PuriActives® SH50 Saccharide Hydrolysate
Advanced Sugar Science for Skin & Hair Hydration
INCI — SACCHARIDE HYDROLYSATE · CAS 8013-17-0
A science-driven report for formulators, R&D scientists, and technical marketing teams
01 · MARKET OPPORTUNITY · 市场机遇
Hydration: An Inevitable Imperative
Healthy skin and hair are, first and foremost, water-rich systems.
In skin, stratum corneum water content determines flexibility, smoothness, and barrier performance — a healthy surface holds about 20–30% water, maintained by the skin’s own hygroscopic reservoir, the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). In hair, water content governs flexibility, softness, and resistance to breakage. Yet daily life works against it: low humidity, cleansing, and aging continually erode the body’s own water-holding capacity.
Consumer Demand
Soft, dewy, comfortable skin and smooth, manageable hair — every single day.
The Biological Challenge
NMF depletion, accelerated water loss, and dry, fragile fibers.
The Sugar Answer
Hydroxyl-rich molecules that capture, bind, and retain water exactly where skin and hair need it most.
Three Drivers of Water Loss
— Low humidity, wind, and climate stress accelerate surface water loss
— Surfactant cleansing washes away water-soluble NMF
— Aging reduces the skin’s own production of NMF components
Sources — Rawlings & Harding, Dermatol. Ther., 2004 · Fowler, Pract. Dermatol., 2012
02 · PRODUCT IDENTITY · 产品身份
Meet PuriActives® SH50
Saccharide Hydrolysate(糖类水解物)
| INCI name | Saccharide Hydrolysate |
| Identifiers | CAS 8013-17-0 · EC 232-393-1 |
| Chemical nature | A plant-derived mixture of low-molecular-weight sugars |
| Origin | Produced by directed hydrolysis (inversion) of food-grade natural sugars |
| INCI functions | Humectant · skin conditioning · skin protecting |
| Safety status | CIR Expert Panel — safe as used · US FDA GRAS direct food additive · Listed in China’s IECIC inventory |

Not an ordinary sugar blend — a well-defined, low-molecular-weight saccharide hydrolysate, built for modern water-based formulations.
Sources — CIR safety assessment, Int. J. Toxicol., 2025 · PubChem, Saccharide Hydrolysate (CAS 8013-17-0) · IECIC 2021 · PuriPharm process documentation
03 · SKIN BIOLOGY · 皮肤生物学
Why Sugars Matter to Skin
NMF accounts for 20–30% of stratum corneum dry weight — and sugars themselves are natural NMF components.


— Hydroxyl-rich sugars capture water through extensive hydrogen bonding
— Their small molecular size keeps them active in and around corneocytes
— The skin’s own design principle: many small polar molecules locking water where it matters
Sources — Fowler, Pract. Dermatol., 2012 · Rawlings & Harding, Dermatol. Ther., 2004 · Verdier-Sévrain & Bonté, J. Cosmet. Dermatol., 2007
04 · MECHANISM OF ACTION · 作用机制
A Multi-Dimensional Hydration Mechanism

| 01Bind waterLow-molecular-weight sugar molecules present a dense array of hydroxyl groups, forming an extensive hydrogen-bond network with water molecules. | 02Hold waterAs hygroscopic molecules, sugars build a water reservoir at the skin and hair surface, buffering fluctuations in ambient humidity. |
| 03Reduce surface water lossA water-rich surface slows evaporation from the stratum corneum, helping skin preserve its own water content. | 04Support barrier comfortHydrated corneocytes stay supple; the skin surface remains smooth, soft, and comfortable throughout the day. |
Mechanistic basis drawn from carbohydrate chemistry and skin hydration research — Verdier-Sévrain & Bonté, 2007 · Fluhr et al., 2023
05 · EFFICACY — HYDRATION · 功效证据 · 保湿
Hydration & Water Retention
From isolated stratum corneum to human volunteers, saccharide systems consistently improve the skin’s ability to bind and retain water across multiple models.
A natural sugar-derived humectant complex significantly enhanced bound-water capacity within the stratum corneum and modulated its structural parameters.
In vitro Raman spectroscopy · human stratum corneum | Fluhr et al., J. Biophotonics, 2023
A serum containing 7% galacto-oligosaccharides significantly improved skin water retention (Corneometer measurement, p < 0.05 vs. control base).
Randomized controlled trial · N=60 · 8 weeks | Hong et al., J. Pers. Med., 2020
Ten hygroscopic humectants (common moisturizing-cream types) significantly increased water retention in treated human stratum corneum, directly quantified by thermal desorption–mass spectrometry.
Thermal desorption–mass spectrometry | Gournay et al., Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 1995
These studies evaluated saccharide systems similar to — but not identical with — PuriActives® SH50. Together they establish the class’s hydration mechanism across complementary models.
06 · EFFICACY — BARRIER · 功效证据 · 屏障
Supporting the Skin Barrier
Hydration is not only about adding water — it is about maintaining a healthier water-management environment for the skin.

Transepidermal water loss kept under control
In an 8-week randomized trial, the oligosaccharide serum group showed significantly smaller TEWL changes than the control group at weeks 4–8 (p < 0.05), with a reduced erythema index at week 8.
Hong et al., J. Pers. Med., 2020
Hydration supports barrier biology
Adequate stratum corneum water content underpins the enzymatic processes required for orderly desquamation and surface cohesion.
Rawlings & Harding, Dermatol. Ther., 2004
Supple, not tight
Humectant-saturated corneocytes stay soft, reducing the tightness and surface micro-cracking typical of dehydrated skin.
Verdier-Sévrain & Bonté, J. Cosmet. Dermatol., 2007
07 · SENSORY DIMENSION · 感官维度
Skin Comfort & Sensory Benefits
Hydration is something consumers can truly feel. Water-plasticized keratin is the physical basis of softness, bounce, and a beautiful skin feel.
| Softer to the touchBound water lowers the glassy stiffness of surface keratin; skin yields softly under touch. | Smoother surfaceHydrated corneocytes lie flatter and shed more evenly, improving surface texture and light reflection. |
| Less tightnessA water-buffered surface eases the dry, tight feeling after cleansing and in low-humidity environments. | Comfortable after-feelSmall-molecule, water-phase humectants blend easily into light, fresh texture concepts. |
In a clinical study on sensitive atopic skin, an emulsion containing gluco-oligosaccharide and collagen tripeptide improved skin condition and tolerance parameters within 4 weeks — demonstrating that oligosaccharide-based care is well suited to reactive skin.
Berardesca et al., Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 2009
08 · FRONTIER SCIENCE · 前沿科学
The Skin Microbiome — A Prebiotic Frontier
Skin microbes feed on sugars. Choosing which sugars to offer them is becoming a formulation strategy.
Short-chain fructo-oligosaccharides sustain the growth of beneficial Staphylococcus epidermidis while inhibiting Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus; in a reconstructed human epidermis model, 1% scFOS tilted microbial competition toward S. epidermidis.
Selective utilization · in vitro + reconstructed epidermis | Le Bourgot et al., Sci. Rep., 2022
Galacto-oligosaccharides demonstrated prebiotic potential on the skin microbiota, with diffusion properties suited to topical delivery.
Prebiotic potential · skin microbiota | Petrov et al., Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 2022
An oligosaccharide-containing serum increased microbial diversity (Shannon index) after 8 weeks and reduced S. aureus abundance, while hydration parameters improved in parallel.
Human randomized controlled trial · facial skin | Hong et al., J. Pers. Med., 2020
These effects were demonstrated for specific oligosaccharide structures. As a fermentable sugar substrate of the same class, PuriActives® SH50 offers a scientifically coherent platform for microbiome-friendly formulations.
09 · BEYOND SKIN · 承前启后 · 超越皮肤
From Skin to Hair — The Same Water Physics
Hair is keratin too. The water-binding logic that works on skin transfers directly to the hair fiber.

Water is hair’s plasticizer
Bound water molecules sit between keratin chains, keeping the fiber flexible; dry hair is markedly harder and more brittle.
Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, Springer, 2012
Humidity changes mechanical behavior
Hair’s bending and recovery behavior depends strongly on humidity — evidence that internal water content dominates hand feel and style retention.
Wortmann et al., J. Appl. Polym. Sci., 2009
Humectants buffer humidity swings
Hygroscopic actives moderate the rate at which fibers gain and lose water with ambient humidity, smoothing out moisture extremes.
Yu et al., Mater. Sci. Eng. C, 2017
10 · HAIR CARE · 护发应用
PuriActives® SH50 Hair-Care Benefits
A small-molecule humectant delivering four tangible improvements to hair feel and behavior.
| Moisture balanceHygroscopic sugar molecules attract and hold water inside and on the fiber, buffering moisture loss in dry air. | Softness & supplenessWater-plasticized fibers bend without breaking — the mechanical root of soft, bouncy hair. |
| Smooth combingBalanced internal moisture helps cuticles lie flatter, easing combing and reducing frizz and flyaway. | Daily protectionBy moderating humidity-driven swell–shrink cycles, hydration reduces hygral fatigue damage. |
Mechanistic basis: humidity-sensitive hair mechanics (Yu et al., Mater. Sci. Eng. C, 2017; Wortmann et al., J. Appl. Polym. Sci., 2009) and hair–water relations (Robbins, Springer, 2012; Kanlayavattanakul & Lourith, Springer, 2015).
11 · FOR FORMULATORS · 致配方师
Formulation Value
Water-phase addition — simple and direct
Fully water-compatible small molecules — add directly to the emulsion water phase, or to aqueous serums, mists, and shampoos. No solubilizers, no heating process.
Broad format compatibility
Leave-on and rinse-off, emulsified and purely aqueous systems, skin and hair — one INCI covers facial serums, moisturizers, sheet masks, scalp essences, shampoos, conditioners, and hair masks.
Synergy logic
Naturally pairs with glycerin and hyaluronic acid (multi-size hydration); synergizes with β-glucans, amino acids (NMF-style blends), ceramides (hydration + lipid repair), and conditioning polymers in hair-care systems.

Use levels: maximum reported concentrations — 4.6% rinse-off (US industry survey, CIR 2025); 3% leave-on (China IECIC).
Within these reported use levels, PuriActives® SH50 is assessed as safe as used (CIR, Int. J. Toxicol., 2025) and is listed in China’s IECIC inventory.
12 · APPLICATIONS · 应用场景
Application Directions
Skincare
Hydrating serums & essences — fast-absorbing water-phase hydration forming the formula’s moisture backbone.
Daily moisturizers & barrier creams — sustained surface hydration and comfort in leave-on formulas.
Sheet & sleeping masks — high-dose water delivery in intensive-care concepts.
Facial mists & toners — light, non-sticky all-day water replenishment.
Sensitive-skin lines — gentle, sugar-based hydration with a well-documented safety record.
After-sun & post-procedure care — hydration support for stressed, dehydrated skin.
Men’s care — zero-burden hydration with no occlusive greasiness.
Body lotions & hand care — everyday barrier hydration at economical use levels.
Hair & Scalp Care
Moisturizing shampoos — surface-substantive hydration that remains after rinse-off.
Conditioners & hair masks — water-plasticized softness and improved combability.
Leave-in sprays & hair serums — lasting moisture balance and frizz management.
Scalp tonics & essences — scalp hydration is the foundation of comfort.
Curly & textured hair care — keeping moisture where it is needed most.
Anti-dryness repair lines — buffering the humidity swings that drive hygral fatigue.
13 · STARTING POINTS · 开发起点
Formulation Inspiration
| Water-Barrier Hydrating SerumRole of SH50: 1–3% to build a multi-layer hydration backbone, within reported use levels.Pair with: hyaluronic acid, glycerin, panthenol.Positioning: a daily hydrating serum for all skin types. | 24-Hour Moisturizing CreamRole of SH50: continuous water supply in the emulsion water phase.Pair with: ceramides, squalane, shea butter.Positioning: a barrier-comfort cream for day and night. |
| Scalp Comfort EssenceRole of SH50: scalp hydration and fermentable-sugar care in a leave-on water-based formula.Pair with: niacinamide, caffeine, gentle soothing agents.Positioning: a light, leave-on scalp treatment. | Hydrating Repair Hair MaskRole of SH50: replenishing fiber moisture in an intensive rinse-off base.Pair with: cationic conditioners, hydrolyzed proteins, plant oils.Positioning: a weekly deep-hydration treatment. |
These concepts are starting points for development discussions; suggested dosages remain within the reported cosmetic use concentrations for saccharide hydrolysate.
14 · SUMMARY · 核心总结
Why PuriActives® SH50
01 Advanced water management. A low-molecular-weight saccharide humectant system that binds water through dense hydroxyl chemistry and keeps it in the stratum corneum.
02 Barrier support. Hydration is structural: adequate water content supports desquamation, surface cohesion, and controlled water loss.
03 Consumer-perceivable comfort. Softer touch, smoother surface, less tightness — the sensory signature of hydrated skin and hair.
04 Skin + hair in one. One INCI, two categories: the same water-binding logic serves facial, body, scalp, and hair care.
05 Formulation-friendly. Simple water-phase addition, no format restrictions, globally compliant — CIR assessed safe as used, FDA GRAS background, listed in China IECIC.
What it is — a purified saccharide system · Why it matters — water defines skin and hair quality · Why choose it — simple, safe, versatile
15 · EVIDENCE BASE · 证据基础
Scientific References
[1] Johnson W Jr, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, et al. Safety Assessment of Anhydrogalactose, Anhydroglucitol, Anhydroxylitol, Arabinose, Psicose, Saccharide Hydrolysate, and Saccharide Isomerate as Used in Cosmetics. Int. J. Toxicol. 2025; 44(4_suppl): 93S–120S. DOI: 10.1177/10915818251384580
[2] Rawlings AV, Harding CR. Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatol. Ther. 2004; 17(Suppl. 1): 43–48. DOI: 10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04S1005.x
[3] Fowler JF Jr. Understanding the role of natural moisturizing factor in skin hydration. Pract. Dermatol. 2012; 9: 36–40.
[4] Verdier-Sévrain S, Bonté F. Skin hydration: a review on its molecular mechanisms. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2007; 6(2): 75–82. DOI: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2007.00300.x
[5] Fluhr JW, Tfayli A, Darlenski R, et al. Glycerol and natural sugar-derived complex modulate differentially stratum corneum water-binding properties and structural parameters in an in vitro Raman-desorption model. J. Biophotonics 2023; 16(1): e202200201. DOI: 10.1002/jbio.202200201
[6] Gournay A, Navarro R, Mathieu J, Rivière M. Water retention of treated stratum corneum measured by a coupling method: thermal desorption–mass spectrometry. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 1995; 17(4): 165–172.
[7] Hong KB, et al. Changes in the diversity of human skin microbiota to cosmetic serum containing prebiotics: results from a randomized controlled trial. J. Pers. Med. 2020; 10(3): 91. DOI: 10.3390/jpm10030091
[8] Berardesca E, Abril E, Serio M, Cameli N. Effects of topical gluco-oligosaccharide and collagen tripeptide F in the treatment of sensitive atopic skin. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2009; 31(4): 271–277. DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00495.x
[9] Le Bourgot C, Meunier C, Gaio E, et al. Effects of short chain fructo-oligosaccharides on selected skin bacteria. Sci. Rep. 2022; 12: 9702. DOI: 10.1038/s41598-022-13093-5
[10] Petrov A, Ćorović M, Milivojević A, et al. Prebiotic effect of galacto-oligosaccharides on the skin microbiota and determination of their diffusion properties. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2022; 44(3): 309–319. DOI: 10.1111/ics.12778
[11] Zeng M, Li Y, Cheng J, Wang J, Liu Q. Prebiotic oligosaccharides in skin health: benefits, mechanisms, and cosmetic applications. Antioxidants 2025; 14(6): 754. DOI: 10.3390/antiox14060754
[12] Yu Y, Yang W, Wang B, Meyers MA. Structure and mechanical behavior of human hair. Mater. Sci. Eng. C 2017; 73: 152–163. DOI: 10.1016/j.msec.2016.12.008
[13] Wortmann FJ, Stapels M, Chandra L. Humidity-dependent bending recovery and relaxation of human hair. J. Appl. Polym. Sci. 2009; 113(5): 3336–3344. DOI: 10.1002/app.30336
[14] Robbins CR. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 5th ed. Berlin: Springer; 2012.
[15] Kanlayavattanakul M, Lourith N. Biopolysaccharides for skin hydrating cosmetics. In: Polysaccharides. Cham: Springer; 2015. p. 1867–1892. DOI: 10.1007/978-3-319-16298-0_29
Disclaimer
This document is prepared by PuriPharm Co., Ltd. for technical communication on cosmetic ingredients only and does not constitute any drug or medical claim. Third-party literature data are cited as technical background; the cited studies evaluated saccharide systems of the same class as, but not identical with, this product. Customers should independently verify the suitability and regulatory compliance of their finished formulations. PuriActives® is a trademark of PuriPharm Co., Ltd.
PURIPHARM CO., LTD.
PuriActives® SH50
Smarter sugar science for modern beauty — skin & hair hydration, from molecule to market.
INCI — SACCHARIDE HYDROLYSATE · CAS 8013-17-0
PuriPharm Co., Ltd. — Technical Product Report
































































































