PuriActives® S-Glucan
Sulfated polysaccharide technology for sensitive and stressed skin
01 · THE FORMULATION CHALLENGE · THE CHALLENGE
Efficacy keeps advancing — tolerability has not kept up
High-efficacy actives — retinoids, exfoliating acids, vitamin C — remain the strongest drivers of visible skincare results, and are also among the most common triggers of stinging, visible redness and barrier stress. For a growing number of consumers, the bottleneck of a skincare routine is no longer efficacy, but how much stress the skin can withstand.
Everyday stress scenarios that amplify skin reactivity
● Retinoid adjustment periods and over-exfoliation
● Acid peels and high-strength vitamin C routines
● UV, pollution and climate-change stress
● Aesthetic procedures — laser, peels, microneedling
● Shaving and daily mechanical friction
| 60–70%of women self-report some degree of sensitive skin; 50–60% of men do as wellFarage MA, Cosmetics, 2019 | 44.6%of American adults self-report “sensitive” or “very sensitive” skin in a representative national surveyMisery L et al., Int J Dermatol, 2011 |
Formulation insight: every high-efficacy system now needs a built-in tolerability strategy — starting at the ingredient level.
02 · MARKET CONTEXT · THE MARKET
Sensitive skin & barrier repair: a structural growth engine
| $80.3BDermocosmetic skincare market size in 2031, up from $50.3B in 2025 — an 8.1% CAGR; dermatology-backed skincare is going mainstreamMordor Intelligence, 2026 edition | +9.9%Forecast CAGR of the sensitive-skin segment (2026–2031) — the fastest-growing skin-need trackMordor Intelligence, 2026 edition | $12.6BRepairing skincare market size in 2036, growing from $6.9B in 2026, driven by post-procedure and post-retinoid care demandFuture Market Insights, 2026 |
The formulation trends behind the numbers
Barrier-first skincare · post-procedure and post-laser repair · “skinimalism” — fewer, better-validated ingredients
Recovery after retinoids and acids · skin resilience as a claim territory · dermatologist-channel daily care
The opportunity: advanced soothing and repair actives are no longer a niche add-on — they are becoming shared formulation infrastructure for sensitive-skin and high-efficacy products alike.
03 · INGREDIENT INTRODUCTION · THE INGREDIENT
Meet PuriActives® S-Glucan
“Answering skin repair with a sulfated polysaccharide.”
PuriActives® S-Glucan is a low-molecular-weight sulfated polysaccharide — the sodium salt of sulfated dextran — developed for modern soothing, anti-redness, barrier-support and post-stress repair formulations.
Sulfating the dextran backbone converts a neutral, passive polysaccharide into a strong polyanionic macromolecule, fundamentally changing its interaction profile: high negative charge density, strong water binding, protective-film formation, and electrostatic interactions with positively charged proteins and inflammatory mediators.
The result is an ingredient category of its own — not a renamed β-glucan, but a next-generation repair active with published evidence across inflammatory, vascular and sensitive-skin models.
| INCI name | Sodium Dextran Sulfate |
| CAS No. | 9011-18-1 |
| Molecular weight | 9–20 kDa standard grade · 4–8 kDa grade |
| Appearance | White to off-white powder |
| Solubility | Readily soluble in water |
| Recommended use level | 0.05–0.20% |
04 · CATEGORY DEFINITION · THE CATEGORY
S-Glucan is not “just another glucan”
What sulfation changes: it converts a passive hydrating polysaccharide into an interactive, bioactive polyanion — a different chemical and functional category, not a line extension of β-glucan.
05 · SCIENTIFIC IDENTITY · THE SCIENCE
From dextran to sodium dextran sulfate
01 · The backbone
Dextran is a fermentation-derived branched glucose polymer dominated by α-1,6 glycosidic linkages — a neutral, uncharged polysaccharide.
02 · The chemical modification
Sulfation replaces backbone –OH groups with sulfate ester groups (–O–SO₃⁻ Na⁺), yielding a strongly anionic polymer with high charge density.
03 · The functional outcome
The polyanion binds water, forms a hydrating surface film, and interacts electrostatically with cationic proteins and inflammatory mediators.
06 · WHY CHARGE MATTERS · WHY CHARGE MATTERS
A polyanionic structure built for biological interaction
Electrostatic interaction. The dense sulfate charges interact with positively charged proteins and signaling mediators — including those that drive inflammatory amplification at the skin surface.
Glycosaminoglycan-like properties. Sulfated polysaccharides echo the polyanionic logic of the heparin-family glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), which are known to bind chemokines and modulate leukocyte–endothelium interactions.
Charge density correlates with bioactivity. For anionic polymers, inhibition of inflammatory-cell invasion has been shown to correlate with anionic charge density — and dextran sulfate is the preferred, most active polymer class (US5605938, 1997).
A macromolecular comfort film. Strong hydrophilicity supports surface hydration, moisture retention and protective-film formation, buffering stressed skin against environmental exposure.
PUBLISHED EVIDENCE SIGNAL
−66%
reduction in neutrophil migration observed with dextran sulfate in a biological assay — direct proof that a sulfated polyanion can intervene in inflammatory-cell trafficking.
Patent FR2877565A1 — non-therapeutic use of dextran sulfate to reduce skin reactions
Neutrophil influx is an early amplifier of visible irritation and post-stress redness. Restraining this step helps keep the skin’s inflammatory response proportionate to the stress it receives.
07 · MECHANISM OVERVIEW · MECHANISM OVERVIEW
One molecule, four layers of support
Each layer is supported by published in-vitro evidence on sodium dextran sulfate or mechanistically related sulfated polysaccharides — detailed in the following sections.
08 · MECHANISM 1 — INFLAMMATORY SIGNALING · MECHANISM 1
Quietening the inflammatory microenvironment
Key experimental findings
● −42% TNF-α-induced NF-κB activation (3 mg/mL, p<0.01) — WO2020201492A1
● Strong inhibition of IL-1α and IL-8 (10 µg/mL) — Hernandez-Pigeon et al., 2018
● Reduced KLK5 and MMP-9 mRNA (stressed keratinocytes) — Hernandez-Pigeon et al., 2018
● −66% neutrophil migration — FR2877565A1
09 · EVIDENCE — SENSITIVE & ATOPIC-PRONE SKIN · THE EVIDENCE
Concentration-dependent inhibition of TSLP and IL-8
The experimental model
Normal human epidermal keratinocytes were pre-incubated with sodium dextran sulfate (MW 9–20 kDa), then stimulated for 24 hours with Poly I:C + PamC3 + IL-4 + IL-13 — mimicking an atopic inflammatory environment. TSLP and IL-8 were measured by ELISA; n = 3; p < 0.01 (vs. stimulated control).
Why it matters
● TSLP is the core alarmin released by stressed keratinocytes — it initiates the “itch–inflammation” cascade characteristic of reactive, atopic-prone skin.
● IL-8 is the key chemokine recruiting neutrophils into stressed skin.
● S-Glucan shows activity at microgram-per-milliliter concentrations — consistent with a high-potency, low-dose soothing active.
10 · MECHANISM 2 — REDNESS & VASCULAR RESPONSE · MECHANISM 2
Addressing the visible face of inflammation — redness
Visible redness is the downstream sign of the “inflammation–vascular” loop: lipid mediators dilate microvessels, while VEGF fuels vascular hyper-reactivity. In keratinocyte models of redness-prone skin, dextran sulfate acts on both arms of this loop — inflammatory mediators and the VEGF vascular axis. In a peer-reviewed study of actives for redness-prone skin (a rosacea-relevant in-vitro model), dextran sulfate was the multi-target soothing component of the system.
The model systems
● PGE2 — PMA-stimulated keratinocytes
● VEGF — LL-37 / FSL-1 / TNF-α redness environment
● Tube-like formation — VEGF-induced microvessel formation in endothelial/fibroblast co-culture
11 · MECHANISM 3 — BARRIER REPAIR · MECHANISM 3
Calmer skin recovers faster
The repair logic
Persistent low-grade inflammation keeps keratinocytes in a defensive state, blocking orderly epidermal recovery. By down-regulating alarmin and cytokine release, S-Glucan helps the epidermal environment shift from defense back to repair — supporting barrier recovery and day-after-day resilience.
Evidence boundaries
● Direct evidence: mediator inhibition in stressed keratinocytes (TSLP, IL-8, IL-1α, NF-κB).
● Mechanistic inference: barrier-repair benefit follows the “inflammation–barrier” axis described in the dermatological literature.
● Ongoing at PuriPharm: a barrier-biomarker program (filaggrin, loricrin) on the 9–20 kDa standard grade.
12 · BENEFIT ARCHITECTURE · THE BENEFITS
From mechanism to visible skin benefits
| Immediate skin comfortHelps calm stressed and reactive skinHelps reduce the appearance of visible rednessHelps relieve the look and feel of irritation | Sensitive skin supportDesigned for fragile, reactive skinHelps progressively improve skin toleranceSupports recovery after environmental or cosmetic stress |
| Barrier repairSupports epidermal recovery after stressHelps rebuild skin resilienceComplements ceramide and lipid barrier-repair systems | Post-efficacy recoveryPartner active for retinoid and acid routinesHelps improve the tolerability of high-efficacy systemsSupports long-term adherence to results-driven regimens |
Benefit statements are intended for cosmetic applications, anchored to the in-vitro evidence presented in the mechanism sections, and do not constitute therapeutic claims for any skin disease.
13 · DIFFERENTIATION · THE DIFFERENCE
S-Glucan vs. conventional β-glucan
| Dimension | Conventional β-glucan | PuriActives® S-Glucan |
|---|---|---|
| Structural class | Neutral / partially branched glucan | Sulfated polyanionic polysaccharide |
| Backbone | β-1,3 / β-1,6 glucose polymer | α-1,6 dextran backbone, sulfate-esterified |
| Charge density | Low — essentially uncharged | High negative charge density (–OSO₃⁻ Na⁺) |
| Interaction profile | Hydration, moisturizing comfort | Ionic & protein interactions; inflammatory-mediator modulation |
| Evidence focus | Hydration, comfort | TSLP / IL-8 / IL-1α, NF-κB, PGE2, VEGF, neutrophil migration |
| Positioning | Classic soothing polysaccharide | Next-generation sulfated repair active |
S-Glucan belongs to a distinct chemical and functional category — it should be evaluated on its own evidence base, not treated as a line extension of β-glucan.
14 · FORMULATION STRATEGY · FORMULATION STRATEGY
The tolerability partner for high-efficacy systems
The discomfort that limits retinoid, acid and vitamin C routines is inflammatory in nature — it runs through the very mediators S-Glucan down-regulates in vitro: PGE2, IL-1α, IL-8 and NF-κB. Pairing the high-efficacy engine with a repair active lets a formula preserve efficacy while improving comfort, adherence and repurchase.
Positioning principle: efficacy must be balanced with tolerability — build both into the same formulation chassis.
In the keratinocyte redness model, PGE2 was reduced by 68–70% and VEGF completely inhibited — precisely the mediator signature of active-induced irritation.
Designed to partner with
● Retinoids — retinol, retinal and their derivatives
● Exfoliating acids — AHA / BHA / PHA systems
● Vitamin C — high-strength antioxidant serums
● Dark-spot systems — tone-evening routines
● Blemish-care actives — drying, keratolytic formulas
● Post-procedure routines — after laser, peels, microneedling
S-Glucan is strongly anionic; combinations with cationic conditioning agents require formulation verification — see the Formulation Guidance section.
15 · APPLICATIONS · APPLICATIONS
Where S-Glucan delivers the most value
| Anti-redness serumsTargets the PGE2 / VEGF inflammation–vascular axis behind visible redness. | Daily care for sensitive skinTSLP / IL-8 modulation for daily routines for reactive and atopic-prone skin. |
| Post-procedure & post-laser careSupports the recovery environment after energy-based procedures and peels. | Retinoid & acid recovery productsThe tolerability partner inside high-efficacy formulation chassis. |
| After-sun & anti-pollution careA comfort film and mediator control after environmental stress. | Soothing masks & facial mistsWater-based formats are a natural fit for a readily water-soluble polyanion. |
| Eye contour careThin skin with visible vasculature; dextran sulfate compositions are patented for redness, puffiness and the eye contour (US6562355B1). | Scalp soothing careSensitive scalp and the anti-dandruff-adjacent space — an emerging need. |
| After-shave careLow use levels calm mechanical-stress reactions. | Minimalist gentle concepts”Skinimalist” formulas built around a single, well-characterized molecule. |
Formats span serums, creams, gels, lotions, essences, masks, mists and scalp lotions — the molecule is format-agnostic in aqueous systems.
16 · FORMULATION GUIDANCE · FORMULATION GUIDANCE
Working with a strong polyanion
Simple to use
● Readily soluble in water and salt solutions — add to the water phase under conventional stirring.
● Wide pH window: reported stable in pH 4–10 solutions at room temperature, covering essentially all leave-on formats.*
● Low dose, low texture impact: effective at 0.05–0.20%; virtually no effect on viscosity or skin feel at these levels.
● Compatible with nonionic and anionic systems — conventional emulsions, gels, serums and mists.
Verify before scale-up
● Cationic ingredients: polyquaterniums, cationic surfactants and cationic conditioning polymers may form complexes with a strong polyanion — check clarity and stability.*
● Positively charged peptides — verify compatibility case by case.*
● High levels of multivalent metal ions — evaluate in the final formulation chassis.*
● Grade selection: molecular weight (9–20 vs. 4–8 kDa) and degree of sulfation both affect activity and solution behavior — fix the grade before locking the formula.
* Marked items require confirmation in the PuriPharm applications laboratory for the specific grade and formulation chassis; a full compatibility matrix is available on request.
17 · PRODUCT PROFILE · PRODUCT PROFILE
PuriActives® S-Glucan — specification summary
| Product name | PuriActives® S-Glucan |
| INCI name | Sodium Dextran Sulfate |
| CAS No. | 9011-18-1 |
| Appearance | White to off-white powder |
| Active content | ≥ 95% (on dry basis) |
| Molecular weight | 9–20 kDa (standard grade); 4–8 kDa grade available on request |
| Solubility | Readily soluble in water |
| Recommended use level | 0.05–0.20% (typical); patent literature supports 0.01–0.5% |
| Quality control | SEC/GPC for molecular weight; elemental analysis / ICP-OES for sulfur content; ion chromatography for free sulfate — documented per batch on the CoA |
| Microbiology & heavy metals | Controlled to cosmetic ingredient standards |
The degree of sulfation is defined per grade and documented batch-by-batch on the Certificate of Analysis (CoA), rather than stated as a single generic value — see the Quality & Analytics section.
18 · QUALITY & ANALYTICS · QUALITY & ANALYTICS
Not all sodium dextran sulfate is equal
Sodium dextran sulfate is a distribution-defined polymer: even with identical INCI and CAS, differences in molecular weight, molecular-weight distribution, degree of sulfation and free-sulfate residue all change protein binding, ionic strength, viscosity and bioactivity. S-Glucan is therefore defined by a dual-axis specification — molecular weight × degree of sulfation — never by INCI alone.
Batch-level analytical control
● SEC / GPC — Mw, Mn and polydispersity for every batch
● Elemental analysis / ICP-OES — total sulfur content
● Ion chromatography — free sulfate residue
● ¹H / ¹³C NMR — backbone and sulfation-site confirmation
● FTIR — characteristic S=O and C–O–S bands
● Moisture, ash, sodium content, conductivity — batch-to-batch consistency
Defined structure → defined performance: every batch of S-Glucan ships with the complete analytical fingerprint a formulator needs to reproduce results.
19 · KEY TAKEAWAYS · KEY TAKEAWAYS
Why formulators choose S-Glucan
01 A category of its own, not another glucan. Sulfation converts a neutral polysaccharide into a strong polyanionic repair active with a fundamentally different interaction profile.
02 A multi-target, literature-backed mechanism. Concentration-dependent inhibition of TSLP and IL-8; inhibition of IL-1α, KLK5 and MMP-9; reduced NF-κB activation; up to 66% less neutrophil migration.
03 Active on both arms of the redness loop. In published keratinocyte and co-culture models: PGE2 reduced by 68–70%, VEGF completely inhibited, and VEGF-driven microvessel formation reduced by 47–54%.
04 The tolerability partner modern formulas need. Purpose-built for sensitive skin, post-procedure care and high-efficacy retinoid/acid systems — at use levels of just 0.05–0.20%.
05 Defined by science, not traded as a commodity. A dual-axis molecular weight × sulfation specification with full batch analytics from PuriPharm — reproducible performance, batch after batch.
20 · REFERENCES · REFERENCES
Sources and scientific basis
Peer-reviewed literature
1. Hernandez-Pigeon H, Garidou L, Galliano M-F, et al. Effects of dextran sulfate, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, pongamia oil and hesperidin methyl chalcone on inflammatory and vascular responses implicated in rosacea. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018;11:405–414. doi:10.2147/CCID.S168621
2. Misery L, Sibaud V, Merial-Kieny C, Taieb C. Sensitive skin in the American population: prevalence, clinical data, and role of the dermatologist. Int J Dermatol. 2011;50(8):961–967.
3. Farage MA. The prevalence of sensitive skin. Cosmetics. 2019;6(2):26.
Patent literature
4. WO2020201492A1 / CN113766922A — dextran sulfate and compositions thereof for inflammatory skin conditions; TSLP / IL-8 / NF-κB experimental data, 2020.
5. FR2877565A1 — non-therapeutic use of dextran sulfate for preventing and/or reducing skin reactions; neutrophil migration experimental data, priority 2004.
6. US6562355B1 — dextran sulfate / escin compositions for skin redness, puffiness and sensitive skin, including eye contour care, 2003.
7. US5605938 — anionic polymers inhibiting cell invasion; activity correlated with anionic charge density, 1997.
Market data
8. Mordor Intelligence. Dermocosmetics Skin Care Products Market — Size, Share & Forecasts (2026–2031). 2026 edition.
9. Future Market Insights. Repairing Skin Care Treatments Market Forecast and Outlook 2026 to 2036. 2026.
The in-vitro data cited in the mechanism sections originate from sodium dextran sulfate of the same INCI category as PuriActives® S-Glucan; the data characterize the technology platform, were redrawn from the cited sources, and the values were not altered.