PURIPHARM CO., LTD. · PuriActives® High-Performance Actives

OleaXin™ Oleanolic Acid Nanogel

齐肤因™ · Oleanolic Acid Nanogel

From a high-potential pentacyclic triterpene to a modern Nanogel active system.

INCI: Oleanolic Acid · Phospholipids · Glycerin · Water

Technical Marketing Presentation · For B2B Professional Use Only

01 · THE OPPORTUNITY

Why Refocus on Oleanolic Acid?

01 A Multi-Target Biological Foundation

Sebum regulation · inflammatory signaling · oxidative stress · ECM homeostasis · follicular microenvironment. Oleanolic acid is a pentacyclic triterpene widely found in olive, Ligustrum lucidum, and other plants, long followed by dermatological literature. Its value lies not in a single benefit, but in simultaneously touching multiple biological pathways related to oily skin, blemish-prone skin, and scalp health.

02 Skin + Scalp Dual Scenarios

Facial oil control and soothing share one mechanistic framework with scalp oil management.

03 A Deep Literature and Patent Base

From enzymology and cell studies to animal and human research, the evidence chain spans more than two decades.

04 Aligned with Oily-Skin and Scalp-Care Trends

Blemish-prone skin management, scalp microbiome care, and the “skinification” of hair care continue to gain momentum.

The scientific potential is high, yet formulation use is anything but simple — its highly lipophilic molecular nature has kept oleanolic acid a “research hotspot” rather than a “formulation regular.”

02 · MOLECULAR IDENTITY

Meet Oleanolic Acid: A Classic Pentacyclic Triterpene

Naming note: “石竹素” is the Chinese inventory name of Oleanolic Acid in China’s cosmetic ingredient system; the scientific narrative uses “齐墩果酸” (oleanolic acid), the name familiar to R&D professionals. Official ingredient information follows the INCI name.

INCI name	Oleanolic Acid
Chinese inventory name	石竹素 (Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China)
CAS number	508-02-1
Formula / MW	C₃₀H₄₈O₃ / 456.70 g·mol⁻¹
Chemical class	Pentacyclic triterpene (β-amyrin type)
Natural sources	Olive leaves, Ligustrum lucidum, Centella asiatica, and other plants
Physicochemical profile	Highly lipophilic; practically insoluble in water

A molecule studied for over half a century — as one of the active components of many medicinal plants, its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and metabolism-modulating activities have been repeatedly reported in pharmacological literature, and its skin and scalp biology value continues to be rediscovered.

References: Ayeleso TB et al. Molecules. 2017;22(11):1915. DOI:10.3390/molecules22111915; PubChem CID 10494.

03 · THE FORMULATION CHALLENGE

High Bioactivity Does Not Mean High Formulation Usability

Practical Impact for Formulators

Difficult to dose directly into water-based serums and gels, requiring pre-dissolving or solubilization design; crystallization causes non-uniform content, affecting batch stability and efficacy consistency; high-ethanol / high-oil solubilization limits sensory feel and dosage-form options; the active’s theoretical efficacy is hard to convert reliably into finished-product performance.

The Industry Recognized This Long Ago

As early as 2001, an international cosmetics group filed a patent around “solubilizing pentacyclic triterpenic acids” (US 2001/0029266 A1), improving dispersion through specific emulsifier systems. Review literature likewise notes that oleanolic acid’s low water solubility limits its bioavailability, with structural modification and delivery systems as the two solution paths.

Solving the formulation bottleneck matters more than discovering yet another benefit — this is exactly where OleaXin™ starts.

References: US 2001/0029266 A1; Wang W et al. Curr Top Med Chem. 2022;22(1). DOI:10.2174/1568026621666211105101231.

04 · THE SOLUTION

PuriActives® OleaXin™ — Rebuilding Oleanolic Acid as a Nanogel

OleaXin™ converts highly lipophilic oleanolic acid, through phospholipid association and nanostructured dispersion, into a Nanogel active format compatible with aqueous systems — without changing the molecule itself, only the way it exists in a formula.

INCI NAMEOleanolic Acid 石竹素Phospholipids 磷脂 · Glycerin 甘油 · Water 水

DESIGN LOGICOleanolic acid + phospholipids + glycerin + water→ Nanogel Delivery System

a. Nanostructured deliveryNanostructured presentation of a lipophilic active	b. Aqueous compatibilityAqueous-compatible format for modern chassis
c. Formulation-friendly dispersionImproved dispersion, fewer pre-dissolving steps	d. Skin & scalp versatilityOne active for both skin and scalp care

齐肤因™ is the Chinese product name of PuriActives® OleaXin™. This material is for cosmetic ingredient technical exchange only and involves no pharmaceutical claims.

05 · DELIVERY ENGINEERING

From Crystalline Active to Nanogel: An Engineered Pathway

What It Means at the Formulation Level

· Improved aqueous dispersion　· Lower crystallization risk　· Simpler pre-dissolving　· Broader dosage-form options　· Better formula uniformity

Core conversion logic: Hard-to-Formulate Bioactive ——→ Ready-to-Use Advanced Active

Technical note: this page illustrates the delivery system design principle. OleaXin™’s specific particle size, encapsulation efficiency, and penetration data are subject to measured values in the PuriPharm TDS; without cited measured data, this material does not use statements such as “penetration increased by XX%.”

06 · BIOLOGICAL LANDSCAPE

One Active, Multiple Skin and Scalp Biology Pathways

The pentacyclic triterpene scaffold determines oleanolic acid’s potential to interact with multiple cellular signaling pathways. The following chapters unfold in the order of mechanism → data → biological significance → cosmetic value, each pathway annotated with traceable literature or patent evidence and its evidence level.

07 · SEBUM REGULATION

Oil Balance: Starting from Sebaceous Gland Biology

Sebum secretion is governed by androgen signaling: testosterone is converted by 5α-reductase into the more potent DHT, driving sebaceous gland hyperplasia and lipid synthesis. 5α-reductase is therefore a classic target for oil-control actives.

Human Efficacy Reference: An Oleanolic Acid-Containing Blend

28-day half-face controlled use test (3% blend, n≈20, oily-skin panel); multi-ingredient system, not attributable to oleanolic acid alone.

-21.7%skin gloss (mean)

-16%pore surface area (mean)

-32%sebum flow (mean)

Reading the Evidence

· Oleanolic acid’s 5α-reductase inhibition is direct in-vitro enzymatic evidence (patent assay data);· The human data come from a multi-ingredient blend containing oleanolic acid, indicating the mechanism’s market translation value;· Sebum management should also address inflammation and oxidative stress (next page).

Data sources: US 7,182,963 B2 (in-vitro 5α-reductase enzymatic assay); attached technical documentation (28-day human test of an oleanolic acid-containing blend).

08 · BLEMISH-PRONE SKIN

Blemish-Prone Skin Is Not a Single-Pathway Problem

Blemish formation involves the interplay of excess sebum, abnormal follicular duct keratinization, the microbial environment, and inflammatory responses. Oleanolic acid’s value lies in evidence covering several of these links — not merely “antibacterial anti-acne.”

① Sebum secretion5α-reductase / androgen-driven lipid synthesis

② Follicular environmentDuct keratinization and sebum retention form the comedone microenvironment

③ Microbial factorsCutibacterium acnes-related flora environment

④ Inflammatory responseNF-κB-driven redness and discomfort

Where Oleanolic Acid’s Evidence Sits in Each Link

■ Sebum link　Concentration-dependent 5α-reductase inhibition (56.3% at 0.1%, in-vitro enzymatic assay)■ Microbial link　Patent literature reports inhibitory activity against C. acnes and other skin-related flora■ Inflammation link　Modulates NF-κB / STAT1 signaling in keratinocytes and animal models (detailed next page)■ Barrier link　Promotes epidermal differentiation and barrier recovery, helping blemish-prone skin maintain a more stable state

Translated into Cosmetic Language

· Oily and blemish-prone skin care　· Sebum balance management　· Pore oil-environment management　· Soothing discomfort of blemish-prone skinNo pharmaceutical claims such as “treating acne”; mechanistic evidence supports the product’s scientific narrative.

References: US 7,182,963 B2; Kang YM et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2021;22:12000; Lim SW et al. J Dermatol. 2007;34:625-634.

09 · INFLAMMATORY BALANCE

Stabilizing Stressed Skin from the Source of Inflammatory Signaling

Mechanistic Evidence: Cell and Animal Levels Corroborate Each Other

In vitro (HaCaT keratinocytes)　Under TNF-α / IFN-γ stimulation, oleanolic acid blocked the activation of Akt, NF-κB, and STAT1, and suppressed Th2-type cytokine and chemokine expression.

In vivo (DNCB mouse model)　Three weeks of topical dosing significantly relieved dermatitis-like lesions, reducing epidermal/dermal thickness, mast cell infiltration, and serum histamine levels.

Cosmetic value　Helps soothe irritated skin · Maintains a healthy inflammatory balance · Improves skin comfort under stressful environments

Data source: Kang YM et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2021;22(21):12000. DOI:10.3390/ijms222112000 (animal and cell evidence, not human clinical conclusions).

10 · OXIDATIVE STRESS DEFENSE

Helping Skin Build Stronger Stress Defense

An Honest Scientific Positioning: It Is Not a Classic “Antioxidant”

DPPH radical-scavenging assays show oleanolic acid’s direct scavenging capacity is weak (only 9.2% at 100 µM, roughly equivalent to 4.45 µM Trolox). Its value lies in another path: pharmacological research links the oleanolic acid scaffold to the Keap1 / Nrf2 endogenous defense system and downstream antioxidant enzymes (HO-1, NQO-1), and it reduces oxidative stress markers in inflammation models.

Cell Compatibility: Evidence in Human Skin Fibroblasts

24-hour cytotoxicity assay: oleanolic acid (OA) showed no cytotoxicity up to 100 µM; its isomer ursolic acid (UA) had an IC₅₀ of 47.5 µM (MTT). OA is the gentler triterpene choice.

Cosmetic value　Supports the cell’s endogenous defense against environmental stress · Helps maintain a more stable skin state

Data sources: Wójciak-Kosior M et al. Folia Histochem Cytobiol. 2011;49(4):664-669. DOI:10.5603/FHC.2011.0050; Wang W et al. Curr Top Med Chem. 2022;22(1).

11 · EPIDERMAL HOMEOSTASIS

Epidermal Homeostasis: Experimental Evidence for Barrier Resilience

Mechanistic Landing Point: PPAR-α and Epidermal Differentiation Markers

In HaCaT keratinocytes, oleanolic acid (10 µmol/L, 24 h) raised PPAR-α, involucrin, loricrin, and filaggrin protein expression to about 2× control; electron microscopy showed increased lamellar body secretion and more complete lipid bilayer formation.

Cosmetic value　Supports epidermal homeostasis and barrier resilience · Helps maintain healthy skin barrier function · Completes the oily-skin care logic together with oil control and soothing

Data source: Lim SW et al. J Dermatol. 2007;34(8):625-634. DOI:10.1111/j.1346-8138.2007.00344.x (animal and cell evidence).

12 · MATRIX PROTECTION

Guarding the ECM: From Oxidative Stress to Collagen Degradation

▲ Oleanolic acid’s known evidence sits at upstream nodes: modulating oxidative stress and inflammatory signaling (NF-κB / MAPK family), influencing the matrix degradation cascade from its source.

ECM-Related Evidence Leads

■ Delivery + collagen patent　An oleanolic acid liposome composition patent (CN 103221028 B) targets collagen production, showing that “delivery technology + ECM” is an industry-recognized R&D path■ Photoaging use patent　A composition patent for pentacyclic triterpenic acids in preventing photoaging and sensitive skin (US 2001/0029266 A1)■ Mechanistic level　MAPK / NF-κB modulation evidence (see the inflammation chapter) covers upstream MMP signaling

Evidence Boundary Statement

Current ECM-related evidence for oleanolic acid consists mainly of patents and mechanistic studies; human anti-wrinkle clinical data are still lacking. This material therefore avoids statements like “reduces wrinkles by XX%” and instead positions oleanolic acid as an upstream modulator of the oxidative stress – inflammation – matrix degradation cascade.

Cosmetic value　Supports ECM homeostasis · Helps reduce stress-induced matrix degradation · Maintains a collagen-rich skin structure · Supports skin elasticity and firmness

References: CN 103221028 B; US 2001/0029266 A1; Kang YM et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2021;22:12000 (patent- and mechanism-level evidence).

PART II · SCALP SCIENCE

Skin biology doesn’t stop at the hairline.

From skin to scalp — shared sebum, inflammation, and oxidative stress biology.

The scalp is an extension of the skin: dense sebaceous glands, dense follicles, and androgen sensitivity. The mechanistic evidence for oleanolic acid in facial sebum management applies equally to the scalp scenario.

13 · SCALP & ANDROGEN BIOLOGY

Scalp Oil and Androgen Biology: Same Target, Second Scenario

Recalling the page-8 data: oleanolic acid concentration-dependently inhibits 5α-reductase in vitro (56.3% inhibition at 0.1%, US 7,182,963 B2) — a mechanism pointing to both facial sebum and scalp oil scenarios.

What Makes the Scalp Scenario Special

· High sebaceous gland density: oil oxidation products and flora metabolites together form an irritation source· Follicles are sensitive to androgen signaling; DHT-related follicular microenvironment stress is a focus of hair-care research· Scalp care is shifting from “hair-fiber cosmetic finish” to “scalp ecology management”

Compliant Cosmetic Language

· Helps maintain a healthy scalp oil environment　· Supports scalp ecological balance　· Helps maintain a healthy follicular microenvironment　· Supports scalp and follicle vitalityNo “anti-hair-loss / hair-growth / hair-loss treatment” claims.

References: US 7,182,963 B2; WO 2017/021247 A1 (hair-care composition patent containing oleanolic acid blends).

14 · FOLLICULAR MICROENVIRONMENT

The Follicular Microenvironment: More Than Just “Oil Control”

A 6-month open human study (56 subjects with androgenetic alopecia and telogen effluvium) showed that a scalp lotion containing oleanolic acid, apigenin, biotinyl tripeptide-1, and other ingredients significantly increased total hair count and anagen hair count. Oleanolic acid plays the 5α-reductase-modulating role in the blend.

Dermatologist Assessment (D180, full sample)

35.7%hair felt denser and fuller

37.5%overall hair appearance improved

39.3%scalp coverage improved

Reading the Evidence

· Human data from a multi-ingredient blend cannot be attributed to oleanolic acid alone;· Yet it is directionally consistent with the in-vitro 5α-reductase evidence, forming a “mechanism + clinical signal” combination;· No adverse events were reported throughout, with favorable usability ratings.

Cosmetic narrative: balanced scalp oil → a healthier follicular environment → support for hair vitality. Focus on “scalp care,” not “hair-loss treatment.”

Data source: Garre A et al. J Cosmo Trichol. 2018;4(1):1000132. DOI:10.4172/2471-9323.1000132 (multi-ingredient blend, 6-month open study).

15 · WHY NANOGEL MATTERS

Why Does Nanogel Matter So Much for Oleanolic Acid?

Conventional Oleanolic Acid (Crystalline Raw Material)	PuriActives® OleaXin™ (Nanogel Active System)
Poor compatibility with aqueous systems	Aqueous-compatible Nanogel format
Hard to disperse; requires pre-dissolving / solubilization design	Improved dispersion; more direct dosing
Crystallization / precipitation risk	Nanostructured presentation lowers recrystallization tendency
Limited dosage-form and formulation freedom	Greater formulation flexibility (serum / gel / emulsion / scalp essence)
A conventional active format	A delivery-enabled active for modern formulations

Each comparison dimension corresponds to verifiable technical basis: oleanolic acid’s lipophilicity and solubilization difficulty are documented in literature and patents (US 2001/0029266 A1; Wang et al. 2022); Nanogel-side statements describe delivery system design characteristics, with specific parameters subject to measured values in the PuriPharm TDS.

16 · FORMULATOR VALUE

What Does It Mean for Formulators?

• A more convenient way to use oleanolic acid　No need to solve solubilization from scratch; the active is dosed directly in water-dispersible form
• Greater formulation freedom　Less reliance on high-ethanol or high-oil solubilization
• Compatible with modern water-based serum systems　Works in serums, gels, emulsions, and other mainstream formats
• Skin Care + Scalp Care dual scenarios　One active covers both facial and scalp product lines
• Fewer complex pre-dissolving steps　Shorter process chain and lower batch-to-batch content-variation risk
• An easy nano-technology product story　The Nanogel delivery narrative combines scientific credibility with market recognition
• Supports lightweight dosage forms　Matches the “fresh, non-greasy feel” brief of oily-skin care

Hard-to-Formulate Bioactive → Ready-to-Use Advanced Active

17 · APPLICATIONS — SKIN CARE

Skincare Applications: Every Direction Has a Biological Basis

Sebum balance serum	5α-reductase modulation acting on upstream sebum-signaling (in-vitro enzymatic evidence)
Blemish-care serum	Multi-link support across sebum + microbial environment + inflammatory signaling (in-vitro / animal evidence)
Lightweight oil-control moisturizer	Aqueous-compatible Nanogel format suits fresh, light-feel systems (delivery system design feature)
Soothing serum	NF-κB / STAT1 inflammatory-signal modulation improves comfort under stress (animal + cell evidence)
Antioxidant defense serum	Supports endogenous defense pathways rather than relying on direct radical scavenging (mechanism-level evidence)
Anti-aging direction serum	Upstream modulation of the oxidative stress – inflammation – matrix degradation cascade (patent and mechanistic evidence)
Urban stress protection	Dual oxidative + inflammatory stress management for UV / pollution scenarios (mechanism-level evidence)

Application directions are development suggestions; specific efficacy claims must be based on finished-formula efficacy evaluations; evidence levels are annotated in each row.

18 · APPLICATIONS — SCALP CARE

Scalp-Care Applications: A Scalp-First Formulation Mindset

From “smoothing the hair fiber” to managing scalp ecology — this is the upgrade direction the scalp-care category is undergoing.

Scalp balance serum	Scalp sebum modulation and oil-environment management (supported by in-vitro 5α-reductase evidence)
Oil-control scalp serum	A fresh, water-based-compatible formula for oily scalps
Leave-on scalp lotion	A leave-on format covering follicular microenvironment management
Soothing scalp care	Inflammatory-signal modulation to help relieve scalp discomfort (animal + cell evidence)
Hair vitality essence	Follicular microenvironment + oxidative stress management supporting a healthy hair-growth environment (multi-ingredient clinical signal)
Anti-grease scalp care	Daily management of scalp oil oxidation and the flora environment

Compliance note: scalp applications focus on “scalp care” and the “hair vitality environment”; no anti-hair-loss, hair-growth, or hair-loss-treatment claims; multi-ingredient human study data serve only as directional mechanistic reference.

19 · CONCEPT SHOWCASE

Product Concept Examples

OleaXin™ Sebum Reset Serum

Sebum regulation + inflammatory balance + oxidative defense — a daily management serum for oily skin

OleaXin™ Clear Balance Essence

Environment management for blemish-prone skin: sebum balance + microbial environment + soothing

OleaXin™ Matrix Defense Serum

Upstream defense against oxidative stress and the matrix degradation cascade — anti-aging direction

OleaXin™ Scalp Balance Serum

A scalp-balancing serum covering scalp sebum + soothing + follicular microenvironment

OleaXin™ Follicular Vitality Essence

A leave-on scalp essence for oxidative stress + follicular environment + scalp vitality

Concept Design Principles

· Each concept maps to a defined combination of biological targets, not a pile-up of claims;· Concepts are development-direction examples only and contain no experimentally unverified formula ratios;· For use levels, compatibility, and stability data, refer to the PuriPharm TDS and formulation guide;· Finished-product efficacy claims are subject to the final product’s efficacy evaluation.

20 · VALUE SUMMARY

OleaXin™ Core Value: Three Pillars

PILLAR IMultifunctional Biology	PILLAR IIAdvanced Delivery	PILLAR IIIFormulation Value
Sebum regulation · inflammatory balanceOxidative stress defense · ECM protectionEpidermal homeostasis · scalp homeostasisA multi-target evidence chain, from in-vitro enzymology to human study signals	Phospholipid Nanogel delivery systemNanostructured presentationAqueous-system compatibilityChanging how the active exists in a formula, not the molecule itself	Flexible formats · easy dosingSkin & scalp dual-scenario coverageA nano-technology product narrativeFrom hard-to-formulate bioactive to ready-to-use advanced active

Bringing the scientific potential of oleanolic acid into modern formulations.UNLOCKING THE COSMETIC POTENTIAL OF OLEANOLIC ACID

21 · SELECTED REFERENCES

Key References and Patents

Peer-Reviewed Papers

[1] Kang YM, Kim HM, Lee M, An HJ. Oleanolic Acid Alleviates Atopic Dermatitis-like Responses In Vivo and In Vitro. Int J Mol Sci. 2021;22(21):12000. DOI:10.3390/ijms222112000[2] Lim SW, Hong SP, Jeong SW, et al. Simultaneous effect of ursolic acid and oleanolic acid on epidermal permeability barrier function and epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR-α. J Dermatol. 2007;34(8):625-634. DOI:10.1111/j.1346-8138.2007.00344.x[3] Wójciak-Kosior M, Paduch R, Matysik-Woźniak A, et al. The effect of ursolic and oleanolic acids on human skin fibroblast cells. Folia Histochem Cytobiol. 2011;49(4):664-669. DOI:10.5603/FHC.2011.0050[4] Garre A, Piquero J, Trullas C, Martinez G. Efficacy and Safety of a New Topical Hair Loss-Lotion Containing Oleanolic Acid, Apigenin, Biotinyl Tripeptide-1, Diaminopyrimidine Oxide, Adenosine, Biotin and Ginkgo biloba. J Cosmo Trichol. 2018;4(1):1000132. DOI:10.4172/2471-9323.1000132 (multi-ingredient blend)[5] Ayeleso TB, Matumba MG, Mukwevho E. Oleanolic Acid and Its Derivatives: Biological Activities and Therapeutic Potential in Chronic Diseases. Molecules. 2017;22(11):1915. DOI:10.3390/molecules22111915[6] Wang W, Li Y, Li Y, et al. Oleanolic Acid: Structural Modification and Biological Activities. Curr Top Med Chem. 2022;22(1). DOI:10.2174/1568026621666211105101231

Patents and Technical Documentation

[7] US 7,182,963 B2. Cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical compositions for skin prone to acne (contains in-vitro 5α-reductase enzymatic data for oleanolic acid; family: US 2006/0239957 A1)[8] US 2001/0029266 A1. Composition containing a pentacyclic triterpenic acid (solubilization of pentacyclic triterpenic acids)[9] WO 2017/021247 A1. Anti-hair loss lotion (hair-care composition containing oleanolic acid blends)[10] CN 103221028 B. Oleanolic acid liposome composition (collagen direction)[11] CN 103648502 B. Anti-inflammatory use of oleanolic acid acetate[12] Attached technical documentation: 28-day human efficacy test of an oleanolic acid-containing blend (gloss / pores / sebum flow, n≈20)

Disclaimer

This material is prepared by PuriPharm Co., Ltd. for cosmetic ingredient technical exchange only and constitutes no pharmaceutical or medical claims. In-vitro / animal study data do not represent finished-product human efficacy; third-party literature and patent data are cited as technical background only. Customers should independently verify the suitability and regulatory compliance of their finished formulations. PuriActives® and OleaXin™ are trademarks of PuriPharm Co., Ltd.

PuriPharm Co., Ltd. · www.puriactives.com · service@puripharm.com

PuriActives® ChitoQ

INCI: Chitosan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

A permanently cationic chitosan derivative that delivers conditioning, moisturization, and antimicrobial support for skin and hair through a single bio-based polymer.

For cosmetic formulators · R&D scientists · Product development and brand innovation teams

01 · FORMULATION CHALLENGE

An excellent biopolymer constrained by pH

The limitation of native chitosan

• Its amino-group charge exists only below pKa ≈ 6.3–6.5; above that range, both charge and solubility collapse.
• It requires acidic systems, limiting dosage-form choices and active-ingredient combinations.
• Its performance is weakest across the true pH range of skin and hair products (4.5–7).

New market requirements

• Bio-based, biodegradable conditioning polymers.
• Multifunctionality in one ingredient: conditioning + moisturization + microbial support.
• Rinse-resistant deposition without build-up or tackiness.

Sources: chitosan pKa and pH-dependent charge—J. Mater. Chem. B 2023; ACS Appl. Mater. Interfaces 2023.

02 · PRODUCT OVERVIEW

One molecule, two care categories.

PuriActives® ChitoQ is a quaternized chitosan: a marine-derived polysaccharide carrying permanent quaternary ammonium groups. It is water-compatible, permanently cationic, and multifunctional for both leave-on and rinse-off systems.

• Cationic affinity deposition on hair keratin and skin surfaces.
• Conditioning, cuticle smoothing, and anti-static performance.
• Moisturization benchmarked against hyaluronic acid.
• Broad-spectrum antimicrobial and anti-biofilm support.
• A bio-based, biodegradable alternative to synthetic polyquaterniums.

pH 3–10Maintains permanent cationic character across the formulation pH window	0.625 mg/mLMIC against Streptococcus mutans—90% growth inhibition in vitro
98.5%Degree of substitution in the current batch (specification ≥ 80%)	CosIngEU-listed INCI—functions: hair conditioning and humectant

Sources: Gao et al., Molecules 2024 (S. mutans, in vitro); EU CosIng database; Puripharm batch COA (May 2026).

03 · MOLECULAR DESIGN

From chitosan to ChitoQ: functional quaternization

Permanent cationic charge

Quaternary ammonium groups never deprotonate, preserving charge across the full cosmetic pH range.

True water compatibility

It dissolves directly in water without acidification—add it to the water phase and formulate freely.

Stronger surface affinity

Electrostatic binding to anionic keratin and skin surfaces drives affinity deposition and film formation.

The quaternization route follows the published synthesis of N-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride chitosan (Gao et al., Molecules 2024).

04 · PHYSICOCHEMICAL PROPERTIES

Positive charge at any formulation pH

Unconditional charge

Quaternary ammonium groups remain protonated from acidic to weakly alkaline media—affinity deposition no longer depends on pH.

Soluble where chitosan is not

High-substitution HACC forms clear aqueous solutions (transmittance >80% at 80% substitution)—no acidification or pre-dissolution required.

Built for deposition

High permanent charge density maximizes electrostatic interaction with anionic keratin and skin—the physical basis for conditioning and film formation.

Sources: ACS Appl. Mater. Interfaces 2023 (zeta potential of quaternized chitosan, pH 3–10); ACS Omega 2021 (QCS charge retention); Gao et al., Molecules 2024 (solubility).

05 · MECHANISM OF ACTION

Designed to bind precisely where damage occurs

1. Selective attraction: the isoelectric point of hair keratin is approximately 3.67. At cosmetic pH, hair carries a net negative charge, and damaged fibres are even more negatively charged.
2. Cationic deposition: ChitoQ adsorbs to anionic sites through electrostatic interaction, concentrating deposition where the fibre needs it most and resisting rinse-off.
3. Conditioning film: the bound polymer forms a smooth, hydrophilic film that lays cuticles flat, reduces friction and static, and helps retain surface moisture.

The same physical mechanism works on skin: an affinity, breathable cationic film binds water and supports the surface barrier—one mechanism, two categories.

Source: hair isoelectric point and cationic deposition mechanism—Gavazzoni Dias et al., On Hair Care Physicochemistry, Int. J. Trichology / PMC9921463.

EVIDENCE SECTION

Performance evidence

Quantified results from peer-reviewed research on ChitoQ chemistry, presented with transparent evidence grading.

A | Studies on ChitoQ chemistry itself (Chitosan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride)

B | Structurally similar quaternized chitosan—mechanistic support

C | General chitosan literature—physicochemical background

06 · HAIR-CARE PERFORMANCE

Affinity conditioning beyond rinse-off

A cationic film restores surface smoothness and shine.

Targeted deposition on damaged keratin [B]

The affinity of quaternized chitosan for hair keratin has been demonstrated, and its strengthening and conditioning effects have been documented since the earliest quaternized-chitosan patents.

Easier wet and dry combing [C]

The adsorbed film reduces inter-fibre friction, helps detangling, and reduces mechanical breakage during combing.

Anti-static and frizz control [C]

Charge neutralization plus a smoothing film minimizes static and seals cuticles against humidity-induced frizz.

Shine, softness, and color protection [C]

Flat cuticles reflect light evenly, while the protective film helps color resist washing and UV exposure.

Added scalp-care benefit [A]

Demonstrated antimicrobial activity extends the benefit from the hair fibre to the scalp environment.

Damaged hair has a lower isoelectric point and a denser negative surface charge, so cationic polymers deposit preferentially where repair is most needed.

Sources: US 4,772,689 (Lang et al., quaternized-chitosan affinity); PCACD 2024 review (chitosan hair care); Gao et al., Molecules 2024. See the evidence section for [A]/[B]/[C] grading.

07 · SKIN-CARE PERFORMANCE

Hyaluronic-acid-level moisturization

[A] HACC performs within the hyaluronic-acid range, and its ion-exchange derivative can reach 2.2× HA. At 43% RH, the HACC derivative also absorbed more moisture than HA (74–94% vs 32.4%, 48 h).

Dual water management

A surface rich in hydroxyl and quaternary ammonium groups binds water through hydrogen bonding, while the affinity film helps slow transepidermal water loss. [A/C]

Breathable barrier support

Chitosan films are non-occlusive: they buffer the stratum corneum against environmental stress while allowing skin to function normally. [C]

Sensory differentiation

The cationic film provides a distinctive smooth, cushioned after-feel—a humectant consumers can actually perceive. [C]

Sources: Mi et al., Polymers 2021 (PMC8307204)—in vitro comparison of moisture absorption/retention by HACC, its derivatives, and sodium hyaluronate; chitosan film/TEWL literature (PCACD 2024).

08 · ANTIMICROBIAL SUPPORT

A cationic mechanism acting on microbial surfaces

0.625 mg/mLMIC of N-2-HACC against S. mutans; 90.0% growth inhibition at the MIC [A]

> 90%Inhibition of E. coli and S. aureus by quaternized chitosan salts at 0.5 mg/mL [B]

BiofilmFormation is significantly inhibited, with activity increasing as substitution degree rises [A/B]

How the permanent charge works [A]

• Electrostatic binding to negatively charged cell envelopes.
• Increased cell-wall permeability (alkaline phosphatase leakage).
• Disrupted membrane integrity—visible pitting under SEM.
• Inhibited respiratory metabolism and protein/DNA synthesis.

Gentle, film-forming antimicrobial support for leave-on systems. Position it as preservative-boosting support; actual in-formula performance must be confirmed by preservative challenge testing.

Sources: [A] Gao et al., Molecules 2024 (N-2-HACC against S. mutans; MIC/SEM/biofilm); [B] Wang et al., Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 2024 (chitosan quaternary ammonium salts; E. coli/S. aureus).

09 · SAFETY AND MILDNESS

Cationic performance without the baggage

ChitoQ carries its charge on a high-molecular-weight polysaccharide backbone—it stays on the surface where it works, rather than penetrating like a small-molecule quaternary ammonium salt.

No cytotoxicity in cell testing [A]

HACC-based derivatives showed no significant toxicity toward L929 fibroblasts; independent literature describes N-2-HACC as having very low toxicity and high safety.

Bio-based and biodegradable [A/C]

The marine-derived polysaccharide backbone addresses sustainability and environmental-persistence concerns associated with traditional synthetic cationic polymers.

Built-in antioxidant benefit [A]

Beyond conditioning, HACC derivatives show free-radical scavenging activity (DPPH and superoxide anion).

A high-molecular-weight cationic biopolymer designed for surface action. Finished-formula suitability and regulatory compliance remain the responsibility of the product developer; a complete toxicology dossier is available upon request.

Sources: Han et al., Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 2024 (L929 cytotoxicity and antioxidant assays); Gao et al., Molecules 2024; Processes 2026 review (limitations of cationic systems).

10 · HAIR + SCALP SYNERGY

One functional biopolymer—two cosmetic interfaces

Hair fibre

• Targeted deposition [B]: cationic chains anchor to negatively charged damaged keratin sites.
• Cuticle smoothing [C]: the adsorbed film lays raised cuticles flat and reduces inter-fibre friction.
• Anti-static control [C]: charge neutralization tames static and humidity-induced frizz.
• Protective conditioning layer [B]: the affinity polymer film helps protect hair from daily mechanical damage.

Scalp

• Moisture management [B]: the humectant polysaccharide film helps retain water at the scalp surface.
• Surface comfort film [C]: an ultra-thin polymer layer provides a smooth, protected skin feel.
• Microenvironment support [A]: demonstrated antimicrobial activity supports scalp-care concepts.
• Formulation support [A]: water-phase compatibility simplifies scalp lotions, essences, and cleansing formulas.

The charge-affinity mechanism that conditions hair also serves the skin where hair grows.

See the evidence section for grading. Sources: Gao et al., Molecules 2024 [A]; Mi et al., Polymers 2021 [B]; US 4,772,689 [B].

11 · PERFORMANCE ARCHITECTURE

One polymer, six cosmetic functions.

01 CONDITION | Affinity cationic deposition

Permanent charge anchors the polymer to hair keratin and skin surfaces for rinse-resistant conditioning. [B]

02 SMOOTH | Film-forming surface refinement

An ultra-thin adsorbed film smooths cuticles and skin microrelief, reducing friction and roughness. [C]

03 HYDRATE | Water retention and binding

The hydrophilic polysaccharide structure binds water, with moisturization benchmarked against hyaluronic acid. [B]

04 PROTECT | Polymer protective interface

The deposited layer buffers hair fibres and skin surfaces against mechanical and environmental stress. [C]

05 CONTROL | Anti-static and manageability

Charge neutralization reduces static and makes wet and dry combing easier. [C]

06 SUPPORT | Skin and scalp-care functions

Demonstrated antimicrobial and moisturizing activity extends care from hair fibres to scalp and skin. [A]

Molecule → mechanism → performance → formulation → consumer benefit

The functional portfolio is limited to scientifically supported roles; see the evidence section for grading.

12 · APPLICATION OPPORTUNITIES

One ingredient, two care categories

Hair and scalp

• Conditioning shampoos—deposition without build-up; compatible with amphoteric surfactant systems.
• Rinse-off conditioners and masks—wet-combing slip, cuticle sealing, and shine.
• Leave-on anti-frizz serums/sprays—an anti-static film with humidity resistance.
• Scalp lotions—moisturization plus microbial-balance support.
• Color-care systems—film protection against wash-out and UV fading.

Face and body

• Moisturizing serums/essences—hyaluronic-acid-level hydration with a perceptibly cushioned skin feel.
• Moisturizers and barrier creams—a breathable film that slows water loss.
• Sheet-mask essences—affinity hydration that lasts after mask removal.
• Facial mists/toners—water-clear and non-tacky.
• Gentle cleansers—a conditioned after-feel with a microbial-support story.

Every concept inherits the same trio: affinity deposition · moisturization · microbial support

Concept directions are provided for development reference only; prototype formulas are available from the Puripharm application laboratory.

13 · FORMULATION GUIDE

Born for the water phase

Parameter	Guidance
INCI / form	Chitosan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride—off-white powder
Use level	Varies by dosage form—the Puripharm application laboratory provides system-specific starting recommendations
Solubility	Readily soluble in water across a broad pH window—no acidification required
Working pH	Functional pH 3–10; comfortable formulation range pH 4–8
Addition	Disperse in the water phase under moderate stirring until clear
Compatibility	Cationic—avoid strongly anionic surfactants/polymers; best paired with nonionic and amphoteric systems
Process tolerance	The polysaccharide backbone is stable; add below 80 °C to protect color and viscosity

Formulator notes

• Rinse-off products: deposit first, rinse second—affinity withstands dilution.
• Screen salts—high ionic strength compresses charge interactions.
• Brings light, elegant viscosity to aqueous systems.
• Pair with humectants (glycerin, betaine, PCA) to strengthen the hydration story.
• Confirm preservative synergy in the final base through challenge testing.

Prototype formulas (conditioning shampoo, moisturizing serum, and scalp lotion) are available from the Puripharm application laboratory.

Guidance is based on published physicochemical behavior of quaternized chitosan and Puripharm application experience; validate in the final formula.

14 · DIFFERENTIATION

A bio-based answer to synthetic cationic polymers

Dimension	PURIACTIVES® CHITOQ	Native chitosan	Synthetic polyquaterniums
Source	Marine-derived, bio-based	Marine-derived, bio-based	Petrochemical
Charge vs pH	Permanently cationic, pH 3–10	Only below pKa ≈ 6.5	Permanently cationic
Water compatibility	Direct dissolution, no acidification	Acidic media only	Good
Affinity	High—keratin and skin	Moderate, pH-limited	High
Multifunctionality	Conditioning + moisturization + antimicrobial support	Film-forming and moisturizing	Conditioning only
End of life	Biodegradable polysaccharide	Biodegradable	Persistence concern

Synthetic-grade performance with a biopolymer story—without naming any commercial competitor.

15 · QUALITY AND REGULATORY

Batch traceability—all 11 tests passed

Specification vs representative production batch

Test item	Specification	Batch result
Appearance	Off-white powder	Complies
Solubility	Soluble in deionized water	Complies
Moisture	≤ 10.0%	8.7%
Ash	≤ 1.0%	0.45%
pH (1% solution)	5.5–7.5	6.41
Viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20 °C)	Meets product claim	18 mPa·s
Degree of deacetylation	≥ 85.0%	89.2%
Degree of substitution	≥ 80.0%	98.5%
Arsenic (As)	≤ 4.0 mg/kg	Not detected (< 0.01)
Lead (Pb)	≤ 2.0 mg/kg	Not detected (< 0.02)
Water-insoluble matter	≤ 0.5%	0.03%

11 / 11All quality tests passed for the current production batch

98.5%Degree of substitution; specification ≥ 80%

NDArsenic and lead below detection limits (< 0.01 / < 0.02 mg/kg)

Regulatory identity

The INCI name Chitosan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride is listed in the EU CosIng database with hair-conditioning and humectant functions. Each batch is supplied with COA, TDS, and SDS.

Puripharm Co., Ltd. batch inspection report (May 2026); complete COA, TDS, and SDS are available upon request. EU CosIng listed functions: hair conditioning and humectant.

16 · SUMMARY

ChitoQ earns a place in your formula

Marine chitosan backbone → functional quaternization → water compatibility + permanent charge → biological surface binding → multifunctional performance

No more formulation compromise

Water compatibility across pH 3–10 ends the acidic-system constraint of native chitosan.

Performance that stays

Permanent cationic affinity delivers rinse-resistant conditioning and moisturization.

A cleaner label story

Bio-based, biodegradable, and clean in cell testing—a credible successor to synthetic polyquaterniums.

Honestly graded evidence

ChitoQ-specific data lead the story; related quaternized-chitosan and chitosan literature is clearly labeled.

One SKU, three functions

Conditioning, moisturization, and antimicrobial support simplify formulas and strengthen claims.

End-to-end support

Specifications, dossiers, and prototype formulas travel with the ingredient—not as an afterthought.

ChitoQ turns an exceptional biopolymer into a reliable formulation tool.

PURIPHARM CO., LTD.

Let’s build the next generation of care products together.

Request PuriActives® ChitoQ samples, specifications, safety dossiers, and prototype formulas.

Website	www.puriactives.com
Email	service@puripharm.com
Phone	+86-572-2745768
Address	Building 6, No. 1366 Hongfeng Road, Huzhou, Zhejiang, China

PuriActives® and ChitoQ® are registered trademarks of Puripharm Co., Ltd. This presentation introduces a cosmetic ingredient only and contains no drug claims. In vitro and third-party literature data are identified and do not represent clinical performance of finished products.