PuriActives® ChitoQ

PuriActives® ChitoQ

INCI: Chitosan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

A permanently cationic chitosan derivative that delivers conditioning, moisturization, and antimicrobial support for skin and hair through a single bio-based polymer.

For cosmetic formulators · R&D scientists · Product development and brand innovation teams

01 · FORMULATION CHALLENGE

An excellent biopolymer constrained by pH

The limitation of native chitosan

  • Its amino-group charge exists only below pKa ≈ 6.3–6.5; above that range, both charge and solubility collapse.
  • It requires acidic systems, limiting dosage-form choices and active-ingredient combinations.
  • Its performance is weakest across the true pH range of skin and hair products (4.5–7).

New market requirements

  • Bio-based, biodegradable conditioning polymers.
  • Multifunctionality in one ingredient: conditioning + moisturization + microbial support.
  • Rinse-resistant deposition without build-up or tackiness.

Sources: chitosan pKa and pH-dependent charge—J. Mater. Chem. B 2023; ACS Appl. Mater. Interfaces 2023.

02 · PRODUCT OVERVIEW

One molecule, two care categories.

PuriActives® ChitoQ is a quaternized chitosan: a marine-derived polysaccharide carrying permanent quaternary ammonium groups. It is water-compatible, permanently cationic, and multifunctional for both leave-on and rinse-off systems.

  • Cationic affinity deposition on hair keratin and skin surfaces.
  • Conditioning, cuticle smoothing, and anti-static performance.
  • Moisturization benchmarked against hyaluronic acid.
  • Broad-spectrum antimicrobial and anti-biofilm support.
  • A bio-based, biodegradable alternative to synthetic polyquaterniums.

pH 3–10Maintains permanent cationic character across the formulation pH window 0.625 mg/mLMIC against Streptococcus mutans—90% growth inhibition in vitro
98.5%Degree of substitution in the current batch (specification ≥ 80%) CosIngEU-listed INCI—functions: hair conditioning and humectant

Sources: Gao et al., Molecules 2024 (S. mutans, in vitro); EU CosIng database; Puripharm batch COA (May 2026).

03 · MOLECULAR DESIGN

From chitosan to ChitoQ: functional quaternization

Permanent cationic charge

Quaternary ammonium groups never deprotonate, preserving charge across the full cosmetic pH range.

True water compatibility

It dissolves directly in water without acidification—add it to the water phase and formulate freely.

Stronger surface affinity

Electrostatic binding to anionic keratin and skin surfaces drives affinity deposition and film formation.

The quaternization route follows the published synthesis of N-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride chitosan (Gao et al., Molecules 2024).

04 · PHYSICOCHEMICAL PROPERTIES

Positive charge at any formulation pH

Unconditional charge

Quaternary ammonium groups remain protonated from acidic to weakly alkaline media—affinity deposition no longer depends on pH.

Soluble where chitosan is not

High-substitution HACC forms clear aqueous solutions (transmittance >80% at 80% substitution)—no acidification or pre-dissolution required.

Built for deposition

High permanent charge density maximizes electrostatic interaction with anionic keratin and skin—the physical basis for conditioning and film formation.

Sources: ACS Appl. Mater. Interfaces 2023 (zeta potential of quaternized chitosan, pH 3–10); ACS Omega 2021 (QCS charge retention); Gao et al., Molecules 2024 (solubility).

05 · MECHANISM OF ACTION

Designed to bind precisely where damage occurs

  1. Selective attraction: the isoelectric point of hair keratin is approximately 3.67. At cosmetic pH, hair carries a net negative charge, and damaged fibres are even more negatively charged.
  2. Cationic deposition: ChitoQ adsorbs to anionic sites through electrostatic interaction, concentrating deposition where the fibre needs it most and resisting rinse-off.
  3. Conditioning film: the bound polymer forms a smooth, hydrophilic film that lays cuticles flat, reduces friction and static, and helps retain surface moisture.

The same physical mechanism works on skin: an affinity, breathable cationic film binds water and supports the surface barrier—one mechanism, two categories.

Source: hair isoelectric point and cationic deposition mechanism—Gavazzoni Dias et al., On Hair Care Physicochemistry, Int. J. Trichology / PMC9921463.

EVIDENCE SECTION

Performance evidence

Quantified results from peer-reviewed research on ChitoQ chemistry, presented with transparent evidence grading.

A | Studies on ChitoQ chemistry itself (Chitosan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride)

B | Structurally similar quaternized chitosan—mechanistic support

C | General chitosan literature—physicochemical background

06 · HAIR-CARE PERFORMANCE

Affinity conditioning beyond rinse-off

A cationic film restores surface smoothness and shine.

Targeted deposition on damaged keratin [B]

The affinity of quaternized chitosan for hair keratin has been demonstrated, and its strengthening and conditioning effects have been documented since the earliest quaternized-chitosan patents.

Easier wet and dry combing [C]

The adsorbed film reduces inter-fibre friction, helps detangling, and reduces mechanical breakage during combing.

Anti-static and frizz control [C]

Charge neutralization plus a smoothing film minimizes static and seals cuticles against humidity-induced frizz.

Shine, softness, and color protection [C]

Flat cuticles reflect light evenly, while the protective film helps color resist washing and UV exposure.

Added scalp-care benefit [A]

Demonstrated antimicrobial activity extends the benefit from the hair fibre to the scalp environment.

Damaged hair has a lower isoelectric point and a denser negative surface charge, so cationic polymers deposit preferentially where repair is most needed.

Sources: US 4,772,689 (Lang et al., quaternized-chitosan affinity); PCACD 2024 review (chitosan hair care); Gao et al., Molecules 2024. See the evidence section for [A]/[B]/[C] grading.

07 · SKIN-CARE PERFORMANCE

Hyaluronic-acid-level moisturization

[A] HACC performs within the hyaluronic-acid range, and its ion-exchange derivative can reach 2.2× HA. At 43% RH, the HACC derivative also absorbed more moisture than HA (74–94% vs 32.4%, 48 h).

Dual water management

A surface rich in hydroxyl and quaternary ammonium groups binds water through hydrogen bonding, while the affinity film helps slow transepidermal water loss. [A/C]

Breathable barrier support

Chitosan films are non-occlusive: they buffer the stratum corneum against environmental stress while allowing skin to function normally. [C]

Sensory differentiation

The cationic film provides a distinctive smooth, cushioned after-feel—a humectant consumers can actually perceive. [C]

Sources: Mi et al., Polymers 2021 (PMC8307204)—in vitro comparison of moisture absorption/retention by HACC, its derivatives, and sodium hyaluronate; chitosan film/TEWL literature (PCACD 2024).

08 · ANTIMICROBIAL SUPPORT

A cationic mechanism acting on microbial surfaces

0.625 mg/mLMIC of N-2-HACC against S. mutans; 90.0% growth inhibition at the MIC [A] > 90%Inhibition of E. coli and S. aureus by quaternized chitosan salts at 0.5 mg/mL [B] BiofilmFormation is significantly inhibited, with activity increasing as substitution degree rises [A/B]

How the permanent charge works [A]

  • Electrostatic binding to negatively charged cell envelopes.
  • Increased cell-wall permeability (alkaline phosphatase leakage).
  • Disrupted membrane integrity—visible pitting under SEM.
  • Inhibited respiratory metabolism and protein/DNA synthesis.

Gentle, film-forming antimicrobial support for leave-on systems. Position it as preservative-boosting support; actual in-formula performance must be confirmed by preservative challenge testing.

Sources: [A] Gao et al., Molecules 2024 (N-2-HACC against S. mutans; MIC/SEM/biofilm); [B] Wang et al., Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 2024 (chitosan quaternary ammonium salts; E. coli/S. aureus).

09 · SAFETY AND MILDNESS

Cationic performance without the baggage

ChitoQ carries its charge on a high-molecular-weight polysaccharide backbone—it stays on the surface where it works, rather than penetrating like a small-molecule quaternary ammonium salt.

No cytotoxicity in cell testing [A]

HACC-based derivatives showed no significant toxicity toward L929 fibroblasts; independent literature describes N-2-HACC as having very low toxicity and high safety.

Bio-based and biodegradable [A/C]

The marine-derived polysaccharide backbone addresses sustainability and environmental-persistence concerns associated with traditional synthetic cationic polymers.

Built-in antioxidant benefit [A]

Beyond conditioning, HACC derivatives show free-radical scavenging activity (DPPH and superoxide anion).

A high-molecular-weight cationic biopolymer designed for surface action. Finished-formula suitability and regulatory compliance remain the responsibility of the product developer; a complete toxicology dossier is available upon request.

Sources: Han et al., Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 2024 (L929 cytotoxicity and antioxidant assays); Gao et al., Molecules 2024; Processes 2026 review (limitations of cationic systems).

10 · HAIR + SCALP SYNERGY

One functional biopolymer—two cosmetic interfaces

Hair fibre

  • Targeted deposition [B]: cationic chains anchor to negatively charged damaged keratin sites.
  • Cuticle smoothing [C]: the adsorbed film lays raised cuticles flat and reduces inter-fibre friction.
  • Anti-static control [C]: charge neutralization tames static and humidity-induced frizz.
  • Protective conditioning layer [B]: the affinity polymer film helps protect hair from daily mechanical damage.

Scalp

  • Moisture management [B]: the humectant polysaccharide film helps retain water at the scalp surface.
  • Surface comfort film [C]: an ultra-thin polymer layer provides a smooth, protected skin feel.
  • Microenvironment support [A]: demonstrated antimicrobial activity supports scalp-care concepts.
  • Formulation support [A]: water-phase compatibility simplifies scalp lotions, essences, and cleansing formulas.

The charge-affinity mechanism that conditions hair also serves the skin where hair grows.

See the evidence section for grading. Sources: Gao et al., Molecules 2024 [A]; Mi et al., Polymers 2021 [B]; US 4,772,689 [B].

11 · PERFORMANCE ARCHITECTURE

One polymer, six cosmetic functions.

01 CONDITION | Affinity cationic deposition

Permanent charge anchors the polymer to hair keratin and skin surfaces for rinse-resistant conditioning. [B]

02 SMOOTH | Film-forming surface refinement

An ultra-thin adsorbed film smooths cuticles and skin microrelief, reducing friction and roughness. [C]

03 HYDRATE | Water retention and binding

The hydrophilic polysaccharide structure binds water, with moisturization benchmarked against hyaluronic acid. [B]

04 PROTECT | Polymer protective interface

The deposited layer buffers hair fibres and skin surfaces against mechanical and environmental stress. [C]

05 CONTROL | Anti-static and manageability

Charge neutralization reduces static and makes wet and dry combing easier. [C]

06 SUPPORT | Skin and scalp-care functions

Demonstrated antimicrobial and moisturizing activity extends care from hair fibres to scalp and skin. [A]

Molecule → mechanism → performance → formulation → consumer benefit

The functional portfolio is limited to scientifically supported roles; see the evidence section for grading.

12 · APPLICATION OPPORTUNITIES

One ingredient, two care categories

Hair and scalp

  • Conditioning shampoos—deposition without build-up; compatible with amphoteric surfactant systems.
  • Rinse-off conditioners and masks—wet-combing slip, cuticle sealing, and shine.
  • Leave-on anti-frizz serums/sprays—an anti-static film with humidity resistance.
  • Scalp lotions—moisturization plus microbial-balance support.
  • Color-care systems—film protection against wash-out and UV fading.

Face and body

  • Moisturizing serums/essences—hyaluronic-acid-level hydration with a perceptibly cushioned skin feel.
  • Moisturizers and barrier creams—a breathable film that slows water loss.
  • Sheet-mask essences—affinity hydration that lasts after mask removal.
  • Facial mists/toners—water-clear and non-tacky.
  • Gentle cleansers—a conditioned after-feel with a microbial-support story.

Every concept inherits the same trio: affinity deposition · moisturization · microbial support

Concept directions are provided for development reference only; prototype formulas are available from the Puripharm application laboratory.

13 · FORMULATION GUIDE

Born for the water phase

Parameter Guidance
INCI / form Chitosan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride—off-white powder
Use level Varies by dosage form—the Puripharm application laboratory provides system-specific starting recommendations
Solubility Readily soluble in water across a broad pH window—no acidification required
Working pH Functional pH 3–10; comfortable formulation range pH 4–8
Addition Disperse in the water phase under moderate stirring until clear
Compatibility Cationic—avoid strongly anionic surfactants/polymers; best paired with nonionic and amphoteric systems
Process tolerance The polysaccharide backbone is stable; add below 80 °C to protect color and viscosity

Formulator notes

  • Rinse-off products: deposit first, rinse second—affinity withstands dilution.
  • Screen salts—high ionic strength compresses charge interactions.
  • Brings light, elegant viscosity to aqueous systems.
  • Pair with humectants (glycerin, betaine, PCA) to strengthen the hydration story.
  • Confirm preservative synergy in the final base through challenge testing.

Prototype formulas (conditioning shampoo, moisturizing serum, and scalp lotion) are available from the Puripharm application laboratory.

Guidance is based on published physicochemical behavior of quaternized chitosan and Puripharm application experience; validate in the final formula.

14 · DIFFERENTIATION

A bio-based answer to synthetic cationic polymers

Dimension PURIACTIVES® CHITOQ Native chitosan Synthetic polyquaterniums
Source Marine-derived, bio-based Marine-derived, bio-based Petrochemical
Charge vs pH Permanently cationic, pH 3–10 Only below pKa ≈ 6.5 Permanently cationic
Water compatibility Direct dissolution, no acidification Acidic media only Good
Affinity High—keratin and skin Moderate, pH-limited High
Multifunctionality Conditioning + moisturization + antimicrobial support Film-forming and moisturizing Conditioning only
End of life Biodegradable polysaccharide Biodegradable Persistence concern

Synthetic-grade performance with a biopolymer story—without naming any commercial competitor.

15 · QUALITY AND REGULATORY

Batch traceability—all 11 tests passed

Specification vs representative production batch

Test item Specification Batch result
Appearance Off-white powder Complies
Solubility Soluble in deionized water Complies
Moisture ≤ 10.0% 8.7%
Ash ≤ 1.0% 0.45%
pH (1% solution) 5.5–7.5 6.41
Viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20 °C) Meets product claim 18 mPa·s
Degree of deacetylation ≥ 85.0% 89.2%
Degree of substitution ≥ 80.0% 98.5%
Arsenic (As) ≤ 4.0 mg/kg Not detected (< 0.01)
Lead (Pb) ≤ 2.0 mg/kg Not detected (< 0.02)
Water-insoluble matter ≤ 0.5% 0.03%
11 / 11All quality tests passed for the current production batch 98.5%Degree of substitution; specification ≥ 80% NDArsenic and lead below detection limits (< 0.01 / < 0.02 mg/kg)

Regulatory identity

The INCI name Chitosan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride is listed in the EU CosIng database with hair-conditioning and humectant functions. Each batch is supplied with COA, TDS, and SDS.

Puripharm Co., Ltd. batch inspection report (May 2026); complete COA, TDS, and SDS are available upon request. EU CosIng listed functions: hair conditioning and humectant.

16 · SUMMARY

ChitoQ earns a place in your formula

Marine chitosan backbone → functional quaternization → water compatibility + permanent charge → biological surface binding → multifunctional performance

No more formulation compromise

Water compatibility across pH 3–10 ends the acidic-system constraint of native chitosan.

Performance that stays

Permanent cationic affinity delivers rinse-resistant conditioning and moisturization.

A cleaner label story

Bio-based, biodegradable, and clean in cell testing—a credible successor to synthetic polyquaterniums.

Honestly graded evidence

ChitoQ-specific data lead the story; related quaternized-chitosan and chitosan literature is clearly labeled.

One SKU, three functions

Conditioning, moisturization, and antimicrobial support simplify formulas and strengthen claims.

End-to-end support

Specifications, dossiers, and prototype formulas travel with the ingredient—not as an afterthought.

ChitoQ turns an exceptional biopolymer into a reliable formulation tool.

PURIPHARM CO., LTD.

Let’s build the next generation of care products together.

Request PuriActives® ChitoQ samples, specifications, safety dossiers, and prototype formulas.

Website www.puriactives.com
Email service@puripharm.com
Phone +86-572-2745768
Address Building 6, No. 1366 Hongfeng Road, Huzhou, Zhejiang, China

PuriActives® and ChitoQ® are registered trademarks of Puripharm Co., Ltd. This presentation introduces a cosmetic ingredient only and contains no drug claims. In vitro and third-party literature data are identified and do not represent clinical performance of finished products.

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