PURIPHARM CO. LTD. · SCIENTIFIC PRODUCT PRESENTATION · TECHNICAL MARKETING MATERIAL
PuriActives® PuriNMF
Polyamino Sugar Condensate
NMF-Inspired Hydration Conditioning · For Skin and Hair
INCI NAME POLYAMINO SUGAR CONDENSATE
CAS NUMBER 120022-92-6
AUDIENCE Cosmetic R&D · Formulation · Technical Marketing
THE HYDRATION CHALLENGE
Why Hydration Is the Core Question
Why water management matters equally for skin and hair
Skin
A water-gradient tissue. The stratum corneum is driest at the surface, with water content rising toward the viable epidermis; its mechanical softness depends precisely on that water.
Water is lost continuously. Low humidity, seasonal change, and frequent cleansing all make the stratum corneum lose water faster than it can be replenished.
Skin feel tracks hydration. As water content falls, corneocytes lose plasticity — skin feels tight, rough, and no longer supple.
Hair and Scalp
A non-living keratin fiber. Hair cannot repair itself; its softness, flexibility, and manageability are governed by water status and surface condition.
Damage accumulates. Chemical treatments, heat styling, and UV lift the cuticle, increase inter-fiber friction, and alter moisture-uptake behavior.
The scalp is skin too. The same stratum-corneum hydration logic applies where the hair is rooted.
Behind skin feel and hair feel lies one shared variable: the hydration state of keratin.
PRODUCT OVERVIEW
PuriActives® PuriNMF at a Glance
Sugar-derived + amino-acid-derived humectant chemistry in one ingredient system
PuriActives® PuriNMF is a condensed cosmetic ingredient system that unites sugar-derived hydrophilic functionality with amino-acid-derived functionality — designed for water management and conditioning of skin, scalp, and hair.
| INCI | POLYAMINO SUGAR CONDENSATE |
| CAS No. | 120022-92-6 |
| Positioning | NMF-inspired hydration conditioning |
Core Benefit Pillars
01 Attracts water
02 Retains water
03 Keratin conditioning
04 Skin softness & suppleness
05 Hair softness & manageability
06 Scalp hydration
07 For rinse-off and leave-on systems
Positioning statement: PuriNMF is designed in line with the biological logic of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF); its chemical composition is not identical to endogenous NMF.
THE INGREDIENT
What Is Polyamino Sugar Condensate?
Ingredient identity, cosmetic function, and ingredient heritage
Ingredient identity — a condensate of sugar-derived and amino-acid-derived structural units, supplied as a single cosmetic ingredient under a single INCI name.
Cosmetic function — humectant and skin-conditioning chemistry: a dense array of polar functional groups provides multiple water-association sites at the keratin interface.
Heritage and safety precedent — a well-established cosmetic ingredient with a long history of use. Its safety was assessed in a published JACT report (1982) and reviewed again in 2023 by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel.
| Ingredient Identity at a Glance | |
|---|---|
| INCI | POLYAMINO SUGAR CONDENSATE |
| CAS No. | 120022-92-6 |
| Ingredient class | Sugar–amino-acid condensate |
| Cosmetic function | Humectant · Skin conditioning |
| Safety precedent | JACT 1982 · CIR 2023 re-review |
Final Report of the Safety Assessment of Polyamino Sugar Condensate. J Am Coll Toxicol. 1982;1(4):25–32. · Raj PS, et al. Int J Toxicol. 2023;42(3 Suppl):91S–92S.
NMF SCIENCE
NMF: Skin’s Endogenous Moisturizing System
Filaggrin proteolysis generates amino-acid chemistry that locks water into the stratum corneum
Filaggrin → proteolysis in the upper epidermis → release of free amino acids → formation of NMF components such as PCA → water binding within corneocytes → corneocyte plasticity maintained → supple, smooth skin
Layered structure of the epidermis. Illustration: OpenStax, Anatomy & Physiology, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0.
Positioning note: PuriNMF is an NMF-inspired design — built around amino-acid and sugar humectant chemistry; its composition is not identical to endogenous NMF.
What NMF does: stratum corneum hydration · water retention · keratin flexibility · corneocyte mechanics · surface smoothness
NMF SCIENCE
Amino Acids and Water Binding
NMF composition and its role in keratin hydration
| Approximate NMF Composition · Component | Share |
|---|---|
| Free amino acids | ≈ 40% |
| Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) | ≈ 12% |
| Lactate | ≈ 12% |
| Sugars | ≈ 8.5% |
| Urea | ≈ 7% |
| Inorganic ions and others | Remainder |
Approximate shares of NMF dry weight. Source: Rawlings AV, Harding CR. Dermatol Ther. 2004;17(Suppl 1):43–48.
Amino-acid-derived solutes bind water inside corneocytes and keep keratin flexible — the biochemical foundation of a soft, smooth skin surface.
Raman depth profiling: NMF concentrates in the upper stratum corneum. Semi-quantitative NMF concentration versus stratum-corneum depth, placebo (A) versus an NMF-containing formulation (B). Figure: Schleusener J, et al. Molecules. 2021;26(6):1649. DOI: 10.3390/molecules26061649.
Why it matters: the NMF-rich upper stratum corneum is exactly where dryness is felt first. Hydration strategies acting at this interface address the sensory core of dry skin.
NMF SCIENCE
Sugar Chemistry and Hydration
Hydroxyl-rich systems interact with water through dense hydrogen-bonding functionality
Hydroxyl-rich water interaction — sugar-derived units carry dense hydroxyl (–OH) groups. Each –OH can form hydrogen bonds with water molecules, associating water at the keratin interface.
Hygroscopic buffering — sugar-derived systems slow evaporation by lowering surface water activity, helping the stratum corneum hold onto water in dry environments.
Evidence Note — Drying Model
An in vitro Raman desorption study showed that a natural sugar-derived complex — most pronounced in combination with glycerol — increased total, partially bound, and unbound water at the skin surface and at 8 µm stratum-corneum depth over a 6-hour drying period.
Sugar-derived systems can prolong water retention during drying.
Fluhr JW, et al. J Biophotonics. 2023;16:e202200201. DOI: 10.1002/jbio.202200201. Ingredient-class evidence, not PuriNMF product data.
MECHANISTIC MODEL
The PuriNMF Hydration-Conditioning Model
A two-dimensional functional model — from condensate chemistry to conditioned keratin
A functional mechanistic model based on ingredient-class scientific principles — not a chemical structure, and not product-specific efficacy data.
WATER-BINDING SCIENCE
Hydration Is More Than Surface Water
Distinct water states together define stratum-corneum hydration
Tightly bound water — closely associated with the polar sites of keratin and NMF — the structural water that maintains corneocyte plasticity.
Partially bound water — weakly associated, exchangeable water — a buffering pool that responds to the environment and the formulation.
Mobile / unbound water — freely moving water — the first fraction to evaporate, and the hardest to keep without humectant support.
Measurement is key. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy can resolve these water states along stratum-corneum depth — making hydration measurable below the surface.
In vivo confocal Raman spectra of human stratum corneum — fingerprint region (A) and high-wavenumber region (B). The 3,000–3,700 cm⁻¹ water band is the analytical basis for resolving water states.
Formulation implication: ingredients that raise the bound-water fraction — not just total water — support a hydration state that persists between applications.
Figures: Schleusener J, et al. Molecules. 2021;26(6):1649. · Fluhr JW, et al. J Biophotonics. 2023;16:e202200201.
EVIDENCE FOCUS
Water Binding Reaches Below the Surface
In vivo Raman depth profiling of formulations containing NMF components
Relative tightly bound water content versus stratum-corneum depth after placebo (C) and an NMF-component formulation (D), over 14 days of follow-up. Black: untreated control. Figure (panels C–D): Schleusener J, et al. Molecules. 2021;26(6):1649. DOI: 10.3390/molecules26061649. Ingredient-class evidence, not PuriNMF product data.
After twice-daily use of a formulation containing NMF components, tightly bound water increased in the superficial stratum corneum — the zone where dryness is first perceived.
A complementary Raman desorption study points the same way for sugar-derived systems: higher total, partially bound, and unbound water under drying stress.
Key point: NMF and sugar humectant chemistry acts on bound water — below the surface, not merely at it.
Fluhr JW, et al. J Biophotonics. 2023;16:e202200201.
FROM WATER TO TOUCH
From Water Retention to Skin Feel
The mechanical meaning of a hydrated stratum corneum
01 Water associates with the polar sites of keratin and NMF components.
02 Corneocytes swell with water, stay plastic, and resist brittle fracture on bending.
03 The stratum corneum softens — surface roughness and the feeling of tightness recede.
04 Skin feels soft and smooth — the sensory endpoint of hydration.
Lateral (A–B) and lamellar (C–D) organization of intercellular lipids along stratum-corneum depth — Raman-based structural parameters. Figure: Schleusener J, et al. Molecules. 2021;26(6):1649. DOI: 10.3390/molecules26061649.
Barrier context: ordered lateral packing of intercellular lipids locks water in place — hydration and lipid organization work as one system.
SKINCARE POSITIONING
PuriNMF for Skin
Hydration · Softness · Conditioning — a structured skin-benefit platform
A HYDRATIONSupports water attraction and retention at the stratum-corneum interface.
B SOFTNESSMaintains a softer, more supple stratum-corneum feel.
C CONDITIONINGProvides a hydrated surface environment compatible with care concepts for dry, stressed skin.
D POST-CLEANSING COMFORTSuited to cleansing systems where tightness and dryness are formulation challenges.
E NMF-INSPIRED CAREA strong science-marketing bridge to endogenous moisturizing biology.
F DRY-SKIN APPLICATIONSFor dry skin, seasonal dryness, low-humidity environments, frequent cleansing, mature skin, body care, hand care, and barrier-oriented formulations.
One ingredient platform across leave-on skincare and rinse-off cleansing systems.
SKIN — PUBLISHED PRECEDENT
Post-Cleansing Care Applications
Published patent literature on Polyamino Sugar Condensate in topical cleansing/conditioning compositions
EP 0 535 789 A2
Topical cleansing and conditioning compositions
This published application discloses topical cleansing and conditioning compositions containing Polyamino Sugar Condensate, covering its use in skin-cleansing systems with a conditioning benefit. It establishes a direct documentary link between this ingredient and rinse-off skin-conditioning concepts.
What it supports
· Cosmetic humectant use of the ingredient · Skin-conditioning positioning
· Relevance in cleansing formulations · Suitability for rinse-off products
What it is not
· Not clinical evidence for PuriNMF · Not an efficacy study of a PuriPharm finished product
EP0535789A2. Cited as a published formulation precedent; the patentee is deliberately omitted. Patent disclosure ≠ clinical proof.
HAIR SCIENCE
Hair Is a Keratin Fiber
Fiber structure, surface condition, and how damage shows up
SEM of a human hair fiber: overlapping cuticle scales (×1.0k, scale bar 50 µm). Image: CSIRO ScienceImage 8115, CC BY 3.0.
Hair damage can appear as
Lifted cuticle · increased surface roughness · higher friction · altered moisture-uptake behavior · brittleness · loss of flexibility · poor manageability
Hair-fiber cross-section (schematic): cuticle (protective scales) · cortex (keratin-rich matrix) · medulla (when present)
Intercellular regions hold the structure together.
What determines fiber feel is surface condition and moisture behavior — not color or styling.
HAIRCARE POSITIONING
PuriNMF for Hair
Hydration · Softness · Flexibility · Manageability
Water association — supports hydration at the hair-surface interface.
Soft touch — helps maintain a soft feel along the fiber.
Flexibility — a hydrated keratin environment helps improve fiber flexibility.
Manageability — suited to formulations targeting dry, stressed, or chemically treated hair.
Scalp hydration — extends NMF-inspired hydration thinking to scalp care.
Target Formats
Shampoos · conditioners · hair masks · leave-in conditioners · moisturizing mists · hair serums · scalp serums · scalp sprays · scalp masks · pre-wash treatments · dry-hair care · curly-hair care · chemically treated hair care
Cuticle detail, SEM (scale bar 20 µm). Image: Foreade, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.
Claim discipline: PuriNMF makes no bond-repair or disulfide-bond-repair claims.
SCALP + HAIR · SIGNATURE
One Hydration Strategy, Two Keratin Systems
HAIR & SCALP — PUBLISHED PRECEDENT
Published Hair/Scalp Precedent
Polyamino Sugar Condensate in documented hair and scalp care compositions
US 5,523,078 A
Hair and scalp care compositions and methods of making
This granted patent applies Polyamino Sugar Condensate in hair and scalp care compositions, disclosing use levels of 0.1–0.25 wt%. It documents an established role for the ingredient in hair and scalp formulation practice.
What it supports
· Hair-conditioning positioning of the ingredient · Scalp-care relevance
· Documented use level: 0.1–0.25 wt% · Precedent across hair/scalp care formats
Important boundaries
· The disclosed range is not PuriPharm’s recommended dosage · A patent disclosure is not clinical evidence for PuriNMF
US5523078A. Cited as a published formulation precedent; the patentee is deliberately omitted. Recommended use levels: see PuriPharm technical documentation.
APPLICATION MATRIX
Application Matrix
One hydration-conditioning platform across skincare, cleansing, scalp, and hair formats
Skin Care
Moisturizing essences · serums · toners · gel creams · moisturizing creams · sheet masks · sleeping masks · body lotions · hand creams
Cleansing
Facial cleansers · cleansing balms · body washes · hand soaps
Positioning: post-cleansing comfort, reduced tightness
Scalp Care
Scalp serums · scalp essences · scalp sprays · pre-wash treatments · scalp masks
Positioning: NMF-inspired scalp hydration, leave-on comfort
Hair Care
Shampoos · conditioners · hair masks · leave-in conditioners · moisturizing mists · hair serums · curly-hair care · chemically treated hair care
Positioning: hydration conditioning, softness, manageability
FORMULATION DESIGN
Building a Complete Hydration System
PuriNMF as the hydration-conditioning core — complementary formulation design
TECHNICAL SNAPSHOT
Formulator’s Technical Snapshot
Verified identity data only — no invented specifications
| Item | Content |
|---|---|
| Product name | PuriActives® PuriNMF |
| INCI name | POLYAMINO SUGAR CONDENSATE |
| CAS No. | 120022-92-6 |
| Chemical makeup | Condensate of sugar-derived and amino-acid-derived structural units |
| Cosmetic function | Humectant · Skin conditioning |
| Safety precedent | J Am Coll Toxicol. 1982;1(4):25–32 · CIR re-review, Int J Toxicol. 2023;42(3 Suppl):91S–92S |
| Published use-level precedent | 0.1–0.25 wt% in hair/scalp compositions (US5523078A) — a precedent, not a recommended dosage |
| Format compatibility | Leave-on and rinse-off systems (per published formulation precedent) |
Full technical documentation — appearance, assay, pH, solubility, recommended dosage, process guidance, storage, shelf life, packaging, and preservation — is available on request from PuriPharm Co. Ltd.
WHY PURINMF
Why PuriNMF
The commercial value, in five points
01 NMF-inspired dual chemistry — sugar-derived and amino-acid-derived functionality coexist in one condensate system — distinct from ordinary single-polyol humectants.
02 Two keratin systems — one platform across skin, scalp, and hair — one continuous scientific narrative from facial care to fiber care.
03 An evidence-aligned story — grounded in NMF biology, Raman water-state research, and published patent precedent — with clear boundaries around every claim.
04 Leave-on and rinse-off — from cleansers and shampoos to essences, masks, mists, and scalp care — one ingredient, broad format coverage.
05 Claim discipline — literature-anchored, technically confident language that R&D, regulatory, and brand-science teams can all rely on.
PuriActives® PuriNMF — an advanced hydration-conditioning platform for skin, scalp, and hair.
PURIPHARM CO. LTD.
PuriActives® PuriNMF
Hydration conditioning inspired by NMF biology
Key References
Rawlings AV, Harding CR. Dermatol Ther. 2004;17(Suppl 1):43–48. · Schleusener J, et al. Molecules. 2021;26(6):1649. DOI: 10.3390/molecules26061649. · Fluhr JW, et al. J Biophotonics. 2023;16:e202200201. DOI: 10.1002/jbio.202200201. · Final Report of the Safety Assessment of Polyamino Sugar Condensate. J Am Coll Toxicol. 1982;1(4):25–32. · Raj PS, et al. Int J Toxicol. 2023;42(3 Suppl):91S–92S.
Patents
EP0535789A2 — Topical cleansing and conditioning compositions. · US5523078A — Hair and scalp care.
Image Credits
OpenStax, Anatomy & Physiology (CC BY 4.0) · CSIRO ScienceImage 8115 (CC BY 3.0) · Foreade, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0).
For technical documentation, samples, and formulation support, please contact PuriPharm Co. Ltd.