

Powered by PURISOME® FlexVes™ Liposome Technology

INCI: Salicylic Acid

POSITIONING

Proven salicylic acid efficacy × advanced nanoliposomal delivery

NanoActive™ SA combines the well-established biological value of salicylic acid with PuriPharm’s proprietary nano-delivery platform, offering a more formulation-friendly, skin-compatible and targeted solution for modern cosmetic formulations.

Classic salicylic acid, scientifically validated

Keratin renewal and normalized desquamationComedolytic action and follicular decongestionSebum and blemish management

PURISOME® nanoliposomal delivery

Water-phase friendlyControlled, sustained deliveryPotential for follicular targeting

Face care · Body care · Scalp and hair care

MODERN SKIN & SCALP CHALLENGES

Oily skin and scalp: persistent, recurring concerns

Recurring concerns

01 Visibly enlarged pores02 Excess keratin buildup03 Blackheads and whiteheads04 Rough, uneven texture05 Shine and dullness06 Recurrent pore congestion07 Scalp oil and adherent flakes

What determines the appearance of visible pores?

Keratin buildup within folliclesLevel of sebum productionStructural visibility of follicular openingsSkin surface texture

Pore appearance = keratin × sebum × structure × texture

Pore concerns are multifactorial. This limits purely astringent approaches and provides a clear scientific entry point for actives that manage keratinization.

THE CLASSIC ACTIVE

Salicylic acid: an enduring classic in skin science

Salicylic Acid · C₇H₆O₃

INCI: Salicylic AcidType: aromatic hydroxy acid (BHA), pKa ≈ 3.0Properties: lipophilic, with affinity for sebum-rich and follicular environments; limited solubility in water at room temperature.

01 Aromatic hydroxy-acid structure

The benzene ring and ortho hydroxyl and carboxyl groups determine its distinctive physicochemical behavior.

02 Lipophilicity

Unlike water-soluble AHAs, it can enter sebum-rich follicular environments.

03 Affinity for the pilosebaceous unit

It can act where comedones and blemishes originate.

04 Activity within the stratum corneum

It acts on connections between corneocytes without requiring deep penetration.

Its molecular properties give salicylic acid a distinctive role in pore and follicular care.

MECHANISM 01 · DESMOLYTIC ACTION

Mechanism 1: desmolysis regulates cohesion rather than “dissolving keratin”

Modern skin science holds that salicylic acid disrupts intercellular connections and reduces corneocyte cohesion, allowing abnormally accumulated keratin to shed in an orderly manner rather than simply “dissolving keratin.”

Densely accumulated stratum corneum

↓

Reduced corneocyte cohesion

↓

Normalized desquamation

↓

Smoother skin surface

Formulation relevance: Desmolysis rather than aggressive peeling supports keratin management with a lower burden. This biology underpins applications for oily skin, pores, blemishes and the scalp.

MECHANISM 02 · COMEDOLYTIC ACTION

Mechanism 2: comedolytic action along the follicular pathway

Comedone formation cascade

Hyperkeratinization

↓

Follicular opening blockage

↓

Microcomedone

↓

Blackhead / whitehead

↓

Inflammatory lesion

① Normalized desquamation

Corrects hyperkeratinization at the follicular opening and reduces blockage at its source.

② Lipophilic penetration

Moves through the sebum-rich environment into the follicle instead of remaining on the surface.

③ Reduced cellular buildup

Decreases abnormal accumulation of keratinocytes within the follicle.

④ Comedolysis

Helps clear established blockages and improve blackheads and whiteheads.

Effective comedone management depends on keratinization within the follicle, not only surface cleansing. Salicylic acid’s lipophilicity gives it this distinctive position.

Mechanism review: Arif T. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015;8:455–461.

MECHANISM 03 · INFLAMMATION & BLEMISH BIOLOGY

Mechanism 3: the inflammatory dimension of acne biology

Inflammation is present throughout acne development, including the invisible microcomedone stage. Blemish care therefore should not begin only after lesions become visible.

Published literature reports that salicylic acid modulates multiple inflammation-related pathways, including arachidonic-acid metabolism and inflammatory signaling. Together with its desmolytic and comedolytic actions, this supports both purification and stabilization.

Sebum production + abnormal keratinization

↓

Changed follicular microenvironment

↓

Microbial involvement

↓

Amplified inflammatory cascade

↓

Erythema, papules and post-acne marks

Salicylic acid intervenes at several upstream points: keratinization, the follicular environment and inflammation.

These mechanism-level statements reflect literature consensus and explain ingredient-level biological relevance. They do not constitute pharmaceutical treatment claims.

Mechanism review: Arif T. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015;8:455–461.

CLINICAL EVIDENCE 01 · ASIAN ACNE STUDY

30% salicylic acid peel: a 12-week study in Asian patients with acne

35

Asian participants

Mild to moderate

Facial acne

30%

Salicylic acid peel

Every 2 weeks

One treatment

12 weeks

Observation period

77.1%

Reported moderate or good improvement

  • Significant reduction in inflammatory lesions
  • Significant reduction in non-inflammatory lesions
  • Significant decrease in overall acne severity
  • No statistically significant worsening in stratum-corneum hydration, surface lipids, skin pH or TEWL

Lee HS, Kim IH. Salicylic acid peels for the treatment of acne vulgaris in Asian patients. Dermatol Surg. 2003;29:1196–1199.

This is published clinical evidence for salicylic acid, not a finished-product efficacy trial of NanoActive™ SA.

CLINICAL EVIDENCE 02 · COMEDONE COUNT

Mean facial comedone count fell by approximately 75% over 10 weeks

Statistical significance

p = 0.001

Study information

Participants: 16 Japanese patientsSystem: 30% salicylic acid in PEGFrequency: once every 2 weeksDuration: 10 weeks

Mean count decreased from 39.3 at baseline to 9.2 at Week 10, with continued improvement throughout follow-up.

Hashimoto Y, et al. Salicylic acid peels in polyethylene glycol vehicle for the treatment of comedogenic acne in Japanese patients. Dermatol Surg. 2008;34:276–279.

Published evidence for a 30% salicylic acid–PEG peel, not a finished-product efficacy trial of NanoActive™ SA.

POST-ACNE MARKS · UNEVEN TONE

From acne to post-acne marks: a framework for managing pigmentation

How salicylic acid can improve uneven tone

① Normalize exfoliation: accelerate surface renewal

↓

② Remove pigment-containing corneocytes: lift superficial deposited pigment

↓

③ Improve acne-related inflammation: reduce conditions that promote new marks

↓

A more even-looking skin tone

Salicylic acid is not a tyrosinase inhibitor. Its tone-related value comes from the combined effects of keratin renewal and inflammation management, not direct inhibition of melanin synthesis.

Comparative clinical evidence

30% salicylic acid vs 30% glycolic acidMild-to-moderate acne with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)

Study findings

Both peel regimens improved PIH; the salicylic acid group showed better tolerability in this study; relevant to combined acne and post-acne-mark concerns.

The literature also documents salicylic acid use in superficial peels for melasma and photo-induced uneven tone.

Reference: Arif T. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015;8:455–461.

TEXTURE & PHOTOAGING

Beyond blemish care: keratin renewal and younger-looking texture

Controlled keratin renewal can address not only blemishes, but also surface features associated with aging and photodamage:

  • Roughness and grainy texture
  • Dullness and loss of radiance
  • Fine surface lines
  • Uneven texture
  • Visible signs of photoaging

Change from baseline with a sodium salicylate formulation

Evidence boundary: The study tested a sodium salicylate formulation, not free salicylic acid. Histology also indicated increases in fibrillin and procollagen I. The findings support salicylate/exfoliation biology and are not direct clinical evidence for NanoActive™ SA.

Merinville E, et al. Three clinical studies showing the anti-aging benefits of sodium salicylate in human skin. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2010;9:174–184. Wrinkle depth and skin roughness decreased significantly at Weeks 4 and 8.

THE FORMULATION PARADOX

The challenge with salicylic acid is delivery, not efficacy

Salicylic acid has limited solubility in water at room temperature. Traditional clear aqueous products often rely on ethanol, glycols, surfactant solubilization, partial neutralization and precise pH management, creating a persistent trade-off between efficacy and formulation elegance.

Traditional free-salicylic-acid formulation pathway

Salicylic acid powder

↓

Solvent system

↓

Partial neutralization

↓

pH adjustment

↓

Trade-offs in crystallization, irritation and sensory profile

Each step solves one problem while introducing another compromise.

NanoActive™ SA technology pathway

NanoActive™ SA

↓

Pre-engineered nano-delivery

↓

Easy incorporation into the aqueous phase

↓

Controlled active delivery · formulation freedom

The carrier addresses solubility so formulators regain design flexibility. Delivery technology is the dividing line in modernizing salicylic acid.

FREE ACID & pH

The free-acid state determines effective delivery

Salicylic Acid ⇌ Salicylate− + H+

Molecular form (free acid)  Ionic form (salicylate)

pH < pKa

Free acid predominates, with a greater tendency to penetrate.

pKa ≈ 3.0

Key reference point for the ionization equilibrium.

pH > pKa

The salt form predominates, increasing water solubility.

01 Molecular and ionic forms

They differ in solubility, partition coefficient and skin penetration.

02 pH determines equilibrium

Small pH adjustments can change the free-acid fraction in the same formulation.

03 Carrier and pH jointly affect penetration

The formulation itself is part of salicylic acid performance.

04 Cost of conventional neutralization

Higher water solubility comes with a changed effective free-acid fraction.

PURISOME® Technology proposition: A nanocarrier environment supports effective salicylic acid delivery while improving formulation compatibility and reducing reliance on high solvent levels and complex neutralization strategies.

THE PURIPHARM RESPONSE

NanoActive™ SA: PuriPharm’s technology response

NanoActive™ SANano-encapsulated salicylic acidINCI: Salicylic AcidPowered by PURISOME® FlexVes™ Liposome Technology

Maintains an effective free-acid state

The carrier environment protects the effective form of salicylic acid.

Aqueous formulation compatibility

Disperses stably and incorporates easily into aqueous systems.

Potential for clear formulations

Supports modern formats such as clear serums and gels.

Reduced solvent dependence

Reduces the need for large amounts of ethanol or polyols.

Controlled delivery

Gradual release produces more even exposure.

Improved skin comfort

A sustained-release approach supports a better user experience.

Potential for follicular targeting

Follicular reservoir effect and localized enrichment.

Face and scalp applications

One platform supports multiple use cases.

This is a redesigned delivery pathway for salicylic acid, not merely salicylic acid placed inside a carrier.

THE TECHNOLOGY PLATFORM

PURISOME® FlexVes™ Liposome Technology

PuriPharm’s proprietary advanced nanoliposomal platform uses skin-compatible phospholipid bilayer vesicles.

Cross-sectional schematic: amphiphilic phospholipids self-assemble into a bilayer that encapsulates or associates with the active.

01 Improved formulation compatibility

A water-dispersed format bypasses the solubility bottleneck.

02 Controlled, sustained release

Carrier association releases the active gradually through interfacial processes.

03 Lower potential for localized irritation

Avoids sudden skin contact with a high concentration of free acid.

04 Improved deposition and delivery

Skin-compatible lipids promote active deposition in the target region.

Hereafter referred to as PURISOME® Technology. Its four delivery advantages support the same goal: bringing the active to the intended site at an appropriate rate.

DELIVERY MECHANISM

PURISOME® FlexVes™: a redesigned salicylic acid delivery pathway

Schematic: larger particles remain on the surface because they cannot pass through intercellular gaps, while smaller nanocarriers can move along these gaps and release the active.

01 Interaction with stratum-corneum lipids

Skin-compatible phospholipids approach intercellular lipids.

02 Gradual release

The active is progressively released from the carrier interface.

03 Follicular deposition

The carrier moves along the follicular pathway and enriches the target region.

Nanoscale delivery · skin-compatible lipids · controlled release · improved compatibility · follicular-delivery potential · better sensory profile

The schematic follows standard pharmaceutics models of phospholipid bilayer vesicle interactions with skin.

FOLLICULAR TARGETING

Follicular targeting and the follicular-reservoir concept

Nanoparticles vs free drug: a, stratum-corneum surface; b, enrichment in the follicular infundibulum; c, migration deeper along the follicle.

Particles deposit in the follicular infundibulum and diffuse into surrounding tissue.

Follicular targeting · follicular reservoir · localized enrichment

  • Blackheads and comedones
  • Oily pores
  • Scalp buildup
  • Keratin buildup within follicles

Statements about follicular targeting and reservoirs are based on the PURISOME® Technology platform’s delivery concept and are consistent with existing NanoActive™ platform data.

Left image adapted from Prow TW, et al. Nanoparticles and microparticles for skin drug delivery. Adv Drug Deliv Rev. 2011;63:470–491.

CONTROLLED RELEASE & SKIN COMFORT

From concentration peaks to gradual release

Traditional free salicylic acid

Rapid local exposure produces a concentration peak, with potential stinging and irritation.

NanoActive™ SA

Carrier-associated delivery supports gradual release, more even local exposure and potential for improved comfort.

Nanocarrier occlusion effectSmaller particles and a higher number of carriers per unit area can form a denser lipid film on the skin surface. This may improve stratum-corneum hydration, promote active penetration and reduce water loss, adding another mechanistic basis for efficacy with comfort.

FOR FORMULATORS

Making salicylic acid easier to formulate and use

  1. Easy incorporation and process-friendly handling
  2. Suitable for aqueous systems
  3. Potential for transparent and clear formulations
  4. Reduced dependence on high ethanol levels
  5. Less need for aggressive solubilization strategies
  6. Compatible with serums, gels, cleansers and scalp formats
  7. Can be added at low temperature, depending on the process
Process and compatibility guidance Details
Suggested use level Approximately 1–5%
Addition method Add at low temperature
Compatibility note Avoid combining with divalent or trivalent metal ions

Based on historical PuriPharm technical materials. If this information differs from the latest product TDS, follow the current TDS.

Formulation freedom is itself a product advantage.

APPLICATION MAP

One application map, from face to scalp

FACE

Anti-acne serumPore-refining serumKeratin-regulating tonerCleanserClear gelMoisturizer for oily skinBlemish care

BODY

Body acne sprays and lotionsKeratosis pilaris careExfoliating body washCare for rough areas

SCALP & HAIR

Anti-dandruff shampooShampoo for oily scalpScalp serumScalp exfoliating treatmentScalp-cleansing products

One technology platform supports three major application areas: face, body and scalp.

SCALP & HAIR 01 · SCALP BIOLOGY

From facial pores to scalp follicles

Persistent scalp concerns

01 Scalp keratin buildup02 Excess scalp oil03 Adherent flakes04 Buildup at follicular openings05 Scalp cleanliness and freshness06 Disrupted scalp-renewal rhythm

Why salicylic acid suits scalp care

Desmolytic action: softens and removes corneocytes adhering to the scalp surface.Reduced surface buildup: addresses adherent layers formed by oil and keratin.Clearer follicular openings: lipophilicity supports entry along the sebum-rich environment.Improved appearance of oily scalp: a fresher scalp and lighter-feeling roots.

Scalp follicles present a problem structurally analogous to facial pores. Scalp care is another application of the same keratin biology, not merely an extension of facial care.

SCALP & HAIR 02 · DANDRUFF CARE

Scalp purification and dandruff care

Biology of dandruff

Dandruff is associated with abnormal desquamation of the stratum corneum.Malassezia plays an important role in dandruff biology.Effective management should address flake control, microbial factors and overall scalp condition.

Scalp positioning of NanoActive™ SA

① Desmolytic scalp active② Scalp-flake removal③ Oily-scalp care④ Follicular cleansing⑤ Supporting ingredient in anti-dandruff shampoo systems

Scientific boundary: salicylic acid should not be claimed as a standalone antifungal ingredient. In multi-ingredient anti-dandruff systems, it contributes keratin management and flake control.

Suggested formats: anti-dandruff shampoo · shampoo for oily scalp · scalp serum · scalp treatment liquid · scalp exfoliating treatment · pre-shampoo scalp care

Dandruff systems require multiple complementary mechanisms. NanoActive™ SA addresses the keratin and flake-control component.

COMPARISON

Traditional salicylic acid vs NanoActive™ SA

Dimension Traditional salicylic acid NanoActive™ SA
Aqueous formulation difficulty High: limited water solubility Low: easy dispersion and incorporation in water
Crystallization risk Potential precipitation and crystallization Carrier encapsulation lowers risk
Solvent dependence Often requires high levels of ethanol or polyols Dependence substantially reduced
pH management Precise control changes the free-acid fraction A more flexible formulation window
Delivery profile Rapid release and local concentration peak Gradual release and more even exposure
Skin comfort Stinging possible at high concentration Sustained-release approach with comfort potential
Clear-formulation capability Limited Supports clear, transparent formulations
Follicular delivery Relies on compensating formulation engineering Potential for follicular targeting and reservoir deposition
Dosage-form flexibility Limited selection Serums, gels, cleansers and scalp formats
Fit for scalp applications Dual challenge of solubilization and irritation Aqueous-friendly and suited to modern scalp formats

VALUE PROPOSITION

NanoActive™ SA: a four-dimensional value proposition

EFFICACY|Classic salicylic acid, multidimensional purification

Peer-reviewed literature supports the combined mechanisms of keratin renewal, comedolysis and inflammation modulation.

DELIVERY|PURISOME® nanoliposomal delivery

Skin-compatible phospholipid bilayer vesicles carry the active and support follicular targeting and reservoir deposition.

COMFORT|Sustained-release concept for a better experience

Gradual release smooths concentration peaks and troughs, adding comfort potential to efficacy.

FORMULATION|Aqueous-friendly with greater design freedom

From serums to shampoos, the platform enables salicylic acid formats that were previously difficult to formulate.

Evidence for efficacy, technology for delivery, attention to experience and room for formulation.

REFERENCES

References and evidence grading

Published literature cited in this presentation

  1. Lee HS, Kim IH. Salicylic acid peels for the treatment of acne vulgaris in Asian patients. Dermatol Surg. 2003;29:1196–1199.
  2. Hashimoto Y, et al. Salicylic acid peels in polyethylene glycol vehicle for the treatment of comedogenic acne in Japanese patients. Dermatol Surg. 2008;34:276–279.
  3. Arif T. Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015;8:455–461.
  4. Merinville E, et al. Three clinical studies showing the anti-aging benefits of sodium salicylate in human skin. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2010;9:174–184.

Clinical evidence for salicylic acid

References [1] and [2]: 30% peel systems, not finished-product studies.

Evidence for a salicylate derivative

Reference [4]: sodium salicylate, supporting the biological pathway.

Mechanism and review literature

Reference [3]: exfoliation, comedolysis and skin-tone applications.

None of the published references cited here constitutes a finished-product efficacy trial of NanoActive™ SA.

NANOACTIVE™ SA

Making classic salicylic acid more suitable for next-generation formulations

Powered by PURISOME® FlexVes™ Liposome Technology

PuriPharm Co. Ltd.

NanoActive™ Azelaic Acid 50%

ENGLISH VERSIONComplete English Article

PURIPHARM CO., LTD. · TECHNICAL PRESENTATION · COSMETIC ACTIVE INGREDIENT

NANOACTIVE™ SERIES · NANO-ENCAPSULATED ACTIVES

NanoActive™Azelaic Acid 50%

Nano-encapsulated Azelaic Acid 50%

Multi-pathway skin clarification · Pigment management · Follicular clarification

Abstract: 50% high-payload azelaic acid combined with next-generation nanoliposome delivery. Four published evidence pathways—keratinization regulation, microbiome clarification, inflammation modulation, and pigment management—address the classic formulation paradox of an effective but difficult-to-formulate molecule.

Powered by PURISOME® FlexVes™ Liposome TechnologyPuriPharm Co., Ltd.

PART II · ENGLISH VERSION

POSITIONING · PRODUCT POSITIONING

Re-engineering how azelaic acid is delivered

50% high-payload azelaic acid × next-generation nano delivery

Powerful multi-pathway biology

↓

A difficult-to-formulate molecule

↓

PURISOME® nanoliposome delivery

↓

Modern azelaic acid formulation

Azelaic acid has long-established value in blemish-prone skin, pigmentation, and follicular biology. Its main limitation is formulation and delivery rather than efficacy. NanoActive™ Azelaic Acid 50% addresses this classic paradox through a 50% active payload and PURISOME® nanoliposome delivery.

ONE MOLECULE · MULTIPLE PATHWAYS

The multidimensional biology of azelaic acid

Azelaic acid is more than an anti-acne ingredient. It is one of the few multifunctional actives that simultaneously addresses keratinization, the microbiome, inflammation, and pigmentation pathways.

01

Keratinization regulation

Regulates terminal differentiation of keratinocytes in the follicular infundibulum and helps reduce follicular keratin buildup at its source.

02

Microbiome clarification + inflammation modulation

Interferes with intracellular bacterial protein synthesis, reduces neutrophil ROS release, and modulates inflammatory signaling.

03

Pigment management

Competitively inhibits tyrosinase to support the management of post-acne marks, visible hyperpigmentation, and uneven tone.

04

Follicular and scalp microenvironment

Published evidence of follicular accumulation extends its potential use to scalp and follicular care.

Blemish-prone skin · Abnormal keratinization · Microbiome · Visible inflammation · Post-acne marks · Uneven tone · Oxidative stress · Follicular and scalp care: multiple pathways addressed by one molecule.

THE FORMULATION PARADOX

Effective, yet difficult to formulate

≈ 0.24%

Intrinsic water solubility of azelaic acid at 20°C · reported in the literature

15–20%

Use levels in established topical efficacy research · historical literature and pharmaceutical products

How can a high-dose, poorly soluble molecule be incorporated into an elegant modern formulation?

Note: 15–20% refers to use levels in historical literature and pharmaceutical products. It illustrates the formulation challenge and does not represent a recommended cosmetic use level for NanoActive™ Azelaic Acid 50%.

MECHANISM I · KERATINIZATION REGULATION

Keratinization regulation: reducing follicular keratin buildup at the source

Abnormal keratinocyte differentiation

↓

Follicular hyperkeratinization

↓

Microcomedone formation

↓

Comedones and clogged pores

↓

Inflammatory lesions

Published evidence shows that azelaic acid has antikeratinizing activity and helps restore disrupted terminal differentiation of keratinocytes in the follicular infundibulum.

  • Reduces follicular hyperkeratosis
  • Decreases the number and volume of keratohyalin granules
  • Improves abnormal follicular keratinization and restores terminal keratinocyte differentiation

Cosmetic value positioning: helps reduce follicular keratin buildup at its source.

Pathological sequence in acne-prone follicles: abnormal keratinization is the starting point. Normal Follicle vs Hyperkeratinized Follicle.

PUBLISHED EVIDENCE · HISTOLOGIC EVIDENCE OF KERATINIZATION NORMALIZATION

Marked reduction and normalization of hyperkeratosis after 8–12 weeks

8–12 weeks

20% azelaic acid cream, applied twice dailyMarked reduction or normalization of intrafollicular and interfollicular hyperkeratosis

01

Marked reduction in hyperkeratosis

Histologic observations showed marked improvement or normalization of both intrafollicular and interfollicular hyperkeratosis.

02

Fewer and smaller keratohyalin granules

The number and size of keratohyalin granules decreased, indicating normalization of the keratinization process.

03

Normalization of terminal keratinocyte differentiation

Disrupted terminal differentiation was corrected, restoring a healthier follicular keratinization pattern.

Gollnick H. Azelaic acid — pharmacology, toxicology and mechanisms of action on keratinization in vitro and in vivo. J Dermatol Treat. 1993.Published evidence on conventional azelaic acid formulations; not a finished-product clinical trial of NanoActive™ Azelaic Acid 50%.

MECHANISM II · FOLLICULAR MICROBIOME

Follicular microbiome: antimicrobial action from within the cell

Azelaic acid

↓

Transport into the bacterial cell

↓

Interference with intracellular protein synthesis

↓

Reduced microbial growth and proliferation

This is more specific than a general claim of “killing acne bacteria.” Published mechanistic research indicates that azelaic acid enters bacterial cells via transport mechanisms and interferes with intracellular protein synthesis, thereby reducing microbial growth and proliferation.

01

Cutibacterium acnes

Formerly Propionibacterium acnes; the historical name is retained when citing original publications.

02

Staphylococcus epidermidis

A resident skin bacterium examined in microbiome-related research.

PUBLISHED EVIDENCE · ANTIMICROBIAL ACTION

At least 96% reduction in skin-surface and follicular-associated bacteria after 8 weeks

≥96%

Reduction in bacteria sampled from the skin surface and follicles

20%

Azelaic acid cream

8 weeks

Topical treatment period

Surface + follicle

Two sampling levels

After 8 weeks of topical treatment with 20% azelaic acid cream, counts of propionibacteria and staphylococci on the skin surface and within follicles fell by at least 96%, demonstrating microbiome clarification that reaches into the follicle.

Holland KT, Bojar RA. Antimicrobial effects of azelaic acid. J Dermatol Treat. 1993.Published evidence using a conventional 20% azelaic acid cream; not a finished-product clinical trial of NanoActive™ Azelaic Acid 50%.

MECHANISM III · ROS & INFLAMMATION

Reducing oxidative stress and modulating inflammatory signals

Azelaic acid

↓

Reduced neutrophil ROS release

↓

Lower oxidative inflammatory burden

Pathway examined in published research: CD36 → NADPH oxidase → ROS → MAPK → NF-κB

The literature reports that azelaic acid can reduce reactive oxygen species generation and downregulate oxidative inflammatory cascades. Related studies also involve innate immune signaling nodes such as TLR2, KLK5, and LL-37/cathelicidin, although the strength of evidence varies by target.

01

Soothes blemish-prone skin

Cosmetic value

02

Supports improvement in the appearance of redness

Cosmetic value

03

Improves the inflammatory environment around clogged follicles

Cosmetic value

04

Supports a healthier-looking skin texture

Cosmetic value

CLINICAL EVIDENCE · INFLAMMATORY LESIONS

Greater reduction in inflammatory lesion counts with 15% azelaic acid gel

  • 251 adult patients
  • Moderate-to-severe papulopustular rosacea
  • 15-week controlled clinical study
  • 15% azelaic acid gel vs active comparator gel; the azelaic acid group had a greater mean reduction in inflammatory lesion count

This evidence supports the anti-inflammatory skin biology of azelaic acid. The comparator is described generically and no commercial brand is identified.

Elewski BE, et al. A comparison of 15% azelaic acid gel and 0.75% metronidazole gel in the topical treatment of papulopustular rosacea. Arch Dermatol. 2003;139:1444–1450.

MECHANISM IV · PIGMENT CONTROL

Pigment management through competitive tyrosinase inhibition

L-Tyrosine

↓

Tyrosinasecompetitively inhibited by azelaic acid

↓

L-DOPA

↓

Dopaquinone

↓

Melanin

Azelaic acid has been reported to competitively inhibit tyrosinase and to have specific biological relevance in hyperactive melanocyte systems. Together with reduced ROS, modulation of melanogenesis, and improvement of the post-inflammatory environment, this forms a more complete pigment-management pathway. Azelaic acid is not a bleaching agent; it is a multi-pathway pigment-management active.

  • Post-acne marks
  • Uneven tone
  • Visible hyperpigmentation
  • Management of dullness and skin clarity

CLINICAL EVIDENCE · HYPERPIGMENTATION

20% azelaic acid: an established clinical foundation for pigment management

  • Randomized, double-blind, controlled clinical study
  • 329 female participants
  • 24 weeks · 20% azelaic acid vs 4% hydroquinone
  • Median reduction in lesion area: approximately 71% vs approximately 78%
  • Good/excellent overall improvement: 64.8% vs 72.5%
  • No statistically significant difference between groups in overall improvement

Clinical research in melasma and other hyperpigmentation concerns shows that azelaic acid has an efficacy foundation comparable with that of a classic reference ingredient.

Gupta AK, et al. The treatment of melasma: A review of clinical trials. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2006;55:1048–1065.

POST-ACNE MARKS · FROM BLEMISH TO MARK

Pigmentation may persist after the blemish resolves

Follicular blockage

↓

Inflammation

↓

ROS / inflammatory mediators

↓

Melanocyte activation

↓

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentationPIH / post-acne marks

Five stages addressed by azelaic acid: keratinization, the inflammatory environment, microbiome balance, tyrosinase, and oxidative stress.

From blemish to mark: one active addresses a more complete biological pathway.

FOLLICULAR DELIVERY MATTERS · EVIDENCE OF FOLLICULAR ACCUMULATION

The follicle is where azelaic acid needs to reach

  • Single topical application of 20% azelaic acid cream
  • 9 healthy adults · forehead and back
  • Follicular casts collected over 5 hours
  • Measurable accumulation of azelaic acid in the pilosebaceous unit

36–251

mmol/L · estimated peak concentration in back follicles

2–112

mmol/L · estimated peak concentration in forehead follicles

Follicular concentrations reached or exceeded the concentrations required to inhibit C. acnes and S. epidermidis in vitro. This provides a scientific foundation for the PURISOME® follicular-delivery concept.

Bojar RA, et al. Follicular concentrations of azelaic acid after a single topical application. Br J Dermatol. 1993;129:399–402.Published data on a conventional azelaic acid formulation; not a NanoActive™ Azelaic Acid 50% product study.

WHY NANO DELIVERY MATTERS

Azelaic acid needs better delivery, not proof of efficacy

Formulation realities of conventional azelaic acid NanoActive™ delivery rationale
Extremely low intrinsic water solubility (≈0.24% at 20°C) NanoActive™ Azelaic Acid 50%
Historical products rely on high effective use levels PURISOME® liposomal delivery · high active payload
Risk of crystallization, recrystallization, and particles Improved formulation compatibility · lower free-crystal burden
Risk of a gritty skin feel and high solids loading Controlled skin and follicular delivery
Difficult to incorporate into low-viscosity, transparent modern dosage forms
Limited suitability for serums and scalp formats

Delivery efficiency, not simply the concentration added.

SCIENTIFIC PRECEDENT · PHOSPHOLIPID VESICLE DELIVERY

Vesicular delivery of azelaic acid: scientific exploration since 2004

As early as 2004, azelaic acid was systematically investigated in phospholipid-based vesicular systems, including liposomes and ethosomes. Vesicle morphology, particle-size distribution, and in vitro release were fully characterized.

  • Characterization of phospholipid vesicle morphology and size distribution
  • Franz-cell in vitro release curves
  • Systematic comparison of release from liposomes and ethosomes

Phospholipid-vesicle delivery is an established scientific strategy for improving topical azelaic acid formulation and release behavior.

Esposito E, et al. Ethosomes and liposomes as topical vehicles for azelaic acid: A preformulation study. J Cosmet Sci. 2004;55:253–264.

PUBLISHED PROOF OF CONCEPT · LIPOSOMAL AZELAIC ACID

10% liposomal azelaic acid produced greater stratum corneum deposition than a conventional 20% formulation

  • Approximate liposome diameter: 211 nm
  • PDI ≈ 0.22–0.24, indicating a uniform distribution
  • With half the active concentration, stratum corneum deposition increased 2.3–3.6-fold

Delivery efficiency, not simply the concentration added.

Burchacka E, et al. Biomed Pharmacother. 2016;83:771–775. DOI: 10.1016/j.biopha.2016.07.014An independently published proof-of-concept study of liposomal azelaic acid; not PURISOME® technology data.

DELIVERY TECHNOLOGY

PURISOME® FlexVes™

A delivery system redesigned for high-payload azelaic acid

PURISOME® is PuriPharm’s proprietary nanoliposome delivery platform. Nanoscale phospholipid-bilayer vesicles carry a 50% azelaic acid payload from an aqueous environment, through the stratum corneum and follicular openings, to support local accumulation and controlled release.

01

Improved formulation compatibility

FORMULATION

02

Optimized skin and follicular delivery

DELIVERY

03

Sustained release

CONTROL

04

Improved user experience with a high active load

COMFORT

Powered by PURISOME® FlexVes™ Liposome Technology

PRODUCT PROFILE

NanoActive™ Azelaic Acid 50%

Nano-encapsulated Azelaic Acid 50% · Powered by PURISOME® FlexVes™ Liposome Technology

Product name NanoActive™ Azelaic Acid 50%
INCI Azelaic Acid
Active content 50% azelaic acid (raw-material active-payload specification)
Delivery technology PURISOME® FlexVes™ Liposome Technology
Active molecule Azelaic acid
Chemical class Saturated C9 dicarboxylic acid
Molecular formula C9H16O4
Molecular weight 188.22
Structural formula HOOC–(CH2)7–COOH

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring saturated nine-carbon dicarboxylic acid. The 50% figure is the raw material’s active-content specification, not the use concentration in a finished product. Particle size, pH, recommended use level, and other technical parameters should follow the latest PuriPharm TDS.

HIGH ACTIVE PAYLOAD

50% azelaic acid active payload

50%

AZELAIC ACID PAYLOAD

50% high active payload

↓

PURISOME® nano delivery

↓

Greater formulation freedom

50% is the active-content specification of the raw material, not the use concentration in a finished formulation.

A high-payload raw material allows formulators to deliver a meaningful azelaic acid level without introducing excessive carrier material into the finished product. This preserves valuable formulation space for refining skin feel, stability, and dosage form, leaving genuine freedom for serums, gels, emulsions, and scalp formats.

DELIVERY MECHANISM

Controlled release from the aqueous phase into the follicle

Aqueous environment

↓

Nanolipid vesicles

↓

Stratum corneum

↓

Follicular opening

↓

Local controlled release

Nanoscale phospholipid vesicles carry azelaic acid along the skin surface and follicular pathways, supporting local accumulation and sustained release in the target area. In this way, the delivery destination becomes part of formulation design.

BLEMISH-PRONE SKIN · MULTI-PATHWAY CARE

Azelaic acid addresses three of the four acne pathways

Pathway Role Description
Follicular hyperkeratinization Core action Regulates keratinization and addresses the source of follicular blockage
Microbial colonization Core action Interferes with intracellular bacterial protein synthesis and clarifies the follicular microbiome
Inflammation / ROS Core action Reduces oxidative stress and modulates inflammatory signaling
Sebum–follicle environment Associated environment Indirectly relates to this pathway by improving the follicular microenvironment

Scientific rigor note: current literature does not support a claim that azelaic acid directly suppresses sebum secretion, so no such claim is made here. Its value lies in acting simultaneously on three core pathways: keratinization, the microbiome, and inflammatory oxidative stress.

Multi-pathway management for blemish-prone skin: a complete path from keratinization and the microbiome to inflammation and pigmentation.

COMBINATION INSPIRATION · COMBINATION RESEARCH

Azelaic acid × salicylic acid: clinical exploration of a multi-pathway combination

Study design · randomized controlled trial Published results
34 patients with acne · split-face design Inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne lesions improved significantly on both sides
4 treatments · 2-week intervals The SA + AA side produced higher patient satisfaction and less discomfort
20% salicylic acid + 20% azelaic acid
Comparator side: 25% trichloroacetic acid (TCA) chemical peel

Azelaic acid can be combined with other keratinization-regulating actives to build multi-pathway solutions for blemish-prone skin.

This was a clinical chemical-peel protocol. It is presented as scientific inspiration for combination concepts and does not constitute a cosmetic formulation recommendation or concentration guideline.

Abdel Hay R, et al. Clinical and dermoscopic evaluation of combined salicylic acid 20% and azelaic acid 20% versus trichloroacetic acid 25% chemical peel in acne: an RCT. J Dermatolog Treat. 2019;30(6):572–577. DOI: 10.1080/09546634.2018.1484876

SCALP CARE

From skin follicles to scalp follicles

The same follicular biology also applies to the scalp. Scalp care involves more than oil control.

Six microenvironmental concerns in scalp follicles: keratin buildup, follicular blockage, the inflammatory environment, microbiome balance, oxidative stress, and the sebum environment.

  • Care for oily scalp · clarifying scalp formulas
  • Follicular cleansing · acne-prone scalp
  • Scalp microbiome management
  • Scalp soothing and renewal

HAIR-FOLLICLE BIOLOGY

5α-reductase: an exploratory mechanism for scalp applications

Testosterone

↓

5α-Reductasepresent in human hair follicles

↓

DHT

Published biochemical research examined the inhibitory effect of azelaic acid—particularly when combined with zinc—on 5α-reductase activity in human skin. This provides mechanistic scientific support for exploring scalp applications.

Scientifically rigorous product-development language:

  • Supports management of the follicular microenvironment
  • Research on 5α-reductase-related mechanisms provides a new scientific direction for scalp applications
  • Provides a mechanistic product-development rationale for oily-scalp and androgen-related follicular care

Stamatiadis D, et al. Inhibition of 5α-reductase activity in human skin by zinc and azelaic acid. Br J Dermatol. 1988;119:627–632.

APPLICATION MAP

One active for the face, body, and scalp

01

FACE

Anti-blemish oil-control serumPore-care serumPost-acne mark repair serumBrightening serumUneven-tone careRedness-care formulaMoisturizer for oily skinClarifying cleanser

02

BODY

Back-acne careChest-acne careBody hyperpigmentation serumFollicular roughness care

03

SCALP

Clarifying scalp serumOily-scalp serumFollicular-care serumScalp keratinization careSoothing scalp productsClarifying shampooHair-root serum

All application directions are positioned for cosmetic use. Compatibility with specific dosage forms should follow the latest PuriPharm TDS and formulation support.

COMPARISON · FORMULATION VALUE

Conventional azelaic acid powder vs NanoActive™ Azelaic Acid 50%

Dimension Conventional azelaic acid powder NanoActive™ Azelaic Acid 50%
Aqueous-phase compatibility Extremely low intrinsic water solubility (≈0.24% at 20°C) Pre-engineered nanodispersion system
Dispersion difficulty Requires solubilization or suspension strategies Uniform dispersion and easy incorporation
Solids loading High use levels create a high solids load 50% high payload reduces formulation burden
Crystallization management Free crystalline active; recrystallization must be controlled Carrier-associated active delivery
Skin feel Risk of grittiness Smooth sensory profile designed for modern formats
Delivery strategy Primarily passive diffusion PURISOME® nanoliposome delivery
Follicular delivery Limited potential Delivery designed for the follicular pathway
Release behavior Sustained release is difficult to achieve Carrier-mediated sustained release
Formulation flexibility Mainly high-viscosity suspension formats Serums / gels / emulsions / scalp formats
Scalp suitability Difficult Good

KEY VALUE PROPOSITION

Making high-concentration azelaic acid more suitable for next-generation formulations

01

Multi-pathway azelaic acid biology

MULTI-ACTION

02

50% high payload

HIGH PAYLOAD

03

PURISOME® nano delivery

PRECISION DELIVERY

04

Greater freedom for modern formulations

FORMULATION FREEDOM

05

From facial blemish-prone skin to scalp-follicle care

SKIN + SCALP

NanoActive™ Azelaic Acid 50%

Powered by PURISOME® FlexVes™ Liposome TechnologyPuriPharm Co., Ltd. · www.puriactives.com · service@puripharm.com

NanoActive™ Azelaic Acid 50%Powered by PURISOME® FlexVes™ Liposome TechnologyPuriPharm Co., Ltd. · www.puriactives.com · service@puripharm.com

NanoActive™ r-Retinoate

NanoActive™ r-Retinoate

A new-generation, high-performance vitamin A active

8×RETINOL POWERHigh efficacy at low concentration · High stability · Potential for high tolerabilityA new-generation hybrid retinoid INCI Retinyl Retinoate

PuriPharm Co. Ltd.

Source:Structure: PubChem CID 10303376. The 8× claim refers only to the low-concentration in vitro collagen synthesis experiment detailed in “8× Retinol-Level Collagen Performance.”

01 MOLECULAR DESIGN

The traditional vitamin A trade-off

Traditional vitamin A actives rarely combine activity, stability, and tolerability

Retinoid Core attribute Key limitation
Retinoic Acid High activity Higher irritation potential and greater restrictions on use
Retinol Gold standard Sensitive to light, heat, oxygen, and other factors
Retinyl Esters High stability Usually lower biological activity

High activity + High stability + High tolerability

What if one vitamin A molecule could offer all three?

Next: the hybrid retinoid architecture

Source:Kim H, Kim B, Kim H, et al. “Synthesis and in vitro biological activity of retinyl retinoate, a novel hybrid retinoid derivative.” Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry. 2008;16(12):6387–6393. DOI: 10.1016/j.bmc.2008.05.005.

01 MOLECULAR DESIGN

Hybrid Retinoid molecular architecture

One molecule combines the structural logic of two classic retinoids

RETINOL + RETINOIC ACID

Esterification forms RETINYL RETINOATE

No. Design logic
01 Block the Retinoic Acid carboxyl group
02 Preserve the key retinoid ring structure and polyene chain
03 Rebalance activity, stability, and tolerability

Source:Kim H, Kim B, Kim H, et al. “Synthesis and in vitro biological activity of retinyl retinoate, a novel hybrid retinoid derivative.” Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry. 2008;16(12):6387–6393. DOI: 10.1016/j.bmc.2008.05.005. Structure: PubChem CID 10303376.

01 MOLECULAR DESIGN

NanoActive™ r-Retinoate · Product overview

Core molecular information and market positioning

Item Information
Product NanoActive™ r-Retinoate
INCI name Retinyl Retinoate
Category Hybrid RetinoidVitamin A derivativeAnti-aging active
Molecular data Formula C₄₀H₅₆O₂Molecular weight 568.87CAS 15498-86-9
Absorption maximum λmax 333 nm; Retinol 323 nm

8× Retinol collagen performancePhotostable retinoidImproved thermal stabilityDirect retinoid bioactivityHyaluronan boostHigh efficacy at low concentrationSkin and scalp applicationsCompatible with nano-delivery

Source:PubChem CID 10303376; Kim H, Kim B, Kim H, et al. “Synthesis and in vitro biological activity of retinyl retinoate, a novel hybrid retinoid derivative.” Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry. 2008;16(12):6387–6393. DOI: 10.1016/j.bmc.2008.05.005. Appearance, active content, particle size, PDI, carrier composition, recommended use level, pH, addition temperature, and storage conditions must follow the latest PuriPharm TDS / SPEC / COA.

02 COLLAGEN PERFORMANCE

8× Retinol-level collagen performance

Approximately eight times the collagen synthesis response of Retinol at low concentration

8×Collagen biosynthesis at low concentration41.29% ÷ 4.94% ≈ 8.36× Retinol+4.94%Retinyl Retinoate+41.29%

Test concentration: 10⁻⁶% (w/v)

Lower concentration, more collagen

Source:*In an in vitro collagen synthesis experiment at 10⁻⁶% (w/v), Retinyl Retinoate increased collagen synthesis by 41.29%, versus 4.94% with Retinol, equivalent to approximately 8.36×. US7173062B2, “Method for the Improvement of Skin Wrinkles Using Retinyl Retinoate.” See also Kim H, Kim B, Kim H, et al. “Synthesis and in vitro biological activity of retinyl retinoate, a novel hybrid retinoid derivative.” Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry. 2008;16(12):6387–6393. DOI: 10.1016/j.bmc.2008.05.005.

02 COLLAGEN PERFORMANCE

Lower concentration, more collagen

Retinyl Retinoate shows strong collagen synthesis performance even at low concentrations

Concentration Retinoic Acid Retinol Retinyl Palmitate Retinyl Retinoate
0.1 μM 1% — — 1.5%
1 μM 14% 10% 2% 14%
10 μM 52% 42% 14% 48%

High efficacy at low concentration

Outperforms Retinol in the low-concentration range and approaches Retinoic Acid at some concentrations

Metric: increase in collagen synthesis (%)

Source:Kim H, Kim B, Kim H, et al. “Synthesis and in vitro biological activity of retinyl retinoate, a novel hybrid retinoid derivative.” Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry. 2008;16(12):6387–6393. DOI: 10.1016/j.bmc.2008.05.005. Redrawn from Figure 6. Bar values are visual readings from the axes and preserve the trend reported in the article.

02 COLLAGEN PERFORMANCE

A retinoid with direct biological activity

The molecule can display retinoid activity without first undergoing complete hydrolysis

Route Sequence Interpretation
Traditional Retinyl Ester Retinyl Ester → Retinol → Retinal → Retinoic Acid → RAR Requires multiple conversion steps before entering RAR signaling
Retinyl Retinoate Retinyl Retinoate → observed biological effect Direct retinoid activity

HPLC evidence

After two days of incubation with normal human skin fibroblasts, HPLC detected no new peaks corresponding to Retinol or Retinoic Acid.

The authors therefore attributed the observed biological activity to the molecule itself rather than simple hydrolysis.

Not an ordinary retinyl ester

Source:Kim H, Kim B, Kim H, et al. “Synthesis and in vitro biological activity of retinyl retinoate, a novel hybrid retinoid derivative.” Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry. 2008;16(12):6387–6393. DOI: 10.1016/j.bmc.2008.05.005.

02 COLLAGEN PERFORMANCE

Promotes synthesis and limits degradation

Bidirectional collagen management through RAR, AP-1, and collagen signaling

Photoaging cascade Direction associated with NanoActive™ r-Retinoate
UV / environmental stress → c-Jun / AP-1 ↑ → collagenase / MMP ↑ → collagen degradation → wrinkles Retinoid signaling / RAR → AP-1 / c-Jun ↓
Collagen degradation Promotes synthesis: Collagen Biosynthesis ↑
Increased collagenase / MMP Reduces degradation signals: Collagenase / MMP ↓

52%

Collagenase inhibition

Retinyl Retinoate > Retinol

Source:Kim H, Kim B, Kim H, et al. “Synthesis and in vitro biological activity of retinyl retinoate, a novel hybrid retinoid derivative.” Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry. 2008;16(12):6387–6393. DOI: 10.1016/j.bmc.2008.05.005. With RARα expression, collagenase expression was inhibited by approximately 33% with Retinol, 52% with Retinyl Retinoate, and 64% with Retinoic Acid; also supported by US7173062B2, “Method for the Improvement of Skin Wrinkles Using Retinyl Retinoate.”

03 STABILITY & TOLERABILITY

Designed for photostability

Retinoid performance that withstands light exposure

48 h

UVA photostability

The main structure retained markedly greater stability even after 48 hours of UVA exposure.

UVA: 356 nm; observations at 2, 12, 24, and 48 hours

Compound 0 h 2 h 12 h 24 h 48 h
Retinyl Retinoate Baseline Stable Stable Stable Only minor noise / no qualitative change
Retinol Baseline Clear degradation No longer reliably identified qualitatively No longer reliably identified qualitatively No longer reliably identified qualitatively

λmax: Retinol 323 nm; Retinyl Retinoate 333 nm

Source:Kim H, Kim B, Kim H, et al. “Synthesis and in vitro biological activity of retinyl retinoate, a novel hybrid retinoid derivative.” Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry. 2008;16(12):6387–6393. DOI: 10.1016/j.bmc.2008.05.005.; US7173062B2, “Method for the Improvement of Skin Wrinkles Using Retinyl Retinoate.” Photostability experiment: UVA 356 nm and qualitative ¹H NMR. “48 h” is the study duration, not a direct quantitative claim of percentage remaining.

03 STABILITY & TOLERABILITY

Stability beyond light exposure

Thermal stability was clearly better than Retinol after four weeks under accelerated conditions

Four-week condition Retinol remaining Retinyl Retinoate remaining
Room temperature 52.23% 89.21%
40°C 34.51% 68.23%
4°C 95.52% 99.65%

Improved thermal stabilityMore robust formulationsMore reliable retinoid performance

Source:US7173062B2, “Method for the Improvement of Skin Wrinkles Using Retinyl Retinoate.” Thermal stability experiment: HPLC quantification after four weeks at room temperature, 40°C, and 4°C.

03 STABILITY & TOLERABILITY

High performance with greater mildness

A wider cellular tolerance window and evidence from a human occlusive patch test

In vitro MTT IC₅₀
+60%IC₅₀ versus RetinolLower cytotoxicity in this in vitro model In vitro MTTIC₅₀Retinol25 μMRetinyl Retinoate40 μM
24 h human occlusive patch test Concentration Irritation index; lower is better
Retinol 0.075% 2.5
r-Retinoate 0.075% 1.3
r-Retinoate 0.30% 1.3
r-Retinoate 0.55% 1.3

High performance and low irritation in the same profile

Source:Kim H, Kim B, Kim H, et al. “Synthesis and in vitro biological activity of retinyl retinoate, a novel hybrid retinoid derivative.” Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry. 2008;16(12):6387–6393. DOI: 10.1016/j.bmc.2008.05.005. Normal human skin fibroblast MTT assay: IC₅₀ 40 μM versus 25 μM for Retinol. Human occlusive patch data: US7173062B2, “Method for the Improvement of Skin Wrinkles Using Retinyl Retinoate.”

04 BEYOND COLLAGEN

7.8× hyaluronan production

Extending from wrinkle care to hydration, plumpness, and barrier support

7.8×

Hyaluronan production

Primary human keratinocytes; 1 μM / 24 hRetinaldehyde ≈ 7.6× control

Mechanistic path Outcome
Retinyl Retinoate → HAS2 ↑ Hyaluronan ↑
Hyaluronan ↑ → CD44 interaction Hydration · ECM support · Homeostasis

Retinyl Retinoate upregulated HAS2 and increased CD44-related expression.

Source:Kim JE, Kim B, Kim H, et al. “Retinyl retinoate induces hyaluronan production and less irritation than other retinoids.” Journal of Dermatology. 2010;37(5):448–454. DOI: 10.1111/j.1346-8138.2010.00808.x. In primary human keratinocytes, Retinyl Retinoate at 1 μM for 24 h induced hyaluronan production to approximately 7.8 times the control level.

04 BEYOND COLLAGEN

High activity with less barrier disruption

Lower TEWL impact at the same 0.05% concentration

Retinoid Relative TEWL / barrier disruption ranking
Retinyl Retinoate Lowest
Retinol Low
Retinoic Acid High
Retinaldehyde High

7.8× hyaluronan production + lower TEWL disruption

A better balance of efficacy and tolerability

Source:Kim JE, Kim B, Kim H, et al. “Retinyl retinoate induces hyaluronan production and less irritation than other retinoids.” Journal of Dermatology. 2010;37(5):448–454. DOI: 10.1111/j.1346-8138.2010.00808.x. Hairless-mouse TEWL model with 0.05% comparative application. The ranking redraws the irritation order reported in the article.

05 CLINICAL EVIDENCE

Human evidence with a Retinol comparator

Uncommon direct human comparison against Retinol

0.06%Retinyl RetinoateSignificantly better than 0.075% Retinol 46Korean women · Periorbital wrinklesTwo randomized clinical studies
Study Duration and completers Intervention Frequency
Study 1 12 weeks; 24 completed 0.06% Retinyl Retinoate versus placebo Twice daily
Study 2 8 weeks; 22 completed 0.06% Retinyl Retinoate versus 0.075% Retinol Twice daily

Assessments: global photoaging score · photographs · skin replicas · Visiometer

Wrinkles improved significantly with Retinyl Retinoate versus placebo and Retinol.

Source:Kim H, Kim N, Jung S, et al. “Improvement in skin wrinkles from the use of photostable retinyl retinoate: a randomized controlled trial.” British Journal of Dermatology. 2010;162(3):497–502. DOI: 10.1111/j.1365-2133.2009.09483.x. Skin-replica analysis showed significant improvement, particularly in mean roughness.

05 CLINICAL EVIDENCE

22% greater improvement in maximum roughness

A 12-week double-blind randomized comparison versus 0.075% Retinol

Study design Information
+22%R2 maximum roughnessImprovement rate versus Retinol Study designInformationDesignProspective · Double-blind · Randomized · ControlledParticipants11 Korean women; 35–56 yearsDuration / frequency12 weeks; twice dailyComparison0.06% Retinyl Retinoate versus 0.075% RetinolAnalysisVisiometer R2; 12-week head-to-head comparison

Validated dimensions: fine-line reduction, elasticity, visual wrinkle grade, skin roughness, and dermal distance / intensity.

Source:Kim H, Koh J, Baek J, et al. “Retinyl retinoate, a novel hybrid vitamin derivative, improves photoaged skin: a double-blind, randomized-controlled trial.” Skin Research and Technology. 2011;17(3):380–385. DOI: 10.1111/j.1600-0846.2011.00512.x. At 12 weeks, the improvement rates for visual wrinkles and R2 maximum roughness were 22% higher than with Retinol.

05 CLINICAL EVIDENCE

Beyond anti-aging

Retinoid science for blemish-prone and oily skin

Protocol: 0.05% Retinyl Retinoate · 8 weeks · double-blind · vehicle-controlled · split-face; 15 women with mild-to-moderate acne.

Eight-week outcome Vehicle Retinyl Retinoate
Total lesion count −26.47% −38.58%
Inflammatory lesions −35.14% −43.62%
Non-inflammatory lesions −19.79% −33.98%

−27.18%

Forehead sebum

Baseline 104.86 μg/cm²; week 8: 76.36 μg/cm²

Blemish-prone skin careSebum balanceFollicular keratinization careClearer-looking skin

Source:Kim B, et al. “Retinyl Retinoate, a Retinoid Derivative Improves Acne Vulgaris in Double-blind, Vehicle-controlled Clinical Study.” Tissue Engineering and Regenerative Medicine. 2013;10(5):260–265. DOI: 10.1007/s13770-012-1088-z. Percentages are reductions in lesion counts after eight weeks; the change in sebum was statistically significant.

06 DELIVERY PLATFORM

Molecule × nano-delivery

Unlocking the full potential of r-Retinoate

Retinyl Retinoate is highly lipophilic, so formulation must solve several engineering challenges:

01 Dispersibility02 Stability03 Drug loading04 Skin delivery05 Controlled release

RETINYL RETINOATE + Nano-delivery

A performance-optimized retinoid delivery system

Published NLC feasibility evidence Value
Particle size 230–300 nm
PDI No value listed in the source slide
PRECIROL-NLC encapsulation efficiency 97.8%
COMPRITOL-NLC encapsulation efficiency 93.8%

These values describe a published NLC system and are not specifications for NanoActive™ r-Retinoate.

Source:Lee SG, Jeong JH, Kim SR, et al. “Topical formulation of retinyl retinoate employing nanostructured lipid carriers.” Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation. 2012;42(5):243–250. DOI: 10.1007/s40005-012-0036-1. Particle size, PDI, encapsulation efficiency, and carrier parameters for NanoActive™ itself must follow authentic PuriPharm TDS / SPEC / COA documents.

06 DELIVERY PLATFORM

Encapsulation amplifies delivery performance

Independent research shows that advanced delivery can further enhance Retinyl Retinoate

Form Exposure / penetration Delivery performance
Free RR Conventional exposure; limited penetration —
Encapsulated RR Improved penetration More efficient delivery; enhanced anti-wrinkle performance

Encapsulation → Improved penetration → More efficient delivery → Enhanced anti-wrinkle performance

+6.05%Visual wrinkle improvement +8.03%R2 maximum roughness

Source:Kim H, et al. “Novel anti-wrinkle effect of cosmeceutical product with new retinyl retinoate microsphere using biodegradable polymer.” Skin Research and Technology. 2012;18(1):70–76. DOI: 10.1111/j.1600-0846.2011.00533.x. Outcomes compare a 3% PLA–retinyl retinoate (2%) microsphere cream with a 0.06% Retinyl Retinoate cream over four weeks. Published PLA microsphere evidence does not represent NanoActive™ technology.

07 APPLICATIONS

From face to scalp

Advanced retinoid science for scalp care

SkinWrinkle careCollagen renewalHyaluronan boostFirmingRefined texturePhotoaging careBlemish-prone skinSebum balance ScalpScalp renewalSebum balanceFollicular keratinization careScalp anti-agingPilosebaceous unit careHealthy follicular environment

Retinoid signaling is present in hair follicles, sebaceous glands, and interfollicular epidermis, and participates in epithelial differentiation, sebaceous biology, and follicular keratinization.

Source:Mechanistic background: Everts HB, Sundberg JP, King LE Jr, Ong DE. “Immunolocalization of enzymes, binding proteins, and receptors sufficient for retinoic acid synthesis and signaling during the hair cycle.” Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 2007;127(7):1593–1604. DOI: 10.1038/sj.jid.5700753. Scalp positioning covers scalp health, anti-aging, oil control, and support for the follicular environment. No direct hair-growth claim should be made without product-specific clinical evidence.

07 APPLICATIONS

One retinoid, multiple performance dimensions

Eight efficacy dimensions create a complete premium active platform

No. Performance dimension
01 8× Collagen Performance
02 Wrinkle Reduction
03 Photostability
04 Thermal Stability
05 Hyaluronan Boost
06 Better Tolerance
07 Blemish & Sebum Care
08 Scalp Renewal

Source:The efficacy dimensions summarize the preceding evidence. Each quantitative claim retains its experimental model, comparator, concentration, and source in the corresponding section.

07 APPLICATIONS

Designed for the next generation of beauty innovation

Premium dual applications across skin and scalp

Skin carePremium anti-aging serumLine-smoothing serumEye serum / eye creamNight repairDay-and-night retinoid productsPhotoaging careFirming and elasticity productsHydrating anti-aging productsBlemish-prone skin careOily-skin serum Scalp and hair careScalp anti-aging essenceScalp anti-aging serumScalp renewal serumOily-scalp serumFollicular environment careLeave-on scalp carePremium scalp ampoule

Formats: serum · cream · lotion · ampoule · eye care · scalp serum · leave-on care

Source:Application guidance is conceptual and based on published Retinyl Retinoate evidence. Recommended use level, pH, addition temperature, solubility, compatibility, storage conditions, and finished-product stability for NanoActive™ r-Retinoate must follow official PuriPharm TDS / SPEC / COA documents. No product-specific parameters are inferred here.

CLOSING

NanoActive™ r-Retinoate

Higher performance at a lower concentration. Redefining next-generation vitamin A anti-aging technology.

8× collagen performancePhotostabilityClinically evaluatedHyaluronan boostNano-delivery

A new-generation, high-performance vitamin A active

PuriPharm Co. Ltd.

Source:*“8× Retinol Power” is a marketing shorthand for an approximately 8.36-fold difference in low-concentration in vitro collagen synthesis performance: 41.29% versus 4.94% at 10⁻⁶% w/v. Source: US7173062B2. It does not mean 8× RAR activation, 8× human wrinkle reduction, 8× lower irritation, or 8× performance across all biological endpoints.

Clinical Evidence Review of the Dermatological Benefits of Retinal

CLINICAL EFFICACY EVIDENCE REVIEW

Clinical Evidence Review of Retinal (Retinaldehyde) for Skin Benefits

NanoActive® RAL nano-encapsulated retinal · Focus on pore improvement and anti-wrinkle efficacy · Peer-reviewed literature + proprietary Intertek human efficacy data

KEY NUMBERS

More than 30 years of clinical evidence focused on pores and wrinkles

Evidence base Randomized trials Wrinkle improvement Pore improvement
19 human clinical studies1994–2026 6+ RCTs −43.2%wrinkle-count improvement in 28 days with liposomal RAL +20%pore improvement after 8 weeks with a 0.1% retinal serum

Evidence focus

Required focus: pore appearance · wrinkle reductionAdditional benefits: skin texture · elasticity/firmness · pigment evenness · barrier/TEWL · redness · tolerability and safety

PuriPharm Co., Ltd. · Compiled from RCTs and international peer-reviewed journals, prioritizing US/global evidence · September 2026

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

More than three decades of peer-reviewed evidence support the skin benefits of retinal

Retinal (retinaldehyde) is the immediate metabolic precursor of retinoic acid. More than 30 years of peer-reviewed human evidence span international journals including J Am Acad Dermatol, Dermatology, J Cosmet Dermatol, J Drugs Dermatol (US), and Dermatol Ther.

  • Wrinkles: ≥10 human studies of 0.05–0.1% RAL, ranging from a 7.6% reduction in crow’s-feet depth at 8 weeks (RCT; comparable with glycolic-acid peels) to 27–34% reductions in wrinkle scores at 90 days in the largest cohort (n=1,462).
  • Pores: A 2024 US JDD study reported a 20% improvement in pore appearance after 8 weeks with a 0.1% retinal serum (P<0.0001). A nanovesicular RAL study showed a 23.6% reduction in sebum after 4 weeks and significant reductions in open and closed comedones—the mechanistic basis for improved pore appearance.
  • Liposomal / nano-encapsulated delivery: Human studies across four delivery technologies—multilamellar vesicles, liposomes, niosomes, and exosomes—reported efficacy comparable or superior to non-encapsulated comparators with good tolerability. In a proprietary 4-week Intertek human test of NanoActive® RAL serum (n=30), crow’s-feet count decreased 31.0%, forehead-wrinkle count decreased 27.7%, and skin-tone ITA° increased 12.0% (all P<0.001), with no adverse events.

Concentration window

All pivotal human studies were conducted at 0.05–0.1%: Creidi 1998 (0.05%); Kwon 2018 (0.05% vs 0.1%); Rouvrais 2018 / JDD 2024 / liposomal 3RC (0.1%); and encapsulated-delivery trials (0.05% and 0.1%).

A 24-week split-face study in 2026 found significant wrinkle improvement with 0.1% in facial areas where 0.05% did not reach significance. In Kwon 2018, only the 0.1% group showed a significant decline in melanin index.

Formulation recommendation: 0.05% for sensitive-skin or daily-use positioning; 0.1% to maximize wrinkle and tone-evening benefits. NanoActive® RAL nano-encapsulated retinal covers this concentration window.

Sources: Creidi 1998 (PMID 9843009); Cordero 2011 (PMID 21649816); Rouvrais 2018 (PMID 30027612); JDD 2024 (PMID 39496127); Kim 2021 (PMID 34587353); Brown 2023 (Springer 10.1007/s13555-023-01004-z)

INGREDIENT POSITIONING

Where retinal sits in the retinoid metabolic pathway

Retinyl esters Retinol Retinaldehyde Retinoic acid
Retinyl esters Retinoltwo oxidation steps Retinaldehydeone oxidation step → active acid Retinoic acidreceptor-active

Retinal is only one enzymatic oxidation step from the receptor-active form, retinoic acid, whereas retinol requires two. Retinal therefore combines high biological activity with substantially better tolerability than retinoic acid—a position confirmed in head-to-head clinical studies and authoritative reviews.

Keratinocytes convert retinal to retinoic acid only at specific stages of differentiation, creating a more controlled, self-limiting supply of active acid. This is the biological basis of its lower irritation potential. Retinal also has direct activity against Cutibacterium acnes, attributable to its aldehyde group—an effect not shared by retinol or retinoic acid.

Sources: Saurat 1994 (PMID 7798613); Fluhr 1999 (PMID 10473963); Milosheska & Roškar 2022 (Adv Ther); Pechère 2002 (Dermatology)

EVIDENCE LANDSCAPE

1994–2026: an evidence base led by European, US, and international studies

Figure 1. Human clinical evidence landscape. Bubble size represents sample size on a logarithmic scale; color indicates study region. Two South Korean RCTs provide rare controlled evidence for encapsulated vesicular delivery.

Source: 19 human studies (1994–2026) summarized in Table 1 of the report

ANTI-WRINKLE · FOUNDATIONAL RCT

Creidi 1998: the foundational randomized trial of retinal for wrinkles

  • Design: randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled, full-face study; n=125 participants with facial photodamage; 44 weeks.
  • Groups: 0.05% retinaldehyde cream vs 0.05% retinoic-acid cream vs vehicle. Silicone replicas of crow’s feet were assessed by optical profilometry.
  • Results: At week 18, retinaldehyde and retinoic acid significantly reduced wrinkle and roughness features; the vehicle produced no statistically significant change. Benefits were maintained through week 44.
  • Tolerability: Retinaldehyde was well tolerated throughout; retinoic acid caused more local irritation and reduced adherence.

Why this study is foundational

It established the core positioning of retinaldehyde as providing efficacy comparable with retinoic acid but substantially better tolerability. Nearly all subsequent cosmetic-retinoid reviews cite this study, and its 18-week onset window became a benchmark for later study durations, including liposomal RAL programs. Objective endpoints—optical profilometry and silicone replicas—provide quantifiable, reproducible claim support.

Source: Creidi et al. 1998, J Am Acad Dermatol (PMID 9843009)

ANTI-WRINKLE · LARGE-SAMPLE AND LONG-TERM EVIDENCE

Large cohorts and long-duration studies confirm wrinkle and structural improvements

Study Design / sample Duration Key anti-wrinkle results
Cordero 2011J Cosmet Dermatol · international multicenter Open-label, n=1,462 90 days Crow’s feet −27%; perioral −34%; nasolabial folds −20%; forehead −19% (all P<0.001; profilometry confirmed); elasticity +32–33%
Deda 2026Poland · double-blind split-face n=56; age 30–58 24 weeks 0.1% RAL significantly improved wrinkle parameters (0.05% did not reach significance); dermal density by 50-MHz ultrasound improved comprehensively, suggesting neocollagenesis; elasticity R2 +11.6–12.8%
Rouvrais 2018France · RCT vs glycolic-acid peels n=55 8 weeks Crow’s-feet depth −7.61% (P=.0007), comparable with three professional peels (20%/50%/70%); texture improvement significantly favored RAL (between-group P=.0252); 12-fold fewer adverse signs

Cumulative long-term benefit

Deda 2026 is currently the longest split-face controlled retinal study. It provides instrument-based evidence of cumulative benefit, with dermal density continuing to rise between weeks 12 and 24.

Sources: Cordero 2011 (PMID 21649816); Deda 2026 (PMC12928007); Rouvrais 2018 (PMID 30027612)

ANTI-WRINKLE · ENCAPSULATED RETINAL

Human anti-wrinkle evidence for encapsulated delivery

−43.2%

28-day improvement in wrinkle count with liposomal RAL 0.1% + retinoid (P<0.001)

Brown 2023 · Dermatol Ther (Spain/Europe)Among 32 participants, including those with sensitive skin, crow’s-feet wrinkle count decreased in 100%; elasticity improved 13.9%, firmness 5.6%, and skin-tone evenness 7.0%, without a retinization period.

Kim 2021 · split-face RCT (South Korea; identified)Multilamellar-vesicle retinal (MLV-RAL) 0.05%/0.1% creams were compared with retinol at matched concentrations. After 8 weeks, wrinkle depth (Antera 3D), hydration, elasticity, and facial contour improved significantly; the MLV-RAL side outperformed the retinol side on every objective measure except dermal density. Neither side had adverse events.

Gold 2026 · J Cosmet Dermatol (US)Twenty women (Fitzpatrick I–VI) used exosome-encapsulated retinal for 12 weeks. Wrinkles/fine lines, erythema, tone, and texture improved significantly from week 2; 100% showed global facial aesthetic improvement at weeks 8 and 12, with no product-related adverse events.

Truchuelo-Díez 2026 · double-blind RCT (Spain)A combination of RAL 0.05% + retinol 0.3% significantly reduced wrinkle depth by day 28 and wrinkle amplitude at study end. Retinol 0.5% alone showed only a trend, indicating that low-dose retinal enabled efficacy approaching that of nearly twice the retinol concentration.

Sources: Brown 2023 (Springer 10.1007/s13555-023-01004-z); Kim 2021 (PMID 33569865); Gold 2026 (PMID 41735774); Truchuelo-Díez 2026 (MDPI 2079-9284/13/3/133)

PORE IMPROVEMENT · DIRECT ENDPOINT

A US clinical study directly documented improvement in pore appearance

+20%

Improvement in pore appearance after 8 weeks with a 0.1% retinal serum (P<0.0001)

JDD 2024 · J Drugs Dermatol (US)Thirty-two women—47% with skin of color and 57% with sensitive skin—applied the product to the face, neck, and chest three nights per week. Concurrent improvements were 12% for facial fine lines, 19% for chest fine lines, 19% for hyperpigmentation, and 5% for texture. Patch testing showed no sensitization or irritation.

Claim-use caveat

This was a single-arm, multicomponent finished-product study without a vehicle control. It therefore supports the statement that “a 0.1% retinal formulation improved pore appearance by 20% in 8 weeks,” not independent attribution to a single ingredient. In technical dossiers, it should be cited as third-party clinical background for the ingredient category and concentration.

Why it is useful for global marketing

The US setting, expert grading plus instrumental measurement, and inclusion of people with sensitive skin and skin of color make its demographics relevant to global markets.

Connection to mechanism

Visible enlarged pores are driven mainly by sebum output and follicular keratinization/plugging. The following nanovesicular RAL study provides mechanistic support for this direct endpoint.

This is the strongest single reference for a pore claim involving a 0.1% retinal product: US-based, peer reviewed, and inclusive of sensitive skin and skin of color.

Source: J Drugs Dermatol 2024 (PMID 39496127)

PORE IMPROVEMENT · MECHANISTIC BASIS

Nano-encapsulated RAL reduces sebum and comedones—the mechanistic chain for pore improvement

−23.6%

Decrease in sebum after 4 weeks with 0.05% RAL nanovesicles (Sebumeter)

Kim 2021 · J Cosmet Dermatol (South Korea; identified)Twenty-three participants with mild-to-moderate acne were studied for 4 weeks. Closed and open comedones decreased significantly at weeks 2 and 4 (P<0.05); sebum fell from 327.95 to 250.65 μg/cm²; scaling index declined; and no irritation occurred. Follicle-penetrating vesicles delivered RAL to the pilosebaceous unit—the anatomical site where comedones and enlarged pores arise.

International comedolytic evidence from France

Morel 1999 (Clin Exp Dermatol; multicenter RCT, n=74): 0.1% RAL gel + 4% erythromycin significantly improved comedones and microcysts (P=0.005), with excellent local tolerability.

Poli 2005 (Dermatology; double-blind, vehicle-controlled, multicenter): 0.1% RAL / 6% glycolic acid significantly reduced papules, pustules, and comedones from month 1; at month 3, overall improvement was about twice that with vehicle (86.1% vs 58.8%).

Retinoid-class corroboration: A tazarotene 0.1% RCT (n=563) showed significantly better pore-size outcomes than vehicle at week 12. A 2025 network meta-analysis of 23 RCTs / 3,905 participants confirmed that topical retinoids significantly improve fine lines, providing the highest evidence tier for the pathway.

Claim linkage: Comedone clearance and normalization of follicular keratinization are recognized routes to visibly smaller pores; the RAL-specific data above provide direct support.

Sources: Kim 2021 (PMID 34587353); Morel 1999 (PMID 10564319); Poli 2005 (PMID 15724103); Lin 2025 (PMID 40707570)

QUANTITATIVE SUMMARY

Magnitude of efficacy improvements reported across studies

Figure 2. Improvements from baseline reported in human clinical studies. Gold = pore/sebum endpoints (required focus); navy = wrinkle/texture/pigment/elasticity endpoints.

Sources: Brown 2023; Cordero 2011, Kim 2021, Kwon 2018, Rouvrais 2018 (J Cosmet Dermatol); J Drugs Dermatol 2024

ADDITIONAL EFFICACY EVIDENCE

Texture · elasticity · pigmentation · redness · tolerability

Skin texture and roughness

Kwon 2018 (double-blind RCT, South Korea): texture improved 13.7% with 0.1% and 12.6% with 0.05%, measured by Antera 3D. Rouvrais 2018: 0.1% RAL cream improved texture more than professional glycolic-acid peels (between-group P=.0252).

Elasticity / firmness / dermal density

Diridollou 1999: epidermal thickness and skin elasticity increased significantly (P<0.01). Deda 2026: comprehensive gains in dermal density and elasticity R2 +11.6–12.8% at 24 weeks. Brown 2023: elasticity +13.9% and firmness +5.6% in 28 days.

Hyperpigmentation and tone evenness

Kwon 2018: melanin index declined significantly only in the 0.1% group (−6.5%). JDD 2024 (US): hyperpigmentation improved 19% (P<0.0001; 47% skin of color). Cordero 2011: pigmentation scores decreased 31–34% over 90 days.

Redness and rosacea-prone skin

Vienne & Ochando 1999 (Dermatology): redness and swelling decreased in 75% of 23 participants with rosacea. Gold 2026: erythema improved significantly from week 2. Differentiated positioning: “a retinoid suitable for sensitive, redness-prone skin.”

Tolerability and safety

Fluhr 1999 (n≈355): retinoic acid caused significantly more erythema/scaling than retinaldehyde, whose irritation approached placebo levels. Sachsenberg-Studer 1999 (n=357) confirmed tolerability and absence of phototoxicity. Recent studies reported zero adverse events in the MLV-RAL RCT; Deda 2026 observed irritation in only 1/56 and no thinning of the stratum corneum.

Activity against C. acnes

Pechère 2002 (Dermatology): retinaldehyde showed direct antibacterial activity against C. acnes, attributable to its aldehyde group; retinol and retinoic acid did not. This provides supplementary mechanistic support for the pore/comedone narrative.

Sources: Kwon 2018; Diridollou 1999; JDD 2024; Vienne & Ochando 1999; Fluhr 1999 (PMID 10473963); Pechère 2002

DELIVERY-SYSTEM RATIONALE

Why retinal benefits from liposomal / nano-encapsulated delivery

Retinal is intrinsically photolabile and readily oxidized, making stability and controlled release central formulation challenges. Authoritative reviews state that nanoformulations—liposomes, multilamellar vesicles, niosomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, and nanostructured lipid carriers—can simultaneously improve retinoid stability, skin penetration, and irritation profiles.

Human evidence for encapsulated retinal spans four delivery technologies: multilamellar vesicles (Kim 2021), liposomes (Brown 2023), niosomes (Kim 2021), and biomimetic exosomes (Gold 2026). All reported efficacy comparable or superior to non-encapsulated comparators with good tolerability.

Preclinical delivery data

  • Pisetpackdeekul 2016 (Int J Nanomedicine): chitosan-grafted “pro-retinaldehyde” nanoparticles improved stability, enabled sustained release, and reduced irritation. In a split-face comparison, 0.025% retinaldehyde nanoparticle hydrogel outperformed 0.025% tretinoin hydrogel on texture parameters in aged skin.
  • Limcharoen 2020 (ACS Biomater Sci Eng): the same platform achieved sustained delivery, epidermal proliferation/differentiation activity, and follicular penetration.
  • Nayak 2018 (J Drug Targeting): a nanostructured lipid carrier co-loading coenzyme Q10 and 0.05% retinaldehyde produced significant in-vivo anti-wrinkle effects with a better safety profile.

Follicular penetration directly supports pore positioning: vesicular carriers deliver retinal to the pilosebaceous unit, where comedones and enlarged pores arise. PuriPharm NanoActive® RAL was developed using this nano-encapsulated retinal approach and directly builds on the human and preclinical delivery evidence above.

Sources: Milosheska & Roškar 2022 (Adv Ther); Zhong 2024 (J Cosmet Dermatol 10.1111/jocd.16415); Pisetpackdeekul 2016; Limcharoen 2020; Nayak 2018

PROPRIETARY EFFICACY VALIDATION

Four-week human efficacy test of NanoActive® RAL serum

Sponsor: Huzhou PuriPharm Biomedical Technology Co., Ltd. · Testing laboratory: Intertek (Shanghai; report CRS-2020-PR-01) · Product: nano-encapsulated retinal serum · Single-center, open-label, before-and-after study · All 30 participants completed (Chinese women; mean age 49.0, range 38–55) · Whole-face use twice daily for 4 weeks · Instruments: PRIMOS 3D wrinkle analysis and Skin-Colorimeter CL400 · No adverse events

Instrumental results (baseline W0 → week 4 W4)

Site / instrument Parameter W0 mean W4 mean Improvement P value
Crow’s feet (PRIMOS) Count 273.87 188.83 −31.05% <0.001***
Area (%) 18.16 15.90 −12.45% <0.001***
Length (μm) 218.20 191.77 −12.11% <0.001***
Forehead wrinkles (PRIMOS) Count 360.87 261.00 −27.67% <0.001***
Area (%) 18.54 16.32 −11.98% <0.001***
Length (μm) 311.90 288.07 −7.64% <0.001***
Skin tone (CL400) L* value 59.10 60.63 +2.59% <0.001***
ITA° value 31.35 35.11 +12.02% <0.001***

Participant self-assessment (n=30)

  • Overall satisfaction 96.7%
  • Firmer, more elastic skin 93.3%
  • Brighter tone / improved radiance 93.3%
  • Gentle and non-irritating 93.3%
  • Finer, smoother skin 90.0%
  • Improved under-eye fine lines 90.0%
  • Whitening effect 83.3%

Source: Intertek test report CRS-2020-PR-01 (2020-10-30); all instrumental improvements P<0.001 (***); sponsor: Huzhou PuriPharm Biomedical Technology Co., Ltd.

CORE EVIDENCE TABLE

Core human clinical evidence table (selected studies; full version in report Table 1)

Study (journal) Design n Region RAL concentration Key efficacy result
Creidi 1998, JAAD Double-blind RCT 125 France 0.05% Significant improvement in wrinkles/roughness by profilometry from week 18; better tolerability than retinoic acid
Cordero 2011, J Cosmet Dermatol Open multicenter 1,462 International 0.05% Crow’s feet −27%; perioral −34%; elasticity +32–33% at 90 days
Rouvrais 2018, J Cosmet Dermatol RCT vs peels 55 France 0.1% Crow’s-feet depth −7.61% at 8 weeks; comparable with glycolic peels; superior texture outcome
Brown 2023, Dermatol Ther Clinical + in vitro 32 Spain/EU Liposomal 0.1% Wrinkle count −43.2% at 28 days; crow’s feet decreased in 100%
JDD 2024, J Drugs Dermatol Open instrumental 32 US 0.1% Pores +20% (P<0.0001) at 8 weeks; fine lines +12%; pigmentation +19%
Deda 2026, J Cosmet Dermatol-indexed Double-blind split-face 56 Poland 0.1% vs 0.05% Significant wrinkle improvement with 0.1%; comprehensive rise in dermal density at 24 weeks

Six representative studies are shown. The complete 19-study evidence table—including labels for Korean studies, multicomponent finished products (†), and tolerability—appears in Section 7 of the report.

All studies were published in peer-reviewed international journals; PMID / DOI links are provided in the report.

CLAIM RECOMMENDATIONS

Evidence-supported cosmetic claim language

Claim area Suggested cosmetic-compliant wording Supporting evidence
Anti-wrinkle Helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles ≥10 human studies, including 4+ RCTs; Creidi 1998, Rouvrais 2018, Brown 2023; proprietary 4-week Intertek study (crow’s feet −31.0%)
Pore refinement Visibly improves the appearance of pores; helps reduce excess sebum and unclog pores JDD 2024 (direct endpoint); Kim 2021 niosome; Morel 1999 / Poli 2005 (comedones)
Texture / elasticity / even tone Improves skin texture and firmness; helps promote a more even-looking skin tone Kwon 2018, Diridollou 1999, Cordero 2011, JDD 2024
Redness / sensitive skin Suitable for sensitive and redness-prone skin Vienne & Ochando 1999; Gold 2026; Fluhr 1999 (tolerability)

Application note

All studies used finished products containing 0.05–0.1% retinal. NanoActive® RAL falls within this window. Claim validation should reuse instrumental endpoints from the cited trials, such as Antera 3D and Sebumeter.

Full sources and qualifying conditions for each claim are provided in Section 8 of the report.

COMPLIANCE AND LIMITATIONS

Considerations when using this evidence package

  • Multicomponent finished-product studies (marked † in the report): Some high-value studies tested multicomponent finished products. Their results support the ingredient category and concentration, not independent attribution to a specific raw material. Cite them as third-party technical background and state that in-vitro data do not represent finished-product clinical efficacy.
  • Acne-treatment language: Treatment claims in trials by Morel, Poli, Dréno, and others must be softened in cosmetic jurisdictions to language such as “blemish-prone skin” and “helps unclog pores.”
  • South Korean studies: Two Korean studies are clearly identified. If a client requires non-Asian evidence only, French, Polish, Spanish, and US studies still form a complete anti-wrinkle and pore narrative in the core evidence table.
  • Positioning of proprietary data: The 4-week Intertek test of NanoActive® RAL serum (n=30) was a single-center, open-label, before-and-after study and can serve as proof of concept for finished-product efficacy. For a higher evidence grade, upgrade to a randomized, controlled, 8–12-week instrumental study using Antera 3D + Sebumeter + Cutometer. The Deda 2026 and JDD 2024 protocols provide publication-grade templates that can be reused.

Detailed compliance language and disclaimers are provided in Section 8 and in the final statement of the report.

CONCLUSION

Retinal: more than 30 years of clinical evidence focused on pore improvement and anti-wrinkle efficacy

  • Anti-wrinkle: ≥10 human studies and 4+ RCTs, fully covering the 0.05–0.1% concentration window.
  • Pores: A direct US JDD 2024 endpoint (+20% at 8 weeks), supported by mechanistic evidence for reduced sebum and comedones with nanovesicles.
  • Encapsulated delivery: Human studies across four carrier technologies show comparable or superior efficacy with good tolerability.
  • Proprietary validation: In a 4-week Intertek test of NanoActive® RAL serum (n=30), crow’s-feet count fell 31.0%, forehead-wrinkle count 27.7%, and ITA° increased 12.0% (all P<0.001), with no adverse events.

PuriPharm Co., Ltd. · NanoActive® RAL nano-encapsulated retinal · PuriActives® efficacy ingredient seriesThis material is a scientific literature compilation supporting cosmetic-ingredient development. It summarizes third-party published research for technical reference only and does not constitute proprietary clinical data, medical advice, or evidence for medicinal claims. Clients should verify the applicability of every claim and citation under the regulations of their target markets.

© 2026 PuriPharm Co., Ltd. · Retinal Clinical Efficacy Evidence Review

NanoActive™Retinal – Bakuchiol 纳米包裹视黄醛-补骨脂酚

NanoActive™Retinal – Bakuchiol

Nano-Encapsulated Retinal–Bakuchiol

Dual-Pathway Retinoid Renewal · Nano-Delivery Technology

INCI NAME — RETINAL, BAKUCHIOL

PuriPharm Co. Ltd. · Technical Marketing Presentation

02 · RETINOID CARE — THE NEXT CHAPTER

Retinoid Care Is Entering Its Next Stage

Retinoids remain the most evidence-supported active family for managing skin photoaging. The questions facing brands and formulators have moved beyond whether a formula contains a retinoid to four more fundamental issues: Can the active be converted efficiently? Can it remain stable? Can consumers sustain long-term use? Does the formula provide sufficient design freedom?

Core question Explanation
01 Efficacy Retinoids must be converted to retinoic acid to act; the conversion pathway determines the speed and intensity of activity.
02 Stability High activity comes with sensitivity to light and oxygen; active retention during shelf life and in-formula is essential.
03 Tolerance Irritation determines adherence, and adherence determines whether long-term benefits can be realized.
04 Formulation Dosage form, sensory profile and system compatibility define the space for product differentiation.

The next-stage answer: advanced actives × complementary mechanisms × nano delivery.

03 · PRODUCT OVERVIEW

NanoActive™ Retinal-Bakuchiol

Identity Information
Product name Nano-Encapsulated Retinal–Bakuchiol
INCI name Retinal, Bakuchiol
Technology platform NanoActive™ nano-encapsulation and delivery system
Application settings Dual use across skin care and scalp care
01 Biology: Retinal is the direct precursor of retinoic acid; one oxidation step drives advanced retinoid biology.
02 Synergy: Bakuchiol supports retinol-like gene expression, antioxidant defense, inflammatory modulation, extracellular-matrix biology and skin homeostasis.
03 Delivery: NanoActive™ improves protection, dispersion, formulation suitability and delivery performance for sensitive actives.

This is not a simple ingredient blend. It is a next-generation dual-pathway renewal platform integrating high-efficiency renewal, complementary mechanisms, nano delivery and both skin and scalp applications.

04 · 01 · BIOLOGY — RETINAL

Why Retinal: Closer to the Active EndpointRetinyl esters → Retinol → Retinal → Retinoic acid

Metabolic node Description
Retinyl esters Storage form; hydrolyzed to retinol.
Retinol Requires a rate-limiting oxidation step to form retinal.
Retinal An advanced cosmetic retinoid that requires only one oxidation step to form retinoic acid.
Retinoic acid The active retinoid endpoint; a drug active not permitted as a cosmetic ingredient.
Key advantage Data and significance
Approximately 3× biological activity Bypassing retinol’s first rate-limiting oxidation step gives retinal approximately three times the retinoid biological activity of retinol.
At least 11× faster conversion Conversion of retinal to retinoic acid is estimated to be more than 11 times faster than the retinol pathway and occurs in both differentiated and undifferentiated keratinocytes.

Retinal is the direct precursor of retinoic acid—an advanced retinoid positioned closer to the active endpoint.

Siegenthaler G, Saurat JH, Ponec M. Biochem J. 1990;268(2):371–378. | Brown A, et al. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb). 2023;13(10):2299–2317.

05 · 01 · BIOLOGY — ADVANCED RETINOID BIOLOGY

One Oxidation Step Directly Drives Classical Retinoid SignalingRetinal → one-step oxidation → retinoic acid → RAR/RXR nuclear receptors → target-gene transcription → visible epidermal and dermal renewal

01 Retinal undergoes one oxidation step inside keratinocytes to form retinoic acid.
02 Retinoic acid binds nuclear RAR receptors and forms heterodimers with RXR.
03 RAR-RXR binds promoter regions and regulates target genes involved in skin biology.
04 The result is visible renewal across both the epidermis and dermis.
Level Biological effects
Epidermis Accelerated epidermal renewal; regulation of keratinocyte differentiation; increased epidermal thickness; upregulation of RA-activity markers such as CRABP-II; regulation of barrier- and hydration-related genes; improved desquamation, texture refinement and tone uniformity.
Dermis Support for fibroblast function and extracellular-matrix remodeling; new collagen deposition; inhibition of UV-induced MMP-related matrix degradation; restoration of the elastic-fiber network; visible outcomes in wrinkles, texture, laxity and photoaging pigmentation.

A complete retinoid-biology pathway drives systematic renewal from the epidermis to the dermis.

Saurat JH, et al. J Invest Dermatol. 1994;103(6):770–774. | Fisher GJ, et al. Nature. 1996;379(6563):335–339. | Xiao JH, et al. J Biol Chem. 1995;270(7):3001–3010.

06 · 01 · BIOLOGY — EPIDERMIS TO DERMIS

Retinal: From Epidermal Renewal to Dermal RemodelingEpidermis: renewal, differentiation, thickness and texture; Dermis: fibroblasts, collagen, elastic fibers, ECM and MMP management

Evidence Finding
Human study: epidermis and elasticity After one year of 0.05% retinaldehyde, high-resolution ultrasound and rheological measurements showed significant increases in epidermal thickness and skin elasticity (p < 0.01), with a trend toward increased dermal thickness.
Ex vivo: repair of UVA damage In a UVA-photodamaged human skin model, two weeks of 0.05% retinaldehyde restored elastic fibers and collagen to levels close to non-photodamaged skin.
Biological effects in human skin Topical retinaldehyde induced typical retinoid effects, including epidermal thickening and CRABP-II expression, while maintaining good tolerance.

Metabolic position → retinoid biology → epidermal renewal → ECM/collagen/elastin support → visible human outcomes: one complete evidence chain.

Diridollou S, et al. Dermatology. 1999;199(Suppl 1):37–41. | Boisnic S, et al. Dermatology. 1999;199(Suppl 1):43–48. | Saurat JH, et al. J Invest Dermatol. 1994;103(6):770–774.

07 · 01 · CLINICAL EVIDENCE — PHOTOAGING

Human Photoaging: Improvement Comparable to Retinoic Acid

Study design Details
Randomized controlled study n=125; 18 weeks; optical profilometry; 0.05% retinaldehyde (n=40) versus 0.05% retinoic acid (n=40) versus vehicle (n=45).
Dimension Result
Efficacy: comparable Both actives significantly reduced wrinkles and skin roughness; no statistically significant efficacy difference was observed between retinaldehyde and retinoic acid. An open study (n=32, four months) also found clear reductions in surface roughness and coarse wrinkles.
Tolerance: better Local irritation was more frequent with retinoic acid and affected adherence. Retinaldehyde caused fewer local adverse reactions and supported better long-term adherence. Comparable efficacy plus better tolerance forms retinal’s core value proposition.

In photoaged human skin, 0.05% retinaldehyde delivered wrinkle and roughness improvements comparable to 0.05% retinoic acid while maintaining significantly better local tolerance.

Creidi P, et al. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1998;39(6):960–965. | Creidi P, Humbert P. Dermatology. 1999;199(Suppl 1):49–52. | Mukherjee S, et al. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327–348.

08 · 01 · CLINICAL EVIDENCE — LONG-TERM

Elasticity, Skin Thickness and Long-Term Performance

One-Year Instrumental Study: 0.05% Retinaldehyde

n=21 in the retinaldehyde group versus n=19 in the emollient-control group; high-resolution ultrasound plus echorheometry; measurements at baseline and one year.

01 Temporal epidermal thickness increased significantly versus control (p < 0.01).
02 Skin elasticity improved significantly versus control using suction rheology (p < 0.01).
03 Dermal thickness showed an increasing trend, while skin stiffness showed a decreasing trend.
04 Tolerance remained good throughout, supporting long-term daily use.

Increase in Dermal Thickness with a Non-Ablative Laser Regimen

Randomized double-blind study (n=16); 0.05% retinaldehyde versus vehicle for three months.

Diridollou S, et al. Dermatology. 1999;199(Suppl 1):37–41. | Mordon data cited in Mukherjee S, et al. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327–348.

09 · 01 · TOLERANCE PROFILE

High Activity Does Not Have to Mean High Irritation

In long-term clinical use, all three reaction rates were significantly lower with retinaldehyde; between-group analysis p < 0.0001.

Setting Finding
Maximized conditions Retinol and retinaldehyde showed similarly low irritation potential, while retinoic acid was significantly more irritating (p < 0.05). Laser Doppler confirmed an irritant effect for RA but not for ROL/RAL (p = 0.001).
Long-term clinical conditions Retinaldehyde demonstrated clear retinoid biological activity, while rates of erythema, scaling and burning/pruritus were significantly lower than with retinoic acid.
Product implication Efficacy and user experience can coexist, supporting sustained use and repurchase in premium retinoid products.

Fluhr JW, et al. Dermatology. 1999;199(Suppl 1):57–60. | Sachsenberg-Studer EM. Dermatology. 1999;199(Suppl 1):61–63.

10 · 02 · SYNERGY — BAKUCHIOL

Why Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol is a plant-derived molecule with retinol-like gene-expression effects and multi-pathway skin activity. It is more than a natural retinol alternative; it represents an independent multi-pathway biology.

Feature Description
Source and class Derived from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia; a meroterpene phenol.
Structure and function Chemically dissimilar to retinoids but functionally analogous to retinol.
Mechanism Does not directly engage the RAR receptor pathway, helping explain its gentler tolerance profile.
Use pattern No reported photosensitivity; suitable for morning and evening use.

Retinol-like gene expression, collagen and ECM support, antioxidant defense, inflammatory-signal modulation, skin homeostasis and barrier support, and pigment management

Antioxidant defense × inflammatory modulation × ECM support × homeostasis maintenance form a second renewal pathway beyond retinal.

Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014;36(3):221–230.

11 · 02 · SYNERGY — GENE EXPRESSION & COLLAGEN

Bakuchiol: Retinol-Like Gene Expression × ECM Support

Evidence dimension Finding
Collagen expression Human dermal fibroblast model; ELISA; untreated control set at 100%; 10 μg/mL. Bakuchiol exceeded retinol for Collagen I and IV expression and was comparable for Collagen III.
Gene-expression profile DNA microarray analysis in a full-thickness reconstructed skin model showed highly similar overall regulation by bakuchiol and retinol, including upregulation of COL1A2, COL4A6, COL9A2, COL17A1, HAS3 and hydration-related AQP3.
Non-classical RA pathway No effect on RA receptor genes such as RARB and RARG, suggesting action through non-classical retinoic-acid signaling and supporting a gentler irritation profile.
12-week human study 0.5% bakuchiol significantly improved fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, firmness and overall photodamage without the adverse effects commonly associated with retinol therapy.

Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014;36(3):221–230. | Brown A, et al. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb). 2023;13(10):2299–2317.

12 · 02 · BAKUCHIOL — HUMAN EVIDENCE

Comparable Efficacy to 0.5% Retinol with Better Tolerance

Study design: prospective, randomized, double-blind study; n=44; 12 weeks; 0.5% bakuchiol twice daily versus 0.5% retinol once daily; high-resolution facial imaging plus blinded dermatologist grading.

Tolerance difference Description
Retinol More facial scaling and stinging were reported.
Bakuchiol Suitable for morning and evening use, with no reported photosensitivity; offers wider design space for sensitive skin and higher-frequency use.

Head-to-head human evidence shows that bakuchiol was comparable to 0.5% retinol for both wrinkles and pigmentation, with better tolerance.

Dhaliwal S, et al. Br J Dermatol. 2019;180(2):289–296. | Draelos ZD, et al. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(12):1181–1183.

13 · 03 · COMPLEMENTARY BIOLOGY

Two Actives, Two Complementary Biological Systems

Dimension Retinal Bakuchiol Complementary value
Core pathway Direct precursor of retinoic acid → classical RAR retinoid signaling Retinol-like transcriptional response via a non-classical RA pathway Dual-pathway coverage without full overlap
Epidermal action Epidermal renewal, keratinocyte differentiation and epidermal thickness Barrier and homeostasis support; enhancement of differentiation-related genes Renewal plus homeostasis
ECM/collagen Fibroblast function, new collagen deposition and MMP inhibition Collagen I/III/IV expression and ECM support Synthesis promotion × degradation management
Oxidation/inflammation Management of photoaging-related matrix degradation ROS defense and inflammatory-signal modulation A protective environment for high-efficiency activity
Pigment/blemish-prone skin Depigmenting activity, keratinization renewal and C. acnes inhibition Pigmentation improvement and blemish-prone skin support Multi-target clarity and tone management
Tolerance Significantly better than retinoic acid Better than 0.5% retinol in a head-to-head study Long-term-use friendliness for premium products

One pathway is a high-efficiency engine operating through classical RAR signaling; the other is a multi-pathway support system for homeostasis—Retinal × Bakuchiol complementary biology.

14 · 03 · DUAL-PATHWAY RENEWAL

Dual-Pathway Renewal: A More Complete Renewal LogicClassical RAR signaling from retinal plus multi-pathway homeostasis support from bakuchiol

Retinal pathway Bakuchiol pathway
One-step oxidation to retinoic acid Plant-derived meroterpene phenol
RAR-RXR heterodimer and target-gene transcription Retinol-like transcriptional response plus antioxidant and inflammatory modulation; non-classical RA pathway, NF-κB and ROS defense
Epidermal renewal, keratinocyte differentiation, ECM remodeling, collagen homeostasis and MMP management Skin homeostasis, barrier support, ECM support, photoaging defense and pigment management

Dual-pathway retinoid renewal: epidermal renewal · ECM support · oxidative defense · homeostasis maintenance.

15 · 03 · RETINAL + BAKUCHIOL — COMBINED HUMAN EVIDENCE

Combined-System Human Study: Multidimensional Signals in 28 Days

Study design: open-label proof of concept; n=32 women, 65.6% with sensitive skin; once nightly for 28 days; a complex containing 0.1% liposomal retinal plus bakuchiol, with Vigna aconitifolia extract, niacinamide and melatonin.

01 100% of subjects showed a reduction in crow’s-feet count; all 32 of 32 participants improved.
02 Good tolerance: no significant changes in erythema or burning/stinging; no participant, including those with sensitive skin, needed to alter the once-daily regimen.
03 Methods: Cutometer® for firmness R0 and elasticity R2, Primos®-CR for wrinkles and VISIA®-CR for tone; D0–D28 change from baseline; *p<0.05, ***p<0.001.

Note: These data describe the complete active system containing retinal plus bakuchiol and do not isolate the individual contribution of either ingredient.

Brown A, et al. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb). 2023;13(10):2299–2317.

16 · 03 · FROM EFFICACY TO MECHANISM

From Human Efficacy to Molecular Mechanism

01 Enhanced gene expression: In a full-thickness reconstructed human skin model, adding bakuchiol to 0.1% retinal further enhanced retinal’s regulation of keratinocyte-differentiation genes CASP14, KRT14 and TP63 and barrier genes FLG, CDSN and CLDN1. Several changes exceeded the 0.05% retinoic-acid control.
02 No increase in irritation potential: In a reconstructed human epidermis model, ET50 remained >24 hours for both 0.1% retinal alone and retinal + bakuchiol + Vigna aconitifolia extract, maintaining gentleness while improving performance.
03 Mechanistic interpretation: Bakuchiol upregulated CRABP-II and genes related to retinol metabolism, supporting efficient RA signaling and providing a complementary mechanistic explanation for combined-system efficacy.

Ex Vivo UV-Photodamaged Skin Model: Combined System

Marker Change
CRABP-II expression +68%
Hyaluronic acid +71% versus UV-exposed skin
Procollagen I +33%
Degraded collagen −46% by CHP staining
MMP-1 expression −36%
Total collagen +16%, fully preventing UV-induced loss

Scientific boundary: the evidence demonstrates multidimensional efficacy and complementary mechanisms for the combined system; it does not prove strict pharmacological synergy between the two ingredients.

Brown A, et al. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb). 2023;13(10):2299–2317.

17 · 04 · DELIVERY — THE FORMULATION CHALLENGE

Why Nano Delivery Is Needed

Retinal: high activity, high sensitivity Bakuchiol: the dispersion challenge of a lipophilic molecule
Oxidation-sensitive aldehyde structure Lipophilic and naturally incompatible with high-water systems
Light-sensitive, with activity loss under illumination Application and dispersion challenges in high-water systems
Storage-stability challenges Formula uniformity requires technical support
Free active is vulnerable to the formulation environment System compatibility requires optimization

High activity does not automatically equal high performance. An active must be protected, dispersed and delivered before efficacy can be realized in a formula. NanoActive™ encapsulation is designed for sensitive actives.

18 · 04 · DELIVERY — NANOACTIVE™ TECHNOLOGY

Nano-Encapsulation Converts High Activity into High PerformanceNano-carriers encapsulate retinal and bakuchiol across protection, dispersion, delivery and formulation performance

01 Protection: Isolates and protects sensitive actives, reducing direct exposure to light, oxygen and the formulation environment.
02 Dispersion: Improves the dispersion and uniformity of lipophilic actives in high-water systems and optimizes compatibility.
03 Delivery: Supports even delivery and distribution of actives on the skin.
04 Performance: Improves development flexibility across serums, emulsions, gels and other modern formats—converting high activity into high formulation performance.

19 · 04 · FREE ACTIVE vs NANO-ENCAPSULATED

Free Active vs Nano-Encapsulated

Free active NanoActive™ encapsulation system
Light/oxygen/formulation environment: direct exposure to degradation factors Active encapsulation: retinal and bakuchiol loaded into nano-carriers
Activity loss during storage and shelf life Protection from light, oxygen and the formulation environment
Dispersion challenge and limited uniformity in high-water systems Stable and uniform distribution in high-water systems
Restricted delivery, reduced performance and narrower dosage-form choice Uniform delivery and greater design freedom across serums, emulsions, gels and other modern formats

Specific technical parameters such as particle size, encapsulation efficiency, release profile and stability are subject to the PuriPharm product technical documents (TDS/COA).

20 · 05 · APPLICATION — SKIN PERFORMANCE

Wrinkles · Firmness · Elasticity · Renewal

01 Wrinkles and photoaging: RAR-driven epidermal renewal and dermal remodeling; a retinal + bakuchiol system reduced wrinkle count by 43.2% in 28 days (p<0.001); retinaldehyde produced wrinkle and roughness improvement comparable to retinoic acid in an n=125 randomized trial.
02 Firmness and elasticity: Support for Collagen I/III, elastin, ECM and MMP management; after 28 days, elasticity increased 13.9% (p<0.001) and firmness increased 5.6% (p<0.05); one year of 0.05% retinaldehyde significantly improved skin elasticity (p<0.01).
03 Epidermal renewal: Regulation of keratinocyte differentiation and renewal, increased epidermal thickness (p<0.01), and improved texture and radiance—the mechanistic basis for night renewal and Skin Longevity products.
04 Tone improvement: Retinal depigmenting activity and epidermal renewal plus bakuchiol-associated pigment improvement in 59% of subjects; tone uniformity increased 7.0% after 28 days (p<0.05).

Brown A, et al. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb). 2023;13(10):2299–2317. | Diridollou S, et al. Dermatology. 1999;199(Suppl 1):37–41. | Sorg O, et al. Dermatology. 2013;227(3):231–237. | Dhaliwal S, et al. Br J Dermatol. 2019;180(2):289–296.

21 · 05 · APPLICATION — ANTIOXIDANT · BLEMISH-PRONE SKIN

Antioxidant Defense and Blemish-Prone Skin Microenvironment ManagementUV/pollution → ROS → oxidative stress → inflammatory signaling → increased MMP → collagen degradation; bakuchiol supports ROS defense, inflammatory modulation and MMP management

A Distinct Antibacterial Dimension of Retinal

01 In vivo: daily 0.05% retinaldehyde reduced median viable C. acnes density by 10² log/cm² after two weeks; vehicle had no effect.
02 Comedolytic and keratinization-renewal activity was observed in an animal model.
03 Bakuchiol antioxidant and inflammatory-modulating activity supports blemish-prone skin care.
04 Cosmetic language: clarity, balance, keratin renewal, blemish-prone skin care and microenvironment management.

Pechère M, et al. Dermatology. 1999;199(Suppl 1):29–31. | Fort-Lacoste L, et al. Dermatology. 1999;199(Suppl 1):33–35. | Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014;36(3):221–230.

22 · 06 · SKIN & SCALP LONGEVITY

From Skin Longevity to Scalp Longevity

The scalp is an extension of facial skin. The same biology that drives facial renewal—epidermal turnover, barrier homeostasis, oxidative-stress management and ECM support—also applies to the scalp and follicular microenvironment.

Skin Longevity → Scalp Longevity → Follicular Microenvironment

Setting Core biology
Facial skin Renewal, ECM, tone and homeostasis
Scalp Keratinization renewal, barrier, ROS and inflammatory microenvironment
Follicular microenvironment Epithelial homeostasis and perifollicular ECM
01 Scalp aging involves declining barrier function, accumulated oxidative stress and changes in the follicular microenvironment, sharing a mechanistic framework with facial photoaging.
02 The dual-pathway logic of retinoid biology and antioxidant support naturally extends to scalp-renewal applications.
03 The NanoActive™ delivery system supports dispersion and delivery in lightweight scalp-serum formats.

Positioning: Scalp Longevity Active System | Scalp Longevity Serum | Advanced Scalp Renewal | Skin & Scalp Longevity

23 · 06 · SCALP & FOLLICLE BIOLOGY

Scalp Renewal and Follicular Microenvironment SupportScalp epidermis, dermal/follicular zone and follicular microenvironment

Level Support direction
Scalp epidermis Keratinization renewal, scalp barrier and homeostasis
Dermal/follicular zone Follicular epithelium, perifollicular ECM and sebaceous glands
Follicular microenvironment ROS management, inflammatory signaling and environmental stress
01 Retinoid biology and the follicle: Retinoic-acid synthesis is localized to specific regions of the follicle and sebaceous gland, including the stem-cell microenvironment. Precisely regulated RA levels are essential to follicular epithelial homeostasis.
02 Oxidative stress and scalp aging: Oxidative stress is an important driver of scalp and hair aging. Bakuchiol’s antioxidant and inflammatory-modulating properties provide protective support for the perifollicular microenvironment.
03 Product positioning: Focuses on the scalp-care environment and biological support—scalp renewal, barrier maintenance and follicular microenvironment management—without drug-like hair-growth or anti-hair-loss claims.

Everts HB. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2012;1821(1):222–229. | Trüeb RM. Int J Trichology. 2009;1(1):6–14. | Trüeb RM. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2015;37(Suppl 2):25–30.

24 · 07 · APPLICATION MAP

Multi-Setting Applications

Face Eye Scalp & Hair
Advanced anti-aging serumsNight-renewal serumsLine-smoothing serumsFirming creamsSkin Longevity productsPhotoaging careTone-radiance careBlemish-prone skin care Eye serumsLine-smoothing eye creamsCrow’s-feet managementIn the combined-system study, 100% of subjects showed fewer crow’s feet after 28 days Scalp serumsAnti-aging scalp serumsScalp Longevity SerumHair Vitality SerumNight scalp careFollicular microenvironment care

Premium concepts: Retinoid Cycling | Skin Longevity | Scalp Longevity | Healthy Aging | Preventive Aging | Night Renewal

25 · THE PLATFORM

A Next-Generation Dual-Pathway Retinoid Renewal PlatformAdvanced retinal biology + complementary multi-pathway bakuchiol activity + NanoActive™ nano delivery

Platform value Description
Performance One oxidation step to RAR signaling, supported by a complete human-efficacy evidence chain.
Complementary biology Retinol-like gene expression × antioxidant defense × homeostasis support.
Delivery Protection, dispersion and delivery convert high activity into high formulation performance.
Skin + scalp applications A platform spanning both Skin Longevity and Scalp Longevity.

NanoActive™ Retinal-Bakuchiol: Retinoid performance, redefined.

PuriActives® and NanoActive™ are trademarks of PuriPharm Co., Ltd. This material is intended solely for technical communication concerning cosmetic ingredients.

26 · SCIENTIFIC REFERENCES

Scientific References

01 Siegenthaler G, Saurat JH, Ponec M. Retinol and retinal metabolism. Relationship to the state of differentiation of cultured human keratinocytes. Biochem J. 1990;268(2):371–378.
02 Saurat JH, et al. Topical retinaldehyde on human skin: biologic effects and tolerance. J Invest Dermatol. 1994;103(6):770–774.
03 Creidi P, et al. Profilometric evaluation of photodamage after topical retinaldehyde and retinoic acid treatment. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1998;39(6):960–965.
04 Creidi P, Humbert P. Clinical use of topical retinaldehyde on photoaged skin. Dermatology. 1999;199(Suppl 1):49–52.
05 Diridollou S, et al. Efficacy of topical 0.05% retinaldehyde in skin aging by ultrasound and rheological techniques. Dermatology. 1999;199(Suppl 1):37–41.
06 Boisnic S, et al. Repair of UVA-induced elastic fiber and collagen damage by 0.05% retinaldehyde cream in an ex vivo human skin model. Dermatology. 1999;199(Suppl 1):43–48.
07 Pechère M, et al. Antibacterial activity of retinaldehyde against Propionibacterium acnes. Dermatology. 1999;199(Suppl 1):29–31.
08 Fort-Lacoste L, et al. Comedolytic effect of topical retinaldehyde in the rhino mouse model. Dermatology. 1999;199(Suppl 1):33–35.
09 Fluhr JW, et al. Tolerance profile of retinol, retinaldehyde and retinoic acid under maximized and long-term clinical conditions. Dermatology. 1999;199(Suppl 1):57–60.
10 Sachsenberg-Studer EM. Tolerance of topical retinaldehyde in humans. Dermatology. 1999;199(Suppl 1):61–63.
11 Mukherjee S, et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327–348.
12 Sorg O, et al. The potential depigmenting activity of retinaldehyde. Dermatology. 2013;227(3):231–237.
13 Kwon HS, et al. Efficacy and safety of retinaldehyde 0.1% and 0.05% creams used to treat photoaged skin: a randomized double-blind controlled trial. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018;17(3):471–476.
14 Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014;36(3):221–230.
15 Dhaliwal S, et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol. 2019;180(2):289–296.
16 Brown A, et al. Natural retinol analogs potentiate the effects of retinal on aged and photodamaged skin: results from in vitro to clinical studies. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb). 2023;13(10):2299–2317.
17 Draelos ZD, et al. Clinical evaluation of a nature-based bakuchiol anti-aging moisturizer for sensitive skin. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(12):1181–1183.
18 Fisher GJ, et al. Molecular basis of sun-induced premature skin ageing and retinoid antagonism. Nature. 1996;379(6563):335–339.
19 Everts HB. Endogenous retinoids in the hair follicle and sebaceous gland. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2012;1821(1):222–229.
20 Trüeb RM. Oxidative stress in ageing of hair. Int J Trichology. 2009;1(1):6–14.

 

NanoActive™ BatyCer™

PURIPHARM CO. LTD. · INGREDIENT SCIENCE PLATFORM

NanoActive™ BatyCer™

Biomimetic Skin Barrier Lipid Platform

Powered by PURISOME® Liposome Delivery Technology

INCI NAME — BATYL ALCOHOL

02 · BARRIER SCIENCE

The New Era of Skin Barrier Science

Technology generation Core direction
Traditional moisturization Surface hydration
Occlusive barrier technology Reduction of surface water loss
Ceramide-based lipid repair Replenishment of essential barrier lipids
Biomimetic lipid reconstruction Restoration of skin-like lipid organization
Nano-delivery lipid platform Nanoscale delivery of ordered biomimetic lipid systems

Each generation of barrier care has moved closer to the skin’s own biology — from surface hydration toward the restoration of its native lipid organization.

NanoActive™ BatyCer™ embodies this progression: physiological lipids, engineered into an ordered architecture, delivered at the nanoscale.

“The future of barrier care is not only hydration — it is lipid architecture restoration.”

03 · PRODUCT OVERVIEW

NanoActive™ BatyCer™

Advanced Skin Barrier Lipid Platform

A multifunctional lipid delivery system that reassembles the skin’s native barrier lipids into a single, biomimetic stratum corneum architecture.

INTEGRATED LIPID SYSTEM

01 Batyl Alcohol — signature functional lipid
02 Ceramide NP — essential barrier lipid
03 Cholesterol — membrane stabilizer
04 Phospholipids — vesicle-forming carriers
05 Stearic Acid — physiological fatty acid

04 · THE SIGNATURE LIPID

Batyl Alcohol — The Signature Functional Lipid

INCI NAME

Batyl Alcohol

CHEMICAL IDENTITY

Glyceryl Octadecyl Ether (1-O-octadecyl glycerol)

STRUCTURAL CHARACTERISTICS

01 C18 alkyl chain — long-chain lipid affinity
02 Glycerol ether backbone — high chemical stability
03 Amphiphilic lipid structure — membrane compatibility

“Batyl Alcohol bridges conventional emollient technology and biomimetic lipid engineering.”

05 · SCIENTIFIC RATIONALE

Why Batyl Alcohol?

Scientific feature Significance
01 Lipid membrane compatibility An amphiphilic alkylglycerol that partitions readily into lipid membranes and integrates with bilayer structures.
02 Interaction with stratum corneum lipid domains Its C18 chain aligns with the intercellular lipid matrix, engaging the skin’s native barrier domains.
03 Support of ordered lipid organization Promotes the formation of ordered lamellar phases — the structural basis of a competent barrier.
04 Compatibility with lipid delivery systems Readily incorporated into phospholipid vesicles, enabling stable, nano-enabled delivery formats.

REFERENCE SCIENTIFIC FINDINGS

Alkylglycerol derivatives have demonstrated effects on:

01 — TEWL reduction
02 — Stratum corneum lipid organization
03 — Barrier modulation

Bernal-Chávez SA et al. Alkylglycerol Derivatives, a New Class of Skin Penetration Modulators. Molecules. 2017;22(1):185.

06 · SKIN PHYSIOLOGY

Skin Barrier Lipid Architecture

Structure Description
Corneocytes Flattened, protein-rich cells forming the structural “bricks” of the stratum corneum
Intercellular lipid matrix Lamellar assemblies of Ceramide NP, cholesterol and free fatty acids — the true barrier to water loss
Lamellar organization Ordered lipid layering governs water retention, barrier integrity, resilience and environmental protection

“The stratum corneum functions as a highly organized lipid membrane system.”

07 · THE ESSENTIAL BARRIER LIPID

Ceramide NP

The Essential Barrier Lipid

Ceramides constitute roughly half of the stratum corneum lipid mass. Among them, Ceramide NP is a dominant species in healthy human skin — and one of the first to decline when the barrier is compromised.

Core function Physiological significance
Water retention Forms the hydrophobic lamellar phases that limit transepidermal water loss.
Lamellar organization Drives the stacking of lipids into long-range ordered lamellar structures.
Barrier cohesion Cements corneocytes into a cohesive, mechanically resilient barrier.

“Restoring ceramide organization is a fundamental strategy for improving barrier performance.”

08 · PHYSIOLOGICAL LIPID BALANCE

Ceramide NP + Cholesterol + Fatty Acid Synergy

Balanced physiological lipid mixtures accelerate barrier recovery — Ceramide NP enriched systems restore barrier recovery, SC hydration and lipid organization.

09 · THE INNOVATION

Batyl Alcohol Reinforced Lipid Matrix

01 Batyl Alcohol: The structural lipid enhancer enters the platform.
02 Improves lipid compatibility: Harmonizes unlike lipid species within one matrix.
03 Supports membrane organization: Reinforces ordered packing across lipid domains.
04 Enhances biomimetic lipid assembly: A reinforced matrix, closer to the skin’s own architecture.

“Batyl Alcohol functions as a structural lipid enhancer within the barrier lipid platform.”

The result: a lipid matrix with greater coherence, stability and physiological resemblance than ceramide systems alone.

10 · DELIVERY TECHNOLOGY

PURISOME® Nanoliposome Technology

An advanced phospholipid-based nanocarrier that wraps the BatyCer™ lipid complex in a skin-affine bilayer envelope.

01 Lipid protection — shields sensitive lipids from oxidation and degradation
02 Improved dispersion — uniform nanoscale distribution throughout the formula
03 Enhanced formulation flexibility — easy incorporation across emulsion systems
04 Controlled lipid delivery — targeted deposition of barrier lipids at the skin surface

11 · MOLECULAR ARCHITECTURE

Inside the NanoActive™ BatyCer™ Vesicle

Architecture Function
Outer phospholipid bilayer Skin-affine vesicle envelope
Cholesterol stabilization Membrane cohesion and integrity
Batyl Alcohol integration Structural lipid enhancement
Ceramide NP lipid matrix Biomimetic barrier core

12 · MECHANISM OF ACTION

From Application to Barrier Performance

01 Application
02 NanoActive™ BatyCer™ deposition
03 Lipid integration
04 Barrier lipid organization
05 Reduced moisture loss
06 Improved skin comfort

Each vesicle carries a complete barrier-lipid repertoire; upon deposition, the lipids merge with the intercellular matrix and re-establish ordered lamellar organization.

13 · BARRIER REINFORCEMENT BENEFITS

Measurable Barrier Performance

01 Supports skin barrier recovery: Ceramide NP enriched lipid systems are documented to restore barrier recovery.
02 Improves hydration retention: Ordered lamellar lipids reduce TEWL and sustain stratum corneum hydration.
03 Enhances skin smoothness: A restored lipid matrix refines surface texture and tactile quality.
04 Strengthens lipid resilience: Alkylglycerol-supported lipid organization reinforces barrier modulation.

14 · HYDRATION SCIENCE

Hydration & Moisture Retention

THE PHYSIOLOGICAL LOGIC

Hydration is governed less by how much water a formula contains than by how well the barrier retains it. By rebuilding ordered lamellar lipids, NanoActive™ BatyCer™ addresses moisture loss at its structural origin.

TEWL — transepidermal water loss, the reference metric for barrier integrity.

15 · SENSITIVE SKIN

Sensitive Skin & Environmental Stress Support

BARRIER DISRUPTION FACTORS NANOACTIVE™ BATYCER™ SUPPORTS
Cleansing stress — Surfactants strip intercellular lipids Lipid balance — Replenishes the physiological lipid ratio
Environmental exposure — Pollution and UV challenge barrier lipids Barrier resilience — Reinforces lipid organization under stress
Dry climate — Low humidity accelerates water loss Skin comfort — Reduces tightness associated with barrier disruption

Barrier-compromised and sensitive skin states share a common origin: depleted and disorganized stratum corneum lipids. Lipid replenishment is the physiological counter-strategy.

16 · BEYOND SKIN

Advanced Hair Lipid Science

The hair fiber, like the skin barrier, depends on lipid organization. Its protective cuticle is coated in covalently bound surface lipids that chemical and thermal stress progressively remove.

CUTICLE LIPID REPLENISHMENT

NanoActive™ BatyCer™ deposits biomimetic lipids along the fiber surface, helping to re-lubricate lifted cuticle scales and restore a smooth, coherent surface.

17 · HAIRCARE APPLICATIONS

Lipid Science for Haircare Formulas

Application Positioning
Premium conditioners Daily lipid replenishment in rinse-off systems
Hair masks Intensive lipid restoration for damaged fiber
Leave-in treatments Persistent surface lipid film for daily defense
Scalp barrier products Extending barrier lipid science to the scalp

CONSUMER-VISIBLE BENEFITS

01 Improved smoothness
02 Enhanced shine
03 Better manageability

Surface lipid replenishment translates directly into sensory properties that consumers can feel and see.

18 · FOR FORMULATORS

Formulation Advantages

Advantage Description
01 Lipid system compatibility Integrates smoothly with oils, esters, ceramide systems and phospholipid phases.
02 Easy incorporation into emulsions Pre-dispersed nanoliposome form — no high-shear solubilization required.
03 Premium skincare concept fit Biomimetic barrier story aligned with dermo-cosmetic positioning.
04 Multifunctional formulations One platform spanning facial, body, hair and scalp applications.

“A biomimetic lipid platform that formulates like a modern active — and performs like skin’s own biology.”

19 · APPLICATION OPPORTUNITIES

One Platform, Three Categories

Facial Care Body Care Hair Care
Barrier creamsAnti-aging moisturizersSensitive skin products Dry skin careBody emulsionsIntensive lipid balms ConditionersHair masksScalp care
Core territory: daily barrier maintenance and recovery for the face Large-surface barrier support for dry and very dry body skin Cuticle lipid replenishment from fiber surface to scalp barrier

20 · SCIENTIFIC EVIDENCE LANDSCAPE

Built on Established Science

Evidence stream Scientific foundation
Batyl Alcohol Alkylglycerols documented for lipid organization, TEWL reduction and barrier modulation.
Ceramide NP Physiological ceramide species at the center of barrier restoration research.
Liposomes Decades of evidence for phospholipid vesicles in advanced topical delivery.

SUPPORTING LITERATURE DOMAINS

01 — Stratum corneum lipid organization and lamellar phase behavior
02 — Ceramide / cholesterol / free fatty acid systems and barrier recovery
03 — Liposomal topical delivery and skin deposition

Three independent evidence streams converge in one ingredient platform.

21 · INNOVATION SUMMARY

A Complete Lipid Engineering Solution

Platform element Content
Functional Lipid Batyl Alcohol
Biomimetic Barrier Matrix Ceramide NP · Cholesterol · Stearic Acid
Nano Delivery Technology PURISOME® Nanoliposomes

NanoActive™ BatyCer™: Biomimetic Skin Barrier Lipid Platform — PuriPharm Co. Ltd.

22 · SCIENTIFIC REFERENCES

Peer-Reviewed Foundation

01 [1] Bernal-Chávez SA, et al. Alkylglycerol Derivatives, a New Class of Skin Penetration Modulators. Molecules. 2017;22(1):185. doi:10.3390/molecules22010185
02 [2] Bektay HŞ, et al. The Design and Optimization of Ceramide NP-Loaded Liposomes to Restore the Skin Barrier. Pharmaceutics. 2023;15(12):2685. doi:10.3390/pharmaceutics15122685

FURTHER SUPPORTING LITERATURE

01 — Stratum corneum lipid organization and lamellar phase behavior
02 — Ceramide / cholesterol / free fatty acid systems and accelerated barrier recovery
03 — Liposomal topical delivery and controlled skin deposition

23 · CLOSING

NanoActive™ BatyCer™

An innovative cosmetic active platform combining biomimetic lipid science and nano delivery technology.

BIOMIMETIC SKIN BARRIER LIPID PLATFORM · PURIPHARM CO. LTD.

 

NanoActive™ Xantho 

 

PURIPHARM CO. LTD.

NanoActive™ Xantho

The Multi-Pathway Hop Bioactive for Skin & Scalp Longevity

INCI NAME — HUMULUS LUPULUS EXTRACT

Powered by PURISOME® Liposome Delivery Technology

XANTHOHUMOL · C21H22O5 · A PRENYLATED CHALCONE FROM HUMULUS LUPULUS

02 · POSITIONING

More Than a Botanical Antioxidant

From Hops to High-Performance Beauty Science

Xanthohumol is a prenylated chalcone naturally present in hops (Humulus lupulus L.) that connects several major biological pathways underlying visible skin aging, uneven tone, redness, blemish-prone skin and scalp stress.

NanoActive™ Xantho brings this multi-pathway biology into modern cosmetic formulation through advanced liposome delivery.

01|Oxidative Defense:multi-ROS and singlet-oxygen quenching capacity

02|Inflammation Control:modulation of NF-κB-driven inflammatory signaling

03|Tone Optimization:keratinocyte–melanocyte stress communication

04|Matrix Preservation:MMP and elastase inhibition, structural protein support

05|Blemish Ecosystem Support:microbial, oxidative and inflammatory balance

06|Scalp Homeostasis:a healthier foundation for scalp and hair

03 · PRODUCT PROFILE

NanoActive™ Xantho at a Glance

A Clean Technical Profile — Confirmed Information Only

Item:Product

Confirmed information:NanoActive™ Xantho

Item:INCI name

Confirmed information:HUMULUS LUPULUS EXTRACT

Item:Botanical source

Confirmed information:Humulus lupulus L.

Item:Signature bioactive

Confirmed information:Xanthohumol

Item:Bioactive family

Confirmed information:Prenylated chalcones

Item:Technology platform

Confirmed information:NanoActive™ · PURISOME® Liposome Delivery

Item:Application fields

Confirmed information:Skin Care + Scalp & Hair Care

Core Cosmetic Positioning

Antioxidant · Soothing · Tone-Evening · Anti-Aging · Blemish Care · Scalp Care

One botanical molecule. Multiple interconnected pathways of skin and scalp aging.

04 · THE MOLECULE

Xanthohumol: A Distinctive Prenylated Chalcone

Botanical Origin. Molecular Precision.

Xanthohumol combines the radical-scavenging chemistry of a polyphenol with a prenylated molecular architecture that supports interactions with lipid-rich biological environments.

Prenyl side chain: affinity for lipid-rich biological environments. Polyphenolic chalcone core: radical-scavenging chemistry.

Humulus lupulus L.: the cone of the hop plant, a natural reservoir of prenylated chalcones.

Reported Biological Activities

Reported biological activity:Antioxidant

Description:Multi-ROS defense

Reported biological activity:Antimicrobial

Description:Broad Gram-positive activity

Reported biological activity:Anti-inflammatory

Description:NF-κB pathway modulation

Reported biological activity:Pigmentation-modulating

Description:Multi-level tone pathways

Reported biological activity:ECM-protective

Description:MMP and elastase inhibition

Kołodziejczak A, et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2024;25:11938. · Oledzka E. Int J Mol Sci. 2024;25:3398.

05 · DELIVERY SCIENCE

Why Advanced Delivery Matters

Great biology meets a formulation challenge: NanoActive™ technology translates a lipophilic botanical active into a formulation-friendly format.

PURISOME® liposome concept—xanthohumol positioned within the phospholipid bilayer

Native xanthohumol:Highly lipophilic chalcone

NanoActive™ Xantho:Liposome-based incorporation strategy

Native xanthohumol:Poor aqueous solubility

NanoActive™ Xantho:Improved dispersion concept

Native xanthohumol:Challenging dispersion in water-rich cosmetic systems

NanoActive™ Xantho:Protection within a lipid-compatible microenvironment

Native xanthohumol:Delivery depends strongly on formulation environment

NanoActive™ Xantho:Designed for modern skin and scalp formulations

Native xanthohumol:—

NanoActive™ Xantho:A rational route to unlock a hydrophobic botanical active

Published research has investigated xanthohumol delivery using nanoliposomes, nanoparticles, solid lipid nanoparticles, microemulsions and other nanocarrier systems. Liposome-based delivery is a rational formulation strategy for sophisticated skin and scalp care systems.

Oledzka E. Int J Mol Sci. 2024;25:3398. · Khatib N, et al. J Food Process Preserv. 2019;43:e14075. · Harish V, et al. Pharmaceutics. 2022;14:2403.

06 · MECHANISM MAP

One Active, Multiple Beauty Pathways

A Systems Approach to Skin & Scalp Longevity

A systems approach to skin and scalp longevity

Pathway:ROS / singlet oxygen

Reported direction:Quenched ↓

Pathway:NF-κB inflammatory signaling

Reported direction:Modulated ↓

Pathway:GM-CSF / melanocyte activation

Reported direction:Suppressed ↓

Pathway:MMPs + elastase

Reported direction:Inhibited ↓

Pathway:Collagen · elastin · fibrillin

Reported direction:Supported ↑

Pathway:Acne-associated microbial pressure

Reported direction:Reduced ↓

Visible Outcomes

More resilient-looking skin · reduced appearance of redness · more even-looking tone · firmer, smoother appearance · blemish-prone skin support · healthier scalp environment.

07 · ANTIOXIDANT EVIDENCE

Antioxidant Performance Beyond Conventional Benchmarks

Exceptional Defense Against Multiple Reactive Oxygen Species

Total ORAC — Published Assay

Total ORAC: xanthohumol 4.20, green tea catechin reference 4.20, vitamin C 1.40, vitamin E 0.75

Xanthohumol delivered approximately 3× the total ORAC value of vitamin C and more than 5× that of vitamin E in this assay system.

Singlet Oxygen Absorbance Capacity — SOAC

SOAC sample:Xanthohumol

Vitamin E equivalents:14.1

SOAC sample:Green tea catechin reference

Vitamin E equivalents:1.8

SOAC sample:Vitamin E

Vitamin E equivalents:1.0

Why Singlet Oxygen Matters

Lipid oxidation · squalene peroxidation · photo-oxidative stress · inflammatory amplification · visible aging.

Yamaguchi N, Satoh-Yamaguchi K, Ono M. Phytomedicine. 2009;16:369–376. DOI: 10.1016/j.phymed.2008.12.021.

08 · INFLAMMATION CONTROL

Breaking the Oxidative–Inflammatory Loop

Calm the Signals That Accelerate Visible Aging

Xanthohumol—Interrupts the Cascade

Environmental / UV stress→ROS generation→TLR4 / MD2—NF-κB activation

→TNF-α · IL-1β · IL-6 · IL-12 · NO→Redness · irritation · ECM degradation · uneven appearance

Published Evidence

Suppression of NF-κB-related inflammatory signaling; reduced IL-12 production; reduced nitric oxide production; modulation of TNF-α, IL-1β and IL-6 signaling; and reduced chronic inflammatory response in experimental skin models.

Designed to help move stressed skin from inflammatory reactivity toward visible equilibrium.

Cho Y-C, et al. Int Immunopharmacol. 2010;10:556–561. · Philips N, et al. Anti-Inflamm Anti-Allergy Agents Med Chem. 2010;9:142–149. · Kołodziejczak A, et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2024;25:11938.

09 · TONE SCIENCE|GM-CSF

Interrupting Keratinocyte-to-Melanocyte Stress Signaling

GM-CSF—A Distinctive Skin-Stress Target

UV and chemical stress activate epidermal keratinocytes→Stressed keratinocytes release GM-CSF→Melanocyte activation and stress-associated pigmentation signaling

Reduction of Stress-Induced GM-CSF Release—In Vitro

PMA-induced stress −48%; UVB-induced stress −21%

Stress model:PMA-induced stress

With xanthohumol:52% of control, a 48% reduction

Positive-control context:57% reduction

Stress model:UVB-induced stress

With xanthohumol:79% of control, a 21% reduction

Positive-control context:45% reduction

Targeting the communication between stressed keratinocytes and melanocytes.

Patent-reported keratinocyte data: WO2010044076.

10 · TONE SCIENCE|EX VIVO

Ex Vivo Human Skin: Keeping the UV Stress Signal Near Baseline

A Compelling Keratinocyte–Melanocyte Story

Study element:Model

Detail:Human skin explants

Study element:Donor panel

Detail:n=6 donors

Study element:Skin phototype

Detail:Phototype III

Study element:Stress induction

Detail:UVA + UVB challenge

Active melanocytes: baseline 5.6, UVAB 10.5, UVAB + xanthohumol approximately basal

Endpoint:GM-CSF release

Baseline:5.35 pg/mL

UVAB:approximately 4× baseline

UVAB + xanthohumol:6.95 pg/mL

Endpoint:Active melanocytes

Baseline:5.6

UVAB:10.5

UVAB + xanthohumol:approximately basal

Xanthohumol helped disconnect UV stress from melanocyte activation.

Patent-reported ex vivo human skin data: WO2010044076.

11 · TONE SCIENCE|MULTI-LEVEL

More Than Tyrosinase: Multi-Level Tone Optimization

Target Pigmentation Across the Epidermal Signaling Network

01|Signal—GM-CSF stress-signal control:reduced keratinocyte-driven melanocyte activation following UV stress

02|Synthesis—melanogenic enzyme modulation:published mushroom tyrosinase studies demonstrate potent inhibition of L-tyrosine and L-DOPA oxidation

03|Transfer—reduced melanocyte dendricity:reported decrease in dendrite number and length, potentially reducing pigment transfer

04|Clearance—melanosome clearance:published cell studies indicate enhanced melanosome degradation in keratinocytes

From pigment signaling to pigment transfer and clearance—a multi-level approach to visible tone uniformity.

Goenka S, Simon SR. Biochem Biophys Rep. 2021;26:100955. · Kołodziejczak A, et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2024;25:11938. · WO2010044076.

12 · HUMAN EVIDENCE

Human Use Data: Visible Tone Evening in 8 Weeks

Patent-Reported Human Cosmetic Study

Study Design

25 female subjects; mean age 34.1 ± 6.1 years; phototypes III–IV; twice-daily application for 8 weeks; test cream containing 3% P1 xanthohumol preparation, equivalent to 22.5 ppm xanthohumol. Measurements included L*, ITA°, redness a* and pigmented-spot morphology.

Result:Objective brightness / ITA° criteria

Finding:68–72% of subjects demonstrated improvement after 8 weeks

Result:Pigmented spot area

Finding:−12.6% after 8 weeks

Result:Visible redness

Finding:Significantly reduced after 8 weeks

Visible tone uniformity backed by human cosmetic-use data.

Patent-reported human-use data: WO2010044076. Not proprietary NanoActive™ Xantho clinical testing.

13 · MATRIX LONGEVITY

Defending the Youthful Extracellular Matrix

Protect What Gives Skin Its Strength and Elasticity

Matrix Synthesis ⇌ Matrix Degradation

Slows degradation:Inhibits MMP-1, MMP-2, MMP-8, MMP-9 and elastase

Supports structural renewal:Published fibroblast data report increased biosynthesis of collagen I, III and V, elastin, fibrillin-1 and fibrillin-2

Slows degradation:MMP-1 inhibition: 91% at 100 µg/mL MMP-8 inhibition: 99% at 100 µg/mL

Supports structural renewal:Structural proteins associated with skin strength and elasticity

Slows degradation:Reported IC50: MMP-1 20.5 µg/mL; MMP-8 16.8 µg/mL

Supports structural renewal:—

Dual-action matrix strategy—slow degradation while supporting structural renewal.

Yamaguchi N, et al. Phytomedicine. 2009;16:369–376. · Philips N, et al. J Cosmet Sci. 2010;61:125–132.

14 · BLEMISH CARE

A Multi-Target Active for Blemish-Prone Skin

Beyond Antibacterial: Rebalancing the Blemish Ecosystem

Target:Microbial pressure

Direction:Acne-associated bacteria ↓

Target:Oxidative stress

Direction:ROS and singlet oxygen ↓

Target:Inflammatory signaling

Direction:COX-2 / PGE2 / IL-1β / TNF-α-associated pathways ↓

Target:Matrix stress

Direction:MMP-driven collagen degradation ↓

Published MIC Values—µg/mL

MIC values: C. acnes 3 µg/mL; S. aureus 1; S. epidermidis 3; S. pyogenes 1

Organism:C. acnes

Published MIC, µg/mL:3

Organism:S. aureus

Published MIC, µg/mL:1

Organism:S. epidermidis

Published MIC, µg/mL:3

Organism:S. pyogenes

Published MIC, µg/mL:1

Cutibacterium acnes was reported as Propionibacterium acnes in the original study.

Antioxidant + antimicrobial + inflammation-modulating + matrix-protective activity in one botanical platform.

Yamaguchi N, et al. Phytomedicine. 2009;16:369–376.

15 · SCALP & HAIR CARE

Scalp-First Hair Care

Healthy-Looking Hair Starts with Scalp Homeostasis

Scalp and follicular microenvironment—oxidative, sebum and microbial stress signals

01|Oxidative-Stress Defense:helps counter environmental and photo-oxidative stress affecting the scalp

02|Scalp Comfort:supports modulation of inflammatory signaling associated with visible redness and discomfort

03|Sebum Environment Support:hop and xanthohumol literature supports sebum-conscious cosmetic concepts

04|Microbial-Balance-Oriented Care:broad activity against relevant Gram-positive microorganisms supports scalp-purifying concepts

05|Follicular Environment Protection:helps maintain a healthier biochemical environment around the scalp and follicular opening

A scalp-first active for stronger skin foundations and healthier-looking hair.

WO2010044076 describes topical xanthohumol applications for improving the overall condition of skin and scalp.

16 · APPLICATIONS

Formulation & Application Opportunities

From High-Performance Facial Care to Advanced Scalp Systems

Skin Care:Antioxidant serums; tone-evening essences; anti-aging concentrates

Scalp & Hair Care:Scalp serums; scalp tonics; scalp essences

Skin Care:Blemish-prone skin serums; post-stress soothing products; redness-care formulations

Scalp & Hair Care:Sebum-conscious scalp care; sensitive-scalp formulas; anti-pollution scalp care

Skin Care:Urban defense / anti-pollution care; after-sun skin care

Scalp & Hair Care:Premium shampoos; conditioners; leave-on scalp treatments

Skin Care:Eye and facial care; premium night-repair products

Scalp & Hair Care:Hair-density appearance support concepts*

*Based on scalp health.

Suitable for development across sophisticated leave-on and rinse-off skin and scalp formats.

17 · THE NANOACTIVE™ XANTHO ADVANTAGE

One Active. Six Strategic Beauty Territories.

01|Antioxidant Shield:multi-ROS and singlet-oxygen defense

02|Redness & Comfort:multi-pathway inflammatory-signaling modulation

03|Even-Tone Science:GM-CSF, melanocyte activation, pigment transport and melanosome pathways

04|Matrix Longevity:MMP / elastase inhibition plus structural-protein support

05|Blemish Ecosystem:antimicrobial, antioxidant, inflammatory and matrix approach

06|Scalp Homeostasis:oxidative, inflammatory, sebum and microbial-environment support

Multi-Pathway Botanical Intelligence, Delivered by Liposome Science.

NanoActive™ Xantho transforms the biological versatility of hop-derived xanthohumol into a modern active platform for next-generation skin and scalp care.

18 · EVIDENCE BASE

Selected Scientific References

Human & Ex Vivo Evidence · Primary Mechanistic Data · High-Quality Reviews

01|Yamaguchi N, Satoh-Yamaguchi K, Ono M. In vitro evaluation of antibacterial, anticollagenase, and antioxidant activities of hop components addressing acne vulgaris.Phytomedicine.2009;16:369–376. DOI: 10.1016/j.phymed.2008.12.021.

02|Philips N, Samuel M, Arena R, et al. Direct inhibition of elastase and matrix metalloproteinases and stimulation of biosynthesis of fibrillar collagens, elastin, and fibrillins by xanthohumol.J Cosmet Sci.2010;61:125–132.

03|Cho YC, You SK, Kim HJ, et al. Xanthohumol inhibits IL-12 production and reduces chronic allergic contact dermatitis.Int Immunopharmacol.2010;10:556–561.

04|Goenka S, Simon SR. Depigmenting effect of xanthohumol from hop extract in MNT-1 human melanoma cells and normal human melanocytes.Biochem Biophys Rep.2021;26:100955.

05|Kołodziejczak A, Dziedzic M, Algiert-Zielińska B, et al. A Novel Look at Mechanisms and Applications of Xanthohumol in Dermatology and Cosmetology.Int J Mol Sci.2024;25:11938. DOI: 10.3390/ijms252211938.

06|Oledzka E. Xanthohumol—A Miracle Molecule with Biological Activities: A Review of Biodegradable Polymeric Carriers and Naturally Derived Compounds for Its Delivery.Int J Mol Sci.2024;25:3398. DOI: 10.3390/ijms25063398.

07|Gerhäuser C. Broad spectrum antiinfective potential of xanthohumol from hop in comparison with activities of other hop constituents and metabolites.Mol Nutr Food Res.2005;49:827–831.

08|WO2010044076. Cosmetic and topical uses of xanthohumol, including skin brightening, reduction of skin redness and GM-CSF-related mechanisms.

Evidence hierarchy: human / ex vivo cosmetic evidence → primary peer-reviewed mechanistic data → high-quality scientific reviews.