01 · THE STARTING POINT
The niacinamide paradox
Powerful biology — yet inseparable from the water phase.
Niacinamide — the amide form of vitamin B3 — is one of the best-documented multifunctional cosmetic actives, driving epidermal energy metabolism as a precursor of the NAD+/NADP+ coenzymes. Its physicochemical nature, however, makes it extremely hydrophilic:
· Readily soluble in water, almost insoluble in non-polar oils (logP≈−0.4)
· No molecular affinity for lipid phases — whenever water is present, it partitions into the water phase
· Once deprived of an aqueous environment, it re-crystallizes
· Traditional formulas must therefore carry a water phase or solubilizers
Physicochemical data: PubChem CID 936 (Niacinamide).
Formats that conventional niacinamide struggles to enter
Facial oil serums & oil essences · Anhydrous concentrates & balms · Lipid-rich barrier-repair formulas · Oil-continuous emulsions · Functional cleansing oils · Premium scalp & hair oils
The limitation is not biological — it is a delivery-engineering problem.
02 · MARKET CONTEXT
The rise of active oil-based beauty
Oil-based skincare is moving beyond simple emollience and occlusion. Barrier science, anhydrous formats and the “skinification” of scalp care are redefining what lipid-based products are expected to deliver.
01Barrier-first skincare — lipid replenishment becomes a core claim
02The facial-oil renaissance — from finishing step to efficacy step
03Scalp & hair “skinification” — facial-grade actives move to the scalp
04Anhydrous formulation — concentrated, minimalist architectures
05Premium sensorial textures — lipid richness as a signifier of efficacy
THE EMERGING PRODUCT ARCHITECTURE
Lipid base ＋ functional actives ＋ advanced delivery technology
A new generation of oil-based skin, scalp and hair care.
The long-missing link — a water-soluble active that can work in the oil phase.
PURIPHARM · PRODUCT LAUNCH
A water-soluble active — new possibilities in the oil phase.
NanoActive OleoNia™
An oil-compatible niacinamide delivery system: through a lipid-associated form, it re-engineers how a classic water-soluble active exists — allowing facial oil serums, anhydrous concentrates, balms and oil-rich scalp care to carry niacinamide biology for the first time.
Nano-lipid vesicle structure — the delivery core of NanoActive OleoNia™.
INCI name Niacinamide
Technology platform PURISOME® FlexVes™ liposome technology
Product line NanoActive™
03 · THE TECHNOLOGY
From water-soluble to oil-compatible
Constraints of the conventional route
· Hydrophilic molecules dissolve only where a water phase exists
· In anhydrous oils they persist as undissolved crystalline solid
· Phase separation and uneven distribution follow
· No inherent affinity for the lipid environment of skin or formula
The OLEONIA™ approach
· Skin-affine phospholipids build an amphiphilic vesicle structure
· The hydrophilic active is compartmentalized inside the vesicle core
· A lipid-compatible outer interface allows dispersion in the oil phase
· Uniform incorporation in oil-continuous systems
Schematic: the hydrophilic active resides inside a lipid-assembled carrier, turning a water-dependent molecule into an oil-dispersible system.
03 · THE TECHNOLOGY
Vesicle architecture — PURISOME® FlexVes™ technology
Phospholipid bilayer vesicle (aqueous core) · schematic. Image: PuriPharm technical library.
1. Amphiphilic bilayer membrane.Skin-affine phospholipids self-assemble into a closed bilayer, following the same organizing principle as epidermal barrier lipids.
2. Active compartmentalization.Hydrophilic niacinamide is located in the vesicle core — physically separated from the surrounding oil-continuous phase.
3. Lipid-compatible outer interface.The outer membrane presents a non-polar surface, letting the carrier disperse uniformly in oils and lipid-rich bases.
4. Flexible-vesicle engineering.The FlexVes™ membrane design optimizes vesicle deformability and stratum-corneum affinity — properties the literature links to enhanced skin deposition.
FOUR PLATFORM FUNCTIONS
Active protection → enhanced skin deposition → sustained availability → formula & sensory compatibility
Honeywell-Nguyen PL, Bouwstra JA. Drug Discov Today Technol. 2005;2(1):67–74. · Bouwstra JA, Honeywell-Nguyen PL. Adv Drug Deliv Rev. 2002;54(Suppl 1):S41–S55.
03 · THE TECHNOLOGY
Core technical benefits — three pillars
01Expanded formulation freedom
· Facial oil serums, oil essences and lipid concentrates
· Anhydrous balms and active concentrates
· Oil-continuous and lipid-rich emulsions
· Premium oil-based scalp and hair formats
02Enhanced delivery potential
· Vesicle lipids show affinity for stratum-corneum lipid domains
· Supports active deposition and local retention
· The follicular pathway offers a sustained-release reservoir
03Improved active stability
· Compartmentalization isolates the active from the continuous phase
· Less direct contact with reactive co-ingredients
· Uniform distribution — no crystallization in low-water systems
Delivery and stability advantages are based on published vesicle science (platform-level evidence). This presentation claims no product-specific performance data; NanoActive OleoNia™ experimental data are provided in the product’s technical documentation.
03 · THE TECHNOLOGY
Expanded formulation freedom
Formats once impractical for water-soluble niacinamide become routine formulation choices.
| Format | Conventional niacinamide | NanoActive OleoNia™ |
|---|---|---|
| Facial oil serums & oil essences | Insoluble; re-crystallizes in the oil phase | Oil-dispersible active system, uniformly incorporated |
| Anhydrous concentrates & balms | No water phase to dissolve the active | Stably compartmentalized in the lipid base |
| Oil-continuous & lipid-rich emulsions | Confined to a minimal inner water phase | Positioned within the formula’s lipid domains |
| Functional cleansing oils | Incompatible with anhydrous rinse-off bases | Gives cleansing oils an efficacy positioning |
| Scalp & hair oils | Aqueous actives incompatible with oil carriers | Oil-based delivery to the scalp and follicular environment |
Formulation statements describe the platform’s delivery principle; dosage and processing guidance are given in the product’s technical documentation.
04 · ACTIVE BIOLOGY
Niacinamide biology — one molecule, five pathways
Niacinamide — precursor of the NAD+/NADP+ coenzymes — the “metabolic currency” driving epidermal energy production, repair and differentiation.
Skin barrier — promotes ceramide and stratum-corneum lipid biosynthesis; reduces transepidermal water loss.
Tanno et al. Br J Dermatol. 2000 · Soma et al. Int J Dermatol. 2005
Skin tone & pigmentation — acts downstream of tyrosinase, inhibiting melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes.
Hakozaki et al. Br J Dermatol. 2002
Skin aging — supports cellular energy metabolism; improves elasticity, fine lines and sallowness in clinical testing.
Bissett et al. Dermatol Surg. 2005
Sebum & pores — reduces facial sebum production; improves oily skin and pore appearance.
Draelos et al. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2006
Inflammation — non-antibiotic anti-inflammatory activity; soothes visible redness and erythema.
Shalita et al. Int J Dermatol. 1995 · Bissett et al. 2004
Mechanistic reviews: Wohlrab J, Kreft D. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(6):311–315. · Boo YC. Antioxidants. 2021;10(8):1315.
04 · ACTIVE BIOLOGY
Skin barrier — rebuilding the lipid “mortar”
As an NAD+/NADP+ precursor, niacinamide powers keratinocyte energy metabolism and epidermal differentiation — the engine of barrier-lipid synthesis.
Ceramide biosynthesis.Niacinamide promotes de novo synthesis of ceramides and other stratum-corneum lipids in human keratinocytes, improving epidermal permeability-barrier function.
Less water loss.Topical 2% niacinamide reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in atopic dry skin, outperforming a white-petrolatum control.
Delivery synergy.The lipid carrier echoes the barrier’s own chemistry — ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol arranged in lamellae.
Tanno O et al. Br J Dermatol. 2000;143(3):524–531. · Soma Y et al. Int J Dermatol. 2005;44(3):197–202. · Brick-and-mortar schematic: PuriPharm.
An active that builds barrier lipids — delivered in a carrier built from barrier-like lipids.
04 · ACTIVE BIOLOGY
Brightening — blocking melanosome transfer
A downstream mechanism.Niacinamide does not inhibit tyrosinase; it acts on pigment distribution — the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes. In melanocyte–keratinocyte co-culture models, melanosome transfer was inhibited by 35–68%.
Reversible and cell-safe.The inhibition is reversible and non-cytotoxic — physiological tone modulation, not melanocyte toxicity.
Clinically visible.After 4 weeks of use, hyperpigmentation was significantly reduced and skin brightness improved versus vehicle control.
Hakozaki T et al. Br J Dermatol. 2002;147(1):20–31. · Greatens A et al. Exp Dermatol. 2005;14(7):498–508.
Split-face randomized controlled trial in melasma (n = 27, 8 weeks)
Navarrete-Solís J et al. Dermatol Res Pract. 2011;2011:379173. Depigmenting efficacy comparable to hydroquinone, with fewer adverse effects.
Tone correction that respects melanocyte biology.
04 · ACTIVE BIOLOGY
Anti-aging — energy, elasticity, even tone
The key aging study
Design.Double-blind, left–right randomized split-face trial; 50 women with clinical signs of photoaging; 5% niacinamide versus vehicle, twice daily for 12 weeks; imaging and instrumental measurements every 4 weeks.
Mechanistic basis.NAD+/NADP+ coenzymes sustain cellular energy and repair; antioxidant defense counters the protein glycation linked to sallow tone; epidermal renewal is supported for refined texture.
Endpoints significantly improved
Fine lines & wrinkles · hyperpigmented spots · red blotchiness · skin sallowness · elasticity (cutometry)
All endpoints significant versus vehicle control.
Bissett DL et al. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(Suppl 1):860–865. · Bissett DL et al. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2004;26(5):231–238.
One gentle active improving five signs of facial aging.
04 · ACTIVE BIOLOGY
Sebum, pores and acne-prone skin
Sebum regulation.2% niacinamide significantly lowered sebum excretion rate after 2–4 weeks (Japanese cohort) and reduced skin-surface sebum after 6 weeks (Caucasian cohort).
Pore appearance.Less sebum output means less follicular distension — the mechanical driver of enlarged pores.
Acne-prone skin.4% niacinamide gel showed anti-inflammatory efficacy comparable to 1% clindamycin gel in moderate inflammatory acne — without antibiotic-resistance concerns.
Draelos ZD et al. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2006;8(2):96–101. · Shalita AR et al. Int J Dermatol. 1995;34(6):434–437.
Double-blind randomized controlled trial in inflammatory acne (n = 76, 8 weeks)
Shalita AR et al. Int J Dermatol. 1995;34(6):434–437. No statistically significant difference between groups — equivalent efficacy.
Oil control and soothing — without the antibiotic route.
04 · ACTIVE BIOLOGY
Soothing and skin resilience
Barrier improvement and anti-inflammatory activity converge here — niacinamide matters as much for reactive, redness-prone skin as for aging or oily skin.
Red blotchiness — after 12 weeks of topical 5% niacinamide, facial red blotchiness was significantly reduced.
Bissett et al. Dermatol Surg. 2005
Rosacea-prone skin — a niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improved barrier function and clinical signs in these subjects.
Draelos et al. Cutis. 2005;76(2):135–141
Inflammatory-cell infiltrate — topical 4% niacinamide reduced mast-cell infiltrate and improved solar elastosis in melasma-skin histology.
Navarrete-Solís et al. Dermatol Res Pract. 2011
Stress signaling — mitigates environment-induced, senescence-associated inflammatory signaling in epidermal keratinocytes.
Bierman et al. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2020;42(5):501–511
Oxidative defense — supports endogenous antioxidant capacity via NADPH-linked redox pathways.
Boo YC. Antioxidants. 2021;10(8):1315
05 · CLINICAL EVIDENCE
Human clinical evidence for niacinamide
| Study | Design | Dose & duration | Key results |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bissett 2005 | Split-face RCT, vehicle-controlled (n = 50) | 5%, 12 weeks | Fine lines, elasticity, spots, erythema and sallowness all improved |
| Bissett 2004 | RCT, vehicle-controlled | 5%, 12 weeks | Yellowing, wrinkles, red blotchiness and spots reduced |
| Hakozaki 2002 | Vehicle-controlled clinical + co-culture study | 5%, 4–8 weeks | Pigmentation reduced; skin brightness increased |
| Navarrete-Solís 2011 | Split-face RCT in melasma (n = 27) | 4% vs 4% hydroquinone, 8 weeks | Comparable depigmentation; fewer adverse effects (18% vs 29%) |
| Draelos 2006 | Two controlled cohorts (Japanese / Caucasian) | 2%, 4–6 weeks | Sebum excretion rate / surface sebum levels reduced |
| Shalita 1995 | Double-blind RCT in inflammatory acne (n = 76) | 4% gel vs 1% clindamycin, 8 weeks | Comparable improvement; lesion count −60% vs −43% |
| Soma 2005 | Controlled study, atopic dry skin | 2%, 4–8 weeks | TEWL reduced; barrier function improved |
Full citations on the references page. RCT = randomized controlled trial; TEWL = transepidermal water loss.
06 · DELIVERY SCIENCE
Why lipid delivery matters
Skin cross-sections under confocal laser scanning microscopy: smaller lipid carriers (a → c) show progressively deeper skin distribution. Image: PuriPharm technical library.
A note on the evidence
This page presents platform-level vesicle literature — the delivery rationale behind the engineering of NanoActive OleoNia™, not product-specific measurements.
Vesicle–skin interaction — phospholipid vesicles adsorb onto and intermix with stratum-corneum lipid domains, promoting intimate carrier–skin contact.
Bouwstra JA, Honeywell-Nguyen PL. Adv Drug Deliv Rev. 2002;54(Suppl 1):S41–S55
Size determines depth — liposome particle size directly influences dermal delivery depth; smaller vesicles deposit their payload into deeper skin layers.
Verma DD et al. Int J Pharm. 2003;258(1–2):141–151
The follicular reservoir — particulate carriers preferentially accumulate in hair follicles, persisting far longer than on the skin surface and extending local availability.
Lademann J et al. Eur J Pharm Biopharm. 2007;66(2):159–164
Delivery engineering turns a soluble molecule into a depositable active.
06 · DELIVERY SCIENCE
Stability and formulation advantages
The fragility of free niacinamide
· Amide hydrolysis: converts to nicotinic acid under acidic pH and heat — causing transient flushing and stinging
· Direct, unprotected contact with reactive co-ingredients in the water phase
· Crystallization and local concentration gradients in low-water systems
The engineered response
· A compartmentalized core isolates the active from the continuous phase
· The lipid microenvironment buffers interfacial pH exposure at the molecular scale
· Uniform dispersion eliminates crystallization pathways
· A structural barrier against oxidation and interfacial stress during storage
The occlusive effect.Fine lipid carriers form a closely adherent film on the skin surface, reducing evaporative water loss and supporting stratum-corneum hydration — a further formulation-level delivery advantage. Image: PuriPharm technical library.
Gehring W. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2004;3(2):88–93. · Mechanistic review: Boo YC. Antioxidants. 2021;10(8):1315.
07 · FORMULATION CONCEPT
From “passive oils” to “active lipid systems”
08 · SCALP & HAIR
Scalp and hair — niacinamide beyond the face
Scalp is skin.Barrier-lipid synthesis, sebum dynamics and oxidative stress follow the same biology as facial skin — exactly what niacinamide targets.
Follicular targeting.Particulate carriers preferentially deposit in hair follicles and persist as long-lived reservoirs — a natural entry route for oil-based scalp products.
Follicle-cell evidence.In cultured human dermal papilla cells, niacinamide lowered oxidative-stress markers and down-regulated DKK-1, a signal associated with follicle regression (in vitro).
Honest evidence positioning.Facial benefits are clinically established; scalp-specific benefits are mechanistic and still emerging — a credible basis for “barrier-first” scalp care, not a hair-growth claim.
Size-dependent follicular deposition of particulate carriers
The follicular pathway to the perifollicular environment
Images — PuriPharm technical library.
Suitable formats
Scalp serum oils · pre-wash oil treatments · leave-on scalp essences · hair oils · conditioning concentrates · overnight scalp care
Lademann J et al. Eur J Pharm Biopharm. 2007;66(2):159–164. · Choi YH et al. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2021;14:1519–1528.
09 · APPLICATION CONCEPTS
Formulation opportunities
Skin care
· Facial oil serums — the hero format: pure oil bases carrying niacinamide biology
· Oil serums / bi-phase serums — lipid essences with an efficacy positioning
· Anhydrous active concentrates — minimalist water-free architectures
· Nourishing balms & overnight lipid treatments — intensified barrier care
· Barrier-repair & rich anti-aging creams — lipid-rich emulsion systems
· Brightening oil serums — tone correction in premium sensory bases
· Eye-area lipid serums · functional cleansing oils — delicate-zone and rinse-off concepts
Scalp & hair
· Scalp serum oils — follicle-targeted, barrier-first scalp care
· Pre-wash oil treatments — a barrier primer before shampooing
· Leave-on scalp essences — sustained follicular contact
· Hair oils — shine products with a scalp-care positioning
· Anti-aging scalp concentrates — an oxidative-stress defense story
· Overnight scalp treatments — long-contact reservoir strategy
Concept-level positioning; dosage, processing and compatibility guidance are given in the product’s technical documentation.
10 · DIFFERENTIATION
Conventional niacinamide vs NanoActive OleoNia™
| Dimension | Conventional niacinamide | NanoActive OleoNia™ |
|---|---|---|
| Form in formula | Dissolved only in the water phase | Lipid-associated vesicular dispersion |
| Anhydrous suitability | Unsuitable — re-crystallizes without water | Designed for anhydrous systems |
| Oil compatibility | Incompatible without solubilizers or emulsification | Incorporates uniformly into the oil phase |
| Deposition behavior | Surface delivery dependent on hydration | Vesicle-supported deposition; follicular reservoir pathway |
| Stability strategy | Relies on bulk-solution pH and temperature control | Compartmental isolation shields the active from the base |
| Positioning | Commodity water-phase active | Premium delivery-system ingredient |
Deposition and stability characteristics reflect platform-level vesicle-delivery literature, not product-specific comparative testing.
PURIPHARM · KEY TAKEAWAYS
A new formulation dimension for niacinamide
The technology spans
Niacinamide biology + lipid-based formulation + advanced delivery science
And thereby delivers
· Broader formulation freedom — oil serums, anhydrous concentrates, balms, oil-rich scalp care
· Greater delivery potential — vesicle–skin affinity, deposition, follicular reservoir
· Better formulation stability — compartmentalized, uniform, crystallization-free
· A new generation of oil-based skin and scalp care — from passive oils to active lipid systems
NanoActive OleoNia™ · PURISOME® FlexVes™ liposome technologyPuriPharm Co. Ltd. · www.puriactives.com
11 · REFERENCES
References
1. Tanno O, Ota Y, Kitamura N, Katsube T, Inoue S. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. Br J Dermatol. 2000;143(3):524–531.
2. Hakozaki T, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol. 2002;147(1):20–31.
3. Greatens A, et al. Effective inhibition of melanosome transfer to keratinocytes by lectins and niacinamide is reversible. Exp Dermatol. 2005;14(7):498–508.
4. Bissett DL, Miyamoto K, Sun P, Li J, Berge CA. Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2004;26(5):231–238.
5. Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Berge CA. Niacinamide: a B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(Suppl 1):860–865.
6. Draelos ZD, Matsubara A, Smiles K. The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2006;8(2):96–101.
7. Shalita AR, Smith JG, Parish LC, Sofman MS, Chalker DK. Topical nicotinamide compared with clindamycin gel in the treatment of inflammatory acne vulgaris. Int J Dermatol. 1995;34(6):434–437.
8. Navarrete-Solís J, et al. A double-blind, randomized clinical trial of niacinamide 4% versus hydroquinone 4% in the treatment of melasma. Dermatol Res Pract. 2011;2011:379173.
9. Soma Y, et al. Moisturizing effects of topical nicotinamide on atopic dry skin. Int J Dermatol. 2005;44(3):197–202.
10. Draelos ZD, Ertel K, Berge C. Niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improves skin barrier and benefits subjects with rosacea. Cutis. 2005;76(2):135–141.
11. Gehring W. Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2004;3(2):88–93.
12. Wohlrab J, Kreft D. Niacinamide — mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(6):311–315.
13. Boo YC. Mechanistic basis and clinical evidence for the applications of nicotinamide (niacinamide) to control skin aging and pigmentation. Antioxidants. 2021;10(8):1315.
14. Bierman JC, et al. Niacinamide mitigates SASP-related inflammation induced by environmental stressors in human epidermal keratinocytes and skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2020;42(5):501–511.
15. Honeywell-Nguyen PL, Bouwstra JA. Vesicles as a tool for transdermal and dermal delivery. Drug Discov Today Technol. 2005;2(1):67–74.
16. Bouwstra JA, Honeywell-Nguyen PL. Skin structure and mode of action of vesicles. Adv Drug Deliv Rev. 2002;54(Suppl 1):S41–S55.
17. Verma DD, Verma S, Blume G, Fahr A. Particle size of liposomes influences dermal delivery of substances into skin. Int J Pharm. 2003;258(1–2):141–151.
18. Lademann J, et al. Nanoparticles — an efficient carrier for drug delivery into the hair follicles. Eur J Pharm Biopharm. 2007;66(2):159–164.
19. Vogt A, et al. 40 nm, but not 750 or 1,500 nm, nanoparticles enter epidermal CD1a+ cells after transcutaneous application on human skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2006;126(6):1316–1322.
20. Choi YH, Shin JY, Kim J, Kang NG, Lee S. Niacinamide down-regulates the expression of DKK-1 and protects cells from oxidative stress in cultured human dermal papilla cells. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2021;14:1519–1528.
21. Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of niacinamide and niacin. Int J Toxicol. 2005;24(Suppl 5):1–31.
Image credits — vesicle schematic, confocal micrographs, follicular-targeting schematics — PuriPharm technical library (company archive).