01 · PuriActives® SupraHDA™: Supramolecular Royal Jelly Lipid Care

Multicomponent supramolecular complex. Royal jelly lipid intelligence. Four-dimensional balance.

Four complementary dimensions support skin and scalp homeostasis. Components: Zinc PCA, 10-HDAA, Xyloglucan, and Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide.

PuriPharm Co. Ltd.

02 · From One Active to Four-Dimensional Homeostasis

Oily, fragile, and fluctuating skin can combine excess sebum, barrier instability, environmental stress, and microbiome imbalance. SupraHDA™ organizes four functional ingredients into a supramolecular system for sebum, barrier, interface, and microbiome management.

Purify, Renew, Buffer, Balance: four components, four pathways, and three application areas—skin, scalp, and hair. Designed for next-generation skin and scalp care. The presentation describes complementary design roles, which do not themselves establish measured product synergy.

03 · Next-Generation Sebum Care: Managing Homeostasis

01 Oily skin: move from degreasing toward oil/water balance and freshness without dryness.

02 Blemish-prone skin: support microbial diversity and balance.

03 Aging care: extend collagen care to barrier homeostasis and oxidative-stress defense.

04 Scalp skinification: apply skin-care science to sebum, microbes, the barrier, and comfort.

Long-term stability, comfort, and microbial balance extend the goals of sebum care.

04 · Product Identity

Product: PuriActives® SupraHDA™. Chinese name: supramolecular royal jelly acid. Type: multicomponent supramolecular active complex.

Positioning: oily, combination, fluctuating, barrier-fragile skin and scalp sebum imbalance care.

Final INCI follows formal TDS/SPEC. If Royal Jelly Extract (CAS 91081-56-0) is confirmed, include it fully in actual formulation order.

Zinc PCA: sebum/freshness and the stratum-corneum moisture environment.

10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid (CAS 1679-53-4): a royal-jelly-lipid-inspired hydroxy fatty acid.

Xyloglucan: a flexible hydrated polysaccharide network for interface buffering and dispersion.

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide: prebiotic microbiome care.

05 · Purify, Renew, Buffer, Balance

01 Purify—Zinc PCA: sebum, freshness, and environmental management; PCA supports stratum-corneum hydration and zinc-related aging-care concepts.

02 Renew—10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid (10-HDAA): epidermal renewal, NMF-related pathways, environmental antioxidant/aging care, and skin/scalp comfort.

03 Buffer—Xyloglucan: hydrated films, interface buffering, dispersion, sensory properties, and smoother/flexible hair feel.

04 Balance—Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide: prebiotic ecology, diversity, and homeostasis, supporting scalp microbiome concepts.

The presentation integrates these roles as supramolecular synergy.

06 · High-Value Actives Need Effective Formulation Design

Challenges: limited aqueous dispersion; crystallization/cloudiness; compatibility between ions and polymers; uneven skin-interface distribution; sensory effects at high use levels; and lack of synergy from simple ingredient addition.

Hydroxy fatty acids and combinations require systematic dispersion, compatibility, interface, and sensory design. SupraHDA™ uses ionic, hydrogen-bonding, hydrophobic, and polysaccharide-network interactions to organize actives and support molecular cooperation.

07 · Multiple Noncovalent Interactions Form a Dynamic Network

Zinc PCA supplies ionic/polar sites. 10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid supplies hydroxyl/carboxyl groups and a hydrophobic chain. Xyloglucan provides a hydroxyl-rich hydrated network. Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide provides oligosaccharide hydrogen bonding and microbiome functions.

Hydrogen bonds dynamically associate hydroxyl/polar groups. Ionic association links zinc with carboxyl/hydroxyl groups reversibly. Hydrophobic interactions organize medium-length chains. The Xyloglucan network supports dispersion/structure, while hydration maintains a moist interface.

The design uses reversible, dynamic, cooperative molecular organization.

08 · Five Steps from Formulation to Interface Performance

01 Association: noncovalent interactions dynamically associate four components.

02 Dispersion: polysaccharide networks support uniform aqueous dispersion.

03 Compatibility: adapt to multiple formats and reduce precipitation/cloudiness risk.

04 Retention: hydrated films support interface residence and uniform contact.

05 Performance: express Purify, Renew, Buffer, and Balance pathways.

Design goals: easier formulation, uniform contact, better sensory properties, and multifunctionality.

09 · Zinc PCA: Sebum and Skin Environment Management

Zinc signal: supports sebum management, less shine/stickiness, and control of unfavorable microbial conditions.

PCA moisture logic: PCA is associated with natural moisturizing factors, supporting stratum-corneum softness/moisture and less tightness after sebum removal.

Photoaging support: cellular research reported reduced UVA-induced AP-1 activation/MMP-1 production and supported collagen synthesis.

The zinc/PCA combination links freshness with moisture, barrier, and photoaging-care concepts. The source’s priority wording does not establish historical novelty.

Ingredient-level cellular evidence: Takino et al. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012;34(1):23–28. DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00676.x.

Source link from the presentation: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00676.x

10 · PCA and the Stratum-Corneum Moisture Environment

Pathway: filaggrin breakdown produces free amino acids and NMF components including PCA, supporting hygroscopicity and softness.

Zinc PCA combines zinc-related care with PCA’s hydration rationale. NMF is the stratum corneum’s own moisture-retention system, and PCA is an important component. Sebum care can preserve hydration.

Ingredient-level physiology: Clar EJ, Fourtanier A. Int J Cosmet Sci. 1981;3(3):101–113. DOI: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.1981.tb00275.x.

Source link from the presentation: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.1981.tb00275.x

11 · Royal Jelly Lipids: Distinct Hydroxy Fatty Acids

10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid (CAS 1679-53-4): saturated ω-hydroxy fatty acid and a core SupraHDA™ INCI; terminal hydroxyl, carboxylic acid, and medium-length hydrophobic chain. Product claims should rely on this molecule and direct finished-product data.

10-Hydroxy-2-Decenoic Acid (10-H2DA / 10-HDA): representative unsaturated royal jelly fatty acid with more extensive published skin research and an amphiphilic structure. Its literature provides family background and mechanism directions.

The molecules have related structures but are distinct. Shared amphiphilic features support biological and assembly concepts. 10-H2DA literature is not direct test data for 10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid or SupraHDA™.

12 · Epidermal Differentiation and Barrier Maturation

Path A: PPARα, IVL/LOR/FLG/TGM1, terminal keratinocyte differentiation, cornified-envelope formation, and barrier integrity.

Path B: SPT/GBA/ACACA, epidermal lipid production, and intercellular lipid support.

The concept concerns the skin’s own barrier-building programs, epidermal renewal, and cornification.

Royal jelly lipid in vitro mechanism research: Yuan et al. J Funct Foods. 2024;122:106505. DOI: 10.1016/j.jff.2024.106505.

Source link from the presentation: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jff.2024.10650

13 · NMF Hydration: Supporting Endogenous Moisture Retention

3D human epidermis study of 10-H2DA at 10/20/40 μmol/L. At 40 μmol/L, total stratum-corneum free amino acids increased approximately 70%.

FLG mRNA, filaggrin protein, and free amino acids increased. AQP3 did not show similarly significant changes.

The proposed route promotes cornification and NMF formation rather than only external humectancy. The source’s “endogenous water creation” phrase is presented here as endogenous moisture retention.

These are 10-H2DA model data, not SupraHDA™ finished-product tests.

Gu et al. Cosmetics. 2017;4(4):48. DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics4040048.

Source link from the presentation: https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics4040048

14 · Published Human Hydration Study

10 healthy volunteers; UV-induced dry skin; a cream containing 0.01% of a synthetic 10-H2DA counterpart; hydration index assessed on days 7 and 21.

Chart change from baseline: baseline 0.0%, day 7 +28.8%, day 21 +60.4%.

The literature supports sustained-hydration potential in dry/barrier-fragile skin formulations. This is royal jelly lipid literature on a 10-H2DA counterpart, not SupraHDA™ product data.

Duplan et al. Eur J Dermatol. 2011;21(6):906–915. DOI: 10.1684/ejd.2011.1531.

Source link from the presentation: https://doi.org/10.1684/ejd.2011.1531

Published human hydration data for a 10-H2DA counterpart: change from baseline (%)

15 · Supporting Cellular Antioxidant Defense

Stress chain: UVB/pollution, ROS, protein/lipid/DNA stress, and barrier fragility.

10-H2DA research: increased NQO1 expression and detoxification/antioxidant responses. Nrf2- and AhR-related signals may participate, with reduced UVB/oxidant-induced cellular damage.

The concept extends radical scavenging to endogenous environmental defense.

Cellular 10-H2DA evidence: Okumura et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2021;22(23):12973. DOI: 10.3390/ijms222312973.

Source link from the presentation: https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms222312973

16 · Two Research Pathways for Collagen Preservation

Zinc PCA pathway: UVA, AP-1, and MMP-1. Research reports inhibition of UVA-induced AP-1, reduced MMP-1, and supported collagen synthesis.

Royal jelly lipid pathway: UVA, ROS, JNK/p38 MAPK, and MMP-1/3. 10-H2DA research reports reduced ROS/MMP-1/MMP-3, supported collagen production, and less cellular senescence.

The design links oxidative-stress and collagen-degradation pathways to firmness, resilience, and youthful radiance concepts.

Ingredient-level Zinc PCA and 10-H2DA literature: Takino 2012, DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00676.x; Zheng 2013;27(10):1269–1277, DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-3083.2012.04707.x.

Source link from the presentation: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00676.x

Source link from the presentation: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-3083.2012.04707.x

17 · Microbiome and Biofilm Research

In vitro Staphylococcus aureus study with sub-inhibitory 10-H2DA: MIC 2.25 mg/mL; biofilm quantity decreased 41.9–72.9%; biofilm cellular metabolic activity decreased 73.6% at 1/2 MIC.

Other observations: less EPS formation, adhesion and aggregation, downregulated sarA/agrA/hla, and reduced hemolysis-related virulence.

These findings inform refined ecological-care concepts for oily/fluctuating skin and scalp, without establishing direct product efficacy.

Gao K et al. Molecules. 2022;27(5):1485. DOI: 10.3390/molecules27051485.

Source link from the presentation: https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules27051485

18 · Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide: Selective Balance

Ingredient-level human study: an α-glucan oligosaccharide gel, whole-face application twice daily for 2 weeks, and metagenomic/DNA sequence analysis.

Results: improved Simpson Index in initially low-diversity participants; trends toward more S. epidermidis and less S. aureus; C. acnes moving toward a more suitable proportion; support for balance/diversity.

Prebiotic care offers selective nutrition for beneficial microbes and supports ecology rather than sterile skin. Face/body/scalp care concepts extend from these ingredient-level findings.

Duan et al. J Soc Cosmet Chem Jpn. 2021;55(2):176–181. DOI: 10.5107/sccj.55.176.

Source link from the presentation: https://doi.org/10.5107/sccj.55.176

19 · Xyloglucan: Active Delivery, Interface, and Comfort

Hydroxyl-rich polysaccharide chains support hydration, flexible films/interface buffering, reduced water-loss/tightness concepts, and improved skin/scalp/hair feel.

Materials research: film-forming Xyloglucan hydrogels, cellular compatibility, maintenance of a moist microenvironment, and platforms for active carriage, protection, and controlled-release research.

Three roles: active carriage, interface protection, and sensory comfort.

Picone et al. Int J Biol Macromol. 2019;121:784–795. DOI: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2018.10.078; Infante et al. AAPS PharmSciTech. 2023;24(1):29. DOI: 10.1208/s12249-022-02472-w (skin/hair film-evaluation methods).

Source link from the presentation: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2018.10.078

Source link from the presentation: https://doi.org/10.1208/s12249-022-02472-w

20 · Four-Dimensional Integration

Purify: Zinc PCA for sebum and freshness. Renew: 10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid for barrier/environmental-defense concepts. Buffer: Xyloglucan for hydrated films/interface buffering. Balance: Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide for prebiotic homeostasis.

Design goals: freshness without dryness, refined ecological management, renewal with barrier care, and performance with a comfortable formulation experience.

21 · Multiple Pathways for Complex Skin Needs

The table retains the presentation’s proposed ingredient, mechanism, and consumer-value mapping. Contributions derive from ingredient/literature research; the mapping does not substitute for direct product validation. In particular, 10-H2DA literature should not be treated as direct 10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid measurements.

Skin need	Key components	Pathway	Consumer value
Visible shine	Zinc PCA	Sebum-related signals and a fresh environment	Lasting freshness / less recurring shine
Pores and blemishes	Zinc PCA + 10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid	Environmental care / biofilm and blemish-trigger concepts	Finer-looking pores / more even texture
Dryness and tightness	Xyloglucan + 10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid	Hydrated films / NMF formation concepts	Softness, hydration, and comfort
Fragile barrier	10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid + Xyloglucan	Cornification, lipid synthesis, and buffering concepts	Barrier stability / tolerance
Microbiome imbalance	Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide	Selective prebiotic support for beneficial microbes	Microbial balance / stable condition
Environmental aging	Zinc PCA + 10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid	Antioxidant defense / less MMP-related degradation	Firmness, resilience, and photoaging-care concepts

22 · Scalp Skinification: Homeostasis Science

Scalp sebum balance: freshness/stability and less recurring oiliness. Scalp microbiome: prebiotic diversity/homeostasis. Scalp barrier: cornification and lipid-environment concepts. Scalp comfort: polysaccharide films buffer interfaces and dryness/tightness. Hair surface care: smoother feel, shine, and combability.

Market language: scalp freshness/balance, microbiome care, barrier care, comfort/hydration, and light smooth hair.

Claims remain cosmetic. No treatment claims for alopecia, medicinal hair growth, seborrheic dermatitis, fungal infections, or permanent dandruff elimination.

The scalp is an extension of skin; the platform supports scalp and hair-care concepts.

23 · Eight Concept Product Directions

Facial: 1 Oil-Balance Serum for oily/combination skin, Zinc PCA with Niacinamide/Panthenol. 2 Microbiome Essence for fluctuating skin, α-glucan oligosaccharide with Ectoin/Betaine. 3 Barrier Comfort Cream for dry/fragile skin, 10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid/Xyloglucan with Ceramides/Cholesterol. 4 Pore Refining Gel for visible pores/blemish-prone skin, gentle-acid alternative strategies and soothing ingredients.

Scalp/hair: 5 Scalp Balance Essence, sebum/microbiome care with water-soluble polysaccharides/peptides. 6 Fresh Scalp Shampoo, mild surfactants for comfort/light roots. 7 Scalp Comfort Mask for dryness/tightness, polysaccharides with Panthenol/Phytosterols. 8 Lightweight Conditioner for smoothness without flatness, amino-acid conditioners.

Suggested partners: Niacinamide, Panthenol, Betaine, Ectoin, Ceramides, Cholesterol, amino acids, mild surfactants, water-soluble polysaccharides, peptides, and phytosterols. Formulation experiments must confirm compatibility.

24 · Formulation Guidance for Multiple Formats

Predisperse in water or add later; avoid prolonged heat; assess electrolyte/anionic/cationic-polymer compatibility; test clarity and long-term stability across pH conditions; verify centrifugation, freeze–thaw, thermal cycling, and light stability; calculate addition from actual active content. Exact specifications, use levels, and conditions follow formal TDS/SPEC.

Facial formats: serums, lotions, creams, hydrogels, sprays, masks. Cleansing/body: facial cleanser, body lotion. Scalp/hair: scalp serum, shampoo, conditioner, hair mask.

Evaluate aqueous and emulsion systems across these applications.

25 · Product Data Roadmap

A Formulation/assembly characterization: aqueous dispersion comparison, turbidity, centrifugation, thermal cycling, FTIR hydrogen-bond shifts, DSC, rheology, and particle size only where applicable.

B In vitro efficacy: FLG, IVL, LOR, TGM1, NQO1, ROS, MMP-1, collagen-related indicators, inflammatory factors.

C Microbiome: S. epidermidis, C. acnes, S. aureus, selective utilization, biofilms, 16S/metagenomics.

D Human skin: sebum, pores, shine, hydration, TEWL, redness, roughness, comfort.

E Scalp/hair: scalp sebum, root freshness, hydration, tightness/itch, visible flakes, combing force, friction, shine, static control, and volume.

Future completed tests will be labeled SupraHDA™ Product Data, clearly separate from ingredient/literature evidence. Build the finished-product evidence chain progressively from A to E.

26 · Conclusion: Modern Royal Jelly Lipid Care

Purify: sebum clarity. Renew: barrier renewal. Buffer: interface protection. Balance: microbiome balance. Skin + Scalp: dual application.

SupraHDA™ combines royal jelly lipid science, zinc functions, polysaccharide interfaces, and prebiotic concepts into a forward-looking homeostasis-care platform.

Royal jelly lipid intelligence. Four-dimensional balance.

27 · References and Related Patents

The references, publication numbers, years, and technical directions supplied in the presentation are retained below. Patents support technical routes/application contexts and are not SupraHDA™ finished-product efficacy data.

1. Takino Y et al. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012;34(1):23–28. DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00676.x

2. Clar EJ, Fourtanier A. Int J Cosmet Sci. 1981;3(3):101–113. DOI: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.1981.tb00275.x

3. Duplan H et al. Eur J Dermatol. 2011;21(6):906–915. DOI: 10.1684/ejd.2011.1531

4. Zheng J et al. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2013;27(10):1269–1277. DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-3083.2012.04707.x

5. Gu L et al. Cosmetics. 2017;4(4):48. DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics4040048

6. Okumura N et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2021;22(23):12973. DOI: 10.3390/ijms222312973

7. Gao K et al. Molecules. 2022;27(5):1485. DOI: 10.3390/molecules27051485

8. Yuan C-Y et al. J Funct Foods. 2024;122:106505. DOI: 10.1016/j.jff.2024.106505

9. Duan Z et al. J Soc Cosmet Chem Jpn. 2021;55(2):176–181. DOI: 10.5107/sccj.55.176

10. Picone P et al. Int J Biol Macromol. 2019;121:784–795. DOI: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2018.10.078

11. Infante VHP et al. AAPS PharmSciTech. 2023;24(1):29. DOI: 10.1208/s12249-022-02472-w

12. Gao C et al. Int J Pharm. 2026;701:127150. DOI: 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2026.127150　 (supramolecular formulation trend reference only)

Related patents (publication number, year, and technical direction)

US6514507B2｜2002｜hydroxy-acid lipid use in skin care

JPH10147514A｜1998｜preparation and use of royal-jelly-derived hydroxydecanoic acid

US20120237494A1｜2012｜hydroxy fatty acids for skin barrier care

GB2498543A｜2013｜hydroxydecanoic acid compositions and skin applications

US10993900B2／EP3041585A2｜supramolecular carriers and active delivery

US20230372218A1｜2023｜polysaccharide–active complexes and personal care

Patents support technical routes and application contexts, not SupraHDA™ finished-product efficacy data.

01 · PuriActives® SupraCaffix™: Supramolecular Caffeic Acid

PuriPharm Active Platform. Caffeic acid enters the supramolecular era.

Supramolecular antioxidant intelligence for skin and scalp.

INCI name: Caffeic Acid. Caffeic Acid × Zinc PCA × Xyloglucan × Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide: a multicomponent supramolecular active system.

PuriPharm Co. Ltd.

02 · One Ingredient, Five Skin and Scalp Care Pathways

01 Antioxidant: catechol-driven radical scavenging and oxidative cascade management.

02 Photoaging: modulation of ROS–MMP-related signals and support for structural protein protection.

03 Clarity: antioxidant, cellular signaling, and melanogenesis pathways for more even-looking skin.

04 Balance: Zinc PCA supports sebum balance, skin comfort, and scalp freshness.

05 Microbiome: prebiotic care supports beneficial microbial ecology and skin/scalp balance.

SupraCaffix™ is a supramolecular composite active platform for multiple skin and scalp applications.

03 · Combined Environmental Stress on Modern Skin and Scalp

Skin: UV- and visible-light-related oxidative stress, urban pollution and particle deposition, sebum oxidation and recurring shine, a fragile barrier and discomfort, and dull or uneven tone.

Scalp: oiliness, odor, visible flakes and discomfort, oxidized sebum and a greasy appearance, microbiome fluctuations with frequent cleansing, and increased oxidative stress around follicles.

An integrated active system addresses oxidation, sebum, the barrier, and microbial ecology.

04 · Caffeic Acid: A Compact, Reactive Natural Hydroxycinnamic Acid

Chemical name: 3,4-Dihydroxycinnamic Acid. Molecular formula: C9H8O4.

Structural features: a catechol group, conjugated double bond, and carboxylic acid. Naturally occurs in plants, coffee, propolis, and plant metabolites.

Caffeic Acid and Caffeine are entirely different molecules.

The catechol group participates in electron or hydrogen-atom transfer, supporting radical scavenging, termination of oxidative chain reactions, and metal-ion interactions.

Source: structure drawn from public chemical data, PubChem—Caffeic Acid.

05 · Formulation Barriers Behind the Activity

1 Limited aqueous solubility and dispersion: low solubility in pure water limits high-loading aqueous formulations.

2 Sensitivity to light, oxygen, and formulation conditions: free caffeic acid can degrade rapidly under light.

3 Color changes after oxidation: phenolic oxidation can affect appearance stability.

4 Limited distribution and availability in complex emulsions: micelle, gel, and microparticle delivery research addresses this need.

5 Skin and follicular contact requires optimization: distribution and follicular deposition depend on delivery design.

Literature solubility data: in vitro measurements (n = 3, mean ± SD) show solubility below 1 mg/mL in pure water, markedly lower than in 30% ethanol. Aqueous use requires systematic solubilization and protection.

The technical objective is a molecular microenvironment better suited to cosmetic use.

Sources: Jokubaite et al. Gels. 2024;10(12):794; Mazzotta et al. Molecules. 2024;29(14):3329; dos Santos et al. Saudi Pharm J. 2019;27:791–797.

06 · Four Components, One Integrated System

Caffeic Acid, antioxidant core: radical scavenging, photoaging defense, even-looking tone, and a research basis for sebum/blemish care.

Zinc PCA, balance core: sebum management, skin comfort, a research basis for MMP-1/collagen protection, and scalp freshness.

Xyloglucan, interface core: polysaccharide film formation, a hydrated interface, contact with skin/hair surfaces, and comfortable sensory properties.

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, microbiome core: prebiotic design, beneficial microbial ecology, and skin/scalp balance.

The presentation describes a dynamic, multisite composite system formed through noncovalent supramolecular interactions.

07 · From Four Components to a Dynamic Microenvironment

Hydrogen bonding: caffeic acid phenolic hydroxyls and polysaccharide hydroxyls.

Dynamic coordination/ionic interactions: caffeic acid carboxyl and phenolic hydroxyl groups with Zn²⁺.

π–π interactions: caffeic acid aromatic rings.

Chain entanglement and multipoint binding: the Xyloglucan polymer network.

Hydrophilic microenvironment: Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide contributes.

Dynamic self-assembly: multicomponent noncovalent assembly.

The schematic represents an irregular, dynamic, multipoint molecular network, rather than a regular liposome or nanosphere. Reversible interactions incorporate active small molecules into a hydrophilic polysaccharide/zinc network.

08 · Reducing Practical Barriers to Caffeic Acid

Disperse: supports aqueous use and dispersion in toners, gels, and other water-based formats.

Protect: a protective environment aims to reduce direct exposure to light, oxygen, and environmental factors.

Interface: polysaccharide networks support contact with skin, scalp, and hair surfaces.

Multifunction: combines antioxidant, sebum, barrier, and microbiome care concepts.

Literature accelerated-light experiment: free caffeic acid solutions (CA 5–30 μg/mL) degraded substantially over 20–120 min, while polymeric micelles MC10CA/MC20CA largely retained initial concentrations through 120 min. These carrier findings support protective-environment design and are not direct SupraCaffix™ test results.

Source: Mazzotta et al. Formulation of Polymeric Micelles to Increase the Solubility and Photostability of Caffeic Acid. Molecules. 2024;29(14):3329.

09 · Catechol-Driven Antioxidant Defense

Pathway: UV/pollution/environmental stress increases ROS and radicals, lipid peroxidation, NF-κB/AP-1 inflammatory signaling, and damage to proteins, lipids, and cellular structures. The diagram marks CA intervention at multiple points.

Caffeic acid scavenges radicals, terminates oxidative chain reactions, donates electrons or hydrogen atoms, reduces lipid peroxidation pressure, and modulates oxidative-stress-related NF-κB/AP-1 signals.

Literature mouse skin model with UVB 150 mJ/cm²: caffeic acid at 5 and 20 μM reduced ROS and ONOO⁻ generation in a concentration-dependent manner. Figure symbols: ##/### vs control; */**/*** vs UVB.

Source: Kim et al. Anti-Wrinkle and Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Active Garlic Components and the Inhibition of MMPs via NF-κB Signaling. PLoS ONE. 2013;8(9):e73877.

The concept extends from radical scavenging to oxidative cascade management.

10 · From ROS to MMPs: Photoaging Defense

Pathway: UVB/UVA or environmental stress increases ROS, activates NF-κB/AP-1, increases MMP expression, and promotes collagen degradation, associated with visible fine lines, laxity, and roughness. CA and Zn²⁺ interventions are shown schematically.

Caffeic acid research: protection of UVB-treated human fibroblasts, reduced oxidative stress, supported viability, and modulation of MMP-related photoaging signals.

Zinc PCA research: inhibition of UVA-induced AP-1 activation, reduced MMP-1 production, and supported type I collagen synthesis.

Literature skin-replica images: caffeic acid 5 μM reduced wrinkle formation compared with UVB 150 mJ/cm².

Sources: Jeon et al. J Food Biochem. 2019;43:e12701; Takino et al. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012;34(1):23–28; Kim et al. PLoS ONE. 2013;8(9):e73877.

11 · Caffeic Acid × Zinc PCA: Structural Protein Protection

Caffeic acid: antioxidant reduction of upstream ROS stress, NF-κB/AP-1 modulation, reduced MMP-related collagen damage, and support for post-light cellular homeostasis.

Zinc PCA: UVA-related MMP-1 modulation, a supportive collagen-synthesis environment, and zinc involvement in skin enzymes and cellular defense.

Literature Masson trichrome images of UVB-exposed mouse skin (collagen blue): A, no-UVB control; B, UVB 150 mJ/cm²; C and D, UVB plus caffeic acid 5/20 μM. Collagen fibers were better preserved with caffeic acid (Kim 2013).

The combined design links oxidative/inflammatory signal management with collagen protection and cellular homeostasis.

Sources: Kim 2013; Takino 2012.

12 · Skin Tone Clarity Beyond a Single Tyrosinase Pathway

The concept addresses oxidative pressure and pigmentation, post-inflammatory uneven tone, and UV-related pigment signaling. The diagram links CA, MITF, and TYR/melanogenesis.

Caffeic acid supports a multidimensional concept through antioxidant activity, cellular signaling, and melanogenesis-related pathways.

01 Antioxidant pathway: less oxidative pressure on pigment signals.

02 Cellular signaling: modulation of MITF-related transcription.

03 Melanogenesis: regulation observed in B16 cells.

Literature B16 melanoma cell model: caffeic acid 0.15 mM significantly reduced melanin (*** vs PBS). Reference groups were ferulic acid 0.31 mM (**) and hydroquinone 0.018 mM (*).

Concept: reduce sources of dullness for clearer, more even-looking radiance.

Source: Maruyama et al. Biol Pharm Bull. 2018;41(5):806–810.

13 · Managing Sebum Oxidation and Visible Blemishes

Pathway: excess sebum, sebum oxidation, shine/pores/unstable skin condition, and visible blemishes/redness.

Caffeic acid: patent research on sebocytes, acne-associated microorganisms, and pro-inflammatory factors. Zinc PCA: oily skin/scalp use and sebum balance. Polyphenol antioxidants: reduced sebum oxidation pressure. Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide: microbiome-friendly balance.

Cosmetic language: shine management, fresh-feeling pores, care for recurring blemish-prone skin, visible redness/discomfort management, and a clear skin feel. Therapeutic claims are excluded.

The concept manages sebum oxidation and skin fluctuations.

Source: KR101409111B1. Composition for treating or preventing acne comprising caffeic acid or its derivative as an active ingredient. Published 2014 (patent title).

14 · Zinc PCA: More Than Sebum Management

Sebum: balanced sebum and a fresh skin feel. Photoaging: modulation of UVA-induced AP-1/MMP-1. Collagen: support for type I collagen synthesis. Scalp: oily or stuffy scalp requiring freshness.

Mechanism schematic from in vitro human dermal fibroblasts (Takino 2012): UVA activates AP-1; Zinc PCA inhibits this pathway, reducing MMP-1 and collagen-degradation pressure. The study also observed increased type I collagen synthesis. Original numerical data should be consulted in the paper.

SupraCaffix™ assigns Zinc PCA roles in sebum balance, photoaging defense, and scalp freshness.

Source: Takino et al. Zinc L-pyrrolidone carboxylate inhibits the UVA-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 by in vitro cultured skin fibroblasts, whereas it enhances their collagen synthesis. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012;34(1):23–28.

15 · Xyloglucan: A Light, Flexible Polysaccharide Interface

A plant-derived hydrophilic polysaccharide with multipoint hydrogen bonding and chain entanglement. It supports a flexible continuous surface film, contact with skin/scalp/hair, hydration, smoothness, and comfort, while organizing the structural network and interface.

The open-access repeating-unit image shows backbone and side chains underlying hydrogen bonding and entanglement. Mucosal models support barrier protection and adhesion concepts, which do not directly establish human skin efficacy.

Concept: natural active residence and a gentler skin/hair feel.

Source: Piqué, Gómez-Guillén, Montero. Int J Mol Sci. 2018;19(3):673.

16 · Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide: Supporting Microbial Ecology

A prebiotic oligosaccharide supports beneficial microorganisms through selective nutrition. It suits skin/scalp care under frequent cleansing, sebum fluctuations, and environmental stress.

The design supports modern microbiome care and concepts of barrier comfort, microbial balance, and reduced recurring fluctuations.

The schematic expresses diversity, balance, and barrier comfort as an ecological network, without representing a specific species profile.

Source: Phan et al. Topical Prebiotics and Microbiome Metabolites—A Systematic Review of the Effects of Altering the Skin Microbiome. J Integr Dermatol.

17 · Integrated Mechanism: Defense, Balance, Barrier, and Microbiome

01 Defend: caffeic acid manages ROS, lipid oxidation, and photoaging signals.

02 Balance: Zinc PCA supports sebum balance, collagen protection, and scalp freshness.

03 Shield: Xyloglucan establishes a light hydrated film and flexible contact interface.

04 Rebalance: Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide supports a microbiome-friendly skin/scalp environment.

The platform integrates active phenolic acid, zinc homeostasis, polysaccharide protection, and prebiotic concepts. These complementary design roles do not by themselves verify product-level synergy.

18 · Skincare Application Map

Daytime antioxidant serum; nighttime recovery serum; urban environmental-stress care; photoaging-defense lotion; brightening/even-tone serum; oily/combination skin care; post-blemish tone care; sensitive oily skin balance; fresh-feeling pore serum; microbiome-friendly cream; and body roughness/pigmentation care.

One platform supports antioxidant, even-tone, sebum, barrier, and microbiome development pathways.

19 · Scalp Care: Antioxidant, Sebum, and Microbiome Management

Scalp chain: increased sebum, oxidation, microbiome fluctuations, odor/stuffiness/visible flakes/discomfort, and increased stress around follicles.

Corresponding roles: caffeic acid for antioxidant/sebum oxidation management; Zinc PCA for balance/freshness; Xyloglucan for a comfortable hydrated film; Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide for microbiome-friendly care.

Key message: extend cleansing into scalp ecological management.

20 · Follicle and Root Care: An Antioxidant Interface Design

Follicles are skin appendages and local interfaces for actives. Caffeic acid microparticle research shows that carrier design can increase follicular deposition. Oxidative stress relates to follicular cellular homeostasis and the hair-cycle environment. Propolis research associated with caffeic acid observed hair-matrix keratinocyte proliferation and anagen-related phenomena.

Positioning: support a follicular vitality environment, healthy-looking roots, and scalp antioxidant care in scalp serums/root-care products.

Differential stripping data: microparticle formulations deposited more caffeic acid in follicles and epidermis/dermis than free caffeic acid.

S1–S20 stratum-corneum fractions and epidermis/dermis distribution: carrier formulations significantly increased retention in epidermal/dermal layers. These are published carrier results, not direct SupraCaffix™ delivery measurements.

Sources: dos Santos et al. Saudi Pharm J. 2019;27:791–797; Miyata et al. J Agric Food Chem. 2014 (Brazilian propolis study).

21 · Hair Fiber Care: Polyphenols and Polysaccharide Films

Sunlight, heat styling, coloring/perming, and pollution can increase oxidative stress and roughness. Caffeic acid provides an antioxidant concept; Xyloglucan supplies a light flexible surface film.

Formulation concepts address dryness, frizz, combability, and shine, including leave-on care, scalp/hair dual serums, and pollution-protection sprays.

Suggested formats: 01 leave-on spray; 02 hair antioxidant serum; 03 post-color care; 04 heat-damage care; 05 dual scalp/hair serum; 06 light conditioner/mask.

One platform supports integrated scalp-to-hair care.

Source: Effects of Natural Polyphenols on Skin and Hair Health—A Review. 2022 (background review).

22 · One Platform, Multiple Formats

01 Antioxidant water/toner. 02 Water-based antioxidant serum. 03 Even-tone serum emulsion. 04 Sebum-balancing gel serum. 05 Microbiome-friendly lotion. 06 Scalp serum/tonic. 07 Fresh-feeling sebum-care shampoo. 08 Leave-on hair spray.

Combination directions: Niacinamide, Panthenol, Ectoin, Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramides, Amino Acids, Tocopherol, Ferulic Acid (combined polyphenol antioxidant concept), and Caffeine (scalp products, distinct from Caffeic Acid).

Actual compatibility and stability testing are required. These directions do not imply complete compatibility.

23 · Formulator’s Technical Guidance

Addition: preferably at a lower-temperature stage, avoiding prolonged heat. Consult PuriPharm technical documentation for exact temperature.

pH: consider mildly acidic to near-neutral systems and avoid prolonged distinctly alkaline conditions. Consult product stability information for the applicable range.

Formats: evaluate aqueous products, serums, gels, lotions, scalp tonics, and shampoos; adjust dispersion and addition processes accordingly.

Stability: reduce prolonged strong-light/air exposure, consider light-protective/low-oxygen-permeability packaging, assess antioxidant/preservative compatibility, and avoid strong oxidants.

Metals and chelators: the product contains Zinc PCA. High levels of strong chelators may affect zinc-related interactions; EDTA use requires formulation testing.

Exact temperature, pH range, and recommended use level follow PuriPharm Co. Ltd. TDS. No unconfirmed fixed values are provided.

24 · References

The complete references and molecular-structure source from the presentation are retained below.

1 Jeon J, et al. Protective activity of caffeic acid and sinapic acid against UVB-induced photoaging in human fibroblasts. J Food Biochem. 2019;43:e12701. DOI: 10.1111/jfbc.12701.

2 Takino Y, et al. Zinc L-pyrrolidone carboxylate inhibits the UVA-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 by in vitro cultured skin fibroblasts, whereas it enhances their collagen synthesis. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012;34(1):23–28. DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00676.x.

3 dos Santos LCO, et al. Caffeic acid skin absorption: Delivery of microparticles to hair follicles. Saudi Pharm J. 2019;27:791–797. DOI: 10.1016/j.jsps.2019.04.015.

4 Maruyama H, Kawakami F, Lwin TT, Imai M, Shamsa F. Biochemical Characterization of Ferulic Acid and Caffeic Acid Which Effectively Inhibit Melanin Synthesis via Different Mechanisms in B16 Melanoma Cells. Biol Pharm Bull. 2018;41(5):806–810. DOI: 10.1248/bpb.b17-00892.

5 Kim SR, et al. Anti-Wrinkle and Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Active Garlic Components and the Inhibition of MMPs via NF-κB Signaling. PLoS ONE. 2013;8(9):e73877. DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0073877.

6 Miyata S, et al. Stimulatory Effect of Brazilian Propolis on Hair Growth through Proliferation of Keratinocytes in Mice. J Agric Food Chem. 2014. DOI: 10.1021/jf503184s.

7 Mazzotta E, et al. Formulation of Polymeric Micelles to Increase the Solubility and Photostability of Caffeic Acid. Molecules. 2024;29(14):3329. DOI: 10.3390/molecules29143329.

8 Jokubaite M, et al. Potential Unlocking of Biological Activity of Caffeic Acid by Incorporation into Hydrophilic Gels. Gels. 2024;10(12):794.

9 Piqué N, Gómez-Guillén MC, Montero MP. Xyloglucan, a Plant Polymer with Barrier Protective Properties over the Mucous Membranes: An Overview. Int J Mol Sci. 2018;19(3):673. DOI: 10.3390/ijms19030673.

10 Phan S, et al. Topical Prebiotics and Microbiome Metabolites: A Systematic Review of the Effects of Altering the Skin Microbiome. J Integr Dermatol. DOI: 10.64550/joid.d9xw9z64.

11 Effects of Natural Polyphenols on Skin and Hair Health: A Review. 2022.

12 Korean Patent KR101409111B1. Composition for treating or preventing acne comprising caffeic acid or its derivative as an active ingredient. Published 2014.

分子结构参考：PubChem, Caffeic Acid（公开化学数据）。

25 · Built on Published Science, Designed for Modern Formulation

Evidence pyramid: patent evidence for caffeic acid sebum/blemish/cosmetic applications; delivery/formulation science on caffeic acid and follicles; ingredient science on Caffeic Acid, Zinc PCA, Xyloglucan, and Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide; and a product-specific physicochemical, stability, and efficacy data framework for SupraCaffix™.

The final category is presented as a data framework: this deck does not supply numerical product-specific validation. Published ingredient/carrier results should retain their original attribution.

Caffeic acid supplies the antioxidant core, Zinc PCA supports balance, Xyloglucan creates a flexible interface, and Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide connects microbiome care. From facial antioxidant care to scalp balance, the platform supports multifunctional formulation development.

PuriPharm Co. Ltd.

01 · PuriActives® Supra Series

From difficult-to-use actives to formulation-ready performance.

PuriPharm Co., Ltd. Cosmetic Active Ingredients. Technical Presentation.

02 · Why Supramolecular Technology: Active Value and Formulation Challenges

High-value ingredients with biological activity or efficacy potential can still face 11 common challenges in real cosmetic formulations.

Solubility and dispersion: insufficient water solubility, difficult dispersion, crystallization or precipitation, and uneven distribution.

Stability: limited oxidative stability, limited light stability, and pH sensitivity.

Compatibility and application: limited formulation compatibility, dependence on organic solvents, difficult development, and incomplete translation of molecular activity into finished-product performance.

Core conclusion: scientific value becomes product value when an active can be incorporated successfully, remain stable, distribute uniformly, and perform effectively.

03 · Supramolecular Chemistry: Recognition, Organization, and Cooperation

Conventional chemistry examines how atoms form molecules through covalent bonds. Supramolecular chemistry examines how molecules recognize, bind, arrange, and cooperate through reversible noncovalent interactions to form higher-order organized systems.

Definition: the science of ordered molecular assemblies formed through noncovalent interactions.

Key interactions: hydrogen bonding, electrostatic and hydrophobic interactions, van der Waals forces, π–π interactions, host–guest interactions, molecular recognition, and metal-ion coordination.

Individual molecules organize into supramolecular assemblies through reversible noncovalent interactions.

Sources: Lehn J.-M. Supramolecular Chemistry. Science 1993, 260, 1762–1763. DOI: 10.1126/science.8511582; Supramolecular Chemistry—Scope and Perspectives (Nobel Lecture). Angew. Chem. Int. Ed. 1988, 27, 89–112.

04 · Understanding the System: Optimizing the Molecular Environment

Conventional active performance depends on the aqueous and oil phases, pH, salts, temperature, and other ingredients. Functional components in a supramolecular system create a cooperative molecular environment around the active.

The presentation compares this to a molecular team supporting an active facing formulation challenges.

Conventional pathway: an isolated active encounters an unfavorable environment and solubility, stability, and compatibility problems.

Supramolecular pathway: the active and functional supporting components form an organized system through noncovalent interactions, creating an environment better suited to formulation.

05 · System Formation: From Separate Components to a Dynamic Network

An active, functional supporting components, and an aqueous phase or specific formulation environment organize into a dynamic supramolecular network through reversible noncovalent interactions.

These include hydrogen bonding, electrostatic interactions, hydrophobic association, molecular recognition, and coordination. The reversible, dynamic, cooperative network creates a functional molecular environment.

A supramolecular system does not necessarily create a new covalent chemical substance. Its function arises from component organization, interactions, and cooperative behavior.

06 · Conventional Actives and Supramolecular Systems

Conventional actives primarily rely on individual molecules. Performance depends strongly on solvent conditions, with potential solubility and dispersion problems. Stability and compatibility require separate solutions, while actives and supporting systems remain relatively independent.

Supramolecular systems combine functional components and tailor the molecular environment. They can support compatibility and uniform distribution, reduce some application barriers, and provide complementary functions, with emphasis on finished-product performance.

Purposeful organization offers the possibility of synergistic value greater than the sum of its parts. This describes a platform design objective rather than verified synergy for every product.

07 · From Formulation Challenges to Solutions

The table maps formulation challenges to molecular strategies and practical value for formulators. Development starts from a formulation problem and uses molecular strategies to create actionable formulation value.

Formulation challenge	Supramolecular strategy	Formulation value
Insufficient water solubility	Create a hydrophilic molecular environment	Easier incorporation into water-based systems
Crystallization or precipitation	Intermolecular interactions and organized assembly	Improved dispersion and storage performance
Insufficient stability	Create a supportive microenvironment	Improved formulation robustness
Limited system compatibility	A cooperative multicomponent molecular system	Greater formulation flexibility
Uneven distribution	Improve molecular-level dispersion	More uniform active distribution
Limited active functionality	Combine with functional supporting components	Multidimensional formulation value

08 · Supra Series: A Platform for Real Formulations

PuriActives® Supra Series comprises multifunctional supramolecular active systems. Each combines a high-value cosmetic active with designed functional supporting components according to its molecular properties. Noncovalent interactions create a cooperative environment intended to improve ease of use, compatibility, and overall functional value.

The platform can expand to different actives.

Three layers: the core active, a supramolecular support system, and a formulation-ready functional system.

09 · Development Purpose: Bridging Scientific Potential and Commercial Formulations

A molecule with scientific potential is not automatically a formulation-ready commercial cosmetic ingredient.

01 Improve the practical value of high-value actives.

02 Make difficult actives easier to formulate.

03 Improve use in water-based systems.

04 Support stability and uniform distribution.

05 Reduce development barriers.

06 Create multifunctional cooperative systems through supporting components.

07 Translate scientific potential into commercially feasible ingredients.

08 Bring active concepts closer to finished-product development.

10 · Core Objective: Connecting Molecular Potential and Real Performance

To make high-value active ingredients easier to use and more effective in real cosmetic formulations through supramolecular organization.

The pathway connects molecular potential, supramolecular organization, formulation performance, and perceptible product value.

11 · Four Development Principles

01 Formulation readiness: turn difficult actives into convenient ingredient systems.

02 Molecular compatibility: create a suitable physicochemical environment.

03 Synergistic functionality: combine complementary functions of the core active and supporting components.

04 Real formulation performance: consider experimental molecular activity alongside the actual state of use in finished cosmetics.

Supra applies supramolecular science to real formulation needs.

12 · Typical Architecture of a Supra System

A system may include a core active, metal ions or mineral-derived functional components, polysaccharide or oligosaccharide supporting components, and hydrophilic and hydrophobic regions.

Hydrogen-bond networks, electrostatic interactions, and coordination contribute to a dynamic cooperative supramolecular network. Dashed lines illustrate hydrogen bonding and dynamic cooperation.

The diagram presents the platform’s general design logic. Specific components and organization depend on the core active’s physicochemical properties and intended use.

13 · Representative Products

S1 PuriActives® SupraFerulix™: a supramolecular ferulic acid system. Ferulic acid offers antioxidant and photoaging-care potential but faces solubility, stability, and compatibility challenges in aqueous formulations.

S2 PuriActives® SupraSalix: a supramolecular salicylic acid system. Salicylic acid supports pore cleansing, exfoliation, and oily/acne-prone skin care, with limitations in water solubility and pH compatibility.

S3 PuriActives® SupraHDA™: a supramolecular 10-HDA system. This characteristic royal-jelly-related functional molecule has skin and scalp care potential but presents practical formulation challenges.

S4 PuriActives® SupraCaffix™: a supramolecular caffeic acid system. Caffeic acid offers polyphenol antioxidant value, with aqueous solubility, oxidative stability, and compatibility requiring optimization.

Sources: Srinivasan et al. 2007; Saija et al. 2000; Arif 2015; Zhang et al. 2022; Sugiyama et al. 2012; Yang et al. 2018. Original bibliographic details appear in the final section.

14 · Supramolecular Organization and Conventional Delivery

Supramolecular technology is defined by purposeful molecular organization and functional cooperation through reversible noncovalent interactions. Its definition does not depend on nanoscale size or physical encapsulation.

It can combine with liposomes, nanodelivery, and other technologies, with a distinct design rationale. The table summarizes the main features.

Technology	Main features
Solubilization	Primarily improves dissolution or dispersion in a solvent.
Microcapsules / encapsulation	Primarily encloses actives within physical wall materials.
Liposomes	Primarily carries actives in lipid bilayers or vesicles.
Nanodelivery	Typically focuses on particle size, surface area, dispersion, and delivery performance.
Supramolecular technology	Organizes molecules into cooperative systems through reversible noncovalent interactions.

15 · Value for Formulators: Practical Molecular Science

Ease of use: easier incorporation, reduced reliance on strong solvents, and support for water-based development.

Formulation performance: supports uniform distribution, design flexibility, and formats including serums, gels, and lotions.

Development value: opportunities for multifunctional concepts, simpler development steps, new scalp-serum and cleansing/conditioning applications, and translation of high-value molecules into commercial products.

Advanced molecular science made practical for formulators. The image illustrates development across serum, gel, and lotion formats.

16 · Skin, Hair, and Scalp Care Directions

Skin care: antioxidant care, aging and photoaging care, skin brightening, oily/acne-prone skin care, exfoliation, soothing, barrier support, sensitive-skin formulations, protection from external stressors, serums, and functional lotions.

Hair and scalp care: scalp sebum management, soothing, antioxidant care, microenvironment management, pollution protection, scalp serums, functional shampoos and conditioners, and comprehensive hair/scalp care.

Specific directions for each Supra product should follow its core active and actual test data.

17 · Key Questions, Answered

Q1 What is supramolecular technology? It purposefully organizes molecules into cooperative functional systems through noncovalent interactions such as hydrogen bonding, electrostatic and hydrophobic interactions, and molecular recognition, creating a suitable environment for actives.

Q2 Why develop Supra Series? To address limitations in solubility, stability, dispersion, compatibility, and practical use, bridging molecular potential and real formulation performance.

18 · Molecular Organization. Formulation Freedom. Active Performance.

Building the molecular environment where actives perform better.

PuriPharm Co., Ltd.

Selected references below retain the bibliographic information supplied in the presentation.

Lehn J.-M. Science 1993, 260, 1762–1763. DOI: 10.1126/science.8511582

Lehn J.-M. Angew. Chem. Int. Ed. 1988, 27, 89–112. DOI: 10.1002/anie.198800891

Cram D. J. Angew. Chem. Int. Ed. 1988, 27, 1009–1020.

Pedersen C. J. Angew. Chem. Int. Ed. 1988, 27, 1021–1027.

Lehn J.-M. Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci. USA 2002, 99, 4763–4768.

Lehn J.-M. Chem. Soc. Rev. 2007, 36, 151–160. DOI: 10.1039/b616752g

Aida T., Meijer E. W., Stupp S. I. Science 2012, 335, 813–817.

Webber M. J., Langer R. Chem. Soc. Rev. 2017, 46, 6600–6620.

Srinivasan M. et al. J. Clin. Biochem. Nutr. 2007, 40, 92–100.

Saija A. et al. Int. J. Pharm. 2000, 199, 39–47.

Arif T. Clin. Cosmet. Investig. Dermatol. 2015, 8, 455–461. DOI: 10.2147/CCID.S84765

Zhang L. et al. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2022, 21, 3398–3405.

Sugiyama T. et al. Endocr. Metab. Immune Disord. Drug Targets 2012.

Yang Y.-C. et al. BMC Complement. Altern. Med. 2018, 18.

01 · PuriActives® Supra-Allantoin

Beyond soothing: from skin barrier care to skin and scalp microbiome balance.

PuriActives® Supramolecular Care System. PuriPharm Co. Ltd.

02 · Contents: From Molecule to Application

03 · Product Concept: From Soothing to Integrated Care

PuriActives® Supra-Allantoin combines Zinc PCA, Allantoin, Xyloglucan, and Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide. The presentation describes an integrated supramolecular care system in which four components cooperate within a hydrophilic network to address sebum management, soothing and recovery, flexible film formation, and microbiome balance across skin, scalp, and hair care.

Purify: Zinc PCA for sebum and scalp environment management.

Soothe: Allantoin for soothing and recovery.

Protect: Xyloglucan for a flexible film and barrier interface.

Balance: Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide for microbiome balance.

One active system addresses oiliness, irritation, barrier stress, and microbial balance in sensitive oily skin and scalp.

Source: PuriPharm public supramolecular product platform, puriactives.com (platform narrative).

Source link from the presentation: https://www.puriactives.com/en/?p=1281

04 · Supra-Architecture: Four Components, One Integrated System

Zinc PCA (INCI: Zinc PCA): sebum balance, freshness, and scalp environment management. Functional Zn²⁺ ions and the skin-compatible PCA carrier form a small functional node.

Allantoin (INCI: Allantoin): soothing, recovery, and support for stressed skin. This polar ureide molecule forms the soothing and recovery core.

Xyloglucan (INCI: Xyloglucan): flexible film formation, a biomimetic interface, and support for skin cell recovery. A hydroxyl-rich polysaccharide backbone creates a flexible hydrophilic network.

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide (INCI: Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide; α-GOS): prebiotic microbiome balance and barrier support. These short-chain sugars can be selectively utilized by skin commensals.

Sources: Allantoin—Araújo et al. 2010; Xyloglucan—Nie & Deters 2013; α-GOS—Duan et al. 2021; Zinc PCA—public international supplier technical information. Full references appear in the final section.

Source link from the presentation: https://ajiaminoscience.eu/personalcare/produit/ajidew-zn-100/

05 · Supra-Architecture: Dynamic Multipoint Interactions

The presentation proposes a dynamic hydrophilic network in which Zn²⁺/Zinc PCA functional nodes interact with Allantoin polar sites and polysaccharide hydroxyl groups through coordination, hydrogen bonding, electrostatic interactions, and hydrophilic associations.

Structural modules comprise Zinc PCA functional nodes, a hydroxyl-rich flexible Xyloglucan backbone, Allantoin carbonyl/ureide polar sites, and an α-GOS short-chain sugar ecological module. The architecture integrates four care functions in one system.

06 · Molecular Mechanisms: Four Complementary Functions

Zinc PCA: functional zinc ions and the skin-compatible PCA carrier support sebum and microbial environment management.

Allantoin: a ureide molecule provides the soothing and recovery core.

Xyloglucan: a dense hydroxyl-rich polysaccharide network creates a flexible hydrophilic interface.

α-GOS: prebiotic sugars can be selectively utilized by skin commensals.

Small molecules deliver activity, polysaccharides organize the interface, and prebiotic sugars extend care into the microbial ecosystem. A dynamic supramolecular network forms the center.

Sources: Zinc PCA sebum, freshness, and dandruff-care applications—public international supplier information; XG film formation—Kochumalayil et al. 2010, DOI: 10.1039/C0JM00367K.

Source link from the presentation: https://ajiaminoscience.eu/personalcare/produit/ajidew-zn-100/

07 · From Cell Recovery to Barrier Homeostasis

Surface ecosystem (α-GOS/Zinc PCA): an ingredient-level human α-GOS study reported improved Simpson index in the low-diversity group, with trends toward increased S. epidermidis and decreased S. aureus.

Stratum corneum (α-GOS): patent ex vivo/cellular experiments observed changes in the barrier-associated proteins filaggrin and involucrin (NL2037619A).

Epidermis (Xyloglucan): in vitro work supports proliferation and migration of human keratinocytes and fibroblasts, involving pro-proliferative signaling (Nie & Deters 2013).

Dermis/recovery layer (Allantoin): an animal open-wound model suggested inflammatory modulation, fibroblast proliferation, and extracellular matrix (ECM) synthesis (Araújo 2010; preclinical evidence).

Repair the tissue interface, support the barrier, and rebalance the ecosystem. The layer diagram illustrates mechanisms and does not establish product delivery depth.

Sources: Duan 2021, 10.5107/sccj.55.176; NL2037619A; Nie & Deters 2013, 10.1155/2013/359756; Araújo 2010, 10.1590/S0102-86502010000500014.

Source link from the presentation: https://doi.org/10.1590/S0102-86502010000500014

08 · Skin Benefits: Sensitive, Oily, and Barrier-Stressed Skin

Calm without heaviness. Balance without stripping. Protect beyond the surface.

Soothing and recovery: Allantoin + Xyloglucan combine a soothing core with a biomimetic interface to support stressed skin recovery.

Shine and sebum balance: Zinc PCA supports management of visible sebum and a fresh feel.

Barrier and moisture environment: Xyloglucan + α-GOS combine flexible hydrophilic film formation and prebiotic support.

Microbiome balance: α-GOS + Zinc PCA integrate prebiotic microbial management with sebum environment management.

Applications: sensitive oily skin serums, post-procedure/post-exfoliation care concepts, sebum-balancing soothing lotions, complementary care for acne-prone skin, and fresh-feeling men’s care.

Source: a case series of 11 participants using a Zinc PCA-containing facial cream reported improvement in all participants after 8 weeks (Piquero-Casals et al. 2020). This is evidence from a multi-ingredient formulation.

Source link from the presentation: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32574015/

09 · Scalp Is Skin: Extending Barrier and Microbiome Science

Oil balance, scalp comfort, the microbiome, and hair surface care.

Zinc PCA: freshness and use in dandruff-care formulations. Allantoin: soothing and sensitive scalp care concepts. α-GOS: microbiome-friendly scalp care concepts. Xyloglucan: flexible film formation and deposition-interface concepts for hair care.

Formats: sebum-balancing shampoos, scalp serums, complementary dandruff-care products, sensitive scalp cleansing and conditioning, oily-root sprays, and leave-on scalp care.

Image: illustrative macro photography of scalp and hair roots.

Source: a prospective cohort of 20 participants reported improvement with a salicylic acid/piroctone olamine/Zinc PCA scalp regimen (PMID 39778065, 2025). These results relate to a multi-ingredient regimen.

Source link from the presentation: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/39778065/

10 · Evidence Architecture: Clarifying Evidence Strength

The presentation organizes its system narrative using human, ex vivo, cellular, materials, and patent evidence. The diagram lists, from top to bottom, the Supra-Allantoin system, human/clinical evidence, ex vivo/cellular evidence, preclinical/materials evidence, and patent/supplier data.

Human/clinical: facial flora research on α-GOS and multi-ingredient facial/scalp formulations containing Zinc PCA.

Ex vivo/cellular: α-GOS-associated filaggrin/involucrin findings and XG skin cell proliferation/migration.

Preclinical/materials: Allantoin animal wound models and XG film properties.

Patent/supplier: allantoin–metal complexes and public Zinc PCA technical data.

Communication follows the evidence and its limits. Ingredient, combination-formulation, patent, and materials studies do not establish direct human efficacy of the complete Supra-Allantoin system. Details follow in the next three sections and references.

Source link from the presentation: https://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/sccj/55/2/55_176/_article/-char/en

11 · Human α-GOS Evidence: Two-Week Microbiome Observations

Study design: an α-GOS-containing gel was applied to the whole face twice daily for 2 weeks. Wet-swab sampling and DNA metagenomic analysis assessed facial flora.

Result 1: microbial diversity improved in the group with a low initial Simpson Index (SI). C. acnes abundance moved toward a more appropriate level in that group.

Result 2: the overall population showed trends toward increased S. epidermidis and decreased S. aureus.

Prebiotic care supports ecological balance. This is ingredient-level human evidence for α-GOS, and trend findings retain the source wording.

Source: Duan Z, Yokota M, Eda Y. The Effect of Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide on Facial Skin Flora. J Soc Cosmet Chem Jpn. 2021;55(2):176–181. DOI: 10.5107/sccj.55.176.

Source link from the presentation: https://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/sccj/55/2/55_176/_article/-char/en

12 · Recovery Evidence: Allantoin and a Biomimetic Polysaccharide Interface

Allantoin (preclinical animal model): histological findings in the open-wound model of Araújo et al. 2010 involved inflammatory modulation, fibroblast proliferation, and ECM synthesis, providing a preclinical basis for soothing and recovery mechanisms.

Xyloglucan (human skin cells in vitro): Nie & Deters 2013 reported that tamarind Xyloglucan promoted proliferation, cell-cycle progression, and migration, involving pro-proliferative signaling.

Materials research by Kochumalayil et al. 2010 showed that water-cast XG films combined stiffness, strength, and ductile toughness, supporting a flexible biomimetic protective interface.

A soothing core and a biomimetic interface supporting recovery.

Sources: Araújo, Acta Cir Bras. 2010;25(5):460–466, 10.1590/S0102-86502010000500014; Nie & Deters, 10.1155/2013/359756; Kochumalayil, 10.1039/C0JM00367K.

Source link from the presentation: https://doi.org/10.1590/S0102-86502010000500014

13 · Zinc PCA: Sebum and Scalp Balance

Public supplier information describes reduction of excess visible sebum, freshness of skin and hair, mild antimicrobial activity against yeasts and molds, and use in dandruff-care shampoo formulations.

Patent support: technical data on 5α-reductase and MIC support the sebum-management rationale (CN107126379B).

Clinical context from a combination cream: 11 patients with mild-to-moderate facial seborrheic dermatitis used a multi-ingredient Zinc PCA-containing cream for 8 weeks. All improved: 81.8% received an excellent rating and 18.1% a good rating, with 0 recorded adverse reactions. Percentages are retained exactly as supplied.

Sources: public international supplier Zinc PCA information; Piquero-Casals J et al. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(6), DOI: 10.36849/JDD.2020.5121; CN107126379B.

Source link from the presentation: https://ajiaminoscience.eu/personalcare/produit/ajidew-zn-100/

Source link from the presentation: https://patents.google.com/patent/CN107126379B/en

14 · Formulation Guide: Multiple Skin & Scalp Formats

Five-point addition gradient: 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3%, and 5%. Evaluate clarity, viscosity, pH, electrolyte stability, centrifugation/thermal cycling, and performance. The presentation recommends 1–3%, with up to 5% for enhanced formulations.

Processing: preferably add to the aqueous phase or at a later stage. Evaluate the effects of pH, strong chelators, anionic surfactants, and electrolytes on Zn²⁺ and the supramolecular network.

Sources: NL2037619A (α-GOS barrier proteins and formulation-range context); JP6995791B2 (XG cleansing/conditioning formats); WO2014027120A2 (XG hair deposition).

Source link from the presentation: https://patents.google.com/patent/NL2037619A/en

Format	Application
Soothing sebum-balancing serum	Daily care for sensitive oily skin
Gel cream / lotion	Sebum balance, soothing, and moisturization
Mask	Intensive soothing care
Scalp serum	Scalp barrier and microbiome
Shampoo	Fresh-feeling sebum-balancing cleansing system
Scalp spray	Leave-on scalp care

15 · Regulatory & Safety Readiness: Established Ingredient Foundations

China: the PuriPharm ingredient database records XYLOGLUCAN in the 2025 and 2021 Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients, with a highest historical leave-on use level of 1.989%.

USA: the presentation cites 21 CFR §347.10 for Allantoin as an OTC skin protectant at 0.5–2%. Its history of topical use and CIR safety assessment provide an established foundation.

International: public α-GOS supplier information addresses use in the EU, USA, China, and Japan and COSMOS-related natural-origin information.

The presentation positions all four components as established cosmetic ingredients for global development. These regulatory/database statements reproduce the supplied presentation and do not imply approval or certification of this complex or finished products. They have not been independently updated for this conversion.

Sources: PuriPharm Xyloglucan database; 21 CFR §347.10; Becker et al. 2010, CIR Allantoin safety assessment; public international α-GOS supplier information.

Source link from the presentation: https://www.puriactives.com/db/public/index.php/materials/detail/22408

Source link from the presentation: https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-347/subpart-B/section-347.10

Source link from the presentation: https://www.solabia.com/cosmetics/product/bioecolia/

16 · Market Positioning: From Soothing to Integrated Balance

A supramolecular care system built around Allantoin.

Traditional Allantoin solutions: a single soothing position, established recovery care with a limited mechanism narrative, and substantial similarity between offerings.

Supra-Allantoin positioning: soothing/recovery and sebum balance, flexible film formation and microbiome care, and dual skin/scalp applications.

Four-in-One architecture: an integrated four-component supramolecular system.

Mechanism chain: a three-layer narrative from molecule to microbiome.

Dual applications: one active story for skin and scalp care.

Expandable evidence framework: literature, patents, human, cellular, and materials evidence.

17 · Application Markets: Formulations with Multiple Care Functions

Functional sensitive-skin brands: sensitive oily skin serums, soothing masks, and barrier care concepts.

Oily/acne-prone skin brands: sebum-balancing recovery lotions and complementary acne care products.

Professional scalp care brands: oily scalp serums, sebum-balancing shampoos, complementary dandruff-care products, and leave-on scalp sprays.

International ODM/OEM innovation centers: platform development of multiple formats across skin and scalp formulation libraries.

Target contexts: sensitive/oily skin, barrier stress, and scalp imbalance. One active story spans facial, scalp, and hair-care innovation.

Image: illustrative photography of a translucent serum texture.

18 · Communication System

Primary: Calm. Balance. Protect.

Alternatives: Beyond Soothing. From Molecule to Microbiome. One Supra-System. Skin & Scalp in Balance. Four Components. One Intelligent Interface.

19 · Scientific Evidence Sources: Six Core Evidence Streams

Six evidence dimensions address the human microbiome, skin cells, recovery mechanisms, clinical contexts, supramolecular chemistry, and barrier proteins. Original slide references in the table are retained for evidence navigation.

Evidence dimension	Professional source	Supporting content
① Human microbiome	Duan et al. 2021, J Soc Cosmet Chem Jpn. DOI: 10.5107/sccj.55.176	α-GOS: human flora changes over 2 weeks (slide 11)
② Skin cells	Nie & Deters 2013. DOI: 10.1155/2013/359756	Xyloglucan: human skin cell proliferation and migration (slide 12)
③ Recovery mechanisms	Araújo et al. 2010, Acta Cir Bras. DOI: 10.1590/S0102-86502010000500014	Allantoin: inflammatory modulation / fibroblasts / ECM (slide 12)
④ Clinical use contexts	Piquero-Casals et al. 2020, J Drugs Dermatol. DOI: 10.36849/JDD.2020.5121	Zinc PCA-containing facial care: improvement over 8 weeks (slide 13)
⑤ Supramolecular chemistry	WO1995026194A1 (allantoin–metal complexes)	Precedent for allantoin–zinc coordination structures (slide 5)
⑥ Barrier proteins	NL2037619A (filaggrin / involucrin ex vivo)	α-GOS: barrier-associated protein support (slide 7)

20 · Scientific References & Patents

The following retains the full journal, human study, patent, supplier, and platform references from the presentation. Source hyperlinks are retained from the presentation. No additional URLs have been invented.

Source link from the presentation: https://doi.org/10.1590/S0102-86502010000500014

Source link from the presentation: https://doi.org/10.1155/2013/359756

Source link from the presentation: https://doi.org/10.1039/C0JM00367K

Source link from the presentation: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2018.10.078

Source link from the presentation: https://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/sccj/55/2/55_176/_article/-char/en

Source link from the presentation: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32574015/

Source link from the presentation: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/39778065/

Source link from the presentation: https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredient/allantoin

Source link from the presentation: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO1995026194A1/en

Source link from the presentation: https://patents.google.com/patent/NL2037619A/en

JOURNALS & HUMAN STUDIES

Araújo LU, Grabe-Guimarães A, Mosqueira VCF, et al. Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoin. Acta Cir Bras. 2010;25(5):460–466. DOI: 10.1590/S0102-86502010000500014

Nie W, Deters AM. Tamarind seed xyloglucans promote proliferation and migration of human skin cells. Dermatol Res Pract. 2013:359756. DOI: 10.1155/2013/359756

Kochumalayil J, Sehaqui H, Zhou Q, Berglund LA. Tamarind seed xyloglucan — a thermostable high-performance biopolymer. J Mater Chem. 2010;20:4321–4327. DOI: 10.1039/C0JM00367K

Picone P, et al. Biocompatibility, hemocompatibility and antimicrobial properties of xyloglucan-based hydrogel film. Int J Biol Macromol. 2019;121:784–795. DOI: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2018.10.078

Duan Z, Yokota M, Eda Y. The effect of alpha-glucan oligosaccharide on facial skin flora. J Soc Cosmet Chem Jpn. 2021;55(2):176–181. DOI: 10.5107/sccj.55.176

Piquero-Casals J, et al. Non-steroidal topical therapy for facial seborrheic dermatitis. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(6). DOI: 10.36849/JDD.2020.5121 (combination-formulation context evidence)

A cohort clinical study on topical salicylic acid / piroctone olamine / Zinc PCA regimens in scalp seborrheic dermatitis. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025. PMID 39778065 (combination-formulation context evidence)

Becker LC, et al. Final report of the safety assessment of allantoin and its related complexes. Int J Toxicol. 2010. DOI: 10.1177/1091581810362805

PATENTS

WO1995026194A1　Allantoin-metal complexes for skin and hair (1995)

NL2037619A　Active ingredients capable of increasing skin barrier-associated protein differentiation

CN107126379B　Oil-control acne-removing composition and application thereof

WO2014027120A2　Cosmetic and household care compositions (2014)

JP6995791B2　Xyloglucan-containing gel composition

SUPPLIER & PLATFORM DATA

Zinc PCA technical product information — public international supplier technical information

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide technical information — public international supplier technical information

PuriActives® public supramolecular platform information — puriactives.com (platform narrative)

XYLOGLUCAN Xyloglucan ingredient information — PuriPharm ingredient database；21 CFR §347.10

01 · PuriActives® RhamnoCalm™: Rhamnose-Rich Soothing Polysaccharide

A rhamnose-rich biofunctional polysaccharide linking glycobiology with skin and scalp soothing. Recognizing cellular signals for targeted soothing.

Key active: Biosaccharide Gum-2. A functional cosmetic active based on glycobiological cell recognition.

PuriPharm Co. Ltd. (浦瑞生物医药技术有限公司).

02 · Product at a Glance: Biotechnology in the Language of Skin

Trade name: PuriActives® RhamnoCalm™. Key active: Biosaccharide Gum-2.

Category: a biotechnology-derived functional polysaccharide active for soothing cosmetic formulations.

Positioning: sensitive skin soothing, rapid redness reduction, anti-irritant care, neuro-comfort, inflammatory signal modulation, support for tolerance of potent actives, healthy aging, and scalp soothing and stress management.

Central idea: rhamnose-rich polysaccharides interact with biological recognition mechanisms in keratinocytes to soothe stressed skin and scalp and support lasting resilience. Rhamnose-powered biological soothing.

Image: illustrative textures for serums, gels, and creams.

03 · Why Skin Becomes Sensitive: The Biological Pathway of Discomfort

Before redness becomes visible, daily stressors can already trigger alarm signals in epidermal cells.

Stressors include UV and pollution, surfactant cleansing, retinol and exfoliating acids, chemical hair coloring or perming, heat, friction and shaving, dryness and barrier stress, and lifestyle or urban stress.

Pathway: environmental and chemical stress on facial or scalp epidermis → keratinocyte activation → IL-1α release and initiation of inflammation → neutrophil recruitment and adhesion → the PLA2, arachidonic acid, and PGE2 cascade → erythema, warmth, and visible discomfort.

04 · Key Active: A Rhamnose-Rich Branched Biosaccharide

Biosaccharide Gum-2 is a biotechnology-derived extracellular polysaccharide produced through modern fermentation, with a branched structure rich in rhamnose residues.

Its biofunctional concept centers on skin–glycan interactions, with sugar units recognized at the keratinocyte surface.

L-rhamnose (Rha): a recognition unit interacting with lectin-like carbohydrate recognition sites.

D-galactose (Gal): a structural unit of the branched glycan backbone.

Glucuronic acid (GlcA): an acidic sugar unit contributing to the glycan’s biological properties.

These related sugar units together define the interaction profile. The branched structure is schematic, with darker units indicating rhamnose-rich recognition motifs.

05 · Glycobiological Cell Recognition

Human keratinocytes have membrane-associated lectins and carbohydrate recognition systems that can interact with rhamnose-containing glycans.

Rhamnose-rich Biosaccharide Gum-2 → interaction with cell-surface lectin/carbohydrate recognition sites → modulation of intercellular communication → reduced spread of irritation responses → less redness and discomfort, with restored comfort and resilience.

This is a recognition-based glycobiological concept, not a pharmacological receptor claim.

Image: fluorescence microscopy of human skin cells.

06 · Rhamnose–Keratinocyte Communication

Cell affinity encoded in glycans: the schematic shows rhamnose-containing units in dark blue interacting with lectin-like carbohydrate recognition sites in gold.

Image: a 3D model of epidermal keratinocyte layers.

Scientific basis: Condaminet et al., Experimental Cell Research, 1997, supports the basis for recognition of α-L-rhamnosyl structures by surface lectins on keratinocytes. DOI: 10.1006/excr.1997.3518. [1]

07 · Inflammatory Signal Network: Five Intervention Points

External stress (UV, surfactants, coloring or perming) → keratinocyte activation → IL-1α/TNF-α release → inflammatory cell recruitment → neutrophil adhesion → PLA2 activation → membrane phospholipid and arachidonic acid pathways → COX → PGE2 → erythema and warmth.

Five intervention points: modulate the initiating IL-1α signal, reduce neutrophil adhesion, inhibit PLA2 activity, modulate PGE2 signaling, and promote β-endorphin release for neuro-comfort.

Signals amplify from external stress to visible redness, and RhamnoCalm™ is positioned for soothing at several nodes.

08 · Multi-Target Soothing: Five Mechanisms

Main pathway: cellular stress → keratinocyte activation → IL-1α → neutrophil adhesion → the PLA2/arachidonic acid cascade → PGE2 → erythema, warmth, and discomfort.

1. Modulate initiation by reducing keratinocyte IL-1α signaling.

2. Reduce neutrophil adhesion and further signal propagation.

3. Inhibit PLA2 to modulate the arachidonic acid cascade upstream.

4. Modulate PGE2 to help reduce redness, warmth, and discomfort.

5. A parallel neuro-comfort pathway promotes keratinocyte β-endorphin release to support comfort beyond inflammatory signaling.

The concept covers a cascade at multiple levels rather than a single inflammatory endpoint.

09 · In Vitro Reference Data: IL-1α

Model: reconstructed human epidermis stimulated with 0.025% tretinoin cream.

The rhamnose-rich polysaccharide reference system reduced induced IL-1α by approximately 11% at 0.66% and 28% at 2%.

This relates to modulation of sensitivity signals at the onset of inflammation.

Source: in vitro reference research on rhamnose-rich Biosaccharide Gum-2. In vitro data do not represent clinical efficacy of finished products.

10 · In Vitro Reference Data: Neutrophil Adhesion

Keratinocytes were stimulated with LPS, then fluorescence-labeled human neutrophils were added to measure adhesion.

The reference system reduced adhesion by approximately 22% at 1% and 40% at 2%. Reduced adhesion can help limit continued inflammatory signal propagation.

Image: a reference light microscopy image of keratinocytes.

Source: in vitro reference research on rhamnose-rich Biosaccharide Gum-2.

11 · In Vitro Reference Data: Upstream PLA2 Modulation

Phospholipase A2 (PLA2) is a key upstream enzyme in the arachidonic acid inflammatory cascade: cell membrane phospholipids → PLA2 → arachidonic acid → COX → PGE2 → visible erythema, warmth, and discomfort.

At approximately 0.5%, the reference system reduced PLA2 activity by about 38%–40%, with relatively stable inhibition over the 0.5%–2% test range.

RhamnoCalm™ is positioned for upstream intervention in the visible redness cascade.

Source: reference in vitro enzyme research on rhamnose-rich Biosaccharide Gum-2.

12 · In Vitro Reference Data: PGE2

Prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) is an important mediator of skin erythema, warmth, irritation, and inflammatory discomfort.

Model A, human neutrophils: a 1% reference system reduced PGE2 synthesis by approximately 32%.

Model B, keratinocytes: another reference system at a higher test concentration reported a maximum decrease of approximately 69% in PGE2 release.

These are independent models and must not be combined into a single dose–response curve. Modulation occurs at several levels from enzymes to mediators.

Source: in vitro reference research on rhamnose-rich Biosaccharide Gum-2.

13 · Neuro-Comfort: β-Endorphin Release

Keratinocytes participate in the skin’s neuroimmune and endocrine network. Rhamnose-rich polysaccharide signaling promotes β-endorphin release, which is associated with comfort and modulation of pain signaling.

Reference data after 36 hours of in vitro keratinocyte culture: release increased approximately 46% with the 1% system and 55% with the 5% system. The presentation reports statistical significance without a specific p-value.

Conceptual pathway: keratinocytes → β-endorphin release → greater comfort and fewer discomfort signals.

Patent WO2004078789A1 describes rhamnose-containing branched polysaccharides with high keratinocyte affinity that can promote β-endorphin release, together with cosmetic compositions and uses. [4]

14 · Human Reference Data: Redness Reduction at 2 Hours

UV-induced erythema reference study: 20 volunteers, UV-induced redness on the back, and a cream containing 5% of the test system compared with placebo.

Instrumental measurement of the a* erythema parameter at 2 hours showed an average decrease of approximately 44% in visible redness among the relevant participants.

Source: a human reference study of rhamnose-rich Biosaccharide Gum-2, not direct clinical data for a finished product.

15 · Sensitive and Active Skin Care: Soothing and Tolerance Support

The IL-1α study in tretinoin-stimulated reconstructed epidermis provides a formulation rationale for pairing rhamnose-rich soothing polysaccharides with potent actives. The source positions the product to preserve active performance while improving irritation, tightness, redness, and overall comfort.

Concepts include retinol/retinal, AHA/BHA/PHA exfoliation, high-concentration vitamin C, brightening actives, acne-prone skin care, and soothing cosmetics after irritating care procedures.

Other opportunities include post-sun, post-shave and depilation aftercare, daily redness care, compromised barriers, and sensitive skin care. Comfort is part of formulation strategy.

Image: soothing care after sun exposure and UV stress.

16 · Healthy Aging: Soothing and Skin Resilience

Inflammation, cellular senescence, ECM damage, and skin aging are interconnected.

Rhamnose research: in vitro and in vivo evidence relates to epidermal and dermal benefits, collagen IV, and procollagen I. Pageon et al., 2019, doi:10.1111/ics.12523. [2]

Rhamnose-rich oligosaccharide/polysaccharide research: these materials can counter increases in the senescence marker SA-β-gal induced by advanced glycation end products (AGEs) in human skin fibroblasts. Ravelojaona et al., 2009, doi:10.1016/j.archger.2007.12.004. [3]

Patent WO2006037813A1 concerns saccharide compounds with repeated rhamnose-rich motifs and cosmetic anti-aging uses. [5]

Attribution boundary: free rhamnose research must be distinguished from Biosaccharide Gum-2 product data. Free sugar results are not measurements of RhamnoCalm™.

17 · From Face to Scalp: Scalp Is Skin

The scalp and facial skin share keratinocytes, epidermal barriers, inflammatory responses, and sensory systems.

Stressors include frequent washing, strong surfactants, coloring, bleaching, perming, oxidants, hot blow-drying, UV, pollution, dryness, friction, and styling residue.

Common concerns include tightness, redness, dryness, irritation, sensitivity, and discomfort.

Pathway: external stress → scalp keratinocyte stress → IL-1α/PLA2/PGE2 → discomfort and erythema. The positioning is based on glycobiological cell recognition. Patent WO2004078789A1 supports cosmetic applications on covering tissues including skin and scalp. [4]

18 · Sensitive Scalp Care Solutions

Sensitive scalp shampoo: reduce discomfort during cleansing.

Scalp soothing serum/spray: for dry, tight, or reactive scalp.

Post-color/post-bleach care: for scalp after oxidative coloring or bleaching.

Post-perm care: support comfort after chemical hair treatment.

Oil-control plus comfort: for pollution, heat, and lifestyle stress.

After-sun scalp care: for scalp after UV exposure.

Men’s scalp care: for areas prone to friction-related discomfort.

Positioning includes scalp soothing, redness support, comfort after coloring or perming, stress-responsive care, and barrier-conscious hair care, without hair-growth or hair-loss prevention claims.

19 · Application Map: Skin and Hair Care

Sensitive skin: soothing serums, lotions, creams, and sprays.

Potent anti-aging care: retinol, retinal, and acid products.

Post-sun care: gels, lotions, and recovery sprays.

Redness-prone skin: redness care serums, soothing masks, and barrier care.

Healthy aging: anti-aging serums and creams.

Baby/child and gentle care: subject to product positioning and regulatory requirements.

Acne-prone skin: oil-control serums and soothing support in acne-care formulas.

After-shave/depilation care: soothing products.

From daily serums to post-color or post-perm scalp care, one glycan technology supports multiple comfort concepts.

20 · Formulation Guide: Technical Parameters

The full parameters appear below. They are based on the supplied technical information for a system equivalent in active strength to a 2.5% Biosaccharide Gum-2 reference solution.

If the commercial product has a different active content, recalculate the recommended addition level accordingly. This fermentation-derived functional polysaccharide is positioned in the source for performance at low addition levels.

Parameter	Recommendation
Recommended addition level	3%–5% (for a system equivalent in active strength to a 2.5% Biosaccharide Gum-2 reference solution)
Solubility	Water · Propylene glycol · Glycerin
Recommended formulation pH	Approximately 4–8
Thermal stability	Up to approximately 80 °C
Processing	Preferably add during cooling below 45 °C. Reference information also permits addition to the aqueous phase at higher temperatures.

21 · Formulation Concepts: Complementary Combinations

RhamnoCalm™ + panthenol: soothing and hydration.

+ allantoin: multi-pathway soothing.

+ ectoin: protection against environmental stress.

+ niacinamide: soothing and barrier care.

+ Zinc PCA: oil control and comfort for acne-prone skin or scalp.

+ ceramides: barrier resilience.

+ retinoids: potent anti-aging care with a tolerable experience, with further opportunities in PAD/salicylic acid systems.

These are complementary formulation concepts. Unvalidated combinations do not support synergy claims.

22 · Why RhamnoCalm™: Cell Recognition and Multi-Target Soothing

Quantitative reference results: approximately 44% less visible redness at 2 hours (UV human model), 40% lower neutrophil adhesion (in vitro, 2% system), 28% lower induced IL-1α (reconstructed epidermis, 2%), approximately 40% lower PLA2 activity (in vitro, 0.5%), and 46% more β-endorphin release (keratinocytes, 1%).

Key positioning: rhamnose–keratinocyte recognition, multi-target soothing involving IL-1α, adhesion, PLA2, and PGE2, β-endorphin-related neuro-comfort, rapid visible redness reduction, and modulation at several cascade nodes.

Applications include sensitive or stressed skin, retinoid/acid/active formulations, skin and scalp care, healthy aging, and biotechnology-derived rhamnose-rich glycans.

All figures are reference data for Biosaccharide Gum-2 systems. The corresponding chapters specify the models and conditions.

23 · Scientific References and Data Notes

1. Condaminet B. et al. Ultraviolet rays induced expression of lectins on the surface of a squamous carcinoma keratinocyte cell line. Experimental Cell Research. 1997;232(2):216–224. DOI: 10.1006/excr.1997.3518.

2. Pageon H. et al. Potentially beneficial effects of rhamnose on skin ageing: an in vitro and in vivo study. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2019;41(3):213–220. DOI: 10.1111/ics.12523.

3. Ravelojaona V., Robert A.M., Robert L. Expression of senescence-associated beta-galactosidase by human skin fibroblasts, effect of advanced glycation end-products and fucose or rhamnose-rich polysaccharides. Archives of Gerontology and Geriatrics. 2009;48(2):151–154. DOI: 10.1016/j.archger.2007.12.004.

4. WO2004078789A1 — Novel agent for stimulating the release of beta-endorphins, cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions containing same and uses thereof.

5. WO2006037813A1 — Cosmetic composition comprising a saccharide compound having a repeated rhamnose-rich motif and its cosmetic use for skin anti-aging activity.

Quantitative efficacy figures are reference data for rhamnose-rich Biosaccharide Gum-2 systems in the supplied technical information. Conditions are specified in each section. In vitro data do not represent clinical efficacy of finished products.

PuriActives® and RhamnoCalm™ are trademarks of PuriPharm Co. Ltd. This material introduces cosmetic ingredients and makes no medicinal claims.

www.puriactives.com

01 · NanoActive™ RP: Retinyl Propionate Nanoliposomes

A precision-delivered vitamin A active for advanced skin and scalp renewal. A smarter route to retinoid performance.

Powered by PURISOME® FlexVes™ Liposome Technology.

PuriPharm Co. Ltd. (浦瑞生物医药技术有限公司).

02 · Why Retinyl Propionate?

Retinyl esters differ in their skin metabolic profiles. Retinyl propionate (RP) shows a distinctive profile in human skin models and should not be viewed simply as a lower-activity substitute for retinol.

The table compares RP, retinol, and retinyl palmitate by type, metabolism, and biological activity.

Source: Bjerke et al., 2021, doi:10.1111/exd.14219. [1]

Dimension	Retinyl Propionate	Retinol	Retinyl Palmitate
Type	Short-chain retinyl ester	Vitamin A alcohol	Long-chain storage ester
Entry into the vitamin A pathway	Yes	Yes	Requires further mobilization
Human skin penetration evidence	Relatively strong [1]	Relatively strong	Lower in the comparative model
Metabolic profile	Preferential conversion to retinol	Further oxidation or re-esterification	More oriented toward storage
RAR-related biological activity	Direct experimental support [1]	Classic retinoid activity	Weaker in the comparative study
HA-related activity	Direct experimental support [1]	Present	Weaker in the comparative model

03 · Meet the Molecule: A Vitamin A Ester for Metabolic Activation

INCI name: RETINYL PROPIONATE. CAS: 7069-42-3, subject to official product documentation.

Chemical structure: an ester derivative formed from retinol and propionic acid. It is a retinyl ester, also described as a vitamin A ester.

Physicochemical profile: a lipophilic vitamin A derivative with a conjugated polyene structure, sensitivity to light, oxidation, and environmental conditions, and suitability for lipid environments, encapsulation, and nanoliposomal delivery design.

Source of the 2D chemical structure: PubChem. Listed in the PuriPharm raw material database as RETINYL PROPIONATE.

04 · From Ester to Signal

Schematic skin pathway: retinyl propionate → esterase hydrolysis → retinol → retinol dehydrogenase → retinaldehyde → retinaldehyde dehydrogenase → retinoic acid → RAR/RXR nuclear receptors → retinoic acid response elements (RAREs) and retinoid-responsive gene expression.

Downstream areas include epidermal renewal, differentiation, extracellular matrix (ECM) remodeling, hyaluronic acid (HA) biology, and skin quality.

RP undergoes stepwise activation through endogenous skin enzymes rather than binding directly to receptors. NanoActive™ RP builds on this metabolic mechanism.

Sources: Bjerke et al., 2021, and classic retinoid metabolism literature. [1]

Schematic retinoid metabolism in skin

05 · Direct RP Evidence: A Unique Profile in Human Skin Models

A 2021 study in Experimental Dermatology systematically compared RP, retinol, and retinyl palmitate in ex vivo human skin and keratinocyte models, assessing penetration, metabolism, and receptor-related biological activity.

Skin penetration: RP and retinol both showed appreciable penetration, while retinyl palmitate showed less.

Metabolism: after reaching viable epidermal and dermal regions, RP was primarily converted to retinol, entering the core vitamin A pathway.

RARα-related activity: RP showed relatively strong receptor-related activity in the experimental model, linking it to retinoid signaling.

HA-related activity: keratinocyte models showed significant activity related to HA synthesis. This retinyl ester exhibits behavior closely connected with the core retinoid pathway.

Source: Bjerke et al., 2021. [1]

06 · The Core Switch of Renewal: From Activation to Gene Expression

Classic signaling pathway: retinoic acid → RAR/RXR heterodimeric nuclear receptors → RAREs → gene transcription. RAR/RXR is a key step through which retinoid signals influence nuclear gene expression.

Downstream skin effects involve epidermal renewal, keratinocyte differentiation, skin structure, ECM support, collagen homeostasis, pigmentation uniformity, HA biology, smoothness, firmness, and elasticity.

Evidence boundary: this section describes classic retinoid-class mechanisms to explain the pathway. Clinical results for retinoic acid are not directly attributed to NanoActive™ RP.

Sources: classic retinoid signaling literature and Fisher et al., Nature, 1996. [8]

Nuclear receptor signaling and gene transcription

07 · The Retinoid Spectrum: Efficacy, Daily Use, and Formulation Engineering

The schematic places retinyl esters, retinol, retinal, and retinoic acid on a spectrum, with formulation flexibility and daily-use potential at one end and closer proximity to direct receptor activity at the other. RP is identified within this framework.

Activation by design: endogenous skin enzymes activate the molecule step by step.

Delivery by design: PURISOME® FlexVes™ flexible liposomes provide engineered protection, contact, and release.

Metabolic activation × precision delivery.

Retinoid spectrum and RP positioning schematic

08 · Endogenous Hydration: Connecting Renewal with HA Biology

RP → retinoid signaling → increased HA-related synthesis → a more favorable hydration state. Relevant skin qualities include plumpness, smoothness, softness, the appearance of fine lines, and resilience.

The concept links renewal with the skin’s own hydration network and extends retinoid care to skin quality and hydration management.

Dual hydration formulation concept: combine NanoActive™ RP with HA, polyglutamic acid (PGA), β-glucan, or ceramides to connect externally supplied hydration with endogenous HA biology.

Evidence boundary: HA synthesis-related activity comes from direct RP experiments. These ingredient combinations are formulation concepts, and synergy requires corresponding combination data.

Source: Bjerke et al., 2021. [1]

Retinoid signaling and HA-related biology

09 · Collagen and ECM: Epidermal Renewal and Dermal Structure

Schematic pathway: UV exposure / aging → increased AP-1 transcription factor activation → increased matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) → increased collagen breakdown → wrinkles and loss of firmness.

Retinoid signaling can support collagen formation and regulate matrix degradation at several levels, helping maintain dermal structure. Relevant care areas include fine lines, wrinkles, firmness, elasticity, smoothness, and the appearance of photoaging.

Image: thick human skin section stained with H&E, showing the epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis. Source: Blue Histology, University of Western Australia.

Evidence boundary: this is retinoid-class mechanistic evidence, not a human trial of RP itself.

Sources: Fisher et al., 1996, and Griffiths et al., 1993. [8,9]

Photodamage, collagen breakdown, and firmness pathway

10 · Three Decades of RP Research

1998: a clinicopathological study of RP cream in photoaged skin. Green et al., Clin Exp Dermatol, 23(4):162–167. [2]

2010: a randomized controlled comparison of a multi-active RP-containing skin care regimen and a 0.02% tretinoin regimen. Fu et al., Br J Dermatol, 162(3):647–654. [4]

2017: a 16-week randomized double-blind human study of RP plus climbazole. Hawkins et al., Int J Cosmet Sci, 39(6):589–599. [3]

2021: human skin models elucidated RP penetration, metabolism, RARα activity, and HA-related bioactivity. Bjerke et al., Exp Dermatol, 30(2):226–236. [1]

2023 onward: new delivery systems and retinoid combination studies continue to emerge. [6,7]

The molecule determines potential, while delivery influences how that potential is realized.

RP research timeline

11 · Human Study: Wrinkles, Pigmentation, and Tolerability over 16 Weeks

A 2017 study assessed an RP plus climbazole formulation. It was not a clinical trial of NanoActive™ RP.

Design: 45 healthy women aged 40–70 years with moderate facial photodamage, 16 weeks, randomized and double-blind split-face comparison, 0.1% retinol as the comparator, and RP plus climbazole as the test system.

More than 50% of participants showed improvement in deep wrinkles in the crow’s feet area after 5 weeks. Observed improvements included photoaging appearance, deep wrinkles, nasolabial texture, and hyperpigmentation, with relatively low irritation.

Data boundary: these results apply to the complete combination system, not RP alone, and are not clinical data for NanoActive™ RP.

Source: Hawkins et al., 2017, doi:10.1111/ics.12412. [3]

12 · The Delivery Problem: Six Challenges for Free Retinoids

Light: the conjugated polyene structure is light-sensitive, and activity can decline under exposure.

Oxygen: oxidative conditions complicate formulation and shelf-life management.

Water compatibility: high lipophilicity limits use in water-based systems.

Distribution: uniform dispersion in complex formulations can be difficult.

Local exposure: high local exposure may increase irritation and limit daily use.

Active availability: protection during shelf life and use is needed to preserve functional value.

Retinoid product design requires both molecular selection and delivery engineering.

13 · PURISOME® FlexVes™: A Microenvironment for Sensitive Retinoids

Schematic structure: an aqueous core, a phospholipid bilayer, lipophilic RP embedded in hydrophobic regions, and a flexible vesicle membrane.

Protect: the phospholipid microenvironment helps shield sensitive retinoids from light, oxygen, and complex formulation conditions.

Deliver: phospholipid structures with affinity for stratum corneum lipids support contact between the active and the skin interface.

Control: vesicle structures support gradual release and smoother local exposure.

Formulate: poorly dispersible lipophilic RP becomes a delivery-engineered active suitable for modern formulations.

The NanoActive™ range is supported by the PURISOME® platform. The official technology name is PURISOME® FlexVes™ Liposome Technology.

Image: an example of liposome morphology under TEM/cryo-TEM, sourced from Springer Nature Experiments.

Flexible liposome structure schematic

14 · From Molecule to System: Free versus Delivery-Engineered Active

RP + PURISOME® FlexVes™ = NanoActive™ RP.

Free RP: lipophilic, exposed to the environment, conventionally dispersed, passively delivered, and subject to local concentration fluctuations.

NanoActive™ RP: vesicle-associated, phospholipid-protected, designed for improved dispersion, skin-affinitive delivery, and controlled release.

The microenvironment is engineered around molecular stability, contact, release, and formulation use.

15 · Skin Efficacy Platform: Multiple Dimensions of Renewal

Renew the epidermis, support skin structure, and refine skin quality.

Eight care areas: the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, firmness, the appearance of elasticity, texture, dullness and uneven tone, HA-related hydration biology, and the appearance of photoaging.

16 · Barrier-Conscious Retinoids: Efficacy, Control, and Comfort

Conventional high-intensity approach: high concentrations → greater irritation → intermittent use → difficulty maintaining a routine.

Modern design approach: an effective molecule + protective delivery + gradual release + a barrier-conscious formula to support consistent long-term care.

NanoActive™ RP concepts include introductory and long-term retinoid care, anti-aging concepts for sensitive skin, daily retinoid routines, skin longevity, preventive aging, and barrier-conscious anti-aging.

Communication focuses on comfort, controlled-release design, barrier-conscious formulation, and long-term care.

17 · Formulation Inspiration Matrix: Multiple Paths to Anti-Aging

NanoActive™ RP + niacinamide: barrier, tone, and anti-aging concepts.

+ peptides: collagen and firmness concepts.

+ HA: retinoid renewal with hydration and plumpness.

+ ceramides: renewal and barrier management.

+ ectoin / β-glucan: retinoid performance with soothing protection.

+ antioxidants: photoaging and urban anti-aging care.

These are formulation inspirations. Research has explored RP combined with niacinamide and other actives, but NanoActive™ RP has not thereby been clinically validated for these synergies.

Sources: Lam et al., 2021, and Wang et al., 2023. [5,6]

18 · From Skin to Scalp: Continuously Renewing Skin

The scalp is retinoid-responsive skin, providing a research rationale for extending facial renewal concepts to scalp care.

Shared features include keratinocytes, epidermal differentiation, barrier structures, sebaceous glands, inflammatory and oxidative stress, and retinoid-responsive signaling.

A distinctive feature is the high density of hair follicles, which creates a specialized epithelial microenvironment.

The source pathway is retinoic acid signaling → epidermal renewal and differentiation → follicular epithelial microenvironment → scalp condition → healthy, resilient, vital-looking hair.

Image: an illustrative macro view of the human scalp and hair roots.

Conceptual pathway for retinoid scalp care

19 · Retinoids and Follicle Science: Retinoic Acid Signaling

Hair follicles are retinoid-responsive miniature organs.

Development: cutaneous retinoic acid levels participate in follicle development and downgrowth. Okano et al., 2012. [10]

Stem cells: research suggests that RA can participate in hair follicle stem cell activation through Wnt/β-catenin-related mechanisms. Wen et al., J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. [11]

Metabolism: retinoid research also indicates effects on local follicular enzyme activity. Sharma et al., 2019. [12]

Image: a light micrograph of human scalp and hair follicles. Source: Science Photo Library.

Evidence boundary: these are follicular mechanisms involving retinoids or retinoic acid, not evidence supporting a hair-loss treatment claim for NanoActive™ RP.

Commercial care concepts include scalp renewal, the hair-root environment, follicular microenvironment care, scalp rejuvenation, resilient hair, and hair vitality.

20 · Scalp and Hair Platform: From Scalp Condition to Hair Vitality

Renew the scalp to support hair vitality. Positioning includes resilience, fullness, healthy shine, root vitality, a youthful scalp, and anti-aging hair care.

Scalp renewal: support normal epidermal renewal and balanced keratinization.

Scalp condition: maintain a smooth, healthy, balanced scalp surface.

Follicular environment: use retinoid-responsive follicle biology as a basis for premium hair-root care concepts.

Hair vitality: a healthy scalp is an important foundation for healthy hair.

Scalpification positioning extends facial retinoid science to scalp epidermal and follicular microenvironment care.

21 · Applications: Modern Skin and Scalp Formulations

Skin care: anti-aging serums, overnight renewal serums, retinoid creams, anti-aging eye care, firming lotions, fine-line serums, tone care serums, barrier-conscious retinoid products, and skin longevity products.

Scalp and hair care: scalp renewal serums, overnight scalp serums, premium scalp tonics, hair-root serums, anti-aging hair care, leave-in scalp lotions, scalp serum sprays, and premium volumizing care.

NanoActive™ RP transforms a lipophilic vitamin A ester into a delivery-engineered ingredient for a wider range of modern product formats.

Image: an illustrative formulation laboratory.

22 · Market Context: Skin Longevity and Scalpification

Skin longevity: maintaining skin quality over time.

Preventive aging: earlier care with consistent long-term retinoid routines.

Precision delivery: delivery technology as part of active ingredient differentiation.

Barrier-conscious retinoids: design efficacy and comfort together.

Scalpification: extend facial skin care technologies to scalp and hair care.

Evidence-driven beauty: develop ingredients supported by mechanisms, publications, and data.

NanoActive™ RP = retinoid science × delivery engineering × skin and scalp longevity.

23 · Why NanoActive™ RP? Molecular Potential and Delivery Performance

Metabolically activated vitamin A: RP has a distinctive skin metabolic profile.

Direct RP scientific evidence: human skin models and human studies provide a research foundation, with attribution distinguished between RP alone and combination systems.

PURISOME® precision delivery: flexible phospholipid vesicles provide protection, delivery, and release design.

Multi-dimensional skin renewal: wrinkles, texture, firmness, tone, hydration, and photoaging care.

New scalp-care opportunities: extend retinoid science to scalp rejuvenation and follicular microenvironment care.

The molecule determines potential, while delivery influences performance.

24 · A Smarter Route to Retinoid Performance

NanoActive™ RP, retinyl propionate nanoliposomes. A smarter route to retinoid performance and more precise renewal.

Metabolic activation × precision liposomal delivery × skin and scalp renewal.

Powered by PURISOME® FlexVes™ Liposome Technology.

PuriPharm Co. Ltd. (浦瑞生物医药技术有限公司).

25 · Selected References and Evidence Classification

[1] Bjerke DL, Li R, Price JM, et al. The vitamin A ester retinyl propionate has a unique metabolic profile and higher retinoid-related bioactivity over retinol and retinyl palmitate in human skin models. Experimental Dermatology. 2021;30(2):226–236. doi:10.1111/exd.14219.

[2] Green C, Orchard G, Cerio R, Hawk JL. A clinicopathological study of the effects of topical retinyl propionate cream in skin photoageing. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology. 1998;23(4):162–167.

[3] Hawkins S, Adamus J, Chiang CY, et al. Retinyl propionate and climbazole combination demonstrates clinical improvement to the appearance of hyperpigmentation and deep wrinkling with minimal irritation. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2017;39(6):589–599. doi:10.1111/ics.12412.

[4] Fu JJJ, Hillebrand GG, Raleigh P, et al. A randomized, controlled comparative study of the wrinkle reduction benefits of a cosmetic niacinamide/peptide/retinyl propionate product regimen vs. a prescription 0.02% tretinoin product regimen. British Journal of Dermatology. 2010;162(3):647–654.

[5] Lam ECS, Li R, Rodrigues MR, et al. Enhanced retinoid response by a combination of the vitamin A ester retinyl propionate with niacinamide and a flavonoid containing Ceratonia siliqua extract in retinoid responsive in vitro models. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2021;43(1):102–106.

[6] Wang Q, Hu F, Hu X, et al. The synergistic effect of retinyl propionate and hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2023;22(7):2040–2049.

[7] Bai D, Hu F, Xu H, et al. High Stability and Low Irritation of Retinol Propionate and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate Supramolecular Nanoparticles with Effective Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy. Pharmaceutics. 2023;15(3):731.

[8] Fisher GJ, Datta SC, Talwar HS, et al. Molecular basis of sun-induced premature skin ageing and retinoid antagonism. Nature. 1996;379:335–339.

[9] Griffiths CEM, Russman AN, Majmudar G, et al. Restoration of collagen formation in photodamaged human skin by tretinoin. New England Journal of Medicine. 1993;329:530–535.

[10] Okano J, Levy C, Lichti U, et al. Cutaneous retinoic acid levels determine hair follicle development and downgrowth. Journal of Biological Chemistry. 2012;287(47):39304–39315. doi:10.1074/jbc.M112.397273.

[11] Wen L, Fan Z, Huang W, et al. Retinoic acid drives hair follicle stem cell activation via Wnt/β-catenin signalling in androgenetic alopecia. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology.

[12] Sharma A, Goren A, Dhurat R, et al. Tretinoin enhances minoxidil response in androgenetic alopecia patients by upregulating follicular sulfotransferase enzymes. Dermatologic Therapy. 2019;32(3):e12915.

[13] Mezei M, Gulasekharam V. Liposomes — a selective drug delivery system for the topical route of administration: lotion dosage form. Life Sciences. 1980;26(18):1473–1477.

[14] Cevc G, Blume G. Lipid vesicles penetrate into intact skin owing to the transdermal osmotic gradients and hydration force. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta. 1992;1104(1):226–232.

Evidence classification: [1] and [2] provide direct RP evidence. [3] and [4] report human data for RP-containing combinations. [5]–[7] concern RP combinations or delivery systems. [8]–[12] provide retinoid-class mechanistic evidence. [13] and [14] are classic liposomal delivery publications.

PuriPharm Co. Ltd. 浦瑞生物医药技术有限公司 · PURISOME® FlexVes™ Liposome Technology

01 · PuriActives® NanoCalmin: Product Presentation

Multi-pathway soothing science for skin and scalp. A product presentation focused on sensitive skin and scalp care.

Key ingredient: Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid.

“Skin Calm. Scalp Calm. One Multi-Pathway Solution.”

PuriPharm Co. Ltd. (浦瑞生物医药技术有限公司).

02 · Beyond Anti-Irritant: Multi-Pathway Soothing Science

NanoCalmin’s five core pathways involve histamine, mast cells, the substance P–NK1R neurogenic itch axis, inflammatory cytokine cascades, and oxidative stress.

Five core claims: anti-itch soothing, redness reduction, suppression of histamine-related responses, anti-inflammatory soothing, and antioxidant defense.

Applications span skin care, body care, scalp care, and hair care, with one multi-pathway solution for skin and scalp.

Sources: Schmaus et al., 2007, and Lotts et al., 2017. [1,3]

Five core soothing pathways

03 · Product Identity: Nature-Inspired Molecular Precision

Core INCI: Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid. Research name: Dihydroavenanthramide D (DHAvD). Molecular weight: 285.3.

This molecularly defined synthetic analogue is inspired by the structure of naturally occurring oat avenanthramides.

Product attributes: a defined molecular composition and traceable structure, identifiable efficacy targets supported by published mechanisms, high batch consistency and controllable quality, suitability for modern skin and scalp care formulations, and anti-irritant, anti-itch, anti-redness, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties.

Oat-inspired avenanthramide science. Source: Sur et al., 2008. [4]

04 · The Problem: Sensitive Skin Is More Than Histamine

Itch involves a cascade of neural, immune, and inflammatory events.

The source schematic presents environmental or chemical stimuli (friction, dryness, pollution) → keratinocytes → substance P release → NK1R activation → mast cell degranulation → itch, redness, and irritation. Histamine and inflammatory mediators are released, while ROS and oxidative stress further amplify the inflammatory cascade.

Skin itch is a complex process involving nerves, immune responses, mast cells, and inflammatory mediators. NanoCalmin is positioned for multi-pathway intervention.

Sources: Lotts et al., 2017, and Sur et al., 2008. [3,4]

Neural, immune, and inflammatory cascade schematic

05 · Mechanism 1: Targeting the SP–NK1R Neuroimmune Itch Axis

The source pathway is substance P / neurokinin A (SP / NKA) → NK1R → Ca²⁺ signaling → mast cell degranulation → itch and inflammation.

Research on DHAvD reports interaction with the neurokinin-1 receptor (NK1R), reduced SP/NKA-mediated intracellular Ca²⁺ signaling, inhibition of SP-induced mast cell degranulation, and reduced IL-6-related inflammatory responses in keratinocytes and macrophages.

This supports upstream intervention in the neurogenic itch cascade. Source: Lotts et al., 2017, doi:10.1111/exd.13265. [3]

DHAvD and the SP–NK1R-related mechanism schematic

06 · Mechanism 2: Dose-Dependent Histamine Control

After substance P stimulation, net histamine release from mast cells decreased with increasing DHAvD concentration.

Original chart data: 0.5, 5, 50, 250, and 500 ppm correspond to 87%, 74%, 60%, 33%, and 19% of control release, respectively. At 500 ppm, net release was approximately 19% of control.

The vertical axis shows histamine release as a percentage of control. Lower values indicate less release. Across 0.5–500 ppm, the source describes a clear and reproducible dose–response relationship.

Source: Schmaus et al., 2007. [1]

Net histamine release (% of control)

07 · Human Efficacy: Comfort in a Histamine Challenge Model

Study design: a double-blind human skin prick study using histamine HCl to induce itch and erythema, 10 subjects, a single application of 500 ppm DHAvD, 180 minutes of follow-up, and a 0–6 scoring scale.

Compared with placebo and untreated areas, the 500 ppm DHAvD formulation reduced erythema faster and significantly lowered itch scores, with p < 0.05.

The two charts present itch and erythema scores, retaining the source curves and data. They are illustrative redrawings based on Figure 5 of the original publication and should not be treated as precise experimental measurements.

Source: Schmaus et al., 2007. [1]

Itch scores over time; illustrative redrawing

Redness scores over time; illustrative redrawing

08 · Antioxidant Activity: Defense Beyond Soothing

ABTS radical scavenging assay: DHAvD had an IC50 of 26.54 μM, equivalent to 7.57 μg/mL.

The source cites a paper reporting radical scavenging activity in a range similar to that of reference antioxidants such as α-tocopherol and Trolox.

The schematic compares lower to higher scavenging activity and places DHAvD near the reference antioxidant range. It does not provide precise numerical values for the reference antioxidants. Calm inflammation and defend against oxidative stress.

Application opportunities include care for environmental irritation, sensitivity associated with photoaging, support for tolerance of active ingredients, sensitive scalp care, and everyday urban skin stress.

Source: Schmaus et al., 2007. [1]

Schematic comparison of ABTS radical scavenging activity

09 · Stability: A Broad pH Range for Formulation Development

Study conditions: 500 ppm DHAvD over 24 weeks at pH 3, 5, 7, 9, and 12 and temperatures of 5, 25, and 40°C. The complete stability matrix appears below.

Only slight degradation was observed at pH 3 and 12 after 24 weeks, while the molecule remained stable at pH 5–9.

These data support formulation development from acidic skin care to shaving products and high-pH hair bleaching or coloring applications.

Note: these are published stability data for the DHAvD molecule. The final recommended range for commercial NanoCalmin follows PuriPharm’s product documentation.

Source: Schmaus et al., 2007. [1]

Temperature / pH	3	5	7	9	12
5 °C	Slight degradation	Stable	Stable	Stable	Slight degradation
25 °C	Slight degradation	Stable	Stable	Stable	Slight degradation
40 °C	Slight degradation	Stable	Stable	Stable	Slight degradation

10 · Skin Delivery: Why Skin Availability Matters

In a study of specific vehicles, DHAvD in the viable epidermis and dermis at 300 minutes accounted for approximately 12% of the applied dose with a conventional vehicle and 41% with an optimized BuG/PeG vehicle.

Adding the BuG/PeG system increased DHAvD release approximately 2–4-fold within 30 minutes and increased the amount in viable skin layers approximately twofold.

Four linked stages influence efficacy: solubilization → release → skin availability → biological response. This chain is the scientific basis of NanoCalmin’s delivery design concept.

Data note: the 12%, 41%, and 2–4-fold figures come from published studies of specific BuG/PeG vehicle or diol systems. They illustrate the value of delivery design and are not measurements of NanoCalmin itself.

Source: Heuschkel et al., 2008, doi:10.1016/j.ejpb.2008.04.005. [2]

Published results for specific vehicles, not measurements of NanoCalmin

Solubilization, release, skin availability, and biological response

11 · NanoCalmin Technology: A Formulation-Ready Delivery Concept

Design chain: the active molecule DHAvD → solubilization and encapsulation in a nano/phospholipid carrier → uniform dispersion compatible with aqueous and emulsified systems → contact and functional performance on skin or scalp.

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid presents solubility and delivery challenges in aqueous applications. NanoCalmin uses delivery and solubilization design to improve suitability for cosmetic formulations.

Key benefits: easier dispersion and use, greater active availability within the formulation, support for skin contact and functional performance, and suitability for different sensory profiles and dosage forms.

NanoCalmin-specific particle size, encapsulation efficiency, and other technical parameters must follow PuriPharm’s official test data and product documentation. The image illustrates texture design for multiple formulation formats.

Source: PuriPharm NanoCalmin product information.

NanoCalmin delivery design concept

12 · Skin Applications: Interrupting the Itch–Scratch Cycle

The source cycle is irritation → itch → scratching → barrier damage → amplified inflammation. NanoCalmin is positioned to help interrupt this cycle.

Five application groups: soothing serums for sensitive skin, barrier care creams, soothing alongside acids and retinoids, post-sun/post-shave/depilation aftercare, and body care for dry and itchy skin.

The concept extends soothing care from redness management to multiple neural, immune, and oxidative stress pathways.

Source: PuriPharm NanoCalmin application concepts.

Itch–scratch cycle schematic

13 · Application Data: A 4-Week Study in Dry and Itchy Skin

A 4-week double-blind crossover study enrolled 40 subjects aged 35–80 years with pronounced dryness and itch. A system containing 2% of the relevant commercial DHAvD formulation was compared with vehicle, assessing scaling, erythema, and itch.

Results: scaling improved significantly versus vehicle (p < 0.041), erythema improved, and itch decreased markedly. The source describes clear downward trends in erythema and itch.

The chart is an illustrative redrawing of 4-week clinical scores, retaining the original presentation’s values and groups.

Attribution note: this is an application study of a commercial combination formula containing DHAvD and provides formulation-level evidence. “2% commercial formula” does not mean 2% pure Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid.

Source: supplied technical dossier.

Clinical scores at 4 weeks; illustrative redrawing

14 · Scalp Care: Comfort Beyond Dandruff Control

Consumer-perceivable scalp concerns include itch, redness, tightness, and irritation. Conventional dandruff care focuses on microorganisms and flakes, while comfort care addresses everyday scalp discomfort.

The original chart compares an anti-dandruff shampoo vehicle with a system containing 1% of a DHAvD-containing soothing ingredient on days 0, 21, and 42. The added-system group showed larger decreases in itch scores at days 21 and 42. The chart is an illustrative redrawing.

Anti-dandruff plus anti-itch positioning connects flake control with greater scalp comfort.

Note: the test formulation also contained climbazole. NanoCalmin is positioned for complementary itch relief and soothing, without claims of direct antifungal or anti-dandruff action.

Source: scalp application study data in the supplied technical dossier.

Scalp itch scores; illustrative redrawing

15 · Application Matrix: Scalp and Hair Care Opportunities

One active supports multiple scalp and hair care opportunities. The table retains all eight original cells and their functional positioning.

Core benefits: anti-itch, anti-redness, anti-irritation, and antioxidant activity.

Source: PuriPharm NanoCalmin application matrix.

Anti-Dandruff ShampooAnti-Itch · Anti-Irritation	Sensitive Scalp ShampooAnti-Redness · Anti-Itch	Scalp Soothing SerumAnti-Itch · Anti-Redness	Hair Color / Bleach AftercareAnti-Irritation · Antioxidant
Anti-Itch Scalp TonicAnti-Itch	Men’s Scalp CareAnti-Itch · Anti-Irritation	Shaving / Beard CareAnti-Redness · Anti-Irritation	Skin + ScalpOne Active, Two Application AreasNanoCalmin

16 · Supporting Evidence: Reconstructed Human Epidermis

A 2014 in vitro study assessed IL-1α in a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model. Inflammatory stimulation increased IL-1α release, while a DHAvD-containing complex reduced release, with an illustrated inhibition level of approximately 90%. Treated tissue showed approximately 35% higher cell viability than untreated tissue.

Attribution note: the study assessed a combination formulation containing DHAvD. It illustrates potential within soothing complexes, and its results cannot be attributed entirely to pure DHAvD alone.

This formulation-level evidence supports the development rationale for combination systems incorporating NanoCalmin.

Source: de Yzaguirre et al., 2014, doi:10.4236/jcdsa.2014.45040. [5]

17 · Patents and Applications: Itch-Relief Systems in a European Patent

Patent number: EP 1893161 B1. Title: “Mixtures Comprising Anthranilic Acid Amides and Cooling Agents as Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Compositions for Alleviating Itching.”

Applications described include after-shave balms, shaving foams, wipes, and various topical care systems using low addition levels for itch relief, redness reduction, and anti-irritant care.

The patent number, title, and technical applications are presented as formulation development references for NanoCalmin. Images include an application photograph and the DHAvD molecular structure.

Source: EP 1893161 B1. [6]

18 · Formulation Guide: NanoCalmin

Recommended dosage: 0.1–5%. Recommended working pH: 3–8. Processing: add at approximately 45°C or below. Storage: keep cool and protect from light. Compatibility: common skin, body, and scalp care systems.

Dosage forms: essences/serums, creams/lotions, gels, masks, body lotions, shampoos, scalp serums, scalp tonics, after-shave care, and post-color care.

All parameters must follow PuriPharm’s latest TDS or SPEC.

Source: PuriPharm NanoCalmin TDS, latest version.

19 · Value Summary: One Molecule, Multiple Pathways, Skin and Scalp

Five value areas: rapid comfort for itch and redness, dose-dependent histamine release suppression, modulation of the SP–NK1R neuroimmune itch axis, antioxidant defense, and applications from sensitive skin to sensitive scalp.

“Calm More Than Skin.” NanoCalmin: multi-pathway soothing science for skin and scalp.

PuriPharm Co. Ltd. (浦瑞生物医药技术有限公司).

20 · References: Core Publications and Patent

1.　Schmaus G, Herrmann M, Joppe H, Lange S, Koch O, Pillai R, Röding J. Dihydroavenanthramide D for Anti-irritant and Anti-itch. Cosmetics & Toiletries. 2007;122(11):55–64.

2.　Heuschkel S, Wohlrab J, Schmaus G, Neubert RHH. Modulation of Dihydroavenanthramide D release and skin penetration by 1,2-alkanediols. European Journal of Pharmaceutics and Biopharmaceutics. 2008;70:239–247. doi:10.1016/j.ejpb.2008.04.005.

3.　Lotts T, Agelopoulos K, Phan NQ, et al. Dihydroavenanthramide D inhibits mast cell degranulation and exhibits anti-inflammatory effects through the activation of neurokinin-1 receptor. Experimental Dermatology. 2017;26(8):739–742. doi:10.1111/exd.13265.

4.　Sur R, Nigam A, Grote D, Liebel F, Southall MD. Avenanthramides, polyphenols from oats, exhibit anti-inflammatory and anti-itch activity. Archives of Dermatological Research. 2008;300:569–574. doi:10.1007/s00403-008-0858-x.

5.　de Yzaguirre MM, Bacchini G, Luna EG, Vila-Martínez E. Anti-Inflammatory Efficacy of Product Containing “Skin Calm Complex” in Vitro Reconstructed Epidermis. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications. 2014;4:309–315. doi:10.4236/jcdsa.2014.45040.

6.　EP 1893161 B1. Mixtures Comprising Anthranilic Acid Amides and Cooling Agents as Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Compositions for Alleviating Itching.

PuriPharm Co. Ltd. · NanoCalmin

PuriActives® BioCalmin: Dihydroavenanthramide D

Precision active ingredient. Multi-pathway soothing for skin and scalp, inspired by oat science.

INCI: HYDROXYPHENYL PROPAMIDOBENZOIC ACID. Active molecule: Dihydroavenanthramide D (DHAvD).

PuriPharm Co. Ltd. (浦瑞生物医药技术有限公司).

Executive Summary: One Molecule, Multiple Soothing Pathways

PuriActives® BioCalmin supports soothing through multiple pathways, from histamine release to oxidative stress.

Six functional dimensions: rapid itch relief, redness reduction, suppression of histamine-related responses, irritation protection, modulation of inflammatory responses, and antioxidant defense.

Applications span both skin and scalp care.

Molecular Origin: From Oat Science to Molecular Precision

Oats have long been used to soothe dry, irritated, and itchy skin. Naturally occurring oat avenanthramides are among their characteristic active components.

Development pathway: natural oat avenanthramides → structure-inspired molecular optimization → the synthetic analogue dihydroavenanthramide D (DHAvD) → standardized manufacturing → PuriActives® BioCalmin.

BioCalmin is a molecularly defined synthetic analogue inspired by the structure and soothing mechanisms of natural oat avenanthramides. The presentation highlights stability, defined activity, identifiable targets, and quantifiable efficacy.

Molecular weight: approximately 285.3. Four attributes: nature-inspired design, a defined molecular structure, reproducible efficacy, and formulation versatility. Defined active molecule. Precision efficacy. Scientific evidence.

Skin Biology: The Biology Behind Itch and Redness

Itch and redness in sensitive skin involve a cascade linking neural signals, immune responses, and inflammatory mediators.

External stimuli (environmental, chemical, or mechanical stress) → sensory nerve endings → substance P release → mast cell degranulation → release of histamine and inflammatory mediators → itch, redness, and irritation.

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) and oxidative stress can amplify inflammation and prolong discomfort. Itch involves neural signaling, immune mediators, and oxidative stress, so intervention at a single target may not cover the full cascade.

BioCalmin is positioned for intervention at several levels, including substance P-related neural signaling, histamine-related immune responses, and ROS-related oxidative stress.

Core Mechanism: Targeting Histamine Release in the Itch Cascade

Stress → sensory nerves → substance P signaling → mast cells → histamine release → itch, redness, and irritation. BioCalmin targets the substance P–mast cell–histamine step.

Research shows that DHAvD can inhibit substance P-induced histamine release from mast cells, providing an upstream biological basis for itch relief, redness reduction, and anti-irritant activity. [1]

In Vitro Evidence: Dose-Dependent Histamine Control

In the mast cell model, substance P-induced net histamine release decreased as DHAvD concentration increased. The presentation describes biological activity at low concentrations.

Chart data (DHAvD concentration / net histamine release as a percentage of control): 0.5 ppm / 87%, 5 ppm / 74%, 50 ppm / 60%, 250 ppm / 33%, and 500 ppm / 19%.

At 500 ppm, net release was approximately 19% of control. The vertical axis shows net histamine release (% of control), and the horizontal axis shows DHAvD concentration. Values represent remaining release, rather than percentage inhibition. [1]

Human Evidence: Itch Relief in a Histamine Skin Prick Model

Study design: double-blind, 10 subjects, histamine HCl at 10 mg/mL, 500 ppm DHAvD as the test active, a single application, 180 minutes of observation, and an itch score scale of 0–6.

Itch scores declined faster in the 500 ppm DHAvD area, with p < 0.05 versus placebo and untreated areas. The chart compares untreated skin, placebo, and 500 ppm DHAvD at 0, 30, 60, 90, 120, 150, and 180 minutes.

The curves were redrawn from the DHAvD-related curves in Figure 5 of the cited publication and illustrate trends only. [1]

Human Evidence: Visible Redness Reduction

In the same histamine skin prick study, erythema scores decreased faster in the area treated with 500 ppm DHAvD. Itch and erythema scores declined faster than in placebo and untreated areas, with p < 0.05. The presentation summarizes the benefits as itch relief, redness reduction, and improved comfort.

The chart compares untreated skin, placebo, and 500 ppm DHAvD over 0–180 minutes. Erythema curves were redrawn from the same human study and illustrate trends only. [1]

Antioxidant Defense: The ABTS Radical Scavenging Assay

DHAvD had an IC50 of 26.54 μM (7.57 μg/mL) in the ABTS radical scavenging assay. Reference antioxidants were α-tocopherol (vitamin E) and Trolox, a water-soluble vitamin E analogue.

DHAvD demonstrated good radical scavenging activity in an ABTS assay alongside these reference antioxidants, supporting antioxidant defense in addition to soothing. [1]

Potential application contexts include urban environmental irritation, sensitivity after light exposure, pollution stress, formulations with potent actives, sensitive scalp care, and scalp stress after coloring or perming. Calm the skin and defend against oxidative stress.

Multi-Pathway Soothing: Multiple Levels of Inflammation Control

Pathway 1: substance P → mast cells → histamine. This neuroimmune itch cascade is associated with itch and redness.

Pathway 2: environmental stress → ROS → an inflammatory cascade. Oxidative stress can amplify inflammation, providing a rationale for antioxidant defense.

Pathway 3: keratinocyte stress → cytokine signaling → skin discomfort.

A soothing complex containing DHAvD has shown anti-inflammatory evidence in reconstructed human epidermis. The multi-pathway rationale combines molecular mechanisms with formulation synergy. One molecule, intervention at multiple levels: calm signals, protect against stress, and restore comfort.

In Vitro Evidence: Reconstructed Human Epidermis

Test system: reconstructed human epidermis in an inflammatory injury model, treated with a soothing formulation containing DHAvD plus a botanical complex. Endpoints were IL-1α release and tissue cell viability.

After inflammatory stimulation, the DHAvD-containing complex showed approximately 90% inhibition of IL-1α release and a 35% increase in tissue cell viability versus untreated tissue. The presentation cites this as tissue-level evidence for DHAvD-containing soothing formulations.

Attribution note: these results concern a DHAvD-containing soothing complex (Skin Calm Complex) and cannot be attributed entirely to DHAvD alone. [5]

Stability: Long-Term Observation Across a Wide pH Range

Published stability conditions for the active molecule: 500 ppm DHAvD, pH 3, 5, 7, 9, and 12, temperatures of 5°C, 25°C, and 40°C, and observation for up to 24 weeks.

The presentation reports only slight degradation after 24 weeks, even at pH 3 and pH 12, indicating a broad molecular stability window of pH 3–12.

Potential development areas include acidic skin care, shaving products, hair color, hair bleach, and hair care systems with high pH. These are published data for the DHAvD molecule. The recommended pH for commercial BioCalmin must follow PuriPharm’s latest TDS. [1]

Skin Care Applications: Precision Soothing for Sensitive Skin

Precision soothing addresses multiple sensitivity signals, including itch, redness, irritation, and oxidative stress.

Applications include sensitive skin serums, barrier repair creams, care after exfoliating acids, soothing support alongside retinoids, post-sun care, post-shave care, depilation aftercare, and body care for dry and itchy skin.

Image: real photography of sensitive skin care.

Application Study: Comfort for Dry and Itchy Skin

Study design: 40 subjects aged 35–80 years with visible dryness and itch, a 4-week double-blind crossover study, vehicle versus a DHAvD-containing formula, and assessment of scaling, erythema, and itch.

Scaling improved with p < 0.001 versus baseline and p < 0.041 versus vehicle. Erythema showed continued improvement over 4 weeks. Itch showed an improving trend, described in the presentation as a perceivable gain in comfort.

All three endpoints showed improving trends with the DHAvD-containing formula. Bar lengths illustrate trends and do not represent exact numerical proportions.

Source: supplied technical dossier. The tested formula contained a commercial DHAvD ingredient, rather than pure DHAvD.

Scalp Care Value: Consumer-Perceivable Comfort

The scalp discomfort cycle: dandruff → itch → scratching → redness → barrier stress → increased discomfort.

Conventional anti-dandruff systems primarily address dandruff-associated microorganisms. BioCalmin adds a comfort dimension through itch relief, reduced irritation, redness care, and scalp comfort.

A two-dimensional approach combines dandruff control with scalp comfort. Image: real photography illustrating healthy scalp care.

Application Study: Itch Relief in Dandruff-Prone Scalp

A 42-day shampoo application study used a base shampoo containing conventional anti-dandruff agents. The chart compares placebo (the anti-dandruff base shampoo) with a system containing 1% of a DHAvD-containing soothing ingredient, assessed on days 0, 21, and 42.

With the added soothing system, scalp itch scores continued to decline on days 21 and 42, with p < 0.05 versus baseline. The curves were redrawn from the 42-day application data and illustrate trends only.

The positioning combines dandruff control with itch relief and improved scalp comfort.

Positioning boundary: the original test system contained conventional anti-dandruff agents such as climbazole. BioCalmin’s core value is itch relief, soothing, reduced irritation, and improved scalp comfort. No antifungal or dandruff-treatment claim is made. Source: supplied technical dossier.

Application Matrix: From Skin Care to Scalp Care

Hair and scalp applications span four dimensions: anti-itch, anti-redness, anti-irritation, and antioxidant activity. The table retains all application rows and markers from the presentation.

From shampoos and scalp serums to care after coloring, perming, or bleaching and men’s grooming, one active supports skin and scalp comfort across multiple applications.

Application	Anti-Itch	Anti-Redness	Anti-Irritation	Antioxidant
Sensitive Scalp Shampoo	●	●	●	●
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo	●	●	●	●
Scalp Soothing Serum	●	●	●	●
Anti-Itch Scalp Tonic	●	●	●	●
Hair Color Aftercare	●	●	●	●
Bleaching Aftercare	●	●	●	●
Perm Aftercare	●	●	●	●
Daily Scalp Care	●	●	●	●
Men’s Scalp Care	●	●	●	●
Beard / Shaving Care	●	●	●	●

Formulation Science: Release and Skin Availability

DHAvD has a molecular weight of approximately 285.3 and a logP of approximately 3.34, with relatively limited water solubility.

Published research shows that suitable 1,2-alkanediol systems can improve DHAvD release and skin availability. In specific BuG/PeG systems, release within 30 minutes increased approximately 2–4-fold, and the amount reaching viable skin layers increased approximately twofold. Appropriate carrier design helps translate molecular properties into formulation performance.

The original presentation chart shows the amount in the viable epidermis and dermis at 300 minutes as a percentage of the applied dose: approximately 12% for the standard vehicle and 41% for the optimized BuG/PeG system.

These results concern specific experimental formulations and do not substantiate a claim that “BioCalmin has 41% skin penetration.” [2]

Formulation Guide

Recommended use level: 0.1–5%. Recommended working pH: 3–8. Processing: add at approximately 45°C or below (≤45°C). Storage: keep cool and protect from light.

Suitable formats: essences, serums, lotions, creams, gels, masks, body care, shampoos, conditioners, scalp serums, scalp tonics, after-shave care, and hair color aftercare.

These parameters are based on PuriPharm’s internal BioCalmin documentation. If they differ from the latest TDS or SPEC, the latest technical documentation takes precedence.

Product Summary: Precision Soothing, Defined by Science

PuriActives® BioCalmin has six core positioning areas: rapid itch relief, visible redness care, inhibition of substance P-induced histamine release, soothing of inflammatory stress through multiple pathways, antioxidant defense, and applications across skin, body, scalp, and hair care.

One molecule. Multi-pathway comfort. Dihydroavenanthramide D brings molecular science to precision soothing.

PuriPharm Co. Ltd. Defined molecule. Proven comfort.

References and Data Sources

1. Schmaus G, Herrmann M, Joppe H, Lange S, Koch O, Pillai R, Röding J. Dihydroavenanthramide D for Anti-irritant and Anti-itch. Cosmetics & Toiletries. 2007;122(11):55–64.

2. Heuschkel S, Wohlrab J, Schmaus G, Neubert RHH. Modulation of Dihydroavenanthramide D release and skin penetration by 1,2-alkanediols. European Journal of Pharmaceutics and Biopharmaceutics. 2008;70:239–247. doi:10.1016/j.ejpb.2008.04.005.

3. Heuschkel S, Wohlrab J, Neubert RHH. Dermal and transdermal targeting of dihydroavenanthramide D using enhancer molecules and novel microemulsions.

4. Sur R, Nigam A, Grote D, Liebel F, Southall MD. Avenanthramides, polyphenols from oats, exhibit anti-inflammatory and anti-itch activity. Archives of Dermatological Research. 2008;300:569–574. doi:10.1007/s00403-008-0858-x.

5. de Yzaguirre MM, Bacchini G, Luna EG, Vila-Martínez E. Anti-Inflammatory Efficacy of Product Containing “Skin Calm Complex” in Vitro Reconstructed Epidermis. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications. 2014;4:309–315. doi:10.4236/jcdsa.2014.45040.

Application study data are from the supplied technical dossier. Reference 3 in the source presentation does not include the year, journal, volume, pages, or DOI.

NanoActive RosUrsol™

Rosemary Nano-Liposomes

INCI — ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS (ROSEMARY) EXTRACT · enriched with high-purity ursolic acid and carnosic acid

Botanical intelligence · defined actives · engineered delivery

Powered by PURISOME® FlexVes™ liposome technology

Phospholipid bilayer vesicle — the PURISOME® nano-liposome platform

PuriPharm Co., Ltd.NanoActive™ · PURISOME®

01 · POSITIONING

From botanical extract to precision active platform

NanoActive RosUrsol™ is not an ordinary rosemary extract — it is a standardized botanical active delivery platform.

Rosemary (Mediterranean botanical)　→　Standardized actives (ursolic acid ＋ carnosic acid)　→　NanoActive™ (water-compatible platform)

Conventional rosemary extract

· Composition may vary from batch to batch

· Limited standardization of active constituents

· Lipophilic actives poorly compatible with water-based formulas

· Positioning dominated by the botanical story

· Performance strongly dependent on extraction process and base

NanoActive RosUrsol™ rosemary nano-liposomes

· Enriched with defined, high-value phytochemicals

· High-purity ursolic acid + carnosic acid actives

· Water-compatible delivery concept

· Advanced lipid carrier technology

· Cosmetic and food application potential

· Science-driven positioning

The name RosUrsol™ — Ros (rosemary) + Ursol (ursolic acid) — stands for a standardized rosemary-derived platform built on high-value lipophilic phytochemicals, with carnosic acid as the complementary active axis.

01 · POSITIONING

RosUrsol™ at a glance

Four pillars define the platform — chemistry, delivery, biology and application breadth.

Dual botanical actives

Enriched with high-purity ursolic acid and carnosic acid — two chemically defined lipophilic rosemary phytochemicals.

Water compatibility

A water-dispersible delivery form designed for modern water-rich formulation systems.

Multi-pathway biology

Complementary mechanisms spanning skin tone, photo-stress, barrier, inflammation and neuro-skin biology.

Cosmetics + food

The same rosemary-derived defense chemistry serving skin care, scalp care and food-lipid protection.

PRODUCT IDENTITY

Product — NanoActive RosUrsol™ rosemary nano-liposomes · INCI — rosemary extract (ROSEMARY EXTRACT)

Active platform — a standardized rosemary-derived fraction enriched with high-purity ursolic acid and carnosic acid

Technology — powered by PURISOME® FlexVes™ liposome technology

02 · PHYTOCHEMISTRY

Rosemary — a phytochemical platform

RosUrsol™ focuses on the high-value lipophilic active space of the rosemary leaf.

Rosmarinus officinalis L. (Salvia rosmarinus), Lamiaceae — a chemically rich Mediterranean botanical.

NanoActive RosUrsol™ focuses on the lipophilic fraction — ursolic acid + carnosic acid.

Molecule	Class	Formula	MW	Solubility
Ursolic acid	Pentacyclic triterpene	C30H48O3	456.7	Oil-soluble
Carnosic acid	Phenolic diterpene	C20H28O4	332.4	Oil-soluble
Carnosol	Phenolic diterpene	C20H26O4	330.4	Oil-soluble
Rosmarinic acid	Phenolic acid	C18H16O8	360.3	Water-soluble
Related phenolics	Polar fraction	—	—	Water-soluble

Lipophilic fraction — the RosUrsol™ space　·　Polar fraction — outside this platform’s scope

Molecular data sources — PubChem (CID 64945, 65126) and published rosemary active specifications. Ursolic acid, carnosic acid, carnosol and rosmarinic acid are chemically distinct molecules.

02 · PHYTOCHEMISTRY

Two signature molecules

Defined chemistry first — the foundation of standardization.

URSOLIC ACID

Pentacyclic triterpene

C30H48O3 · MW 456.7 · XlogP 7.3

CAS 77-52-1

CARNOSIC ACID

Phenolic diterpene

C20H28O4 · MW 332.4 · XlogP 4.9

CAS 3650-09-7

Both are strongly lipophilic — delivery engineering is at the core of this platform.

Structures from PubChem (CID 64945, 65126). Formulas and molecular weights verified against public specifications.

03 · DUAL-ACTIVE SCIENCE

Two signature botanical actives, complementary biology

Each molecule covers different research territories; together they span skin defense, tone and structure.

URSOLIC ACIDpentacyclic triterpene — research areas

· Melanophagy — melanosome clearance　· biology of pigmentation　· cellular stress response· skin barrier / lipid biology　· ECM homeostasis　· inflammatory balance

NanoActive RosUrsol™an integrated botanical defense platform

CARNOSIC ACIDphenolic diterpene — research areas

· Antioxidant defense / ROS modulation　· Nrf2 cellular defense　· photoaging / MMP regulation· inflammatory signaling　· TRPA1 / neuro-skin biology　· lipid oxidation protection

04 · URSOLIC ACID

Beyond melanin synthesis: supporting melanosome clearance

Published research points to a second axis of skin-tone biology — degradation, not only production.

Evidence level 2 · primary research — ursolic acid, in vitro

In α-MSH-stimulated B16F1 melanocytes, ursolic acid (5–10 µM) activated autophagy, promoted melanosome degradation and reduced melanin content.

Bafilomycin A1, an autophagosome–lysosome fusion inhibitor, blocked melanosome clearance; knockout of the autophagy gene ATG5 abolished the anti-pigment effect — establishing melanophagy as the mechanism.

Park HJ et al. Biochem Biophys Res Commun. 2020;531(2):209–214. PMID 32792197.

04 · URSOLIC ACID

From mechanism to visible skin tone

Human evidence from an ursolic-acid-rich botanical system supports the relevance of ursolic-acid biology to skin tone.

Axis 1 — production

Melanogenesis regulation — tyrosinase and melanogenic regulators (TYRP-1, TYRP-2, MITF), demonstrated for ursolic-acid-rich systems in melanocyte models.

Axis 2 — clearance

Melanosome clearance — ursolic acid promotes melanosome autophagy (melanophagy) in B16F1 melanocytes (Park HJ et al. 2020).

Dual-axis tone management — production and clearance together tell a more complete skin-tone science story.

Annurca apple oil extract (AAO), standardized to 784 µg/mL ursolic acid; 2.5% formulation, randomized double-blind placebo-controlled trial, n = 42, 28 days; all endpoints p < 0.001 vs placebo. Maisto M et al. Sci Rep. 2025. PMID 41387498.

04 · URSOLIC ACID

Skin resilience: barrier lipids and ECM homeostasis

Ursolic-acid biology reaches beyond tone — into epidermal lipids and matrix balance.

Barrier and epidermal lipid biology

· Topical ursolic acid accelerated epidermal permeability-barrier recovery (>20% vs control at 6 h) and induced keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR-α — hairless-mouse and HaCaT models (Ahn SK et al. 2007, PMID 17727365).

· Liposome-encapsulated ursolic acid increased ceramides in cultured human keratinocytes and human skin, and collagen in dermal fibroblasts (Both DM et al. 2000, DOI 10.1159/000053280).

A liposomal precedent: the ceramide/collagen evidence above was generated with a liposomal ursolic-acid format — directly relevant to the PURISOME® delivery concept.

ECM homeostasis — not a “collagen booster”

Healthy ECM = synthesis ↔ organization ↔ remodeling. Published evidence suggests context-dependent regulation of extracellular-matrix biology. RosUrsol™ therefore uses balanced language:

· ECM homeostasis · matrix protection · healthy matrix turnover · firmer appearance

Sweeping claims such as “ursolic acid always increases collagen” are deliberately avoided — matrix biology is context-dependent.

Evidence level 2 — primary ursolic-acid research (in vitro / animal / human-skin ceramide assessment).

05 · CARNOSIC ACID

Where direct antioxidant chemistry meets cellular defense

Carnosic acid is not just “a strong antioxidant” — it defends on two complementary levels.

Level 1 — direct defense

· Reacts directly with ROS and free radicals

· Lipid-phase antioxidant chemistry — protection where oxidation begins

· Readily oxidized itself: a chemical quencher consumed in defense

Level 2 — biological defense

· Redox-sensitive cell signaling (Keap1–Nrf2–ARE)

· Activates endogenous defense enzymes

· Protection continues through its oxidized derivatives

Evidence level 2 — primary carnosic-acid research

Loussouarn M et al. Plant Physiology. 2017. PMID 28916593: when lipids are oxidized by ROS, carnosic acid is consumed and oxidized into derivatives including carnosol; EPR confirmed that carnosic acid — not carnosol — quenches ROS, while carnosol inhibits lipid peroxidation within the lipid phase. Carnosic acid does not remain chemically unchanged while acting as an antioxidant.

05 · CARNOSIC ACID

Helping cells build their own defense

The Keap1–Nrf2–ARE pathway — the cell’s own antioxidant program, switched on by redox-activated carnosic acid.

What it means for skin

· Nrf2 is the master regulator of the cellular antioxidant response

· Activation brings endogenous, durable defense capacity — not one-off radical quenching

· Supports photo-stress defense, skin resilience and healthy-aging positioning

Evidence discipline

· Keap1–Nrf2 activation by carnosic acid is established in experimental cell and neuronal models (Satoh T et al. J Neurochem. 2008)

· Confirming skin relevance in fibroblasts and keratinocytes is a priority of the RosUrsol™ research program

Evidence level 2/4 — pathway literature; neuronal Nrf2 data are not presented as human-skin clinical evidence. Pathway diagram redrawn.

05 · CARNOSIC ACID

Interrupting the UV–ROS–MMP cascade

Photoaging is a signaling cascade — carnosic acid intervenes at two defined nodes.

What human skin-cell studies show

· Carnosic acid significantly and concentration-dependently inhibited UVA- and UVB-induced MMP-1, MMP-3 and MMP-9 expression in human dermal fibroblasts (Hs68)

· UVB-induced ROS generation was attenuated; ERK activation and AP-1 formation were suppressed

· EGFR activation was unaffected — suggesting selectivity within the upstream cascade

· UVB-enhanced GADD45 expression (a marker of oxidative DNA damage) was significantly reduced

Park M et al. Exp Dermatol. 2013;22(5):336–341. DOI 10.1111/exd.12138. PMID 23614740. Cascade diagram redrawn; evidence level 2 — human skin-cell research.

05 · CARNOSIC ACID

The evidence in human skin cells

Park M et al. 2013 — the key dataset behind the carnosic-acid anti-photoaging story.

Study design

· Compound — carnosic acid (rosemary phenolic diterpene)

· Models — Hs68 dermal fibroblasts; primary normal human dermal fibroblasts; normal human epidermal keratinocytes

· Stimulus — UVA / UVB irradiation

· Readouts — Western blot, qRT-PCR, enzyme-activity assays

Key findings

· MMP inhibition — concentration-dependent inhibition of UV-induced MMP-1, MMP-3, MMP-9

· Signal blockade — suppressed UVB-induced ERK activation and AP-1 formation

· ROS attenuation — reduced UVB-induced ROS generation; EGFR unaffected

· DNA-damage marker — UVB-enhanced GADD45 significantly reduced

· Cross-model confirmation — fibroblast line, primary fibroblasts and keratinocytes

Park M et al. Exp Dermatol. 2013;22(5):336–341. DOI 10.1111/exd.12138. PMID 23614740. Evidence level 2 — human skin-cell research; not finished-product data for NanoActive RosUrsol™.

05 · CARNOSIC ACID

Calming stress signals upstream

Carnosic acid acts on the signaling chain that drives inflammatory mediators — not merely at the downstream end.

Validated in skin-relevant models

· HaCaT keratinocytes — inhibited IL-6, IL-8 and MCP-1 under SLS / retinoic-acid stimulation

· RAW264.7 macrophages — blocked NO, TNF-α and PGE₂ release upon TLR2 / TLR4 activation

Positioning territories

· Environmentally stressed skin　· inflammaging & skin resilience　· sensitive-skin positioning　· scalp stress & the follicular environment

Oh J et al. Mediators Inflamm. 2012;2012:781375. DOI 10.1155/2012/781375. PMID 22577255. Pathway diagram redrawn; evidence level 2. Cosmetic concept only — no disease-treatment claims.

05 · CARNOSIC ACID

Activating the neuro-skin dialogue

A 2025 discovery links carnosic acid to TRPA1, a cutaneous sensory-neuron channel — a forward-looking science story.

Experimental findings

· Topical rosemary extract accelerated wound closure and reduced fibrosis in an adult mouse wound model

· Carnosic acid was identified as the key active acting via TRPA1

· Mice lacking TRPA1 in sensory neurons lost the pro-regenerative response

Translation into cosmetic language

· skin regenerative biology　· neuro-skin communication　· skin recovery & resilience　· tissue-renewal biology

Rapp E et al. JCI Insight. 2025:e196267. DOI 10.1172/jci.insight.196267. PMID 41129748.

05 · CARNOSIC ACID

2025 regenerative biology: the spotlight study

Rapp E et al., JCI Insight 2025 — how a topical rosemary extract talks to sensory neurons.

01A screen pinpointed the signal

Among multiple botanical extracts, rosemary specifically activated the TRPA1 ion channel — the channel behind the regenerative response in the mouse ear-wound model.

02Carnosic acid is the key active

Carnosic acid — the principal bioactive of rosemary leaf — acts as a TRPA1 agonist on cutaneous sensory neurons, connecting phytochemistry to neuro-skin signaling.

03TRPA1 dependence confirmed

Mice lacking TRPA1 in sensory neurons showed no rosemary-induced regenerative response — mechanistic specificity, not a generic botanical effect.

What it means for ROSURSOL™

· One defined molecule — carnosic acid — carries the activity, supporting the “standardized active” positioning

· Opens a credible neuro-skin and skin-recovery narrative for premium skin and scalp care

· Shows how fast rosemary science is advancing — and why defined actives matter

Claims discipline.These are experimental mouse findings. RosUrsol™ communication language is regenerative biology, recovery and resilience — never wound or scar treatment.

06 · INTEGRATED SKIN BIOLOGY

One platform, multi-pathway defense

The integrated biology map — two molecules, complementary territories, shared outcomes.

Ursolic acid

Melanophagy　·　barrier lipids　·　ECM homeostasis　·　inflammatory balance

NanoActive RosUrsol™

Carnosic acid

Nrf2 defense　·　UV–MMP protection　·　inflammatory signaling　·　TRPA1 biology

SHARED OUTCOME TERRITORIES

Skin resilience · even skin tone · photo-stress defense · healthy aging · skin recovery

07 · DELIVERY ENGINEERING

Powerful actives, inconvenient physics

Ursolic acid and carnosic acid are both strongly lipophilic — excellent chemistry, inconvenient formulation behavior.

7.3XlogP — ursolic acid · strongly lipophilic triterpene

4.9XlogP — carnosic acid · lipophilic phenolic diterpene

The conventional challenges

High-value lipophilic phytochemicals↓ poor water compatibility↓ limited formulation versatility↓ difficult dispersion↓ crystallization / precipitation risk↓ hard to use in clear or water-rich systems

The formulation paradox: the very property that makes these molecules powerful — lipid affinity — keeps them out of the water-rich systems that dominate modern skin care and food innovation.

07 · DELIVERY ENGINEERING

Turning lipophilic botanical actives into a water-compatible platform

The NanoActive™ answer: change how the active behaves in a formula through delivery engineering.

Concept schematic — a lipophilic active carried within a phospholipid bilayer vesicle.

Advanced delivery engineering　→　water-compatible dispersion platform　→　expanded formulation possibilities

· The active resides in a lipid-compatible vesicular environment

· Disperses uniformly in water-rich and multiphase systems

· Protects oxidation- and degradation-prone molecules

· Compatible with serums, lotions, emulsions and scalp formats

07 · DELIVERY ENGINEERING

PURISOME® FlexVes™ liposome technology

PuriPharm’s proprietary advanced nano-liposome platform — the technical core of every NanoActive™ product.

Phospholipid bilayer vesicle encapsulating lipophilic actives (schematic).

Built on more than a decade of nano-delivery R&D and industrialization experience, PURISOME® encapsulates actives in skin-affine phospholipid bilayer vesicles — delivering four core values.

1 · Protection　shields oxidation- and degradation-prone actives; supports shelf-life stability.

2 · Delivery　enhances stratum-corneum penetration and bioavailability.

3 · Sustained release　controlled, sustained release that reduces irritation potential.

4 · Formulation compatibility　improves formulation versatility and sensory performance.

07 · DELIVERY ENGINEERING

Designed for the skin interface

Nano-scale carriers interact with skin differently — particle size, surface film and lipid affinity all play a role.

Skin cross-sections — smaller carrier systems distribute deeper into skin (concept schematic, carrier literature).

Reducing particle size increases effective nanocarrier concentration and surface contact (concept schematic).

· Lipid affinity — phospholipid vesicles are structurally compatible with the skin’s own lipid architecture

· Flexible vesicles — FlexVes™ vesicles are designed to interact with the stratum-corneum interface

· Surface film & reservoir — nanocarriers can deposit on the surface to form reservoirs, supporting sustained availability

· Protection in transit — encapsulation shields oxidation-prone carnosic acid until application

Conceptual delivery-system schematics (evidence level 4 — carrier literature).

08 · COSMETIC APPLICATIONS

Scalp and follicle care

The follicular unit offers topical carrier systems a unique pathway — and a reservoir.

Nanoparticle deposition along the follicular pathway

The follicular unit as a delivery reservoir

Concept schematics — PuriPharm technical library.

The scalp stress environment

· Scalp oxidative stress and UV exposure

· Sebum-lipid oxidation at follicular openings

· Inflammatory stress in the follicular microenvironment

· Delivering lipophilic phytochemicals to where they are truly needed

NanoActive RosUrsol™ — a dual-active antioxidant and resilience platform for premium scalp care.

Scalp-vitality positioning; no hair-growth or hair-loss treatment claims.

08 · COSMETIC APPLICATIONS

Cosmetic application territories

One active platform, four formulation territories — all compatible with modern water-rich formats.

Skin tone & clarity

· tone-evening serums　· post-blemish mark care　· brightening serums　· dull-skin care

Photoaging & anti-aging

· antioxidant serums　· daily environmental-defense serums　· anti-photoaging creams　· overnight repair serums　· mature-skin care

Barrier & resilience

· barrier-support serums　· stressed-skin care　· lipid-repair creams　· sensitive-skin formulas

Scalp care

· scalp antioxidant serums　· scalp anti-aging serums　· follicular-environment care　· oil-control / oxidative-stress scalp formats

Application territories are based on the published ursolic-acid / carnosic-acid evidence base and PURISOME® delivery logic.

09 · FOOD SCIENCE

From skin lipids to food lipids

One botanical system, two protective environments.

09 · FOOD SCIENCE

Lipid oxidation: the cascade that spoils food

Understanding the free-radical chain is the basis of every antioxidant strategy.

1 · InitiationLH → L•

Heat, light or trace metals abstract hydrogen from unsaturated lipids.

2 · PropagationL• + O₂ → LOO•　·　LOO• + LH → LOOH + L•

A self-propagating free-radical chain.

3 · DecompositionLOOH → aldehydes · ketones

Volatile oxidation products form.

Consequences

Rancidity · off-odors · aroma deterioration · color instability · loss of polyunsaturated fatty acids · nutritional degradation

Rosemary diterpenes are lipid-phase defense molecules — they act where the cascade begins: inside the lipid matrix.

09 · FOOD SCIENCE

Protection where oxidation begins — the lipid phase

Carnosic acid is the first-line quencher; its oxidized derivatives extend the defense network.

Mechanistic basis

· Carnosic acid scavenges singlet oxygen and free radicals, and is oxidized into derivatives including carnosol

· Carnosol acts directly in the lipid phase, inhibiting peroxidation and stabilizing membrane structures

· This relay broadens the action spectrum — a cascade antioxidant system documented in planta and in lipid models

Relevance to food systems

· Free-radical quenching chemistry in the lipid phase

· Protects unsaturated fatty acids and oxidation-sensitive lipid systems

· Conversion into antioxidant-relevant derivatives extends protection over time

· Rosemary antioxidant diterpenes are compositional markers of food-grade rosemary extract

Loussouarn M et al. Plant Physiology. 2017. PMID 28916593. Evidence level 2/3 — primary rosemary-diterpene research. Mechanism diagram redrawn.

09 · FOOD SCIENCE

The food application space

At the heart of the food story is oxidative stability — flavor, color, nutritional quality and shelf-life support.

Edible oils & fats

· PUFA-rich oils　· specialty oils　· blended oils　· functional lipids

Meat & savory products

· meat products　· processed meats　· emulsified meat systems　· fat-containing savory foods

Bakery & fats

· bakery fats　· fillings　· nut-based systems　· fat-containing snacks

Nutritional products

· lipid-based nutritional products　· functional food formulations　· oxidation-sensitive nutritional systems

Regulatory context — rosemary extract

Rosemary extract has an established regulatory heritage as a food antioxidant — E392 (extracts of rosemary) in the EU, with carnosic acid and carnosol as its key compositional markers. That heritage applies to the rosemary-extract category; the specific regulatory status of NanoActive RosUrsol™ — botanical source, process, carrier system, nano character, target food categories and labeling — must be verified jurisdiction by jurisdiction. No automatic equivalence to E392 is claimed.

09 · FOOD SCIENCE

Water-compatible formats open new matrix space

An R&D platform opportunity — to be validated matrix by matrix, jurisdiction by jurisdiction.

The conventional limitation

Lipophilic rosemary antioxidants excel in lipid phases — but are difficult to introduce uniformly into water-rich or multiphase systems.

The ROSURSOL™ opportunity space

· Emulsions and nutritional emulsions

· Sauces and aqueous premixes

· Multiphase food matrices

· Beverages — where technology and regulation permit

10 · SUMMARY

Why NanoActive RosUrsol™

Five essentials — and one claims architecture spanning cosmetics and food.

01　Standardized rosemary phytochemistry — not a variable generic botanical extract

02　Ursolic acid + carnosic acid — two defined, high-value actives

03　Complementary biological defense — multi-pathway coverage without synergy inflation

04　A water-compatible delivery platform — PURISOME® FlexVes™ liposome technology

05　Cosmetic + food innovation potential — one chemistry, two industries

THE CLAIMS ARCHITECTURE — DUAL BOTANICAL ACTIVES, MULTI-SYSTEM PROTECTION

Cosmetic science　antioxidant defense · photo-stress protection · skin resilience · even skin tone · ECM homeostasis · skin regenerative biology · scalp defense

Food science　lipid protection · oxidative stability · quality preservation · flavor protection · color stability · PUFA protection · shelf-life support

NanoActive RosUrsol™ rosemary nano-liposomes · PURISOME® FlexVes™ liposome technologyPuriPharm Co., Ltd. · www.puriactives.com

10 · SUMMARY · REFERENCES

References

1 · Park HJ et al. Ursolic acid inhibits pigmentation by increasing melanosomal autophagy in B16F1 cells. Biochem Biophys Res Commun. 2020;531(2):209–214. DOI 10.1016/j.bbrc.2020.07.125 · PMID 32792197

2 · Maisto M et al. Apple oil as a source of ursolic acid for the treatment of hyperpigmentary disorders with molecular and clinical evaluation. Sci Rep. 2025. PMID 41387498

3 · Ahn SK et al. Simultaneous effect of ursolic acid and oleanolic acid on epidermal permeability barrier function and epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR-α. J Dermatol. 2007. PMID 17727365

4 · Both DM, Goodtzova K, Yarosh DB, Brown DA. Liposome-encapsulated ursolic acid increases ceramides and collagen in human skin cells. Horm Res. 2000;54(5–6):318–321. DOI 10.1159/000053280

5 · Loussouarn M et al. Carnosic acid and carnosol, two major antioxidants of rosemary, act through different mechanisms. Plant Physiology. 2017. PMID 28916593

6 · Park M et al. Carnosic acid, a phenolic diterpene from rosemary, prevents UV-induced expression of matrix metalloproteinases in human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Exp Dermatol. 2013;22(5):336–341. DOI 10.1111/exd.12138 · PMID 23614740

7 · Oh J et al. Syk/Src pathway-targeted inhibition of skin inflammatory responses by carnosic acid. Mediators Inflamm. 2012;2012:781375. DOI 10.1155/2012/781375 · PMID 22577255

8 · Rapp E et al. Carnosic acid in topical rosemary extract enhances skin repair via TRPA1 activation. JCI Insight. 2025:e196267. DOI 10.1172/jci.insight.196267 · PMID 41129748

9 · Satoh T et al. Carnosic acid activates the Keap1/Nrf2 pathway via S-alkylation of targeted cysteines on Keap1. J Neurochem. 2008.

10 · Commission Regulation (EU) No 231/2012 — specifications for food additives; E392 extracts of rosemary.

Image credits — vesicle schematics, skin cross-sections and follicular schematics, molecular structures — PuriPharm technical library (company archive); structure data from PubChem.

01 · THE STARTING POINT

The niacinamide paradox

Powerful biology — yet inseparable from the water phase.

Niacinamide — the amide form of vitamin B3 — is one of the best-documented multifunctional cosmetic actives, driving epidermal energy metabolism as a precursor of the NAD+/NADP+ coenzymes. Its physicochemical nature, however, makes it extremely hydrophilic:

· Readily soluble in water, almost insoluble in non-polar oils (logP≈−0.4)

· No molecular affinity for lipid phases — whenever water is present, it partitions into the water phase

· Once deprived of an aqueous environment, it re-crystallizes

· Traditional formulas must therefore carry a water phase or solubilizers

Physicochemical data: PubChem CID 936 (Niacinamide).

Formats that conventional niacinamide struggles to enter

Facial oil serums & oil essences　·　Anhydrous concentrates & balms　·　Lipid-rich barrier-repair formulas　·　Oil-continuous emulsions　·　Functional cleansing oils　·　Premium scalp & hair oils

The limitation is not biological — it is a delivery-engineering problem.

02 · MARKET CONTEXT

The rise of active oil-based beauty

Oil-based skincare is moving beyond simple emollience and occlusion. Barrier science, anhydrous formats and the “skinification” of scalp care are redefining what lipid-based products are expected to deliver.

01Barrier-first skincare — lipid replenishment becomes a core claim

02The facial-oil renaissance — from finishing step to efficacy step

03Scalp & hair “skinification” — facial-grade actives move to the scalp

04Anhydrous formulation — concentrated, minimalist architectures

05Premium sensorial textures — lipid richness as a signifier of efficacy

THE EMERGING PRODUCT ARCHITECTURE

Lipid base　＋　functional actives　＋　advanced delivery technology

A new generation of oil-based skin, scalp and hair care.

The long-missing link — a water-soluble active that can work in the oil phase.

PURIPHARM · PRODUCT LAUNCH

A water-soluble active — new possibilities in the oil phase.

NanoActive OleoNia™

An oil-compatible niacinamide delivery system: through a lipid-associated form, it re-engineers how a classic water-soluble active exists — allowing facial oil serums, anhydrous concentrates, balms and oil-rich scalp care to carry niacinamide biology for the first time.

Nano-lipid vesicle structure — the delivery core of NanoActive OleoNia™.

INCI name　Niacinamide

Technology platform　PURISOME® FlexVes™ liposome technology

Product line　NanoActive™

03 · THE TECHNOLOGY

From water-soluble to oil-compatible

Constraints of the conventional route

· Hydrophilic molecules dissolve only where a water phase exists

· In anhydrous oils they persist as undissolved crystalline solid

· Phase separation and uneven distribution follow

· No inherent affinity for the lipid environment of skin or formula

The OLEONIA™ approach

· Skin-affine phospholipids build an amphiphilic vesicle structure

· The hydrophilic active is compartmentalized inside the vesicle core

· A lipid-compatible outer interface allows dispersion in the oil phase

· Uniform incorporation in oil-continuous systems

Schematic: the hydrophilic active resides inside a lipid-assembled carrier, turning a water-dependent molecule into an oil-dispersible system.

03 · THE TECHNOLOGY

Vesicle architecture — PURISOME® FlexVes™ technology

Phospholipid bilayer vesicle (aqueous core) · schematic. Image: PuriPharm technical library.

1. Amphiphilic bilayer membrane.Skin-affine phospholipids self-assemble into a closed bilayer, following the same organizing principle as epidermal barrier lipids.

2. Active compartmentalization.Hydrophilic niacinamide is located in the vesicle core — physically separated from the surrounding oil-continuous phase.

3. Lipid-compatible outer interface.The outer membrane presents a non-polar surface, letting the carrier disperse uniformly in oils and lipid-rich bases.

4. Flexible-vesicle engineering.The FlexVes™ membrane design optimizes vesicle deformability and stratum-corneum affinity — properties the literature links to enhanced skin deposition.

FOUR PLATFORM FUNCTIONS

Active protection　→　enhanced skin deposition　→　sustained availability　→　formula & sensory compatibility

Honeywell-Nguyen PL, Bouwstra JA. Drug Discov Today Technol. 2005;2(1):67–74. · Bouwstra JA, Honeywell-Nguyen PL. Adv Drug Deliv Rev. 2002;54(Suppl 1):S41–S55.

03 · THE TECHNOLOGY

Core technical benefits — three pillars

01Expanded formulation freedom

· Facial oil serums, oil essences and lipid concentrates

· Anhydrous balms and active concentrates

· Oil-continuous and lipid-rich emulsions

· Premium oil-based scalp and hair formats

02Enhanced delivery potential

· Vesicle lipids show affinity for stratum-corneum lipid domains

· Supports active deposition and local retention

· The follicular pathway offers a sustained-release reservoir

03Improved active stability

· Compartmentalization isolates the active from the continuous phase

· Less direct contact with reactive co-ingredients

· Uniform distribution — no crystallization in low-water systems

Delivery and stability advantages are based on published vesicle science (platform-level evidence). This presentation claims no product-specific performance data; NanoActive OleoNia™ experimental data are provided in the product’s technical documentation.

03 · THE TECHNOLOGY

Expanded formulation freedom

Formats once impractical for water-soluble niacinamide become routine formulation choices.

Format	Conventional niacinamide	NanoActive OleoNia™
Facial oil serums & oil essences	Insoluble; re-crystallizes in the oil phase	Oil-dispersible active system, uniformly incorporated
Anhydrous concentrates & balms	No water phase to dissolve the active	Stably compartmentalized in the lipid base
Oil-continuous & lipid-rich emulsions	Confined to a minimal inner water phase	Positioned within the formula’s lipid domains
Functional cleansing oils	Incompatible with anhydrous rinse-off bases	Gives cleansing oils an efficacy positioning
Scalp & hair oils	Aqueous actives incompatible with oil carriers	Oil-based delivery to the scalp and follicular environment

Formulation statements describe the platform’s delivery principle; dosage and processing guidance are given in the product’s technical documentation.

04 · ACTIVE BIOLOGY

Niacinamide biology — one molecule, five pathways

Niacinamide — precursor of the NAD+/NADP+ coenzymes — the “metabolic currency” driving epidermal energy production, repair and differentiation.

Skin barrier — promotes ceramide and stratum-corneum lipid biosynthesis; reduces transepidermal water loss.

Tanno et al. Br J Dermatol. 2000 · Soma et al. Int J Dermatol. 2005

Skin tone & pigmentation — acts downstream of tyrosinase, inhibiting melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes.

Hakozaki et al. Br J Dermatol. 2002

Skin aging — supports cellular energy metabolism; improves elasticity, fine lines and sallowness in clinical testing.

Bissett et al. Dermatol Surg. 2005

Sebum & pores — reduces facial sebum production; improves oily skin and pore appearance.

Draelos et al. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2006

Inflammation — non-antibiotic anti-inflammatory activity; soothes visible redness and erythema.

Shalita et al. Int J Dermatol. 1995 · Bissett et al. 2004

Mechanistic reviews: Wohlrab J, Kreft D. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(6):311–315. · Boo YC. Antioxidants. 2021;10(8):1315.

04 · ACTIVE BIOLOGY

Skin barrier — rebuilding the lipid “mortar”

As an NAD+/NADP+ precursor, niacinamide powers keratinocyte energy metabolism and epidermal differentiation — the engine of barrier-lipid synthesis.

Ceramide biosynthesis.Niacinamide promotes de novo synthesis of ceramides and other stratum-corneum lipids in human keratinocytes, improving epidermal permeability-barrier function.

Less water loss.Topical 2% niacinamide reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in atopic dry skin, outperforming a white-petrolatum control.

Delivery synergy.The lipid carrier echoes the barrier’s own chemistry — ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol arranged in lamellae.

Tanno O et al. Br J Dermatol. 2000;143(3):524–531. · Soma Y et al. Int J Dermatol. 2005;44(3):197–202. · Brick-and-mortar schematic: PuriPharm.

An active that builds barrier lipids — delivered in a carrier built from barrier-like lipids.

04 · ACTIVE BIOLOGY

Brightening — blocking melanosome transfer

A downstream mechanism.Niacinamide does not inhibit tyrosinase; it acts on pigment distribution — the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes. In melanocyte–keratinocyte co-culture models, melanosome transfer was inhibited by 35–68%.

Reversible and cell-safe.The inhibition is reversible and non-cytotoxic — physiological tone modulation, not melanocyte toxicity.

Clinically visible.After 4 weeks of use, hyperpigmentation was significantly reduced and skin brightness improved versus vehicle control.

Hakozaki T et al. Br J Dermatol. 2002;147(1):20–31. · Greatens A et al. Exp Dermatol. 2005;14(7):498–508.

Split-face randomized controlled trial in melasma (n = 27, 8 weeks)

Navarrete-Solís J et al. Dermatol Res Pract. 2011;2011:379173. Depigmenting efficacy comparable to hydroquinone, with fewer adverse effects.

Tone correction that respects melanocyte biology.

04 · ACTIVE BIOLOGY

Anti-aging — energy, elasticity, even tone

The key aging study

Design.Double-blind, left–right randomized split-face trial; 50 women with clinical signs of photoaging; 5% niacinamide versus vehicle, twice daily for 12 weeks; imaging and instrumental measurements every 4 weeks.

Mechanistic basis.NAD+/NADP+ coenzymes sustain cellular energy and repair; antioxidant defense counters the protein glycation linked to sallow tone; epidermal renewal is supported for refined texture.

Endpoints significantly improved

Fine lines & wrinkles　·　hyperpigmented spots　·　red blotchiness　·　skin sallowness　·　elasticity (cutometry)

All endpoints significant versus vehicle control.

Bissett DL et al. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(Suppl 1):860–865. · Bissett DL et al. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2004;26(5):231–238.

One gentle active improving five signs of facial aging.

04 · ACTIVE BIOLOGY

Sebum, pores and acne-prone skin

Sebum regulation.2% niacinamide significantly lowered sebum excretion rate after 2–4 weeks (Japanese cohort) and reduced skin-surface sebum after 6 weeks (Caucasian cohort).

Pore appearance.Less sebum output means less follicular distension — the mechanical driver of enlarged pores.

Acne-prone skin.4% niacinamide gel showed anti-inflammatory efficacy comparable to 1% clindamycin gel in moderate inflammatory acne — without antibiotic-resistance concerns.

Draelos ZD et al. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2006;8(2):96–101. · Shalita AR et al. Int J Dermatol. 1995;34(6):434–437.

Double-blind randomized controlled trial in inflammatory acne (n = 76, 8 weeks)

Shalita AR et al. Int J Dermatol. 1995;34(6):434–437. No statistically significant difference between groups — equivalent efficacy.

Oil control and soothing — without the antibiotic route.

04 · ACTIVE BIOLOGY

Soothing and skin resilience

Barrier improvement and anti-inflammatory activity converge here — niacinamide matters as much for reactive, redness-prone skin as for aging or oily skin.

Red blotchiness — after 12 weeks of topical 5% niacinamide, facial red blotchiness was significantly reduced.

Bissett et al. Dermatol Surg. 2005

Rosacea-prone skin — a niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improved barrier function and clinical signs in these subjects.

Draelos et al. Cutis. 2005;76(2):135–141

Inflammatory-cell infiltrate — topical 4% niacinamide reduced mast-cell infiltrate and improved solar elastosis in melasma-skin histology.

Navarrete-Solís et al. Dermatol Res Pract. 2011

Stress signaling — mitigates environment-induced, senescence-associated inflammatory signaling in epidermal keratinocytes.

Bierman et al. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2020;42(5):501–511

Oxidative defense — supports endogenous antioxidant capacity via NADPH-linked redox pathways.

Boo YC. Antioxidants. 2021;10(8):1315

05 · CLINICAL EVIDENCE

Human clinical evidence for niacinamide

Study	Design	Dose & duration	Key results
Bissett 2005	Split-face RCT, vehicle-controlled (n = 50)	5%, 12 weeks	Fine lines, elasticity, spots, erythema and sallowness all improved
Bissett 2004	RCT, vehicle-controlled	5%, 12 weeks	Yellowing, wrinkles, red blotchiness and spots reduced
Hakozaki 2002	Vehicle-controlled clinical + co-culture study	5%, 4–8 weeks	Pigmentation reduced; skin brightness increased
Navarrete-Solís 2011	Split-face RCT in melasma (n = 27)	4% vs 4% hydroquinone, 8 weeks	Comparable depigmentation; fewer adverse effects (18% vs 29%)
Draelos 2006	Two controlled cohorts (Japanese / Caucasian)	2%, 4–6 weeks	Sebum excretion rate / surface sebum levels reduced
Shalita 1995	Double-blind RCT in inflammatory acne (n = 76)	4% gel vs 1% clindamycin, 8 weeks	Comparable improvement; lesion count −60% vs −43%
Soma 2005	Controlled study, atopic dry skin	2%, 4–8 weeks	TEWL reduced; barrier function improved

Full citations on the references page. RCT = randomized controlled trial; TEWL = transepidermal water loss.

06 · DELIVERY SCIENCE

Why lipid delivery matters

Skin cross-sections under confocal laser scanning microscopy: smaller lipid carriers (a → c) show progressively deeper skin distribution. Image: PuriPharm technical library.

A note on the evidence

This page presents platform-level vesicle literature — the delivery rationale behind the engineering of NanoActive OleoNia™, not product-specific measurements.

Vesicle–skin interaction — phospholipid vesicles adsorb onto and intermix with stratum-corneum lipid domains, promoting intimate carrier–skin contact.

Bouwstra JA, Honeywell-Nguyen PL. Adv Drug Deliv Rev. 2002;54(Suppl 1):S41–S55

Size determines depth — liposome particle size directly influences dermal delivery depth; smaller vesicles deposit their payload into deeper skin layers.

Verma DD et al. Int J Pharm. 2003;258(1–2):141–151

The follicular reservoir — particulate carriers preferentially accumulate in hair follicles, persisting far longer than on the skin surface and extending local availability.

Lademann J et al. Eur J Pharm Biopharm. 2007;66(2):159–164

Delivery engineering turns a soluble molecule into a depositable active.

06 · DELIVERY SCIENCE

Stability and formulation advantages

The fragility of free niacinamide

· Amide hydrolysis: converts to nicotinic acid under acidic pH and heat — causing transient flushing and stinging

· Direct, unprotected contact with reactive co-ingredients in the water phase

· Crystallization and local concentration gradients in low-water systems

The engineered response

· A compartmentalized core isolates the active from the continuous phase

· The lipid microenvironment buffers interfacial pH exposure at the molecular scale

· Uniform dispersion eliminates crystallization pathways

· A structural barrier against oxidation and interfacial stress during storage

The occlusive effect.Fine lipid carriers form a closely adherent film on the skin surface, reducing evaporative water loss and supporting stratum-corneum hydration — a further formulation-level delivery advantage. Image: PuriPharm technical library.

Gehring W. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2004;3(2):88–93. · Mechanistic review: Boo YC. Antioxidants. 2021;10(8):1315.

07 · FORMULATION CONCEPT

From “passive oils” to “active lipid systems”

08 · SCALP & HAIR

Scalp and hair — niacinamide beyond the face

Scalp is skin.Barrier-lipid synthesis, sebum dynamics and oxidative stress follow the same biology as facial skin — exactly what niacinamide targets.

Follicular targeting.Particulate carriers preferentially deposit in hair follicles and persist as long-lived reservoirs — a natural entry route for oil-based scalp products.

Follicle-cell evidence.In cultured human dermal papilla cells, niacinamide lowered oxidative-stress markers and down-regulated DKK-1, a signal associated with follicle regression (in vitro).

Honest evidence positioning.Facial benefits are clinically established; scalp-specific benefits are mechanistic and still emerging — a credible basis for “barrier-first” scalp care, not a hair-growth claim.

Size-dependent follicular deposition of particulate carriers

The follicular pathway to the perifollicular environment

Images — PuriPharm technical library.

Suitable formats

Scalp serum oils · pre-wash oil treatments · leave-on scalp essences · hair oils · conditioning concentrates · overnight scalp care

Lademann J et al. Eur J Pharm Biopharm. 2007;66(2):159–164. · Choi YH et al. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2021;14:1519–1528.

09 · APPLICATION CONCEPTS

Formulation opportunities

Skin care

· Facial oil serums — the hero format: pure oil bases carrying niacinamide biology

· Oil serums / bi-phase serums — lipid essences with an efficacy positioning

· Anhydrous active concentrates — minimalist water-free architectures

· Nourishing balms & overnight lipid treatments — intensified barrier care

· Barrier-repair & rich anti-aging creams — lipid-rich emulsion systems

· Brightening oil serums — tone correction in premium sensory bases

· Eye-area lipid serums · functional cleansing oils — delicate-zone and rinse-off concepts

Scalp & hair

· Scalp serum oils — follicle-targeted, barrier-first scalp care

· Pre-wash oil treatments — a barrier primer before shampooing

· Leave-on scalp essences — sustained follicular contact

· Hair oils — shine products with a scalp-care positioning

· Anti-aging scalp concentrates — an oxidative-stress defense story

· Overnight scalp treatments — long-contact reservoir strategy

Concept-level positioning; dosage, processing and compatibility guidance are given in the product’s technical documentation.

10 · DIFFERENTIATION

Conventional niacinamide vs NanoActive OleoNia™

Dimension	Conventional niacinamide	NanoActive OleoNia™
Form in formula	Dissolved only in the water phase	Lipid-associated vesicular dispersion
Anhydrous suitability	Unsuitable — re-crystallizes without water	Designed for anhydrous systems
Oil compatibility	Incompatible without solubilizers or emulsification	Incorporates uniformly into the oil phase
Deposition behavior	Surface delivery dependent on hydration	Vesicle-supported deposition; follicular reservoir pathway
Stability strategy	Relies on bulk-solution pH and temperature control	Compartmental isolation shields the active from the base
Positioning	Commodity water-phase active	Premium delivery-system ingredient

Deposition and stability characteristics reflect platform-level vesicle-delivery literature, not product-specific comparative testing.

PURIPHARM · KEY TAKEAWAYS

A new formulation dimension for niacinamide

The technology spans

Niacinamide biology　+　lipid-based formulation　+　advanced delivery science

And thereby delivers

· Broader formulation freedom — oil serums, anhydrous concentrates, balms, oil-rich scalp care

· Greater delivery potential — vesicle–skin affinity, deposition, follicular reservoir

· Better formulation stability — compartmentalized, uniform, crystallization-free

· A new generation of oil-based skin and scalp care — from passive oils to active lipid systems

NanoActive OleoNia™ · PURISOME® FlexVes™ liposome technologyPuriPharm Co. Ltd. · www.puriactives.com

11 · REFERENCES

References

1. Tanno O, Ota Y, Kitamura N, Katsube T, Inoue S. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. Br J Dermatol. 2000;143(3):524–531.

2. Hakozaki T, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol. 2002;147(1):20–31.

3. Greatens A, et al. Effective inhibition of melanosome transfer to keratinocytes by lectins and niacinamide is reversible. Exp Dermatol. 2005;14(7):498–508.

4. Bissett DL, Miyamoto K, Sun P, Li J, Berge CA. Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2004;26(5):231–238.

5. Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Berge CA. Niacinamide: a B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(Suppl 1):860–865.

6. Draelos ZD, Matsubara A, Smiles K. The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2006;8(2):96–101.

7. Shalita AR, Smith JG, Parish LC, Sofman MS, Chalker DK. Topical nicotinamide compared with clindamycin gel in the treatment of inflammatory acne vulgaris. Int J Dermatol. 1995;34(6):434–437.

8. Navarrete-Solís J, et al. A double-blind, randomized clinical trial of niacinamide 4% versus hydroquinone 4% in the treatment of melasma. Dermatol Res Pract. 2011;2011:379173.

9. Soma Y, et al. Moisturizing effects of topical nicotinamide on atopic dry skin. Int J Dermatol. 2005;44(3):197–202.

10. Draelos ZD, Ertel K, Berge C. Niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improves skin barrier and benefits subjects with rosacea. Cutis. 2005;76(2):135–141.

11. Gehring W. Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2004;3(2):88–93.

12. Wohlrab J, Kreft D. Niacinamide — mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(6):311–315.

13. Boo YC. Mechanistic basis and clinical evidence for the applications of nicotinamide (niacinamide) to control skin aging and pigmentation. Antioxidants. 2021;10(8):1315.

14. Bierman JC, et al. Niacinamide mitigates SASP-related inflammation induced by environmental stressors in human epidermal keratinocytes and skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2020;42(5):501–511.

15. Honeywell-Nguyen PL, Bouwstra JA. Vesicles as a tool for transdermal and dermal delivery. Drug Discov Today Technol. 2005;2(1):67–74.

16. Bouwstra JA, Honeywell-Nguyen PL. Skin structure and mode of action of vesicles. Adv Drug Deliv Rev. 2002;54(Suppl 1):S41–S55.

17. Verma DD, Verma S, Blume G, Fahr A. Particle size of liposomes influences dermal delivery of substances into skin. Int J Pharm. 2003;258(1–2):141–151.

18. Lademann J, et al. Nanoparticles — an efficient carrier for drug delivery into the hair follicles. Eur J Pharm Biopharm. 2007;66(2):159–164.

19. Vogt A, et al. 40 nm, but not 750 or 1,500 nm, nanoparticles enter epidermal CD1a+ cells after transcutaneous application on human skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2006;126(6):1316–1322.

20. Choi YH, Shin JY, Kim J, Kang NG, Lee S. Niacinamide down-regulates the expression of DKK-1 and protects cells from oxidative stress in cultured human dermal papilla cells. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2021;14:1519–1528.

21. Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of niacinamide and niacin. Int J Toxicol. 2005;24(Suppl 5):1–31.

Image credits — vesicle schematic, confocal micrographs, follicular-targeting schematics — PuriPharm technical library (company archive).